Wizcrafts

Mike; You could disassemble the head from the machine, along with the parts inside the head, then drill a hole, about 5/32 inches diameter, in the front of the head, about 2 inches up from the bottom, then tap it to take a 10-32 thumbscrew. Tighten the screw to lock the revolving foot, or loosen it to rotate the foot. Singer parts dealers have these screws. A competent industrial sewing machine dealer can do the job for you, if you send the head to them.

The shredding of the thread might be from heat from friction. Slow the machine down! Get a 2 to 2.5 inch motor pulley and a shorter v-belt to match the difference in diameter from the original pulley. Or, replace the motor with a servo motor, like the one I recommended in my first reply. I use that motor and am able to easily control the speed, from way under 1 stitch per second to about 10 or 12 stitches per second. Shredding is also caused by using too small of a needle for the thread and work being sewn. Try moving up a size. Perhaps a leather point needle will penetrate the package with less friction. Or, it could be caused by the timing being slightly off. You should not move the needle down in its housing, unless you are checking for timing problems. If the timing is out and lowering the needle fixes the skipped stitches, then the needle bar needs to be lowered that amount. Or, the position of the pick-up point on the hook needs to be changed to place it inside the cutout - above the eye, as it begins to ascend and form a loop. Perhaps you will get better results with pre-lubricated thread. Use #138 bonded nylon, as that is the largest size your machine can efficiently sew with. You should use a #23 needle with #138 thread on top and in the bobbin. You might be able to sew with #207 on top and #138 on the bottom, with a #25 needle, but you already are experiencing heat related needle and thread problems. The only benefit of smoking hot needles is that the nylon thread lockstitch knots will tend to fuse together. I'm sure you can find an industrial sewing machine dealer somewhere within driving distance.Otherwise, check with our member dealers, like Bob at Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines, or Steve at Leather Machine Company (Cobra), which is in Highland, California. They both have banner ads on top of these pages, with toll free phone numbers.

HUH? I thought you wanted to slow down the machine, not speed it up! A standard pulley on industrial walking foot machines ranges from 2 to 4 inches in diameter. I doubt that there is enough clearance under the table to mount a 10 pulley on the motor, but, if you did, you would double or triple the existing speed! What you should do is install a 2 inch pulley on the motor, with a shorter v-belt to keep the motor adjuster in its mid-range. If the original pulley was 4 inches, this will cut the speed in half, at all floor pedal positions. Alternately, you could just replace the clutch motor with a small servo motor, like the SewPro 500GR, which has a full range of speeds from deathly slow to medium fast. This motor is sold at Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines.

Ditto what Art told you. If you cannot change motors, at least buy a 2 inch pulley and a shorter v-belt that matches the difference in length to center the adjuster bolt. The attachment is from Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines. It was originally a flat plate edge guide. I added on a roller edge guide that slides on the single threaded rod in the body of the attachment. I found it necessary to braze mine on the bottom of the screw, to keep it from turning when I hefted down the securing thumb screw. This isn't a problem if you only use the flat plate guide; just the roller. The left toe foot set is a zipper foot set. I have a dozen different presser feet for this machine. All are commercially available wherever industrial sewing machines are sold, including Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines (Bob Kovar). Their phone number is 866-362-7397.

My harness stitcher has 12 inches of clearance to the right of the needle bar and I often have to turn leather up on the right side to spin it around. I strongly recommend saving until you can afford a 16.5 inch arm machine. Some people are even buying the 25 inch arm machines.

LOL I use nylon most of the time. I mostly use #277 bonded nylon, for holsters, gun belts, double leather belts, etc. I have some #346 in bonded polyester, but rarely use it anymore. It was more expensive and is a little less stiff. I bought it as a substitute for waxed linen thread, for my Union Lockstitch monster machine.

I bought a pound of pre-lubricated Cowboy brand, bonded nylon thread for $15, plus postage, from Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines. I posted this information in my earlier reply to you. If you prefer to call them on the phone, the toll free number is 866-362-7397.

I buy my needles and thread from Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines. Their thread page is here. It is available in sizes #138, #207, #277 and #346,at $15 for 1 pound spools, in 5 standard colors. You can call 866-362-7397 for pricing on their needles and bobbins. They have system 794 needles in stock.

Darren; Can you narrow down the part or parts that are causing the timing problem with the shuttles? If it is poor casting or machining, could you replace those parts with locally machined or cast parts? It would increase the cost a bit, but would also be a plus for local buyers to know there is reliable Aussie content in them.

Darren, of the website: Anne Bonnys Locker, down under, is importing a Vietnamese type of rotating head patching machine. The latest version is able to use heavy thread and larger needles than other patchers on the market. Look for posts by Anne Bonnys Locker on this forum. Aside from that machine, all other rotating head machines are basically shoe patchers.

Adler 30-1, 30-7, 30-70, Cowboy 2970 and others.

Yes, and with ballistic nylon and Biothane. You may need to use a size larger needle to maintain a suitable exit hole in these materials, which tend to self-heal. When (not if) you get your 441 machine, be sure to order needles in one size above and below your expected regular size, based on the primary thread size you will be using. For leather, use leather point needles.

When you say you want a machine for heavy leather work, by my definition, you have already eliminated 90% of the industrial sewing machines on the market. I define heavy leather sewing as anything over 3/8 inch in thickness, or any thickness using #277 or larger thread.. Thus, a 1/4" thick double bridle leather belt, edge and fishtail sewn with #277 thread, requires a heavy duty leather stitcher. To me, a leather stitcher is not the same thing as a sewing machine that sews leather. The Adler 205-370 and Juki TSC441 are the models upon which the modern day 441 clones are based. Either of those machines can pound through about 19 mm of hard leather, with #346 thread, using a #27 needle, of system 794. The modern 441 clones have improved on those specs and can now sew up to 7/8 inch, with a #28 needle and #415 thread. The only other heavy leather machines qualified to sew that thick, with very heavy thread, are the Union Lockstitch and Campbell Lockstitch needle and awl machines. These machines sew through wood and even pennies!

No, it would definitely NOT be realistic to expect that on Leatherworker.net. Not to say it couldn't happen; it's just not likely. Most of our members are only sewing leather, especially heavy leather, with thick thread. You can post it for sale in our Marketplace section and maybe somebody who repairs or makes cloth garments will want it. Your Singer 120U is a garment maker's machine. It might be of use to a local dry cleaner, or tailor shop. Those businesses like high speed, self-oiling, drop feed machines that can sew with #40 or #50 cotton or polycore thread, or "invisible" thread. Upholsters do not like drop feed machines, unless they also do fine work, like sewing on lace appliques. Leather workers prefer walking foot machines that can handle at the very least, #138 bonded nylon thread. Holster and heavy strap makers need a machine that can sew up to or over 3/4 inch, using #346 thread, or thicker. These machines are geared down to sew at the rate of 1 to 3 stitches per second. Your Singer 120U is probably setup to sew at somewhere between 30 to 60 stitches per second. In order to get the best price for that drop feed machine you must market it to the right audience. You can try selling it on eBay, with local pickup as the option.

That Singer is strictly a garment sewing machine, meant for factory use. It sews fast on purpose. It is designed to tension cotton or polycore thread in the light weights used in garments, like shirts and pants. Due to its using a short needle stroke system, it cannot sew thick stacks of material. This machine will not properly sew veg-tan leather with #138 thread, or heavier. You will be limited to using #69 bonded nylon, top and bottom. There are very few improvements you can make to that machine. To slow it down requires a replacement servo motor. To feed veg-tan leather you will need to convert it into a roller foot machine. Still, it won't sew 18 ounces of leather, even with #69 thread. As for a walking foot machine, if you mean an upholstery grade machine for 20 ounce veg-tan holsters, maybe, maybe not. It depends on what machine and how new it is and if it can tension heavy thread. Most walking foot machines max out at #138 thread. However, it is possible to use up to #207 on top and 138 in the bobbin. These machines are limited to sewing no more than 3/8 inch thickness. If you can sell the 120U on Craigslist, or a local classifieds, do so. Save your money and buy a "441" clone, like those made by Cowboy or Cobra, with a 9 or 16.5 inch arm and flat table attachment. They easily sew 3/4 inch, with up to #415 thread. And, these machine come with a servo motor and a speed reducer pulley between the motor and machine. With their long needles, they can sew over 3/4 inch of material, including veg-tan leather. You can list your machine for sale or trade in our Marketplace section, under Leather machinery > Sewing Machines > Used

I use the spring guide feet with caution and mostly on smaller straps, like for watch bands and such. They ride up too easily, unless you have really cleaned up the spring and the channel is moves in.

Congratulations to Ben for correctly defining a C&C warning as Coffee and Cats! The N.A.N.A-E newsgroup was run by network administrators responsible for email systems, many of whom were very geeky people, like me. Many such folk had familiars, er, cats, to assist them with the magic of keeping email servers up and running and in combating spammers. This assistance was provided by the cat curling up on their laps. The trick was to be able to read through various fresh topics, while drinking coffee and trying not to disturb the familiar, er, cat. Sometimes, a member would post a really funny joke, or sarcastic statement, which was as a courtesy prefaced with a warning in the subject: C&C Warning, or C&C Alert. This was to alert all members holding a cup and a cat to rid themselves of both before reading the funny comments. Failure to do so could result in coffee being spit out all over the keyboard and monitor and getting clawed by the cat as it flees for its life, off the comfy perch on our laps.

CLUE NUMBER TWO: NANAE Newsgroup

Think back to 1996, just at the end of the BBS period, when USENET became popular. Every Email Client also included a Newsgroup reader. CLUE NUMBER ONE:

In the early days of the Interwebs, long before there were forums, there were special interest Newsgroups (SIGS), that used a protocol known as NNTP (Network News Transfer Protocol). A certain jargon developed among members of these SIGS, including shorthand abbreviations for commonly used words and phrases. In NewsgroupSpeak, OP stands for : Original Poster - the person who started the thread to which others were replying. Sometimes these threads became so long that the original message was lost in the ever expanding list of replies. Those who remembered the first poster's question would refer to that person as the OP. Now, I am issuing a C&C Alert to those who are from the NNTP generation. All in the know can reply with the definition of a C&C Alert.

By setting the stitch length lever in the middle you neutralize the forward/backward position of the needle bar and feed dog, taking them out of the equation. All you need to adjust it the position of the pickup point, with the needle bar in a centered position, relative to forward and backward.

Here's a thought about the old thread. Get a large enough container to hold the spool of thread. Get some clear sewing machine oil, or a couple quarts of liquid silicon and immerse the thread in the lubricant until it has thoroughly absorbed it into the windings. Remove the lube from the container and let the spool drip dry. When the dripping stops, wipe it down with a few paper towels, thread it into the machine, and see if this helps alleviate the sticking needle problem. The thread will carry the oil or silicon to the needle, which delivers it to the dry leather. Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines has Schmetz needles and nylon thread. They now carry their own brand of pre-lubricated Cowboy thread.

Try using a #26 leather point needle. #25 is minimal for 346 thread and this leather requires a bigger hole. Crank the top pressure spring all the way down. If you have a wide presser foot set, change to it. The wider the feet, the more pressure they exert per square inch. Until you get a lube pot and liquid silicon, buy a can of silicon spray and spray it on the needle as you sew. Some leather is so dry and dense that you have to sew it while it is wet. Try moistening the flesh sides and bottom before gluing them together. Stainless steel feet and throat plates are made for wet sewing. Call Bob Kovar (866-362-7397) about getting a set of his stainless feet and a throat plate.

What common machines are supposed to use system 134? The shank diameter seems wider than DBx257 (1157?) I used in my old 96k.

I have a small box full of leftover needles, in 134 R and LR and 134-35 LR. The 134 R and 134 LR needles are 1.5 inches long and 34 mm from the top of the shank to the eye. The 134-35 LR measure 1 5/8 inches stem to stern, and are 38 mm from the top to the eye. Both systems appear to have the same diameter shank: about 5/64" I'm not sure which were for the Pfaff zigzag head I used to own, and which were used on my 96k40, perhaps with the needle bar raised.