Wizcrafts

Most upholsters use a flat bed walking foot machine, with reverse and a large bobbin, like the Consew 206RB-5 This type of machine definitely sews 3/8 inch of material, with up to #207 bonded thread. The needles available go up to a number 25, which allows you to sew with #207 thread top and bottom. The springs are heavy duty enough to properly tension #207 thread and to hold down the presser feet as the needle lifts with the bobbin thread, through 3/8 inch of webbing or leather. Lesser machines can't hold down such dense materials. The 206RB-5 has a really long maximum stitch length of about 3.5 per inch. The Chandler 406RB is the twin brother, bought out and now made by the same company, for a little cheaper price.

The Chandler 406 is a younger brother of the Consew 206 series. Both are made by the same company. The Chandler costs about $200 less than the Consew.

I think not. Ask Bob Kovar, he may know if that is doable.

On which machine? I read all the time about first time sewers buying a 441 clone and they learn to sew on the first day after setting it up. Others take longer to overcome newbie issues. The medium duty 227 type machines are equally easy to learn to operate and are more flexible due to the large number of different presser feet and attachments available for them, which are not made for the 441s.. With any of these machines the most important lesson is to firmly hold back both threads before you begin to stitch. Don't let go until you either cross back over the first stitch, or have moved on about 3 stitches. The second most important lesson is to learn where every oil hole is and keep oil in them at all times. The third most important lesson is to not sew your fingers! If you were asking about my Union Lockstitch Machine, I will gladly teach you how to operate and adjust it when you come to pick it up. A video camera that records audio would be a big help to you.

A standard walking foot machine that specifies a maximum foot lift of 9/16 inch cannot sew that much. You need at least 1/8 inch free space for the feet to alternate up and down, if not more. This limits the actual sewing thickness to 3/8 inch. Conversely, if the machine specifies it sews 3/8 to 7/16 inch, the foot lift figure will be at least 1/2 inch, to 5/8 inch. There are virtually no machines in the common market place that sew one inch. The only exceptions are the huge long arm flat bed machines used in the tent making, buffing wheel, and car wash cloth industries. Few of them can sew 1 inch. You need to go back to the drawing board and reduce the thickness by at least 1/4 inch. This would allow you to use a 441 clone, either flat bed or cylinder arm, which can sew a little over 3/4 inch. If you truly need to sew one solid inch, consider getting a Campbell High Lift needle and awl stitcher. It should only set you back about 7 grand, plus or minus.

Another thing I forgot to mention is that I got the 35 yards figure from a company selling pre-wound bobbin loads. The actually said 36 yards, but I allowed for loss from bobbin winder misalignment. Your bobbin loads could be higher or lower, depending on how perfectly the bobbin winder lays the threads into the bobbin core.

No. It means you might have as much as 35 yards of thread wound on a bobbin. In actual use the bobbin winder might stop well before than amount has been loaded. Every stitch pulls the bobbin thread up into the leather, around the top thread in a knot, then back down. This takes up as much length as the actual stitches, if not more. So, if you are sewing a 4 foot long belt, that makes about 8 feet (2 sides) x 2 for the knots = ~16 feet of bobbin thread. This amount gets worse as the thickness increases, because the threads are pulled in even farther. Basically, considering that you lose thread each time you finish one piece and start another one, and that the actual amount of thread needed is twice the length being sewn (for each side), you might get 9 to 10 yards of two sided 8 ounce belts sewn per G bobbin load, using #69 thread. That would be cut in half for #138 thread. If the leather is thinner, you could sew farther on a bobbin load.

If the machine uses a G bobbin, common in Singer 111s, it should hold about 35 yards of #69 thread, or half that amount of #138.

Here is a medium duty cylinder arm walking foot machine that sews up to 3/8 inch, with #138 thread. I have been able to sew with 1/8 inch with both a Cobra Class 4 and a Cowboy CB4500. I changed to a #19 needle and used #92 thread. While these machines sewed 8 ounces, they didn't do so without feeder issues. You see, the feed dog slots are very long and wide, to accommodate the equally huge feed dog. Soft, narrow leather straps may get pushed down into the slot in the throat plate, in front of the feed dog and sometimes, into the hole in the feed dog. The medium duty machine above has a much narrower feeder and plate cutout. It also has much shorter needles that don't flex as much as the long type 7x3 needles used in the 441 clones. That said, I have learned that it really depends on what you are sewing on the 441, with small thread and needles, that can affect the outcome. I have no trouble hemming the cuffs on jeans, or leather coat sleeves, using #92 thread and a #19 needle on a big 441. But, trying to use it to sew the tip of a chap leather belt is a struggle. You mentioned that you might look for a needle and awl machine. There is no Union Special needle and awl machine; they make garment sewing machines. There is a Union" Lockstitch" needle and awl machine. I happen to have my Union Lockstitch machine for sale.

Since I originally posted this machine for sale I have modified the existing parts to get it to sew 7/8 inch. Any further lift will require a custom made presser foot and looper arm. I have created a web page with the description of this Union Lockstitch machine for sale with lots of photos. I have been asked what it will take to get it to sew one inch. It will require having a custom presser foot and matching thread looper machined. I intend to get a quote from a nearby machine shop for having these parts made. If the modifications are successful, the cost of the new parts will be added to the selling price. It will be the only one like it around! If anybody is interested in buying the machine now, before I invest in more parts, call me at 810-422-5301, or contact me via the forum PM system. The machine is still offered as cash and carry from Flint, Michigan, for $2700, as it currently is (with 7/8" lift). Shipping from Toledo (Ohio) Industrial Sewing Machines may be arranged for distant buyers. I don't know what that will cost. They are about 112 miles from me.

The owner of the Randall R132 belt cutter has asked me to lower the asking price again, to $3500. The description and photos are found here Anybody wishing to purchase the machine should call Doug Monroe, at: 810-732-4907, between noon and 6 PM, Eastern Time.

The machine specs call for a G bobbin. If you actually were sent a G bobbin and it doesn't fit into the bobbin case, somebody must have modified the hook. Or, maybe you were sent some other bobbin, like a class 15. Measure the diameter and height of the space inside the bobbin case and post the dimensions here.

Read my pinned article about The type of sewing machine you need to sew leather Next, settle on either a flat bed or cylinder arm machine to start with. Note, that you can buy or have a table attachment made to cover a cylinder arm, turning it into a partial flat bed machine for wallets, vests, chaps, belts, etc. A flat bed is always flat. Brands I like best are (alphabetically): Adler, Chandler, Cobra, Consew, Cowboy, Juki, Seiko, Singer (and the Japanese National 300N, if you can find one). Most folks on this forum are using machines they purchase from dealers who are members of Leatherworker.net. Those dealers offer after-sale support you cannot get from most eBay sellers. If you buy a sewing machine from a seller on Craigslist, you are totally on your own if you encounter problems. I have and use the following brands of industrial sewing machines: Cowboy, National, Singer and Union Lockstitch. Two are flat beds, two have cylinder arms and one a semi-post machine. In the past I have also owned Pfaff and Juki sewing machines. I have friends who own a Consew and love them. My best friend, for whom I do sewing when needed, owns an Adler and a Cobra. I also want to clarify that the machines sold on eBay as "industrial strength" are as strong as any home machine can be, but are not leather sewing machines. I own four home style sewing machines. Two are old iron Singers. Will they sew leather? Yes, about 1/8 to 3/16 of an inch, but only with #69 thread. Will they feed a large piece of leather, without ganging up on stitches, or separating the layers? NO.The only way they sew multiple layers inline is if if they are stapled, glued or taped together first. They need help feeding leather through the feed dogs, because the flat fixed presser foot drags against the top layer. As a result, stitches vary in length. To properly sew leather, with say a middle weight thread like #138, requires an actual industrial sewing machine, preferably with triple feed. These are called compound feed walking foot machines. My article linked to above explains all of this.

May I suggest that you open a new topic for your future questions, rather than using this pinned topic?

It uses system 135x16 leather point and 135x17 regular point needles, available wherever industrial sewing machines are sold. There have been plenty of posts on this forum showing needle vs thread sizes. Or, you can consult the needle and thread chart on Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines. This is a light duty walking foot machine and is suitable for the soft leather you will be sewing. The bobbins are standard industrial G size, best suited to thin thread. Your machine can handle up to #138 bonded nylon or bonded polyester thread. If the bobbins run out too soon, try using #92 in the bobbin and #138 on top. Or just #92 top and bottom. The 226r-1 only yields 5 stitches per inch, which is fine for seat covers. If you can't afford a servo motor and the machine runs too fast for you, buy a smaller motor pulley and a shorter v-belt to match. Keep the machine oiled between uses. Don't try to use thread heavier than #138, nor work thicker than 3/8 inch. Here is a topic about the same machine, from Feb 2012

All you need to do to sew leather with your Tacsew is to slow down the motor (by installing either a variable speed servo motor, or by replacing the motor pulley with a 2 inch pulley and shorter belt), use smooth presser feet, and change to leather point needles. Using pre-lubricated thread will help cool the needle and reduce grabbing on dense leather. Do not try to exceed 3/8 inch of leather, or use thread larger than #207. It is best for the machine to stick with #69 through #138 bonded nylon thread. The denser the leather, the slower you must sew. While vests and chaps can be sewn at 20 stitches per second, an 8 ounce belt would have to be slowed down to about 10 per second, maximum speed. A double leather belt, 1/4 inch thick, might grab the needle at that speed, so it would be best sewn at no more than 5 stitches per second (~ one inch). Hold back the threads when you start sewing to avoid birds nests that will jam the bobbin and throw the machine out of time.

A couple of things that cause loss of stitching are a bent, broken, or missing thread check spring (in needle bar, just above the needle mounting block), loose or incorrectly positioned shuttle drive gear, a broken top of a needle inside the needle mount, or incorrect threading path, or the needle inserted backwards.

You won't hurt the machine as long as limit the leather to soft to medium temper, about 3/16" maximum, with #69 bonded nylon thread and a #18 leather point needle. You will need to change the presser foot to either a Teflon foot, or a foot with little rollers inside, or the leather may drag on the foot. You will also need to lower the top pressure adjuster for more pressure to hold down the leather. Set the stitch length to the maximum, which should be close to 5 or 6 stitches per inch. Some old Singer machines cannot sew more than 7 to the inch, which is not so good for leather. Tiny stitches can cut right through soft or dry leather. By contrast, modern walking foot sewing machines can sew 4 to the inch, into 3/8 inch of medium leather, using a #23 or #24 needle and #138 to #207 thread. Most have large bobbins that hold almost double the amount of thread as the old 27. When you decide that it's time to move up to a more serious machine, get back in touch with us. PS: That machine will not be on eBay.

I use a #19 or #20 needle for #92 thread. I use a #22 to #23 needle with #138 thread. You would need a #24 needle for #207 thread.

I got a drop down roller edage guide at Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines (866-362-7397). It has two holes on a mounting plate that must be fastened to the back of the head of your machine. My head had to be drilled and tapped for two metric screws, but you could use any thread pitch, as long as it is number 10 or 12. The screws must not protrude so far as to touch any moving parts inside the head.

You're gonna be like a kid in a candy store when you get your machine and set it up.

Your machine might be able to feed waxed thread, if the needle is oversize. The wax tends to come off along the way to and through the eye of the needle. It could gum up the works. I shouldn't have mentioned it at all in this topic. You're better off sticking to bonded nylon. I used to use Linhanyl thread, until it ceased being imported into the USA. I now buy Cowboy pre-lubricated bonded nylon thread, available from Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines. My friend for whom I sew buys only Weaver pre-lubricated bonded nylon thread.

Your machine uses system 7x3 or 794 needles. For sewing wallets and purses you will probably use #92 bonded nylon thread. This calls for a #19 needle; #20 tops. Belts will probably be sewn with #138 bonded nylon thread, using a #22 needle; #23 tops. Tack, reins, collars, bridles, common holsters, knife and tool sheaths should be sewn with #277 bonded nylon or bonded polyester thread, using a #25 needle. Go up one needle size when sewing Biothane. Duty holsters are usually sewn with #346 bonded nylon, or 6 cord linen thread (run through a liquid wax), using a #26 to #27 needle. If you go into production, buy two spools of thread in each size and color you will be using. One is for the top, the other is for reloading spare bobbins as you sew. Notes: Smaller needle sizes are typically only available in standard round point. This encompasses sizes 18 through 22. The remaining sizes are available in either round, or a variety of leather points, with S being the most popular. It lays down a straight stitch that sits tightly against or even into the top grain. Common left twist leatherpoint needles produce a zig-zag pattern. Triangle points produce a straight line, but leave marks on the sides, However, they fill in the holes more than other leather points. I hope this helps.

Why haven't you already ordered your needles and thread from Steve? They could ship with the machine, saving you postage and probably a higher price from someone else. On the other hand, if he is out of stock, you can get your needles and thread from Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines.

You are going to need two machines to sew everything you described. Get a 441 clone, with a flat table attachment and a foot treadle operated patcher. Patchers have universal feed and can sew up the arm, or any direction. Although they are light duty machines, they will patch boots, vests, jackets, garment sleeves and legs, install zippers and repair purse interiors and do other small odd jobs. Between these two machines and some accessory feet for the 441, you can sew almost any leather project. FYI: I use a patcher for odd jobs, as well as a 16.5" arm 441, a walking foot machine, a straight stitch flat feed machine, a huge harness sttitcher, a serger, an electronic machine and two very old Singer iron machines. Each one does something different and is adjusted to do so.