Wizcrafts

Wrong! When the needle, which contains just the top thread, reaches BDC, then begins to ascend, it forms a loop on the side where the hook resides. At a certain position of motion, the hook picks up the top thread, above the eye of the needle, and carries it around the bobbin case. The bobbin thread is surrounded and captured by the top thread on its way out and back up. That loop of top thread surrounds the bobbin case as the hook rotates or oscillates back and forth. As the top thread is pulled around the shuttle by its hook, at about the halfway point, the take-up lever pulls the top thread the rest of the way around the shuttle, then up into the material, forming stitches with overlocked knots of the top and bottom threads. The hook is merely a sharp point connected to the shuttle. Some shuttles are rotary and others oscillate back and forth. The top thread that was pulled off of the needle totally surrounds the shuttle on its way back out. The lockstitch process requires that the bottom thread be in a self-contained structure, not fed from an external spool. The top thread surrounding the shuttle would get snagged by an externally fed bottom thread that wasn't contained inside the shuttle. Maybe, someday, somebody will figure out a way to form lock stitches from two spools of thread, one on the top and one on the bottom, without the use of a self-contained bobbin in a shuttle. If that person obtains a patent and produces a working machine, they could become a dad gum gozillionair!

I can't see the pictures. Only Apple computers or phones will display that file format, unless the user has installed a file converter app..

@Brad denham I can't see your photos because I use a Windows computer. Can you save them as .jpg files and repost them?

Sometimes, it's the way the thread comes off the spool. SOme thread is twisty. Some is bonded too much or too little, some windings may have crossed over or under other windings, some windings fall down and get caught under the spool. I've had knots suddenly appear on top after laying perfectly in the center. Sometimes, I discover that the top thread has twisted itself around the thread stand and is jammed tight. Even the bobbin thread can jump out of its position under the tension spring. Or, it could get caught under the bobbin.

Fascinating!

Smooth bottom presser and alternating feet are standard on the Juki 1541. It is unusual to find feet with teeth on that model. serrated feet are normally used on dual feed machines that have a bottom feed dog and top presser foot that pull the work back in sync. These machines are made to sew heavy vinyl and upholstery fabrics through the machine. Your Juki 1541 is a triple feed machines meant to sew leather. The only reason for there being serrated feet is that the previous owner had to sew some heavy weight or slick material that would slip under the smooth feet.

I use a special inline foot set on my Cowboy cb4500. The width is about 1/4 inch, or a little less. The presser foot sits behind the alternating inside foot and sews inline on narrow flanges. If your machine is a 441 or clone, you can get these feet from Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines, who are advertisers here.

The 5/8" is when the feet are lifted up by the foot lift pedal or knee lever. The needle must be fully up at TDC in order to lift that high. This high lift is so that thick seams and fur linings can clear the feet and needle when you position the work on the machine. Once the foot pedal/knee lever is lowered, the feet will alternate about 3/16ths of an inch up and down as you sew. The alternating action maxes out at about 3/8 inch with System 135x16/17 needles. Trying to sew thicker stacks may cause the bottom of the needle bar to hit the top of the inside foot, or even the outside foot if they are a narrow set. This limits the useful sewing height despite the specs referring to a higher lift number. I experimented and found this to be the case.

The 289 is still an upholstery class machine. As such, it can handle #138 thread with a #23 needle, or possibly #207 thread with a #24 needle. The maximum thickness would be the same 3/8 of an inch of soft to medium temper leather. I might be able to sew two 8 ounce pieces of bridle leather, but not hard veg-tan or latigo. I own a similar machine made by Singer. I use it to sew patches onto vests and hats. When I first got it I tried running #207 thread in it. The machine struggled and tended to jam up. It has no trouble with #138 thread. But, it didn't like hard veg.

Did you try searching our forum? I did and got this first hit:

I'd advance the shuttle a bit so the tip arrives a little higher above the needle's eye.

@Zonker62 I always load my bobbins so they unload against the direction of the slit under the tension spring. That sharp turn adds some tension but helps keep the thread under the spring. If your bobbin suffers from run-on rotation, get an "anti-backlash spring." Some are round and some are star shaped. They simply drop in under the bobbin and hold onto it as the shuttle spins. They bring the bobbin to a better halt when you stop and start rapidly.

His ip address shows that he is in Canada.

There should be a push button somewhere on the bed of the machine. You push down on it while rotating the balance wheel backwards until the safety clutch mechanism connects, with a noticeable sound. If the safety clutch engages too easily, there may be adjustments on it to stiffen the action more.

All upholstery shops have walking foot machines. Every now and then they buy a new machine and retire an older one. Call around to any upholstery shops to see if or what they have available to sell. If a walking foot machine is still in good working condition, it may sell for between $500 and $800. Anything less means the machine is in questionable condition. A bonus of buying a used upholstery machine is that they seller knows how to thread, oil and adjust the machine. They can demo the machine for you, and may even teach you how to take care of it yourself. This is worth a lot of good karma, and will save you headaches down the road. A lot of new members on LWN ask basic operating questions because the bought a machine from somebody that didn't know anything about it, and couldn't demo or explain its operation. Another option is to try to locate an industrial sewing machines dealer near you, go there in person, and buy a new or used machine after getting hands-on instructions.

I also have a Singer 107w in my shop. It is handy for jobs requiring a zig-zag stitch. It can sew with #69 bonded thread into 5-6 ounce chrome tanned shoe upper leather, like that tanned by S.B. Foot. But, that's not all it's good for. I also use the 107 to sew linings and cloth that would be eaten by my walking foot machines. To do this I move the stitch width selector on the back to zero throw. This places the needle on one side of the presser foot. I use the stitch length knob on the rear to get a longer stitch. The maximum throw is about 1/4 inch, or slightly wider. While this wouldn't be a first machine to buy for a leather shop, it would be a good addition. Your first machine should be a compound feed walking foot machine. An example is the out-of-production Singer 111w155.

This is a question that you should ask the manufacturer, if you can find their website, and if they have a contact form. If you can't find the manufacturer, contact the company that sold you the machine. Maybe they know how to reach the builder. You attempted to link to a flat bed attachment, but neglected to include the URL. Please try again.

That part is known as the "latch opener." It should be set to pull back on the bobbin case as the thread goes around it, then let go after the thread knot is pulled up past the notch in the throat plate. There is a small amount of wiggle room in that cutout for the little tab on the bobbin case/shuttle to move forward and backward. Pulling it back at the right moment frees the thread to go up without hindrance. It should not be set to pull back hard against its stopped position. Leave a tiny amount of clearance at the pulled back position so you don't break anything or wear out the pulled parts.

The Class 26 is not a 441 clone. Its maximum needle size is probably a #24 or #25, but a 25 might be aweful close to the feed dog hole diameter. Ask the dealer. The Class 26 is not too heavy duty for wallets and belts as long as you use #92 thread with a #19 needle or larger. I don't know how well it nandles #69 thread and #18 needles.

I have a Kenmore 158 that I used to use in my shop when I had to sew cloth and linings. It is a good machine and was well built. I don't know about the availability of parts though. I think they are strong enough to sew soft leather, or to sew patches onto vests, but not over pockets. The Adler you have is a 30-70, not the other way around. ;-) It is a great machine for sewing patches over sleeves and pockets, or for sewing in zippers.

The cb3200 is one of the 441 class sewing machines, but, at 1/2 inch, it has less thickness capacity than the cb4500 and similar large models. The arm is shorter too, measuring in at 10.5 inches. Other than that, it uses the same needles, bobbins and thread. However, the Cowboy raised holster and stirrup plates are too tall for the 3200 due to its lower thickness capacity. Further, the optional drop-down edge guide doesn't fit on the 3200. If most of your projects will be between 1/8th and 1/2 inch thickness, this machine will serve you very well.

Yeppers! You scored the Motherload with that type of adjuster. You can position the brake pad as close or far away as you want, within the limits of the housing.

The more the slack, the better. Do whatever it takes to move the brake pad away from the clutch drive plate. If it's already on the verge of engaging, back off the screw to give it more hold vs motion time. Somebody with a shop should come up with an adjustable clutch/brake pad accessory for these motors.

Run on is the reason for leaving the brake on. But, open the motor housing where the lever comes out and look to see is there is a screw adjustment to preposition the lever downward, or to move the brake pad outward. If so, you can move the lever down to a point where the cork just engages, then fine tune it so it to minimize the free play before it engages with the motor. Some folks have actually sanded down the cork brake pad to get more movement before it hits the metal drive plate. That's the ideal situation. Clutch motors have an adjustment for free play that most servo motors lack.

You can read or download the documentation directly from Adler's website, here. There have been discussions about this model on Leatherworker.net. Just use our search box to search for all topics containing the term: Adler 269-373