Wizcrafts

There are other things that affect the stitch length on all patchers. Check these parts: Presser foot has inadequate pressure (increase spring pressure on top) Presser foot has insufficient lift to allow material to be fed (move sliding block whichever way increases lifting of foot during stitching) Teeth are ground down, meaning the foot can't feed the material (replace foot) The mechanism that causes the feed to occur is worn down (replace the revolving feed mechanism under the head). The jib adjuster on the back of the foot bars is missing or has been damaged (replace sliding stitch length jib)

Mark; A Consew 206RB-2 sews up to 3/8 inch (10mm) of material, with at least #138 and possibly up to #207 thread and has triple feed. I think this will suffice for your webbing and fire-hose projects.

The roller guide swings in and out of the sewing path, along the right side of the work. You set the distance from the edge to stitch line and push the work to the right as you sew. The roller guide keeps the stitch line straight. The round roller helps you to sew inside curves and around outside curves and belt tips. It attaches with a large threaded wheel under the mounting bracket.

Amuckart; Send an email to Bob Kovar, at: information at tolindsewmach dot com. He has the parts lists as well as all replacement parts of most Singer and Adler patchers. Email exchanges take longer, but are the best method to use when you are 14 time zones apart.

Here are a few pointers that may help fix the thread tension problem. First, invert the thread cone so the base is down. Make absolutely sure that the thread goes firmly down into the upper tension disk set. Increase the pressure on the upper tension beehive spring to about half way, for starters. Make sure that the presser foot is lowered all the way down before you start sewing. When it is raised, by either ht lift lever on the back of the head, or the knee lever, all top tension is released. Make certain that the lowered presser foot goes all the way down and sits firmly on top of the material being sewn. Adjust the spring on the bobbin case so that you can pull the bobbin thread smoothly and easily, without tugging on it. The higher the spring tension on the bobbin, the more needs to be applied topside. Don't use a needle that is way too big for the thread. The thread should just pass freely through the eye (left to right). The needle seems to be in correctly. But, I can't decipher the size ot the needle or thread. Are you trying to sew thin material with a big needle and thread? It doesn't usually work out that way. Try a smaller needle and thread when sewing a couple of ounces of material. The last photo shows the top thread flipping off of the upper tension disks. This means zero top tension. Try wrapping the thread around the post on top of the machine to increase the drag before it gets to the tension disks.

Contact Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines,at 866-362-7397. They have every part for every model of Singer 29 series patchers.

Same machine, but I don't recommend sewing machine dealers who aren't members of LWN, if one of our dealers sells the same machine. If you buy the same machine from our dealers you are going to get great customer service after the sale. Industrial sewing machines are not necessarily intuitive to adjust and operate. It helps to be able to pick up the phone and ask the seller questions about its operation, adjustments and available or custom made accessories. You can find more information about the Chandler 406RB-1 here.

Now I know we're not in Kansas anymore! Is that the Coneman?

I sewed a suede lined leather weight lifters' belt yesterday, on a Class 4, using #277 thread, top and bottom., using a type 794 S #25 needle. I used a stitch length of just longer than 5/inch, as requested. The S point has a chisel shape that cuts on the front and back of the needle. That needle and thread combination worked perfectly into the 4 ounce suede lining. The bottom knots are pulled well into the lower layer, even on the reverse stitches. Make sure you get the roller edge guide with your machine!

Stick with it and stay sharp! I'm just needling you.;-)

A Juki LU-563 will work fine for your small parts, interiors and belts. You are advised to test it first. Juki stopped making that series almost a decade ago. Also, sew in forward, then hold down the reverse lever and see if it sews into the previous holes. If not, you'll need to consult with a mechanic who has worked on Jukis. The bobbins in the LU-563 hold about twice as much thread as the standard bobbins in a class 15, or the LU-562. They were good production machines and were used in large and small factories to sew jeans, leather garments and coats. They usually have clutch motors with big pulleys, to get the highest speed possible. Time is money in production. But, continuous high speed operation wears out even the best sewing machines. Check the moving parts carefully for excessive wear. If you buy this Juki, know that is is a manually oiled machine and requires a few drops of oil in every oil hole, prior to use. Use sewing machine Lily oil only. The 563 can tension up to #207 thread, if the top tension beehive spring is the heavy duty one. Otherwise, it will top out at #138 thread, top and bottom. The maximum thickness sewn is 3/8 inch, although the feet lift 1/2 inch with the knee lever. It can handle #69 thread with a #16 or 18 needle for lighter work. The LU-563 also works great with the heavy cotton and polycore thread used to sew hems on jeans.This is size 30 and 40 thread. It is available in a dedicated orange color for jeans, on small and large cones. Needles used are the common walking foot type 135x16 (leather) and 17 (cloth), which are available in most sizes up to #25. If you cannot learn to feather the clutch, you'll need to replace the motor with a servo motor. I use a SewPro 500GR on my flat bed machines. They are available from Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines.This would drive up the cost of the machine to almost $1100 and you can buy a brand new Consew or Chandler walking foot machine, already equipped with a SewPro motor, for almost as much.

The stitcher in this post is a Neels' model 5, a.k.a. CB2500, a.k.a. GA5-1. It is not a walking foot machine. It is a bottom feeder, using the feed dog teeth to move the material. The presser foot is static, The needle only moves vertically. It has a sewing capacity of 7/16 inch, with #346 thread. Lowering the feed dog very much will reduce the ability to feed leather. A slight reduction might help a bit.

Try filling in the feed dog teeth with rubber dipping compound. I did that to one of the feet on my patcher and it still feeds fine, but leaves no marks. Tool and hobby shops sell this dipping compound. I got mine a Joann Fabrics, where the hand tools for beading are sold. If/when the coating wears down just add more to the feeder. Back off the top tension adjuster until it wither is barely catching the threads, or the material starts to lift with the needle. This is the lowest pressure setting you can use effectively. There is an aftermarket roller presser foot for that machine.

Don't do this if you are sewing holsters meant for official duty use or competition shooters. The smaller thread becomes the weakest link in the package. In a life or death struggle for a gun in a holster, the weaker threads could give way.

You can order the missing screw from Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines, in the USA. They have every screw, nut and bolt and part for Singer patchers. Phone info is on the website, as well as an online contact link.

I have a Union Lockstitch needle and awl machine and it happens to be for sale. Needs no further modification to sew over 3/4 inch, with a throat depth of 12 inches. Handles most bonded thread sizes 138 through 554, or 3 to 10 cord linen (run through Lax Wax). Parts are readily available for it, as are needles, awls and bobbins. I used it to sew double leather belts, weight belts, holsters, cases, tool pouches, etc.

TreeReaper; You should remove the thread from the needle before winding a new bobbin, except if you wind it as you sew. When I sew a big run of straps I start a new bobbin while I am sewing the straps. After so many are sewn the bobbin load detector will pop up and disengage the bobbin driver wheel. If I'm not sewing anything and want to load a bobbin, I always de-thread the needle!

I mentioned your request to Bob Kovar, owner of Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines. He told me that he has every nut, bolt, screw and replacement part for just about any Singer or Adler patcher - in stock, in drawers. You could have purchased all of the missing screws and parts from one dealer and been done with your search.

Thanks for the mention, but, I'm just a contributor, not part of the business itself.

You are probably not going to find many parts for your out-of-manufacture patcher in an online search. Your fingers need to do the walking on the phone dial. These dealers have brick and mortar stores that have been in business before the Internet. The parts you are seeking are in bins and racks far from cameras and normal customers view. Call them and ask about the parts you are missing. I have been to Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines and can tell you for a fact there there is an entire 12 foot rack full of Singer patchers of every build. Some are used for parts, others could be for sale.

Read this before you invest in a Boss

Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines and Keystone Sewing both have parts for Singer patchers.

Check out the Cowboy CB2500

Your machine should be able to sew with #207 now. Just plop in a #24 or #25 LR point needle and load the same thread in the bobbin. You will have to loosen the bobbin tension screw somewhat and tighten the top tension disks a bit and the top pressure spring (a lot). A #24 needle is too much hole for #138 thread. I use a #22 or #23 needle for #138 thread. There is no using #277 in that machine, unless you modify it for heavier tensions on top. That means a heavy duty top tension disk beehive spring and a heavy top presser foot pressure spring. If your machine has a spring over the inside foot it needs to be cranked all the way down as well. If the machine sews with #277 at all, it may only do so under 1/4 inch of medium temper veg-tan leather. If you try to sew any thicker that feet will probably not be able to hold down the leather as the needle ascends. The needle will stick inside the leather on the way up. This causes skipped stitches and bent needles. A proper heavy leather stitcher has very dense springs for the feet and top tension disks. All take-up parts are at least double the thickness of those on a Juki LU-563. Also, the bobbins hold much more thread than the large LU Juki bobbin.

Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines sells smooth bottom zipper feet. They also have smooth bottom edging feet, for applying leather edge binding.