rickmoo

Thanks everyone for your suggestions....

Thanks, i definately wouldn't use a grinder. i would dress it by hand with a file or various grits of paper then polish...the surface i use is and inch or so thick piece of granite, with a sort of hard piece of rubber on it. might be the rubber is the problem. i'll try a piece of wood instead. one would think that with what these tools cost they would be set up right. the arch punches are not new, but the bag punch is..... also a few of the arch punches have a slight flat spot as if had been if dropped. i was trying to think of something tapered i could drive in there it round them out.... any suggestions?

I've been wanting some good arch punches and won a set on ebay. i got a dozen Osborne punches in good shape. i use a 2 lb. plastic coated mallet, but they don't punch veg tan easily. also i paid a lot of $ for a 1 1/4 " Osborne bag punch and i had to dress the inside with a diamond file. the outside is curved inward too much. i bought this to make life easier , more precise and faster, but i'm a little disappointed after paying so much for it. anyone have or know a really good way to dress up these punches to get them to cut properly...

I make patterns from poster board. i use a long metal and short rules for straight lines. i have several templates with ovals and circles for curved parts of patterns... if you have a table saw or band saw, transfer the patterns to either cast acrylic (plexiglass) or 1/4" birch or luann plywood. this will give you permanent patterns and you can hold them in place to cut around... draw or scribe around the template 1st in case it moves while cutting so you can reposition it. also a good investment is a Ridgid table sander that has the belt and oscillating cylindrical attachments. that way you can shape inside curves. i also use them to thin or skive thick leather if needed.

Either www.hidehouse.com they have a great catalog.... or www.leatherhidestore.com

anyone know where to get patterns for motorcycle chaps?

also, the thickness of leather depends on the gun generally. really small guns don't need thick leather. the leather determines to a point what size thread you need. i start at #207 minimum uless i make a holster for say a NAA mini revolver, then # 138 is enough . i use a cobra 4 machine and i have thread from #138 to # 346.

hestes, the threadexchange.com in weaverville n.c. has lots of nylon and poly thread to choose from. all sizes. of course # 207 and smaller there are more colors to choose from, but they have had a good selection in larger sizes too. their site is great and the prices are good also.

Hi there, where do you live in S.C. i live in Charleston and have been doing leather work for a few years.

I thought about that too. i believe you can mold the veg tan with the pigskin a certain amount, but not to the effect of the veg tan by itself. sometimes i use wood shaped like i need for an item where more pressure or hand molding can be used. wetting the veg tan should not penetrate the leather once it's cemented together.

I have a garfish skin in the freezer... been in there for months. would like to know how to tan the thing. was wondrin' if reptan would work.

i'm thinking that you could bind the edge with contact cement, then use several small bulldog or spring loaded clips to help hold it while molding. when i make pen sleeves , i use fabritac glue because it sticks to leather and vinyl well, sets quickly and easy to apply without being messy. i use contact cement for larger projects. buying veg tan type already dyed may not be a bad way to go. hope this helps you.

THREAD WITH A LEFT HAND TWIST IS USED FOR SEWING MACHINES GENERALLY IN THE U.S.

You could get bonded nylon and polyester thread from the www.threadexchange.com Weaverville , N.C. lots of thread at good prices.........

Try boonetrading.com they are in seattle washington