Wizcrafts

My new Cowboy CB4500 occupies 68 x 104 CM of floor space. It is a stand-up to operate machine. Total weight is about 350 pounds. The machine base is on casters that can be locked or left movable.

I bought mine a month ago for $120, for everything (machine, motor and table, needles, thread, bobbins).

Investigate all available options when it comes to buying a sewing machine that really sews the kind of leather most leathercrafters want to assemble. I too was looking for a portable solution, but soon realized that is wasn't going to happen. I have had and still have a Singer 29 Patcher. It is a fine machine that sews with up to #138 thread, but only into a little over 6 mm (about 5/16 inch). Typical walking foot machines will sew through 3/8 inch (10 mm), but again, are not good at tensioning thread thicker than #207 (T 210). The real problem with these and all flat feed industrial and so-called "industrial strength" home and sail makers' machines is the metal in the pressure, take-up and tensioning system is too light weight to handle the stress of penetrating, holding down and pulling thick thread up through thick or dense leather. I have had all metal industrial machines that will not hold down 1/4 inch of veg-tan leather, even with the top tension adjuster all the way down. The metal parts on portable walking foot machines are a joke. Trying to sew a holster will probably cause the critical moving levers to bend. They are not designed to take the stress of sewing hard leather. A real leather sewing machine will have very thick hardened steel parts in the take-up, needle bar and presser bar parts. Its springs for tensioning the presser foot, top thread tension disks and bobbin case tension will be about twice the thickness and strength of standard industrial springs, which are already twice that of home sewing machines. The available needle sizes for various machines plays a part in choosing a leather sewing machine. A typical walking foot machine uses a system 135x16 or 135x17 needle, in sizes up to 200 (Singer size 25). These needles are only able to sew through a little more than 10 to 11 mm of anything. The alternating outside foot may only be able to lift up high enough to clear 10 mm of work, before the needle bar hits it on the down stroke. Real leather sewing machines use a much longer needle system, like types 328 (long) or 794 (longer). A machine that uses a 794 (also 7x3) needle type can sew over 3/4 inch (20 mm+), depending on how the machine is set up. The machines using these needles have extremely thick moving parts and springs. The cases are massive as are the flywheels. Sewing with #415 thread is not uncommon with these machines. Their needles are available in sizes up to #28 or #30; the size of the nails used to hold wooden porches together. Just some thoughts for you to keep in mind before you invest in a sewing machine based upon the seller's hype.

You mean a swing-away roller edge guide like this? I combined a swing-away flat guide set with an individual roller edge guide. The screw post needed to be brazed on the bottom of the plate, to keep it from turning when I use pliers to tighten down the roller guide. Bob Kovar sells them already customized like this. 866-362-7397

Keep looking for a place where you can adjust the sideways position of the needle bar. You can't use the machine with the needle hitting the foot or throat plate hole. Try rotating the needle bar and see if it moves the needle's position at all. The bar might be warped, or the bearing on the bottom worn, or an adjuster screw set improperly. Are you using the proper needle type? is it a loose fit or tight fit inside the bar? If it is loose and able to wiggle, the needle is the wrong "system" for that machine. The proper needle system should just slide into the bottom of the needle bar and line up directly with the holes.

KND; Please get some other thread and see if it fixes the problems. Thread can vary, spool to spool, batch to batch, color to color.

A standard industrial sewing machine table has a 7" x 19" cutout. The knee lever mounts in a common general area. The oil pans have a cutout for the knee lever to operate. If your machine will drop into a 7" x 19" cutout, with hinges lining up with the pins on the table and the rubber stoppers in the corners catch the edges of the machine, you're good to go. If not, you'll need to either brace the hole in the table with solid wooden supports, or route out a larger space, to match the base of the machine.

It sounds like the same problem another member just had: a loose flywheel. Tighten up the two screws that secure the wheel to its shaft. Then tighten the pulley and motor belts a little more. It is possible that the bison skin is stressing the mechanism somewhat. But, if the wheel it fully tightened and the belts don't slip, the motor should force the needle to penetrate all layers. Just yesterday, I sewed through1/8 inch of plastic taped to 12 ounces of Latigo with a Cobra 4, using a #25 needle. Had to tighten the upper belt by lowering the pulley all the way.

With the hand wheel properly tightened, is everything now moving in sync? Check the other screws on moving parts you can see. Make sure screws are not loose. But, make sure moving parts are not binding. Let's work on the top thread problems. Grab a kitchen funnel, or go to an auto parts store and buy an oil funnel, which is just slightly bigger on the bottom than the spool of thread is on top. Make the spool into Tin Man,with the thread feeding out the long narrow spout of the funnel. Feed it up, through the thread guide hole and pull the thread. See if it unwinds from the spool, feeding through the tornado of the funnel spout. If so, let's continue wit the Tin Man concept. If not, remove the cap and we'll try something else. Whether the funnel trick helps or not, feed the top thread from the hole in the top guide bar through the top hole in the post on top of your machine. twist the thread against the direction of any coils, to loosen it as much as possible. Now, thread the rest of the way as shown in the instructions. Choose the correct needle and thread combination for the leather thickness and hardness you want to sew. That might be a #25 or #26 needle for #277 thread, top and bottom, depending on the hardness of the leather. Don't try sewing thick nylon thread into thin leather. This requires a different, softer type of thick thread that you are using. Using a larger needle than required sometimes makes it harder to balance the position of the knots than if a smaller needle is used. Too small of a needle may cause the knots to stay on or near the bottom no matter how hard the top pulls. Try different size needles with your thread and stick with the ones giving the best, repeatable results. Make sure that the bobbin spring presents smooth friction for the bobbin thread and make sure the bobbin is loaded to feed backwards to the slot in the case. Remember what I told you last night about checking the bobbin for any starting thread that may be looped out of the little hole and around the top of the bobbin disk. These leftover threads are grabbed by the spring inside the bobbin case and cause tension variations. Make sure the top thread is not twisting around anything it should be passing through. Set the tension adjustment around the middle of the top disk adjuster. Sew a few inches and see what you get. Adjust the top adjuster for the best consistent result. Hints: If both top and bottom stitches are loose, tighten both top and bottom spring tensions. If both are dug into the leather too far, loosen both tensions. If the knots are all on the bottom, tighten the top tension. If the knots are all on top, loosen the top tension. If the knots are all over the place, tighten the bobbin case spring and try again to balance the thread. Finally, change to a different brand of thread and try again. If you can't do that, spray the spool with silicon, or place it into a can of pure mineral or sewing machine oil for a few minutes. Dry off the excess lube and try using your lubed thread. If this helps, consider buying only pre-lubricated thread (e.g.: http://www.tolindsew...com/thread.html). Another thing that just came to me: Make sure your thread doesn't say RT, or right twist! Our single needle sewing machines require left twist, also known as LT, or Z twist.

Cajun; Why don't you start a new topic requesting help from other Cobra owners? Somebody may have experienced the same problem and knows how to fix it. I sew with a Cobra Class 4 at work and am responsible for adjusting and maintaining it. I may be able to help you get yours working right.

Pull the thread out of the machine, including the bobbin thread. Close the empty bobbin case. Place the same thickness of leather under the feet and try hand or slow machine sewing without thread. Does the machine hang as the take-up lever is rising? Does the needle stop while the hand wheel turns? If so, try tightening the screws that secure the wheel to its shaft! It could be that simple.

I'm starting to dwell on the idea of somehow mounting a funnel over a spool of thread and feeding the thread through it to the loop or hole in the stand.

I think you are going to want to move down to #92 or 138 thread for those thin projects. Here's what you need to bet and the changes to make. 2 spools of each color bonded nylon thread you want to use in sizes 92 and 138. Eight ounce spools will do. A pack of leather point needles (system 794-LL) in sizes 19 and 22, or 20 and 23. another half dozen or more bobbins. Tightly wind bobbins with the #92 and #138 thread, in various colors, and label them or hang them on size-labeled hooks. After inserting a bobbin with #92 or 138 thread, tighten the bobbin spring to maintain some tension on the thread. The setting for #277 will be totally loose with #92, and almost totally loose with #138. Back off the top tension disk setting It might be necessary to lighten up the action on the check spring, on the bottom tensioner. Run some test strips and fine tune the tensions on the bobbin case and the top tensioner. It might be necessary to feed the top thread straight through the top hole in the machine mounted thread guide post, without wrapping it around and out a second hole. Two wrapped holes may present too much resistance and override the tensioner disks. I use these tips myself when sewing everything from garments to saddle bags, to belts to rifle slings. Using a #22 needle with #138 thread produces a tighter knot in thin leathers. Using a #23 needle makes it easier to position the knots higher in thick leather, with #138 thread. Also, for thin leather projects, back off the presser foot pressure adjustment. It may need to go almost all the way out for very soft or thin work.

First of all, although you haven't said what model your Cobra is, I want to reassure you that the Cobra 441 clones are fully capable of sewing balanced stitches in leather thicknesses from under 6 ounces to over 3/4 inch. I regularly sew with a Cobra Class 4, so I will try to help you with some suggestions. The 441 clones are not light duty sewing machines. They need a certain amount of top and bottom tension and pressure to operate properly. An overly tight bobbin is as counterproductive as one that has no tension at all. Set a modicum of tension on the bobbin spring for the thread you are using. Not too tight, not too loose. It should pull out smoothly, without any hiccups. Hiccups can be caused by leaving a piece of the tied down starting thread looped around the hole it goes through and the top of that side of the bobbin. Cut off any thread that protrudes from the holes in the end disks of the bobbins. Thread the bobbins to feed backwards in the case. With the bobbin case open, rotated backwards so the opening is facing back towards the front, hold the wound bobbin so that the thread feeds off the top towards the back of the machine. Place the bobbin in the case and feed the thread through the slot and snap it securely into the tension spring. Make sure the bobbin thread feeds under its spring and out the mouth end, then snap the bobbin case shut. Pull on the thread that protrudes (4 to 6 inches) and make sure the tension has not changed. Consult the instruction DVD to ensure you are threading the top thread as per Steve's instructions. Before you feed the thread through the needle's eye, pull on it to make sure it is under tension from the top disks. Adjust the spring tension as needed to get a strong amount of resistance, while still being able to pull the thread a bit. Lift the presser foot release lever with the foot pedal and see if the thread pulls easily. Let go of the foot lifter. Now lift the hand presser lifter on the back and see if the top tension has been released at all. I find that the hand lifter only releases a little top tension, whereas the foot lifter lets it go almost completely. The hand or foot lifters, when lifted, should force the top disks apart (with a little lever that moves from the bottom of the disks) to release thread tension. Then, when you release the lifter, the lever that splits the disks must drop down to allow the disks to close and pressure to be applied, as set by the finger adjuster nut. If this lever is sticking in the disks, the tension may not be properly applied to the thread. If the check spring has too much tension, it can cause additional drag on the top thread. The spring has two possible adjustments. Once is the movable stopper plate under it, which sets how long the top thread is kept taut during the down stroke.This is set by the single flat head screw that sits inside the slot in the stopper plate. This is a trial and error adjustment. You don't want it to stop short, nor all the way down, in most cases. set it somewhere in between. If the spring has a LOT of tension, reduce it by loosening the nut on the back of the face plate where the bottom disk shaft is mounted. With the nut loose, insert a small flat bade screw driver into the split shaft and turn it whichever way loosens the spring action. Loosen the spring a little then tighten down the locking nut. Make sure you thread through the needle from left to right, with the cutout scarf facing the dead-right side. If you are using a #25 needle, it works best with #V207 or T210 thread, top and bottom. It will feed #277 on top, but 207 on the bottom is easier to pull up into the leather. If the leather is soft temper, you may be able to get away with a #25 needle and #277 thread, top and bottom. For #138 thread, I use #23 leather point needles. Yes, a 21 or 22 works, but the #23 seems to sew more reliably. Use system 794 Schmetz needles if possible. Set the top pressure spring adjuster so it sticks out the top between 1 and 1.5 inches. Before you start sewing, hold the top and bottom threads back hard. Sew in reverse a couple stitches, then throw the lever to forward and cross over the starting threads. Let go of the threads and sew slowly for a few inches. Lift the foot lifter and remove the leather. Check the position of the knots. If you see the top thread knots on the bottom, increase the top tension adjuster. If the knots are on top, reduce the top tension. If the stitches look decent, sew a longer run of stitches, using your edge guide. As your machine is sewing, look up at the top thread and see if it is winding around anything and causing knots to form. Also, see if it is trying to twist out of the top tension disks. I have actually seen a knot forming as the top thread twists after going through the post on top of the machine. When that happens, try changing how you feed it through that post. Twisted thread causes tension problems. It can even twist right out of the top tension disks! Some thread is just plain shitty. If you have really springy thread, remove it and try another brand, or another spool. Thread can vary from run to run. If the thread is feeding properly, without kinking or knotting, and without popping out of the center of the top tension or bottom tensions disks, and the bobbin thread is feeding evenly, with a bit of resistance, using the proper needle size for the top and bottom thread, your stitches should all fall into the same vertical position in the leather. Failure to do so indicates that there is either a problem with the thread or the machine needs adjusted. Sometimes a screw may shake loose and affect the timing or repeatability of good stitching. Please rule out everything else before you assume that the machine needs to be adjusted beyond the tension settings I mentioned. I will watch for your replies tomorrow morning, or night. I'll be out all afternoon. If you get a chance, photograph how you are threading the top thread, from the spools, all the way to the needle.

Lower the needle bar itself by the amount necessary to place a properly installed needle at the correct height on the upstroke, to place the eye below the pickup point. If you have already lowered the needle inside the bar, you may need to move the bar down at least 3 mm. That should position the needle's eye below the hook as it passes the cutout scarf.

The eye of your needle must be below the hook point, on the way up. Otherwise, how can it pick up the loop? It looks to me as though the needle you identify as the Schmetz is too short. It's eye is above the hook. It is not the same system of needle as the GB, or it would have the same length. I think you need to lower the GB needle bar 1 millimeter or two and see if that fixes the skipping stitches. You can test this by just clamping the needle in so it sits lower in the needle bar hole. If you lower the needle by a millimeter and that fixes the skipping, then loosen the screw in the face of the head which clamps the needle bar in place and lower it by that amount. Then clamp it tight. Then, reposition the needle all the way up in the needle hole, set it tight and try sewing. Your goal is to have the needle's eye go below the hook position, then rise up and form a loop. The hook should pass above the eye, inside the cutout area, to grab that loop, but not touch the needle in the process. If that ring gear is missing teeth, replace it.

Drognan; See what kind of deal you can find on a Juki LU-1508. It is their flagship flatbed walking foot model. They usually list for almost twice to price of the 1541 models. Plus, if you get one that was made recently, in Japan, it may even glow in the dark, helping you sew at night!

Hopefully, you can buy this machine for no more than $100, considering that it will cost another 2 or 3 hundred to fix it up in a shop.

I still struggle on my Union Lockstitch machine, which has a 12" space on the right, when I sew weight belts, gun belts or large holsters. It takes a lot of room to fold up a double leather belt or strap for fancy fishtail stitching. Actually, a 25 inch arm is best for such work.

That is the most beat up and rusted out Singer 111w102 I have ever seen. Yes, it will sew leather. No, it is not worth $150, unless you plan on restoring it yourself, as a labor of love. Machines that are so badly rusted on the outside are usually as bad inside. If that is the case, you will be replacing rods, cranks, gears, shafts, shuttle, and who knows what else. Or, you may get lucky and it is only external surface rust. It's a crap shoot. This particular sub-class of the 111 has bottom feed only. Most upholstery shops and leather workers use walking foot, triple feed machines only. This is not such a machine. It also lacks reverse, so you'll have to either tie off the threads, or spin the work around 180 to back-tack. The stitch length can only be changed by pushing down a button on the body and rotating the hand-wheel one way or the other, then releasing that button. It appears to be setup with #22 needles and #138 thread. I can use a bigger needle and one size larger thread, depending on the condition of the tensioners. You should go and test the machine before offering any money at all. Seeing and hearing it operate will tell you whether it is worth anything at all.

Do not assume that all of your sewing will be along the edges only. One day someone will want a Western holster and as you stitch around the 22 inches of body and back flap, you'll appreciate the 16.5 inch arm. Or, perhaps you'll sew a pistol belt with gunfighter stitching, like I do. You'll need all the room on the right side that you can get.

This happened to me on my previous Singer 29-4 patcher. The thread was getting pulled under the shuttle plate, rather than under the bobbin case. The eye of the needle was too low. I solved the problem by substituting shorter industrial needles for the 29x3 and 29x4 that I bought for the machine. Bob Kovar later suggested that perhaps a needle had broken off just above the needle locking screw (after being overtightened) and was jammed inside the needle mounting hole - above the lock screw. I don't have that machine anymore to check it. But, you could take off the needle mounting tab, unscrew the needle locking screw, remove the needle and tap it on a hard surface. Maybe, just maybe, a broken top of a needle will fall out and your needles will have the correct length. Otherwise, the slop in the bobbin drive gears may the the culprit. Other things to try: Move the needle mount closer to the right of the hole. Loosen the screw above the needle locking screw and push the mount to the right, then tighten that screw. Lower the needle bar all the way, then shine a flashlight up it on the outside. Look for a paddle shaped spring above the needle mounting bracket. If that paddle is broken, of twisted, or no longer making direct contact with the thread, it will cause skipped stitches. Change the needle Make sure the needle is threaded from left to right.

Paedalus I would go for the Claes cylinder arm machine. It will server you best of all those machines. It is bottom feed only, but look at how well it sews hard and thick leather! It can probably be fitted with needles ranging from #140 up to #250 (metric), allowing you to sew with US thread numbers 138 through 415. The big machine is not like a Union Lockstitch, but is similar to a Puritan chainstitch machine. Chainstitch machines are used to sew luggage, golf bags, briefcases and hiking boots. They make a thread chain on the bottom of the material, which is not pleasant to look at. That's why they are only used where the bottom thread is not normally seen. The Junker And Ruh is a sole stitching machine only.

I wuz just funnin' with ya ;-)