Wizcrafts

I'm glad to hear that you have worked out your problems with Biothane. May I suggest that if you are going to be making a lot of Biothane tack, you consider investing in a Campbell Lockstitch machine?

Have you thought about spraying the throat plate with silicon, or using some drops of Tri~Flow?

I now Grok that the OP may have been looking for a hobbyist's sewing machine, with no plans for a full blown commercial machine. The two that come to mind are the Tippmann Boss and the Luberto Cub. Both are hand operated, mountable on the edge of a desk or table, or work bench. They can sew up to from about 1/8" up to 3/4 inch with #346 thread, using system 794 needles. They aren't cheap, but will suffice for small pre-production and one-off runs of holsters, belts, horse tack and such. They are also good for repairing these items. A determined hobbyist could pay for such a machine in a few months, then decide whether it is time to move up to a motorized machine, or stay put.

My thickest holster job in recent times was a full 7/8 inch along the stitch line. There were four 8 oz layers of filler inside the approximately 10 ounce front and back piece. I had to readjust the machine for minimum alternating foot lift, using the slotted plate and a #25 diamond point needle, with #277 thread. The presser bar had to be raised to clear the stack of leather and the inside foot position dinked with to get the leather to feed. This would have been much easier to accomplish on my last Union Lockstitch machine, which I already had modified to sew 7/8 inch. You can't beat a jump foot needle and awl machine for thick sewing. Here is a photo of the filler side before it was slicked and edge dyed.

The only thing automatic about this system is that raising the inside foot automatically also increases the lift of the presser foot. Older systems usually need to have a bolt loosened and a crank moved up or down to accomplish the same effect. The term Automatic is marketing jargon. A truly automatic walking foot mechanism would sense the difference in height (up or down) and change the lift ratio on the fly, by itself, then back again to the optimal setting.

Now I understand what Graywolf means by an "automatic climbing device." I have never heard of that advertising jargon until today. It is either a selling point from an ad agent, or perhaps a poor translation from German to English. So, what is the knob on top of some walking foot machines? Simply stated, this knob raises and lowers the inside alternating foot in relation to the outside presser foot. Because of the manner in which the two feet are interconnected, raising the inside foot also increases the lift of the outside foot. Lowering the inside foot with the big knob decreases the lift of the presser foot as well. In normal operation, one would set the alternating height to the minimum needed for everyday use. This might typically work out to about 1/8 inch, or 3.2mm. With that amount of lift the machine should easily climb onto the next layer of 7-8 ounce leather and back down. The machine will run more smoothly with lower amounts of alternating lift. When the project contains different layers exceeding 1/8 inch, turning the top knob in the correct direction will greatly increase the lift of both feet. The enables it to climb up and down over differences possibly approaching a quarter inch on the new Adlers.

I found 10 packs of system 29x4 at Wawak.com, in sizes 18, 22, 23 and 24. These are equivalent to system 135x16, with only minor differences. You would have to buy a few packs to make it worth the $4.89 shipping charge though. Next find is at SuperiorThreads.com, who carry GB system 135x16 in size 22, in 10 packs, for $4.40 per pack, plus shipping. On to eBay, we find a seller offering 20 GB system 135x16, in size 140/22, for $10.95 and free shipping.

You probably need to know that the typical leather sewing machines, in use by the majority of leather crafters, are based on mechanical designs going back to anywhere from the early 1920s through the late 1980s. Some of the longest lasting and most copied walking foot machines are Singer 111 types, made from around WW2 through the 1980s, or so. Just about every walking foot machine is somehow based on the 111 feed system. So much information has been published about machines of this type that there is nothing new to tell. If one was to obtain the US Army field manuals for the Singer 111 type machines, it will bring you up to speed. More modern developments were reverse levers, self oilers, large bobbins and various bells and whistles. The more up to date machines use a rotary stitch length dial and a push down reverse lever. The huge harness machines are clones of the original and still produced Juki TSC-441. Thus, they are referred to as "441 clones." They all use an oscillating shuttle with a long hook, a pop open bobbin case attached to the shuttle and cylindrical bobbins that hold gobs of thread. These machines begin at the end of the regular walking foot machine ranges and go up from there. These are the types of machines that are normally used to make gun holsters, knife sheathes, weight lifters' belts and Police gear. They can handle very thick thread and use huge needles. A Juki 441 manual tells most of what needs to be known about the Chinese clones. The Juki 441 was the Japanese answer to the German Adler 205 cylinder arm (and 204 flatbed) machine. It uses a similar shuttle and hook, as well as the same bobbins and needles as the 441 machines. The 441 sold for a couple thousand dollars less than the 205. When the Chinese began cloning both the Adler 205 and Juki 441, they sold them to dealers around the World at less than half the price of the originals. This left the dealers enough headroom to pay for the shipping and customs fees, then do the necessary uncrating, degreasing, assembly, oiling and setting up operations that consume anywhere from 2 to 6 hours (4 avg) - and still sell them for half the price of a Juki or Adler. It took a very long time for walking foot development to move beyond these basic styles. The most recent improvements are seen in the brand new Adler 969 series. Weaver Leather sells these surreal machines, starting at almost 10 thousand dollars. This is triple what most people on this forum already think is too expensive for them.

The higher your budget, the better the machine you will end up with. Brands to watch for include: Singer 111w155 Consew 206RB-(number) Consew 255 series National 300N Seiko walking foot machines Juki LU-562 Juki LU-563 Juki DNU-1541 Some Brother walking foot machines Mitsubishi walking foot machines Cowboy and Cobra walking foot machines (Chinese, but well made for USA use). All of the aforementioned machines max out with #138 bonded nylon thread.

Maybe you can find a used walking foot machine being sold by an upholstery shop, or an individual; who did upholstery at home, through your local and nearby Craigslist ads. We also have a classifieds section on Leatherworker.net, called the Marketplace. There is a section for used sewing machines. look for a compound (triple) feed walking foot machine, like a Singer 111w155, or Consew 206RB-something, with a 20x48 inch table with a big 1/3rd or 1/2 horsepower motor underneath. These often show up within a hundred miles of major metropolitan areas. A typical price is between $500 to $800 in working condition. Those in very good condition and having thread, needles, bobbins and other accessories may go for a little more. Junk machines can be had for $300.

When I have problems like that I turn the work around and sew over the stitches moving forward, rather than reverse. I also place the needle on the side of the original stitches, rather than head on. Diamond/triangle point needles are less likely to cut the previous thread.

Graywolf; Since you plan to only sew vinyl and your space and budget is limited, you might want to look into the Sailrite portable dual feed walking foot machines. There are two types: straight stitch and zig-zag. If you don't need zig-zag, you will save a few hundred bucks. The LSZ-1 is their lower priced model, at about $749.. You set the machine on the floor or on a table, as needed. It has top and bottom feed, with aggressive teeth to move vinyl along, but hold it firmly between stitches. Sailrite is now producing and shipping their 3rd generation of portables, with beefed up components that were wearing out prematurely on previous models. There are a couple of upgrade packages they offer, like the Monster II wheel, or models in a carrying case, or bias tape folders and edge guides. The bobbins are a standard Class 15, as is used in hundreds of domestic and industrial sewing machines. They hold plenty of #69 bonded thread, which should be fine for your vinyl projects. Note, I only recommend these machines for vinyl, not leather. Also, I do not recommend any of the cheaper Chinese knockoffs under any circumstance. The next step up would be the new Consew P-1206RB, which costs just under a thousand dollars, from Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines. It has triple feed and comes on a 4' x 20" industrial table, with a Family Sew servo motor. Most shops can accommodate a 4 foot table. I had two in the expando of my trailer home until I moved them into my rented shop. They only stitch out 20 inches. Allowing a couple inches for material to flow over the back still keeps the table under 2 feet away from the wall.

I used to have a walking foot machine with two pressure screws and springs, like yours. When I fully backed off the inside foot pressure spring screw, I could almost get zero pressure on the outer presser foot adjuster.

Your machine has two pressure springs.The big one is for the outer foot and the little one is for the inside foot. You can adjust them separately if desired. If the inside foot spring is screwed down almost all the way, the outside spring has little effect. Back off the inside foot pressure and you will have more adjustment over the presser foot.

No shit?

That is correct. I sew backwards a few stitches, spin the work 180, drop the edge guide if needed, then sew to the end, where I reverse and sew back again to lock the stitches. Sometimes I opt to just lift the feet and pull the material towards me, two or three stitch lengths, drop the feet and resew through those stitches. On other jobs, if the back side won't be seen, I may just hold the threads and start sewing to the end. Then I pull the top thread through the back side with a seam ripper and tie the starting threads together in a knot. Ditto for the ending stitch. This is especially useful of large projects, like bomber jackets, where spinning the work isn't trivial (I sew in zippers and patches all the time).

Been there and done that! It isn't a case of sewing machine X can or can't "sew" vinyl or leather. It is a matter of how efficiently it does the job. This includes more than just penetrating the material with a thin needle and thin thread and moving it along for the next stitch. I routinely demonstrate old iron Singer and White Rotary sewing machines I have for sale sewing scrap leather and vinyl. Almost any sewing machine can move a small cut of any material that fits under the foot. But, try sewing a tarp, or banner, or large seat cover on these bottom feeders and they quickly bog down and sew into the same hole. It takes a dual or triple feed walking foot machine to properly transport heavy or long sections of vinyl and get a long stitch length. For instance, I have for sale a Singer Model 27 that can sew into 8 ounces of bridle leather, with #69 thread and just about get close to 5 stitches per inch. But, I wouldn't expect it to sew riding chaps, or tarps/awnings, or a banner, or a holster. Rather, I use a long body compound feed walking foot machine for these jobs. While the old #27 maxes out with #69 thread, the walking foot is just coming into its own with that thread. It can transport a 14 foot tent, at 4 stitches per inch, with #92 thread, at up to 2000 stitches per minute, or faster. It makes sewing banners, tarps and seat covers a lot faster than on a slower speed machine that might max out at 600 to 800 stitches per minute. Let's move along to the motors and drive belts. The old Singer machines have a 13" to 14" belt that goes from a teensie motor that consumes about 100 watts, plus or minus, to the flywheel pulley that's about 3.5 inches in diameter. They maybe put out 1/10th of a horsepower. Most of the older motors on those machines didn't even put out that much. A Featherweight motor is only rated at 0.4 amps/44 watts. Beautiful, light weight machine, but totally gutless for anything heavier than pieces of quilts. I put a 1 amp motor on the old 27, so it can penetrate small pieces of bridle leather without handwheeling it to start. The Singer machines are able to drive pretty hard because of the bobbin winder clutch on the handwheel. As long as you tighten it all the way down, there is no slippage, unless the belt itself slips (you can tighten the belt). But, the old White and Kenmore Rotary machines are driven by a tiny rubber wheel on the motor shaft. This thingy is about 3/4 inch diameter. The motor is spring loaded and pushes the rubber wheel against the hand wheel to drive the machine. It doesn't take very much back pressure from the material to cause this setup to slip. The Rotary machines are best limited to cloth, which has very little resistance.

Personally, if I'm having a problem matching stitches in reverse, I spin the work 360 degrees and stitch through a few stitches in the forward direction. That way the holes always line up. I use the same system on some of my old machines that don't have any reverse.

I had better success sewing Biothane with the feed dog and standard plate.

Biothane is not leather! Did you send a piece of Biothane to the dealer so he could setup the feed to match in both directions? This would have eliminated the problem before it came up in your shop. Assuming you didn't and the dealer wasn't aware of Biothane's stickiness and density, you need to make an adjustment to change the reverse stitch length, to get it to match forward stitching. Here are some simple things you can try without any dealer interaction. Set the inside foot to meet the top of the slotted plate just after the needle. Set the inside foot to meet the top of the Biothane with the tip of the needle Loosen the bolts on the stitch length/direction nacelle. remove the top bolt. Pull outward on the very top, insert a washer, push the top bolt into it, and screw the bolts back into the body. This will change the stitch length in reverse. It often compensates for mismatched stitch lengths on these machines. Loosen the pressure on the feet. Don't back off to the point where the 'thane lifts with the needle though, or you'll get skipped stitches. Try a diamond/triangle point needle. If none of the above correct the stitch length problem, call the dealer for instructions on adjusting the internal parts that control the directional stitch lengths (not simple or trivial). The dealer should walk you through the procedure. Don't attempt this on your own!

Did you buy the Ferdco from an individual or a sewing machine dealer? If a dealer, contact them about returning the head for repairs. If the seller can't help you, one of our member dealers probably can. Check the banners on top of our forums for links to our supporting dealers' websites.

Try phoning them during business hours. The # is 866-362-7397. If you don't have long distance calling to the USA, try sending a message via our PM system, to CowboyBob.

Rather than buying from strangers on eBay, please contact Techsew directly via their banner that appears on top of our pages. Techsew is a supporting dealer on Leatherworker.net and has a company rep who frequents this forum (Techsew Ron). If you don't see one of their banners in the group of six, refresh the page until one displays. That banner will take you to their website. It is the dealers and companies whose banners fly in the headings of our pages that keeps this busy site afloat. With only a couple of exceptions, eBay sellers don't financially support us, nor will most of them assist you with problems you may have after the sale. Our member-dealers offer phone and email support, as well as using our own PM system.

The floating stitch lever was a problem on the early LU-563s. It happened to mine and one I ordered for an associate. The dealers had to do something to the internal springs to stop this from happening. The floating lever results in shortening stitch lengths, which get worse at higher speeds.

Yes, but ask the dealer for the correct guide that fits the hole spacing. Also get the proper screws with the guide, for that brand of machine.