Wizcrafts

25! Or, a drop-down select box for the user to choose. I'll try to throw together the HTML for one...

If the shuttle has passed the needle after the up-down jog, retard the hook timing. This is done by poking a long flatblade screwdriver through a hole in the right side base of the machine and turning the eccentric screw that couples the down shaft to the shaft inside the arm. There is a nut on the back of that coupling that may need to be loosened first. After you successfull time the shuttle, tighten the lock nut again.

@hampasragnar There is another possible cause for the shuttle not picking up the top thread. I'm assuming that you already have threaded the top correctly and have the thread going through the take-up lever. That cause would be a worn out, bent, or gouged paddle spring inside the needle bar, which is visible just above the needle clamping bracket. Lower the needle bar all the way, then look above the clamping bracket. You should see a paddle shaped spring. It has to press against the thread and hold it in place as the needle makes its down-up-down jog at pick-off time. If that spring doesn't hold the thread in place during that cycle, you'll get missed stitches because the thread can't form a good loop on the right side of the needle. Sadly, replacing that spring is like rocket science. ;-(

What size thread are you running on the top and bottom? What size needle? Is the needle a round point or a leather point? Are you trying to sew through cemented or taped layers? The glue or \sticky tape can clog the eye of the needle. If the layers are dry but the needle is too small for the thread, it can lift the leather on the way up when the lockstitch knots try to come up through the hole on the bottom, but it's too tight. A bigger needle helps overcome that problem. As mentioned before, increase the foot pressure to help hold down the leather as the needle ascends. Another thing that can cause the needle to stick in leather is sewing too fast. This causes extreme heat to develop as the needle penetrates the leather and comes back up. Slow down to a couple stitches per second and this should stop being the problem. Also, extremely dry thread might cause some problems.

I agree with Constabulary's list. Those topics can be unpinned, or archived. Still, I like the idea of the user having an options box to choose the number of topics to display per page. When I'm at home I'm on cable Internet. I can load a hundred lines of topics in the blink of an eye.. My cellphone is usually connected to a router unless I'm driving. I only use it when I'm stationary. I think that 25 lines is a good default setting as long as the users can choose less in an options box.

There was a previous discussion about the Adler 30-15 on Leatherworker.net. It was determined that this model uses the shorter System 332, aka: 135x16, 135x17, 29x3, or 29x4 needles. If that needle doesn't pick up the thread, the timing is probably off because the shuttle driving gears are loose, worn out, or misaligned. Or, maybe the shuttle hook is damaged or incorrect for the machine, or maybe you need to move the needle clamp closer to the hook.

@hampasragnar Your video link is no good. Try creating a YouTube account and upload it there. Then link to it and it will appear here.

Sometimes, if the thread is very coily, knots will form on the top of the leather. The same twistiness can cause the thread to jump out of the business area of the tension disks, or bobbin spring. Weaver thread is known for this problem in the darker colors. Black and dark brown are the worst offenders in this regard. I try to counteract clockwise coily thread by wrapping it counterclockwise around two holes in the top thread guide post on my Cowboy CB4500. It really does help cut down on the twisting at the needle.

Thanks! One reason for me using Schmetz Serv 7 needles is that the larger eye is a little less likely to get clogged up when I sew through double-sided leather basting tape from Wawak, or contact cement, or other glues.

@friquant Try some #46 bonded thread with a #14 round point needle. This material may not like bonded thread. Try household polycore thread, which is close to number 50, which is close to bonded 46. Reposition the check spring to the center position.

@Tigweldor If you want to sell this machine, please list it in our Marketplace section, under Sewing Equipment/Old. If you do, make sure you include a price, or offers, the location, if it has to be picked up in person, or if you will ship it, and include the photos. Maybe, show it sewing up the arm. I can move it for you if you prefer. You'll still need to fill in those details.

The needle size is very good. But, you didn't state whether it is round point or some leather point shape. When sewing cloth, or any woven, or synthetic, or embroidered object, always use a round point needle. I use and recommend Schmetz Serv 7 needles, which can be bought in packs of 10. They have a larger eye than most other walking foot needles. The only ones with a larger eye are Schmetz Go needles, which must be purchased in boxes of 100. Are you using system 135x17 or system 190 needles in your Pfaff H4 (high lift) machine?

I think that you will be served well by either a Consew 206RB-5 or a Juki DNU-1541. Both are compound feed walking foot machines capable of handling up to #138 bonded thread.

Most of us use a #24 needle with #207 thread, top and bottom. However, if you use #138 in the bobbin, a #23 needle should work. If the knots are showing on top, and you've backed off the top tension settings (primary and secondary disks), Increase the bobbin spring tension. Also, install the bobbin so that it feeds against the direction of the slit to the spring. This increases the tension while ensuring that the thread doesn't work itself out of the tension spring.

Your thread is one size too large for 10 ounces of leather. I recommend moving down to #207. It is too hard to bury the knots with #277 until you approach 1/4 inch thickness. I have done it in 12-13 ounces, but only after tightening both the top and bottom tensions (to overcome density variations or glue between the layers).

Here are some good manuals for servicing and operating Singer 111 machines. The Navy manual covers the Singer 111 in Chapter 4. 111W152_W153_W154_W155.pdf Navy_Repair_manual_on_31-15,111w,199_zig-zag.pdf Singer 111W Consew 225 REPAIR_compressed.pdf

My 31-15 is from 1921. It has a pinned shuttle driver and cannot sew with #138 thread. It has trouble with #92 thread. It is fine with #69 or under. I could probably convert it to a newer threaded shaft and shuttle driver if I really needed it for chaps. But, I keep it for sewing garments only. Coincidentally, my Father had a 1920 31-15 all of his professional life as a tailor.

Tony stopped making sewing machines years ago. The last model he made was called the Windham Cub, which was sold to Weaver Leather and rebranded as the Weaver Cub.

Any walking foot machine that can sew 3/8 of an inch will have to have a maximum clearance of about 1/2 inch with the feet fully up. This is because they walk up and down about 1/8 inch, plus or minus. So, look for a machine that clears 1/2 inch or greater. The Juki LU-1508NH comes to mind. This is a production machine that will last for decades if not abused (meaning oil it regularly). There are clones of this machine, but they aren't cheap. If you really intend to sew something with #46 bonded thread, know that it is about the same size as common garment thread; just stronger. I believe that you'll need a #12 or #14 needle and probably a softer action primary tension spring. The check spring tension will need to be backed off and the bobbin spring action increased. In other words, you'll have to dumb down the machine to use #46 thread. Rather than dumbing down a walking foot machine, think about getting a bottom feed tailoring machine with a flat foot. Or, if you'll be sewing thin leather, a roller foot machine. The advantage of a tailoring machine is that it will have a small hole in the throat plate to accommodate a #12 or #14 needle without excessive clearance like a walking foot machine will have. The first machine that comes to mind is a Singer 31-15 flat foot, or 31-19 "kick foot" that has a spring loaded outside foot, but fixed position needle and inside foot. These are flat bed machines that can easily handle thread sizes 46 through 92. By changing the needle plate and tension spring, they can handle #138 thread. Further, there are roller foot conversion kits that fit the 31-15. Boot makers, like Lisa Sorrell, often use this machine, or one like it to sew fancy stitching on Cowboy boots.

@MattiJoy2; Get the model number and maybe a low res photo.

@MattiJoy2; You will need two machines if your friend intends to sew serious holsters. The reason is that a proper holster should be sewn with a minimum thread sizer of #277. The machines capable of handling this size thread are too heavy duty for upholstery. I know because I own multiple sewing machines and can attest to the fact that big holster ready machines will eat thin leather and vinyl unless they are "dumbed down." Unless you can only afford one machine, consider getting a heavy duty machine for holsters and sheathes and another medium duty machine for thinner work and vinyl. I use a Cowboy CB4500 for heavy thread and thick projects and various walking foot machines for lighter jobs. Some are flat bed, one is a cylinder arm, two are patchers and one is a post bed machine. Each does something better than other configurations.

You can use the search box to look for previous discussions of the machines you are interested in. There, you will learn about any issues others have had with those machines. I always recommend that you go and try out the machine, or have the owner show you if it sews and how to thread and operate it. From reading previous topics about the Adler 291, it may be a difficult machine for a beginner. Also, parts may be a problem. As for the Consew, it is a simpler walking foot machine that is similar in design to the venerable Singer 111 series. The G size bobbins hold a fair amount of thread. It is limited to #138 thread, tops. Most of the time, I use either #69 or #92 bonded thread in my Singer walking foot machines.

I split your request into a new topic. Hopefully, you will get the information you are searching for. But, as long as the machine is fully functional, who cares about the serial number or date of manufacture? I've had machines with obliterated serial numbers that worked perfectly. I've had others with clear serial numbers that were pieces of crap. Go see the machine and test run it with a piece of 8 ounce leather.

If your disability affects your hands and arms, the Outlaw will be a real challenge to operate.The Cowboy 3200 and Cobra 4 are heavy duty harness stitchers that are best used with medium through heavy thread sizes. You'd be hard pressed to sew anything thin, or very soft with those machines. The Cobra 26 is a beefed up walking foot machine that's less heavy duty than the harness machines. It won't sew thick holsters or knife sheathes as efficiently as say the cb3200. If it was me facing this decision, I'd go for the heaviest duty machine that meets the heaviest work requirements, then I'd dumb it down to sew thinner work. Alternately, I'd buy one machine for thick, dense leather, that handles very heavy thread and has huge, long needles. Then, I'd buy a used walking foot machine, like the Singer 153, to handle thinner, less dense work that doesn't need large thread and huge needles.

I used to have a Singer 153. It is a medium duty walking foot, cylinder arm machine. It struggled to sew over 1/4 inch of veg-tan leather with #138 thread and a #23 needle. It's not suitable for holsters as they should be sewn with at least #207, if not 277 thread. It is better at sewing compressible leather. It can sew up to 5/6 inch of soft to medium temper chrome tan bag or jacket, or chap leather. Aside from the thickness and thread size limitations, the 153 is a good machine as long as you don't exceed those limitations. It can sew chaps, jackets, aprons, totes, tool pouches, patches, hems, purses and wallets. If you are considering buying this machine, make sure that it's mounted on a powered table and that the motor works. This is a very old machine and may be driven by a heavy clutch motor. You'll have to learn to feather the clutch, or else, swap it out for a servo motor. This will involve additional costs.