Wizcrafts

When I have problems like that I turn the work around and sew over the stitches moving forward, rather than reverse. I also place the needle on the side of the original stitches, rather than head on. Diamond/triangle point needles are less likely to cut the previous thread.

Graywolf; Since you plan to only sew vinyl and your space and budget is limited, you might want to look into the Sailrite portable dual feed walking foot machines. There are two types: straight stitch and zig-zag. If you don't need zig-zag, you will save a few hundred bucks. The LSZ-1 is their lower priced model, at about $749.. You set the machine on the floor or on a table, as needed. It has top and bottom feed, with aggressive teeth to move vinyl along, but hold it firmly between stitches. Sailrite is now producing and shipping their 3rd generation of portables, with beefed up components that were wearing out prematurely on previous models. There are a couple of upgrade packages they offer, like the Monster II wheel, or models in a carrying case, or bias tape folders and edge guides. The bobbins are a standard Class 15, as is used in hundreds of domestic and industrial sewing machines. They hold plenty of #69 bonded thread, which should be fine for your vinyl projects. Note, I only recommend these machines for vinyl, not leather. Also, I do not recommend any of the cheaper Chinese knockoffs under any circumstance. The next step up would be the new Consew P-1206RB, which costs just under a thousand dollars, from Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines. It has triple feed and comes on a 4' x 20" industrial table, with a Family Sew servo motor. Most shops can accommodate a 4 foot table. I had two in the expando of my trailer home until I moved them into my rented shop. They only stitch out 20 inches. Allowing a couple inches for material to flow over the back still keeps the table under 2 feet away from the wall.

I used to have a walking foot machine with two pressure screws and springs, like yours. When I fully backed off the inside foot pressure spring screw, I could almost get zero pressure on the outer presser foot adjuster.

Your machine has two pressure springs.The big one is for the outer foot and the little one is for the inside foot. You can adjust them separately if desired. If the inside foot spring is screwed down almost all the way, the outside spring has little effect. Back off the inside foot pressure and you will have more adjustment over the presser foot.

No shit?

That is correct. I sew backwards a few stitches, spin the work 180, drop the edge guide if needed, then sew to the end, where I reverse and sew back again to lock the stitches. Sometimes I opt to just lift the feet and pull the material towards me, two or three stitch lengths, drop the feet and resew through those stitches. On other jobs, if the back side won't be seen, I may just hold the threads and start sewing to the end. Then I pull the top thread through the back side with a seam ripper and tie the starting threads together in a knot. Ditto for the ending stitch. This is especially useful of large projects, like bomber jackets, where spinning the work isn't trivial (I sew in zippers and patches all the time).

Been there and done that! It isn't a case of sewing machine X can or can't "sew" vinyl or leather. It is a matter of how efficiently it does the job. This includes more than just penetrating the material with a thin needle and thin thread and moving it along for the next stitch. I routinely demonstrate old iron Singer and White Rotary sewing machines I have for sale sewing scrap leather and vinyl. Almost any sewing machine can move a small cut of any material that fits under the foot. But, try sewing a tarp, or banner, or large seat cover on these bottom feeders and they quickly bog down and sew into the same hole. It takes a dual or triple feed walking foot machine to properly transport heavy or long sections of vinyl and get a long stitch length. For instance, I have for sale a Singer Model 27 that can sew into 8 ounces of bridle leather, with #69 thread and just about get close to 5 stitches per inch. But, I wouldn't expect it to sew riding chaps, or tarps/awnings, or a banner, or a holster. Rather, I use a long body compound feed walking foot machine for these jobs. While the old #27 maxes out with #69 thread, the walking foot is just coming into its own with that thread. It can transport a 14 foot tent, at 4 stitches per inch, with #92 thread, at up to 2000 stitches per minute, or faster. It makes sewing banners, tarps and seat covers a lot faster than on a slower speed machine that might max out at 600 to 800 stitches per minute. Let's move along to the motors and drive belts. The old Singer machines have a 13" to 14" belt that goes from a teensie motor that consumes about 100 watts, plus or minus, to the flywheel pulley that's about 3.5 inches in diameter. They maybe put out 1/10th of a horsepower. Most of the older motors on those machines didn't even put out that much. A Featherweight motor is only rated at 0.4 amps/44 watts. Beautiful, light weight machine, but totally gutless for anything heavier than pieces of quilts. I put a 1 amp motor on the old 27, so it can penetrate small pieces of bridle leather without handwheeling it to start. The Singer machines are able to drive pretty hard because of the bobbin winder clutch on the handwheel. As long as you tighten it all the way down, there is no slippage, unless the belt itself slips (you can tighten the belt). But, the old White and Kenmore Rotary machines are driven by a tiny rubber wheel on the motor shaft. This thingy is about 3/4 inch diameter. The motor is spring loaded and pushes the rubber wheel against the hand wheel to drive the machine. It doesn't take very much back pressure from the material to cause this setup to slip. The Rotary machines are best limited to cloth, which has very little resistance.

Personally, if I'm having a problem matching stitches in reverse, I spin the work 360 degrees and stitch through a few stitches in the forward direction. That way the holes always line up. I use the same system on some of my old machines that don't have any reverse.

I had better success sewing Biothane with the feed dog and standard plate.

Biothane is not leather! Did you send a piece of Biothane to the dealer so he could setup the feed to match in both directions? This would have eliminated the problem before it came up in your shop. Assuming you didn't and the dealer wasn't aware of Biothane's stickiness and density, you need to make an adjustment to change the reverse stitch length, to get it to match forward stitching. Here are some simple things you can try without any dealer interaction. Set the inside foot to meet the top of the slotted plate just after the needle. Set the inside foot to meet the top of the Biothane with the tip of the needle Loosen the bolts on the stitch length/direction nacelle. remove the top bolt. Pull outward on the very top, insert a washer, push the top bolt into it, and screw the bolts back into the body. This will change the stitch length in reverse. It often compensates for mismatched stitch lengths on these machines. Loosen the pressure on the feet. Don't back off to the point where the 'thane lifts with the needle though, or you'll get skipped stitches. Try a diamond/triangle point needle. If none of the above correct the stitch length problem, call the dealer for instructions on adjusting the internal parts that control the directional stitch lengths (not simple or trivial). The dealer should walk you through the procedure. Don't attempt this on your own!

Did you buy the Ferdco from an individual or a sewing machine dealer? If a dealer, contact them about returning the head for repairs. If the seller can't help you, one of our member dealers probably can. Check the banners on top of our forums for links to our supporting dealers' websites.

Try phoning them during business hours. The # is 866-362-7397. If you don't have long distance calling to the USA, try sending a message via our PM system, to CowboyBob.

Rather than buying from strangers on eBay, please contact Techsew directly via their banner that appears on top of our pages. Techsew is a supporting dealer on Leatherworker.net and has a company rep who frequents this forum (Techsew Ron). If you don't see one of their banners in the group of six, refresh the page until one displays. That banner will take you to their website. It is the dealers and companies whose banners fly in the headings of our pages that keeps this busy site afloat. With only a couple of exceptions, eBay sellers don't financially support us, nor will most of them assist you with problems you may have after the sale. Our member-dealers offer phone and email support, as well as using our own PM system.

The floating stitch lever was a problem on the early LU-563s. It happened to mine and one I ordered for an associate. The dealers had to do something to the internal springs to stop this from happening. The floating lever results in shortening stitch lengths, which get worse at higher speeds.

Yes, but ask the dealer for the correct guide that fits the hole spacing. Also get the proper screws with the guide, for that brand of machine.

You can get some answers from the Singer 168w101 manual (pdf).

You can order a modified stand-alone industrial bobbin winder from Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines, altered to fit the 441 bobbins. They are modded as ordered. I have on order for my Singer 42-5.

Thanks Bob. I didn't know that Ferdinand made a foot with a bottom tab.

Anybody wanting more info on these Cowboy/Hightex 205 clones can call Bob Kovar, at: 866-362-7397. He knows as much about them as anybody I know of. Like i said earlier, I contemplated buying that model over the CB4500. The difference was a thousand dollars more and about a hundred pounds more weight.

Make sure you don't use leather point needles on nylon webbing. The non-round points will slice and separate strands of nylon. If you have been using leather points, buy some regular rounds and see if they stop the thread splitting. I usually use a #19, or sometimes a #20 needle with T90 bonded thread. The only times I get splitting top thread is when the thread itself is poorly bonded.

The Hightex 7205 is sold in the USA as the Cowboy CB205. It is a clone of the now deprecated Adler 205 series. They are or were sold and serviced by Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines. I almost bought one when I got my CB4500. The 205 is much heavier and pricier than the 4500, but Bob said it ran smooth for its size.

Tagger609; How did your machine end up with a Cobra style inside foot? They have the tab on the bottom that is designed to push down the leather in the stitch line. It is meant for the Cobra slotted plate which has a long, narrow slot. Your machine seems to have a shorter slot. You can work around the problem until a replacement foot arrives by shortening the stitch length so the inside foot stops before the end of the slot. Or, grind off the bottom tab.

Armor is sometimes made of sole leather. You ain't gonna sew that with much less than a harness stitcher. These machines can sew 1/2 inch with the heaviest bonded threads in common use. Other models with longer arms can sew over 3/4 inches of hard leather.

You will find that out shortly after changing to a #18 needle ;-) Most upholstery grade machines are set up to use from #18 through #22 needles. I think your machine will be fine with a #18. If not, try tweaking the position of the check spring, or its travel. This little spring keeps the top thread taut as the take-up lever moves down. When it lets go can affect the quality of the loop that forms on the right side of the needle, as it begins its ascent from BDC.. The broader the loop, the less chance you have of getting skipped stitches.

Bob's movie is in the .mov format. I use Windows 10 and when I clicked on the file, it offered to play it in an app called "TwinUi" - which is a built-in Win10 Movie and TV player. In previous OS's, I would have used the Quicktime Alternative from Free-codecs.com.