Wizcrafts

All you need to do to sew leather with your Tacsew is to slow down the motor (by installing either a variable speed servo motor, or by replacing the motor pulley with a 2 inch pulley and shorter belt), use smooth presser feet, and change to leather point needles. Using pre-lubricated thread will help cool the needle and reduce grabbing on dense leather. Do not try to exceed 3/8 inch of leather, or use thread larger than #207. It is best for the machine to stick with #69 through #138 bonded nylon thread. The denser the leather, the slower you must sew. While vests and chaps can be sewn at 20 stitches per second, an 8 ounce belt would have to be slowed down to about 10 per second, maximum speed. A double leather belt, 1/4 inch thick, might grab the needle at that speed, so it would be best sewn at no more than 5 stitches per second (~ one inch). Hold back the threads when you start sewing to avoid birds nests that will jam the bobbin and throw the machine out of time.

A couple of things that cause loss of stitching are a bent, broken, or missing thread check spring (in needle bar, just above the needle mounting block), loose or incorrectly positioned shuttle drive gear, a broken top of a needle inside the needle mount, or incorrect threading path, or the needle inserted backwards.

You won't hurt the machine as long as limit the leather to soft to medium temper, about 3/16" maximum, with #69 bonded nylon thread and a #18 leather point needle. You will need to change the presser foot to either a Teflon foot, or a foot with little rollers inside, or the leather may drag on the foot. You will also need to lower the top pressure adjuster for more pressure to hold down the leather. Set the stitch length to the maximum, which should be close to 5 or 6 stitches per inch. Some old Singer machines cannot sew more than 7 to the inch, which is not so good for leather. Tiny stitches can cut right through soft or dry leather. By contrast, modern walking foot sewing machines can sew 4 to the inch, into 3/8 inch of medium leather, using a #23 or #24 needle and #138 to #207 thread. Most have large bobbins that hold almost double the amount of thread as the old 27. When you decide that it's time to move up to a more serious machine, get back in touch with us. PS: That machine will not be on eBay.

I use a #19 or #20 needle for #92 thread. I use a #22 to #23 needle with #138 thread. You would need a #24 needle for #207 thread.

I got a drop down roller edage guide at Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines (866-362-7397). It has two holes on a mounting plate that must be fastened to the back of the head of your machine. My head had to be drilled and tapped for two metric screws, but you could use any thread pitch, as long as it is number 10 or 12. The screws must not protrude so far as to touch any moving parts inside the head.

You're gonna be like a kid in a candy store when you get your machine and set it up.

Your machine might be able to feed waxed thread, if the needle is oversize. The wax tends to come off along the way to and through the eye of the needle. It could gum up the works. I shouldn't have mentioned it at all in this topic. You're better off sticking to bonded nylon. I used to use Linhanyl thread, until it ceased being imported into the USA. I now buy Cowboy pre-lubricated bonded nylon thread, available from Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines. My friend for whom I sew buys only Weaver pre-lubricated bonded nylon thread.

Your machine uses system 7x3 or 794 needles. For sewing wallets and purses you will probably use #92 bonded nylon thread. This calls for a #19 needle; #20 tops. Belts will probably be sewn with #138 bonded nylon thread, using a #22 needle; #23 tops. Tack, reins, collars, bridles, common holsters, knife and tool sheaths should be sewn with #277 bonded nylon or bonded polyester thread, using a #25 needle. Go up one needle size when sewing Biothane. Duty holsters are usually sewn with #346 bonded nylon, or 6 cord linen thread (run through a liquid wax), using a #26 to #27 needle. If you go into production, buy two spools of thread in each size and color you will be using. One is for the top, the other is for reloading spare bobbins as you sew. Notes: Smaller needle sizes are typically only available in standard round point. This encompasses sizes 18 through 22. The remaining sizes are available in either round, or a variety of leather points, with S being the most popular. It lays down a straight stitch that sits tightly against or even into the top grain. Common left twist leatherpoint needles produce a zig-zag pattern. Triangle points produce a straight line, but leave marks on the sides, However, they fill in the holes more than other leather points. I hope this helps.

Why haven't you already ordered your needles and thread from Steve? They could ship with the machine, saving you postage and probably a higher price from someone else. On the other hand, if he is out of stock, you can get your needles and thread from Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines.

You are going to need two machines to sew everything you described. Get a 441 clone, with a flat table attachment and a foot treadle operated patcher. Patchers have universal feed and can sew up the arm, or any direction. Although they are light duty machines, they will patch boots, vests, jackets, garment sleeves and legs, install zippers and repair purse interiors and do other small odd jobs. Between these two machines and some accessory feet for the 441, you can sew almost any leather project. FYI: I use a patcher for odd jobs, as well as a 16.5" arm 441, a walking foot machine, a straight stitch flat feed machine, a huge harness sttitcher, a serger, an electronic machine and two very old Singer iron machines. Each one does something different and is adjusted to do so.

It's hard to see the position of the pickup point with the needle down, due to poor focus. So, check it yourself. Rotate the handwheel towards you (the proper direction is counterclockwise) until the needle goes all the way down, then makes a slight upwards motion, then stop. Look at the pickup point on the bobbin case. It should just be crossing the needle, over the eye. As you continue rotating the wheel the needle will lift and the shuttle should revolve past the needle and about halfway around. Then, it revolves backwards until it stops about 1/4 inch behind the needle channel. If this defines what you see, the needle and shuttle are in time. If the shuttle reaches the needle to soon or too late, use a wide flatblade screwdriver through a hole on the front face of the base of the machine to turn the screw that adjusts the position of the shuttle. You'll need to rotate the wheel until the screw lines up with the hole in the base. There isn't a lot of range of adjustment. You haven't said anything about the condition of the thread check spring on the needlebar. It resides in a channel just above the needle mounting plate. The bottom of that spring is shaped like a paddle. If it is bent, broken or missing, skipped stitches ensue.

You are probably going to have to look for old iron at that price point. Look into auctions at harness shops for an old fix-er-up or traded in machine. Here is what you need to look for to sew holsters and slings: Minimum clearance under the foot with foot or knee lever: 5/8 inch (more is better) Large bobbin: Standard walking foot type M; Juki type LU bobbin; Juki 441 bobbin Triple feed walking foot with a smooth feed dog. Or, no feed dog, but needle feed with jump foot Very thick take-up parts, at least double those on industrial machines Very heavy tensioning spring, to bring up thick thread in multiple layers of veg-tan leather Needle sizes ranging from 22 through 26, handling thread sizes 138 through 346 1/2 to 3/4 horsepower servo motor with a speed reducer, mounted under a pedestal table. There are a very few flat bed machines meeting these specs. But, there are many 441 clones exceeding the lift spec. I have a Cowboy CB4500 cylinder arm machine that sews 7/8 inch, with up to #415 thread, using a #27 needle. In contrast, my modified National flat bed walking foot machine sews 7/16 inch, with up to #207 thread, using a #24 needle. It will take a #25 needle, but cannot hold down the leather as the needle ascends after picking up the bobbin thread.

Probably not. This is a very old Singer, meant to sew about 5/16" with #92 thread or less. It was meant for sewing gloves and soft shoes. Further, it has a snap foot and bottom feed, which is not a good system for either slings or holsters. I had two snap foot Singer machines and neither did a good job of feeding slick (polished), or thick leather.

Please define what you consider "inexpensive." Next, state the size of thread you want to use mot of the time and the probable thickness you intend to sew. I can sew rifle slings all day on my flat bed walking foot machine, using #138 thread. Holsters are another story. A properly sewn serious use holster has #277 thread or even #346. No standard upholstery grade machine can properly handle or tension those thread sizes. You'll need a machine like Busted described (a.k.a: 441 clone, like Cowboy, Cobra and Techsew), or a Union Lockstitch needle and awl machine, like I use.

The best machine is the one with the least slack in the feed and shuttle mechanisms. So much depends on tight clearances, especially in the ring in which the foot revolves. If the puck shaped actuator is worn down, the machine won't produce long stitches at any thickness. Aside from the wear factor, They are both short arm patchers with small bobbins and are best suited to #69 bonded nylon thread. The maximum thickness that can be sewn is about 1/4 inch. The stitch length diminishes with thickness, so a machine that sews 5 to the inch at 6 ounces may only yield 7 to the inch at 1/4 inch of leather. A worn machine may not even sew 7 to the inch into thin leather. I would recommend taking some pieces of 8 ounce leather with you and see if one machine gives longer stitches at 1/4 inch. Then make sure it actually sews a proper stitch. Some old Singer patchers have missing, broken or bent thread check springs and skip stitches no matter what else you do. I don't know what kind of leather projects you anticipate sewing with these machines. Don't expect them to sew holsters, or rifle slings. They are made for soft to medium leather, from 4 ounces up to 16 ounces total. They are meant for repairing shoes, boots, and for sewing patches onto garments.

Take some close-up photos of the needle and the uncovered bobbin inside the shuttle, with the needle down at bottom dead center. While the needlebar is down, shine a flashlight up from the bottom and look for a paddle shaped spring just above the needle mounting plate. This spring is responsible for keeping a little tension on the thread as the needle moves down, then ascends. This is what forms the loop. If that spring is bent, broken or missing, skipped stitches will be the norm.

I like that huge flywheel on the back of the machine. Coupled with the speed reducer, it should be able to sew through sole leather. Unless the walking foot mechanism has been modified, the maximum clearance under the foot when sewing is 3/8 inch. You can probably get away with #207 on top and #138 in the bobbin, using a #23 needle. For 207 in the bobbin, try a #24 needle. It all depends on how strong the top tensioner beehive spring is. It's too bad about the teeth on the presser feet. Check with Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines to see if smooth feet even exist for it. I've never seen any.

Bob Kovar might be able to help you with parts. Give him a call at 866-362-7397. He had a Gritzner or Frobana in the shop when I was there two months ago.

That's a sole stitcher, for boots on the ground. I think you'll get better stitches with bonded polyester or waxed linen. Nylon is stiffer and tougher to pull up than polyester. Waxed linen is the easiest to pull into the holes. If you must use nylon thread, try moving up one awl size.

Jesse; You have the twist backwards. Most lockstitch machines do use left twist thread. If you try to sew with RT thread on most lockstitch machines, the thread will begin to unravel. Double needle lockstitch machines are the exception, where the bobbin running in reverse uses RT thread. Most sole stitchers do better with right twist thread, run through a liquid wax pot. This applies to your Gritzner/Frobana as well.

I got this right wrapped toe foot from Bob Kovar. He may have another one laying around. It isn't a full wrap around like I described, but the front has the flap facing inside, in front of the inner foot.

I always use the best presser foot for the job. Sometimes that means using only a left or right toe foot. If none of the feet can do the job, find a local machine shop and have some feet custom milled. In your case, if the right toe doesn't grab the leather on the right enough to securely feed the work, a custom made wrap-around right toe foot will do the trick. I would need to cover the front and back inline with the inside foot, like a reverse capital letter C in a digital readout font.

Oil all moving parts and oil holes. The roll itself doesn't need oiling, but the bearings on the sides of its axle do. I used to have two skivers and used 20 weight oil on them.

A Singer patcher is designed to use series 29x3 and 29x4 needles.

The machine is a hundred years old and is probably shot Did you replace the thread check paddle spring in the needle bar? A worn, loose or broken spring causes skipped stitches. Revolve the top throat plate sideways and remove the bobbin case. See how much rotational slack there is in the gears driving the shuttle. If there is excessive slack, the screw that secures the little pinion gear to the shuttle may be loose. You can access this tiny set screw by rotating the machine until the screw hole is visible through a cutout in the back side of the nose of the arm. Once the screw lines up with that hole you can insert a jewelers' screwdriver and try to tighten it up. It's possible that the rack gears under the arm have teeth chipped off, or it has jumped, or been mis-adjusted so that the shuttle gear is out of its normal rotational range. This might explain it not positioning the point behind the needle. The needle sitting too low could be caused by a broken needle shank stuck high up inside the needle mounting bracket. An overtightened securing screw can break a brittle needle at the point above the screw.