Wizcrafts

Note, that some compensating presser feet also have a built in edge guide flange or spring that rides along the right edge of the belt.

Professional dress belt makers use a straight stitch drop feed machine, with aggressive teeth on the bottom, and a specially made tapered presser foot that covers the entire belt, pressing down on the thinner edges and riding high in the raised middle area. I have seen videos of these belt machines in action. You may be able to approximate this tapered foot by purchasing a straight stitch machine and changing the feed dog and throat plate to a heavy duty set. Then purchase what's known in the trade as a compensating foot, where the spring loaded section is on the wider left portion, with the right side remaining static. The right edge will press down hard on the edge, while the spring loaded left foot will float and ride the hump. This will require some experimentation to find the best compensating foot.

Adjust the bobbin tension to have a modest steady pull. Not too loose, not too tight. Use the top tension disks to balance the knots. Use the minimum size needle for tighter knots and vice-versa.

It is unsafe to post email addresses in plain text on web pages. You are better off posting your phone number, or get a throw-away email account and ask people to send their inquiries to that account.

I forgot about the LU-562 being the standard G bobbin. I owned a 563 with the double capacity bobbins. My Singer 139w109 long arm walking foot machine has a Juki hook and uses Juki LU bobbins.

Wrong! The Juki LU machines use a double capacity type LU bobbin, which holds about 25% more thread than an M style bobbin.

Sometimes it is better to cut your losses on a particular troublesome sewing machine and buy something that is known to be in good working condition. Otherwise, you will end up investing as much in trial and error parts as the cost of the machine head itself.

Indeed, it is very waxy. I always rough up the flesh side when gluing bridle leather. A wire brush will do the trick. Rough both sides, then apply your glue. We use Master's shoe cement in our leather shop. We thin it as needed with Master's thinner.

I have a 31-15 that gave me kanipshins for a while, jamming the bobbin case as the shuttle turned. I tamed the shrew by a combination of trying different bobbin cases (they vary), backing off the spring pressure screw on the large C shaped spring on the back of the shuttle race (gives more or less clearance for the case and thread) and bending the shuttle driver outward very slightly (more slack = less binding, but slightly iffy timing).

If the thread is going through all of the top guides, tension disks, check spring and take-up lever, and the bobbin is wound correctly, then the only explanations would be failure to hold back the starting threads, or the needle rotated out of left to right alignment - with the scarf on the right, which leads to top thread jamming the bobbin case and shuttle. When that happens, the Consew 206RB pops a safety clutch and disengages the shuttle drive to protect the hook. If that has occurred, completely clear out the tangled thread, then hold down the button on the bed of the machine, to the right of the bobbin area and rotate the hand wheel in reverse until the clutch pops back into place.

Pokeriknot; It appears your machine is in need of expert repair. Take, or ship it to an industrial sewing machine dealer. If it is under warranty, send it to the dealership who sold it to you. If you dink with it and make it worse, the cost of dealer repairs will go way up.

Needles have to be fully inserted into their mounting clamps/brackets, plus aligned to position the thread loop towards the approaching hook. If the needle is too many degrees out of alignment, the hook may not pick off the loop. On top of that, thread coming off industrial spools twists. If it coils in the opposite direction to the rotation of the hook, the loop may be hard to pick off. In this instance it may help to wind the top thread backwards to its twist around a post on top or before the top tension disks. This will counteract the twist and may give a better loop at the eye of the needle. Black bonded nylon thread is double dyed and is the most twisty of all colors.

I can't tell from your photo if the needle is inserted correctly or not. Make sure that the ridge is on the left and the cutout "scarf" is on the right. Thread from left to right. Make sure you haven't forgotten to thread through all tensioners, the check spring and the take-up lever. Make sure there is thread in the bobbin. What else? Inspect the needle to see if it is bent. Make sure you inserted it all the way into the needle bar needle mounting clamp. Check the shuttle to ensure that is is rotating and is in time.

Even the folks at Sailrite will tell you that their portables are not meant to sew anything tougher than upholstery leather. I think you will do well with the Artisan 335 portable walking foot machine. It should easily handle 3/8 inch of compressed leather, using the standard system 135x16 needles. I also believe that they have clearanced the hook to allow it to sew with #207 thread. I would send them some of the material you plan on sewing and ask for a demo on that machine.

How thick are the combined materials, what size thread do you want to use and do you need a cylinder arm or will a flat bed machine do? The answers will help us point you to an appropriate machine that can handle the job.

The old iron Singer is the most likely candidate for sewing wallet interiors. But, you will have to upgrade the motor to a brand new one drawing twice the power (e.g., 1.5 amps/150 watts) of the one supplied by this seller (0.8 amps). Expect to pay between $75 to $100 for a new motor, with the proper plug and foot controller. The 0.8 amp motor is likely to overheat if you routinely sew leather. This will cause it to smoke out and possibly catch fire. You will also need a Teflon or roller equipped presser foot to keep the leather moving. The rest of the accessories that come with the machine are useless for leather sewing. Finally, buy leather point needles in size 18 and 69 bonded nylon thread. I recommend the more expensive titanium coated needles. Stay away from the plastic body models. There is no such thing as an industrial strength sewing machine. It is a marketing term used by rip off sellers on eBay. It is either a domestic/household OR industrial/commercial sewing machine. There is no in-between unless you go to a portable Sailrite walking foot machine (dual feed only. Marks leather).

Flat bed sewing machines are best for sewing totally flat items. If your saddle components are to be sewn flat, a flat bed gives lots of support to move and turn them without losing balance. However, if any of the parts must be sewn on an upward or downward curve, a cylinder arm is a necessity. Also, if you have to sew directly to the right of a surface the extends below the top layer, a cylinder arm is needed. There are extra heavy duty flat bed machines that use the same hook and bobbins as our 441 type machines. They allow you to sew with up to #415 thread. Just keep in mind that a flat bed will always need to sit inside a cutout in a table. A cylinder arm machine sits above the table to let items curve down as you sew, or to let lower levels pass by on the left side (hardware, formed cases, riggins, stirrups, etc.

Modern cameras, especially those in the newest smartphones, take photos of many megapixels in filesize. these photos can be enlarged and printed in magazines and even on outdoor banners and signs. If you are only taking a picture for use on a web page, try reducing what is referred to as the "resolution." 800x600 pixels is a good size for web use. Forum software will reduce that to about 50% for the on-page display, then render the full size when it is clicked upon. As is, your photo is already at 931 kilobyes and just over 800 x 600 resolutiion. Otherwise, this simple close-up of your patcher shuttle, can occupy several megabytes and render at banner size.

Try contacting Weaver Leather. They are an Adler supplier to leather sewers and are located in Amish country, in the USA

I gotta ask; is the #22 needle you are using a 7x3 round point? I ask because leather point #22 are hard to find in system 794, or 7x4. If you are using a round point system 7x3 in leather, it will grab, overheat and cut the thread. Instead, order a pack of system 794 #23 leather point needles. You will have much better results.

Unless the machine being converted has wide feed dog teeth on the left of the needle hole, I recommend buying the complete roller foot conversion kit. The feeder that come with the kit places a nice wide aggressive tooth dog exactly to the left of the needle and allows you to position the edge of the roller directly next to the needle.

That is the presser foot pressure screw. Remove it, then loosen the screw or screws that secure the presser foot raising block to the bar, raise the bar until the unfolded foot sits flat against the feed dog, then tighten the screw and reinstall the spring.

As for sewing close to hardware with a narrow edge, Cowboy made a set of feet that are inline for the 441 clones. I have that set for my CB4500 and use it for those rare times when i have to sew a sole back onto a boot or shoe, or sew a shaped pouch or case very close to the raised side (with too little room on the right). Contact Bob Kovar, at Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines, at 866-362-7397, for the price and availability.

If you can get a fully operational Campbell Lockstitch machine, with extra bobbins, needles and awls, in good condition, for only $3,000, grab it! These machines list for $6,000 plain Jane.

Here's one source for a roller foot conversion kit. Most industrial sewing machine dealers I know carry these.