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Lwleather

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Posts posted by Lwleather

  1. Posted · Report reply

    Ok, I had this for sale a while back and had it "sold". Anyway it's still for sale (again) . It's 45K25 Singer, s/n EG210092. It's a bottom feed only. I put a new shuttle in it and it's sewing good. It comes with the thread stand, extra bobbins, extra needles, bobbins, the table and motor. I also have a parts and operators manuals for it. It has 1/2" presser foot lift. It sews lighter leather really well, like chaps, vests and saddle bags. If you're sewing heavy stuff, you probably don't want this machine. I have done headstalls with it, but that's about all it wants to handle. It would make a good machine for someone getting started.

    This thing weighs quite a bit. So you can pick it up, or I can ship it. Truck freight only.

    I'm asking $ 600.00. Will consider offers. E-mail me with any questions or call 402-389-2008.

    post-10930-097436000 1314224895_thumb.jp

    post-10930-038164800 1314224924_thumb.jp

    post-10930-060185500 1314224952_thumb.jp

  3. Posted · Report reply

    I'll be honest I haven't used it yet, because it's not available anywhere around me and I haven't got around to ordering some. I believe that your dyeing and at least one coat of your favorite sealer should be on and dry before you use the antique paste. I could be mistaken.

    Kevin

    You might be right. I did use tan cote the first few times I did the antique. Tan cote, then antique and then tan cote. I made myself a pair of spur straps doing that. Looked good to start with. We were moving cows and got soaked. The antique washed off.... ?? So I quit using the tan cote first thinking the antique didn't take. Maybe something other than tan cote would work better. I guess I'll look for some neat-lac like Leathercrafter suggested.

    Thanks guys!!

  4. Posted · Report reply

    I have some of the Fiebings Antique Finish that comes in the little jars. Is there a good way to use this stuff on a fairly big project? I like to antique some of my yokes on chaps and they are small enough I can get it wiped on and off fast enough it doesn't blotch too bad (most of the time) Anything bigger than that and it has dark and light spots that won't even up. Once the antique touches something, it's sealed and there's no fixing it. Would it help to have the leather damp??

    Here's a picture of what I'm talking about. Hopefully you can tell by this. Where the stamping stops and the smooth starts there's a dark spot.

    Thanks for any advice.

    post-10930-060765800 1314028728_thumb.jp

  5. Posted · Report reply

    My friend wants me to make a harness for her dog, very similar to this:

    http://www.hundegesc...olice-k9-UK.jpg

    I'm not sure what kind of leather to use. The harness leather available at my local Tandy Leather is about $350/side... A little more than I want to invest in this. Latigo leather seems like the next best choice, since my friend will be using it outside, all year round.

    Any suggestions as to what type and weight?

    Thanks in advance!

    Tinneal

    I don't think you need harness leather for that-- overkill in my opinion. A good latigo or even skirting leather would work fine. 7-8 oz. should be plenty heavy. 5 -6 would work if you double and stitch it.

  6. Posted · Report reply

    Hello All- I am brand new to this forum. A few years ago, I purchased a large bag of leather scraps at a yard sale. Later I found a leather sewing awl. Since then, I have been repairing horse tack, making western holsters and knife sheaths by hand. I recently bought a Singer 29K-51 machine that needs some work to again function. I am unclear on the differences between the 29-4, and the 29K variants. Will the parts and service manuals for the 29-4 give me good numbers and service info for my 29K? Will my machine sew three layers of 8 oz leather? What size needle and thread? What type thread? I know that my questions are elementary, but that is where I am right now. Also, my bag of leather scraps is about gone. What type of leather should I be using, and where should I get it without paying for the steaks and hamburger too? Thanks for your patience and willingness to help a rookie. Regards, Clark

    As for your machine I would recommend getting ahold of Singer directly. I had a 45k and they were very helpful getting the right manual for it. They also still have a few of the parts available for the old machines.

    I know my old singer liked the nylon thread with the right hand twist. Anything other than that gave me fits. If you look on Weaver's website (here's the link) this guide will tell you what thread size works with which needles.

    http://www.leathersupply.com/downloads/catalog/SewingMachines&Such.pdf

    I mainly make chaps, headstalls and tack. My main thread is a 207 if that helps any.

    I buy alot of my harness and skirting leather from Wickett and Craig (good stuff). They have an "overstocked" list, and some of those leathers are at a real good price. A lot of my chap leather and latigo comes from the Hide House in CA. They have a lot of "odd lot" leathers that you can get real reasonable.

    Hopefully this helps.

  9. Posted · Report reply

    My husband found this on Craig's list a couple days ago. http://northplatte.c...2494521107.html

    I just got back from there today (south of O'Neill, NE) . This outfit has basically 4 pallet boxes of leather. Not pallets, 4 foot tall pallet BOXES. This was a rejected shipment of leather because some of it got wet. I never did see anything that looked like it got wet. It supposed to be Italian. The tags say BCBGMAXAZRIA if that means anything to any of you. There is some with other tags also.....

    What they have from what I saw was:

    a lot of patent leather, alligator prints, some metallic, about any kind and color of garment leather you can imagine. The garment leathers are nice. Some of this is rolled up, some of it isn't. There is some deer and deertan. I didn't see any tooling leather or harness or anything like that.

    I raided the chap leather pretty good, but I like the heavier 4 oz and up. There was several sides of a really nice green chap around 4.5 oz..

    Anyway, for you garment people and bag builders this would be worth looking into. The prices are right if you act like you know what you want.. :)

    E-mail me with any questions. I don't check my pm's on here very often.

  11. Posted · Report reply

    Nice leg design. It is nice to see some creativity and different ideas. Have you ever thought about running your baskett stamp diagnal. Instead of horizontal. I have found with smaller, long project that if I stamp my basket stamp diagnaly that there is less of a chance you will see a missalinment problem in your basket stamp. I fill that when you try to tool something with streight lines and you make even the slightest mistake then who ever is looking at that project there eyes natraily draw to the uneveness in the streight lines. Does anyone have any of the same feelings on the basket stamp as me.

    I've done it both ways. It's just kind of whatever mood strikes at the time. If you're looking for the screw ups, you're going to see them no matter what direction they run is my thinking.

  15. Posted · Report reply

    Before you get into how you do it you should ask yourself several questions:

    1. What type of look am I after?

    Do I want it to look painted (in most cases the leather grain is gone and you get a smooth enamel like finish)?

    Do I want it to look like dyed leather with the grain showing and the surface being leather?

    Do I want a combination of these looks?

    2. What is the item going to be used for?

    For example, if the product is being bent and the pattern will also be bent and flexed, then any surface paint will eventually crack . A dye or stain which soaks into the fibers of the leather will flex with the leather.

    Will the item see a lot of rough wear and tear such as surface wear (a motorcycle seat)? If so then a dye or stain would be longer lasting than a paint.

    Does the leather need to breath? If yes, than a dye or stain should be used, if not then a paint can be used.

    3. What type of base do I want to use: oil, ether, water, acrylic ..? Not all of them can be mixed and matched even after application and drying.

    These are some of the question I have asked my self before I begin the coloring process.

    Remember leather is skin and will need to be cared for over time (cleaned and oiled) if it is to last.

    BillB

    Thanks BillB. That gives me more to think about. I never thought about the paint cracking, but it makes sense.

  16. Posted · Report reply

    Hi,

    can anyone of you please tell me how the buckle and the strap is fixed on the end of the headstall, when you use a buckle instead of an concho.?

    would be great to know...

    thanks

    Little 1983

    I think I know what you're after. I'll see if I can explain it. On the cheek piece, you will have your adjusting buckle on the top, then the bottom end will be your "tail" that will go through your mounting buckle. To mount your buckle you will take a short piece of leather with a slit in the middle of it and sew in on to the lower end of your cheek piece. You will lay the short piece flat on your cheek piece, with the buckle mounted in the middle and sew down both ends. Make sure you mount the buckle high enough so that your "tail" can come through the bit and back up to your buckle. I hope this makes sense. If not, PM me and I can draw it out for you.

  17. Posted · Report reply

    Ok. I have a new project I need some advice on. I have just started actually "tooling" leather--I've graduated from my basket stamp. :)

    Here's the deal, I am going to do a rose and a vine and I need to know the best thing to use to either dye or paint them. The rose is going to be yellow and the vine green. I've seen paints out there but have no idea how they hold up. Also I'm going to seal it when I'm done and wonder if the Tan-Kote is the way to go. It's going to be on a pair of leggings, so I want a finish that will hold up fairly well.

    Thanks in advance, you all are great about sharing your knowledge!!

  18. Posted · Report reply

    These little things are driving me nuts! Im using Line 24, Line 20, Segma, and Glove snaps for various projects. Right now I just have the set-all kit that comes with the little cheap anvils and setting tools. I'm using a good solid surface, but can't set a good snap to save my life.

    Is there an easier way to set snaps that doesn't cost a couple hundred dollars?

    CS Osborne makes a snap setter that I use. It's simple and pretty hard not to get them set. # 230-SET. I bought mine from The Hide House in San Dimas. It was around $13.00. Good luck.

  19. Posted · Report reply

    Ok, somewhere I heard you could mix a little dye in with some oil, like neatsfoot, to dye leather. What I have is a side of tooling leather that is VERY natural--almost flesh colored. Can a person add a few drops of dye to a small amount of oil and sponge it on to a small project?? It's too light colored for most of what I want to do with it. Thanks for any advice.

  20. Posted · Report reply

    I don't have a pattern, nor have I ever made one...but as an archer I can tell you what we like in quivers.......

    1. We like them quiet. Arrows shouldn't bang together and the quiver itself shouldn't "creak" or make noise when moved or bumped.

    2. We like them to be able to withstand tough, country scrub that can scratch them deeply.

    3. It should be a naturally dark color like walnut or mahogany.

    4. It should have plenty of room to keep feather-fletched arrows apart at the fletching / nock, so the feathers don't get ruined.

    5. We like a soft [neoprene?] and thick cushion in the bottom for arrow tips, that include broad heads, so they don't damage / dull each other.

    6. It should have a stiff, double loop belt hanger [as opposed to a single one like a handgun holster] that allows us to mount one on either side of a trouser belt loop....something like this

    |_____|...space...|_____|

    7. Having the ability to switch from belt-mounted [warm weather] to slung on our back [bitter cold weather] is a plus.

    As far as a motif to carve, that should be something that is personal to / for the user. If they hunt a particular animal [or a few kinds] carving it or them into it would be nice.

    Perhaps the attached pic might help?

    Thanks for all the good info!!!:You_Rock_Emoticon:

  21. Posted · Report reply

    HI Lisa;;

    Tandy has paterns and books ,,,,we have a forum devoted to archery and there are hundreds of photo's and post and you will find people to PM that will be able to answer your questions in detail....

    you may make me a nice back quiver for x'mas as pratice if you like ...6-7oz HO ....with fringe ...Ha Ha LOL....regards ...Doc...

    PM me, I might be interested in doing that. I love guinea pigs!! :thumbsup:

    The first thing you need to know is what sort of quiver does your friend favor.

    There are back quivers, hip quivers, pocket quivers, side quivers (that go on your back, or at your hip - but you get the arrows out from the side instead of pulling them out at the top, so they're 'side' quivers).

    Each of these fits distinctive shooting styles. Then, there are multiple variations within each category.

    You really need to know what he wants in a quiver before you get started searching for patterns, much less building one.

    10-4. I didn't really think of that part. I'll do some more recon... Thanks!

  23. Posted · Report reply

    Can anyone help please with a manual for a Singer 132K6? I have searched the net and have only been able to find a Parts list, but what I really need is an instruction and service manual.

    Call the folks directly at Singer, they've been a big help for me. If they have a copy they'll send it to you. 615-213-0880

  24. Posted · Report reply

    Hi all, due to my learning curve on making purses and other craft items from old worn out boots, I need more. I can't afford to spend much, but I know many of us have those old worn out boots in the bottom of the closet, ones we don't wear anymore, ones we bought but don't fit right that are bound for goodwill, etc. I would happily pay shipping to anyone wishing to part with their worn out boots. Lacers or "chunks" really don't work well for my projects, but i have routinely checked the thrift stores, and most are too expensive for my budget. I know there has to be a ton of you with old boots that have no destination other than the landfill :) PLEASE let me have them! Would be forever grateful, I am trying to locate 15 pairs by the middle of this next month!

    thank you all!

    Charlene Stovin

    PM me. I have a pair of tall top Tony's you can have. I'll have to look, there might be some more around here too.

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