Wizcrafts

Cajun; Why don't you start a new topic requesting help from other Cobra owners? Somebody may have experienced the same problem and knows how to fix it. I sew with a Cobra Class 4 at work and am responsible for adjusting and maintaining it. I may be able to help you get yours working right.

Pull the thread out of the machine, including the bobbin thread. Close the empty bobbin case. Place the same thickness of leather under the feet and try hand or slow machine sewing without thread. Does the machine hang as the take-up lever is rising? Does the needle stop while the hand wheel turns? If so, try tightening the screws that secure the wheel to its shaft! It could be that simple.

I'm starting to dwell on the idea of somehow mounting a funnel over a spool of thread and feeding the thread through it to the loop or hole in the stand.

I think you are going to want to move down to #92 or 138 thread for those thin projects. Here's what you need to bet and the changes to make. 2 spools of each color bonded nylon thread you want to use in sizes 92 and 138. Eight ounce spools will do. A pack of leather point needles (system 794-LL) in sizes 19 and 22, or 20 and 23. another half dozen or more bobbins. Tightly wind bobbins with the #92 and #138 thread, in various colors, and label them or hang them on size-labeled hooks. After inserting a bobbin with #92 or 138 thread, tighten the bobbin spring to maintain some tension on the thread. The setting for #277 will be totally loose with #92, and almost totally loose with #138. Back off the top tension disk setting It might be necessary to lighten up the action on the check spring, on the bottom tensioner. Run some test strips and fine tune the tensions on the bobbin case and the top tensioner. It might be necessary to feed the top thread straight through the top hole in the machine mounted thread guide post, without wrapping it around and out a second hole. Two wrapped holes may present too much resistance and override the tensioner disks. I use these tips myself when sewing everything from garments to saddle bags, to belts to rifle slings. Using a #22 needle with #138 thread produces a tighter knot in thin leathers. Using a #23 needle makes it easier to position the knots higher in thick leather, with #138 thread. Also, for thin leather projects, back off the presser foot pressure adjustment. It may need to go almost all the way out for very soft or thin work.

First of all, although you haven't said what model your Cobra is, I want to reassure you that the Cobra 441 clones are fully capable of sewing balanced stitches in leather thicknesses from under 6 ounces to over 3/4 inch. I regularly sew with a Cobra Class 4, so I will try to help you with some suggestions. The 441 clones are not light duty sewing machines. They need a certain amount of top and bottom tension and pressure to operate properly. An overly tight bobbin is as counterproductive as one that has no tension at all. Set a modicum of tension on the bobbin spring for the thread you are using. Not too tight, not too loose. It should pull out smoothly, without any hiccups. Hiccups can be caused by leaving a piece of the tied down starting thread looped around the hole it goes through and the top of that side of the bobbin. Cut off any thread that protrudes from the holes in the end disks of the bobbins. Thread the bobbins to feed backwards in the case. With the bobbin case open, rotated backwards so the opening is facing back towards the front, hold the wound bobbin so that the thread feeds off the top towards the back of the machine. Place the bobbin in the case and feed the thread through the slot and snap it securely into the tension spring. Make sure the bobbin thread feeds under its spring and out the mouth end, then snap the bobbin case shut. Pull on the thread that protrudes (4 to 6 inches) and make sure the tension has not changed. Consult the instruction DVD to ensure you are threading the top thread as per Steve's instructions. Before you feed the thread through the needle's eye, pull on it to make sure it is under tension from the top disks. Adjust the spring tension as needed to get a strong amount of resistance, while still being able to pull the thread a bit. Lift the presser foot release lever with the foot pedal and see if the thread pulls easily. Let go of the foot lifter. Now lift the hand presser lifter on the back and see if the top tension has been released at all. I find that the hand lifter only releases a little top tension, whereas the foot lifter lets it go almost completely. The hand or foot lifters, when lifted, should force the top disks apart (with a little lever that moves from the bottom of the disks) to release thread tension. Then, when you release the lifter, the lever that splits the disks must drop down to allow the disks to close and pressure to be applied, as set by the finger adjuster nut. If this lever is sticking in the disks, the tension may not be properly applied to the thread. If the check spring has too much tension, it can cause additional drag on the top thread. The spring has two possible adjustments. Once is the movable stopper plate under it, which sets how long the top thread is kept taut during the down stroke.This is set by the single flat head screw that sits inside the slot in the stopper plate. This is a trial and error adjustment. You don't want it to stop short, nor all the way down, in most cases. set it somewhere in between. If the spring has a LOT of tension, reduce it by loosening the nut on the back of the face plate where the bottom disk shaft is mounted. With the nut loose, insert a small flat bade screw driver into the split shaft and turn it whichever way loosens the spring action. Loosen the spring a little then tighten down the locking nut. Make sure you thread through the needle from left to right, with the cutout scarf facing the dead-right side. If you are using a #25 needle, it works best with #V207 or T210 thread, top and bottom. It will feed #277 on top, but 207 on the bottom is easier to pull up into the leather. If the leather is soft temper, you may be able to get away with a #25 needle and #277 thread, top and bottom. For #138 thread, I use #23 leather point needles. Yes, a 21 or 22 works, but the #23 seems to sew more reliably. Use system 794 Schmetz needles if possible. Set the top pressure spring adjuster so it sticks out the top between 1 and 1.5 inches. Before you start sewing, hold the top and bottom threads back hard. Sew in reverse a couple stitches, then throw the lever to forward and cross over the starting threads. Let go of the threads and sew slowly for a few inches. Lift the foot lifter and remove the leather. Check the position of the knots. If you see the top thread knots on the bottom, increase the top tension adjuster. If the knots are on top, reduce the top tension. If the stitches look decent, sew a longer run of stitches, using your edge guide. As your machine is sewing, look up at the top thread and see if it is winding around anything and causing knots to form. Also, see if it is trying to twist out of the top tension disks. I have actually seen a knot forming as the top thread twists after going through the post on top of the machine. When that happens, try changing how you feed it through that post. Twisted thread causes tension problems. It can even twist right out of the top tension disks! Some thread is just plain shitty. If you have really springy thread, remove it and try another brand, or another spool. Thread can vary from run to run. If the thread is feeding properly, without kinking or knotting, and without popping out of the center of the top tension or bottom tensions disks, and the bobbin thread is feeding evenly, with a bit of resistance, using the proper needle size for the top and bottom thread, your stitches should all fall into the same vertical position in the leather. Failure to do so indicates that there is either a problem with the thread or the machine needs adjusted. Sometimes a screw may shake loose and affect the timing or repeatability of good stitching. Please rule out everything else before you assume that the machine needs to be adjusted beyond the tension settings I mentioned. I will watch for your replies tomorrow morning, or night. I'll be out all afternoon. If you get a chance, photograph how you are threading the top thread, from the spools, all the way to the needle.

Lower the needle bar itself by the amount necessary to place a properly installed needle at the correct height on the upstroke, to place the eye below the pickup point. If you have already lowered the needle inside the bar, you may need to move the bar down at least 3 mm. That should position the needle's eye below the hook as it passes the cutout scarf.

The eye of your needle must be below the hook point, on the way up. Otherwise, how can it pick up the loop? It looks to me as though the needle you identify as the Schmetz is too short. It's eye is above the hook. It is not the same system of needle as the GB, or it would have the same length. I think you need to lower the GB needle bar 1 millimeter or two and see if that fixes the skipping stitches. You can test this by just clamping the needle in so it sits lower in the needle bar hole. If you lower the needle by a millimeter and that fixes the skipping, then loosen the screw in the face of the head which clamps the needle bar in place and lower it by that amount. Then clamp it tight. Then, reposition the needle all the way up in the needle hole, set it tight and try sewing. Your goal is to have the needle's eye go below the hook position, then rise up and form a loop. The hook should pass above the eye, inside the cutout area, to grab that loop, but not touch the needle in the process. If that ring gear is missing teeth, replace it.

Drognan; See what kind of deal you can find on a Juki LU-1508. It is their flagship flatbed walking foot model. They usually list for almost twice to price of the 1541 models. Plus, if you get one that was made recently, in Japan, it may even glow in the dark, helping you sew at night!

Hopefully, you can buy this machine for no more than $100, considering that it will cost another 2 or 3 hundred to fix it up in a shop.

I still struggle on my Union Lockstitch machine, which has a 12" space on the right, when I sew weight belts, gun belts or large holsters. It takes a lot of room to fold up a double leather belt or strap for fancy fishtail stitching. Actually, a 25 inch arm is best for such work.

That is the most beat up and rusted out Singer 111w102 I have ever seen. Yes, it will sew leather. No, it is not worth $150, unless you plan on restoring it yourself, as a labor of love. Machines that are so badly rusted on the outside are usually as bad inside. If that is the case, you will be replacing rods, cranks, gears, shafts, shuttle, and who knows what else. Or, you may get lucky and it is only external surface rust. It's a crap shoot. This particular sub-class of the 111 has bottom feed only. Most upholstery shops and leather workers use walking foot, triple feed machines only. This is not such a machine. It also lacks reverse, so you'll have to either tie off the threads, or spin the work around 180 to back-tack. The stitch length can only be changed by pushing down a button on the body and rotating the hand-wheel one way or the other, then releasing that button. It appears to be setup with #22 needles and #138 thread. I can use a bigger needle and one size larger thread, depending on the condition of the tensioners. You should go and test the machine before offering any money at all. Seeing and hearing it operate will tell you whether it is worth anything at all.

Do not assume that all of your sewing will be along the edges only. One day someone will want a Western holster and as you stitch around the 22 inches of body and back flap, you'll appreciate the 16.5 inch arm. Or, perhaps you'll sew a pistol belt with gunfighter stitching, like I do. You'll need all the room on the right side that you can get.

This happened to me on my previous Singer 29-4 patcher. The thread was getting pulled under the shuttle plate, rather than under the bobbin case. The eye of the needle was too low. I solved the problem by substituting shorter industrial needles for the 29x3 and 29x4 that I bought for the machine. Bob Kovar later suggested that perhaps a needle had broken off just above the needle locking screw (after being overtightened) and was jammed inside the needle mounting hole - above the lock screw. I don't have that machine anymore to check it. But, you could take off the needle mounting tab, unscrew the needle locking screw, remove the needle and tap it on a hard surface. Maybe, just maybe, a broken top of a needle will fall out and your needles will have the correct length. Otherwise, the slop in the bobbin drive gears may the the culprit. Other things to try: Move the needle mount closer to the right of the hole. Loosen the screw above the needle locking screw and push the mount to the right, then tighten that screw. Lower the needle bar all the way, then shine a flashlight up it on the outside. Look for a paddle shaped spring above the needle mounting bracket. If that paddle is broken, of twisted, or no longer making direct contact with the thread, it will cause skipped stitches. Change the needle Make sure the needle is threaded from left to right.

Paedalus I would go for the Claes cylinder arm machine. It will server you best of all those machines. It is bottom feed only, but look at how well it sews hard and thick leather! It can probably be fitted with needles ranging from #140 up to #250 (metric), allowing you to sew with US thread numbers 138 through 415. The big machine is not like a Union Lockstitch, but is similar to a Puritan chainstitch machine. Chainstitch machines are used to sew luggage, golf bags, briefcases and hiking boots. They make a thread chain on the bottom of the material, which is not pleasant to look at. That's why they are only used where the bottom thread is not normally seen. The Junker And Ruh is a sole stitching machine only.

I wuz just funnin' with ya ;-)

Where are you going to find a Juki 441 for $2500? Send me a link so I can buy one! They sell for over $5000 everywhere I've looked. One would be lucky to find a used Juki 441 for $2500. The Chinese 441 clones sell for about $2500 new, with 16.5" arms. Nine inch models sell for around 2 grand.

If you buy a used machine privately, you will be responsible for all repairs and adjustments. Most long time dealers will provide you with some degree of phone assistance on their used machines. All of our member-dealers warranty the new machines they sell and provide one-on-one phone or email support. If you can afford to buy a new machine, from a reputable industrial sewing machine dealer, you'll be better off. This will be especially important to you as a first time sewer. You are bound to run into issues you can't solve on your own. It will be beneficial if you can phone the dealer and ask him how to get out of your jackpot, rather than posting a question on the public forum. You outta read our Leather Sewing Machines forum. It gets really interesting there with some topics drawing all kinds of fireworks. There are members that frequent that section who have dozens of years of experience with industrial and leather sewing machines. I applaud you for coming here with your questions, and not eBay.

Rodeoman; Here is an example of a 16.5 inch cylinder arm leather stitcher. It has a bunch of accessories available, including a bolt on flat table. If you use a fairly small needle, say a number 22 or 23 (leather point), with #138 bonded nylon thread, it will sew chaps all day long. This type of machine sews over 3/4 inch thickness, with very thick thread (up to #415). It has large, cylinder shaped bobbins that hold a huge amount of thread.

A harness stitcher like mine is of no use when sewing most chaps. Chap leather is just thick garment leather. You are probably not going to be using any thread larger than #138. Any industrial walking foot machine, whether flat bed or cylinder arm, can sew up to 3/8 inch thickness, using #138 bonded nylon thread. Look for a good walking foot machine with a large bobbin and reverse lever. You will need to get one with a servo motor, or replace the clutch motor with a servo motor, to control the machine at slow speeds. It is easier to control the work on a flat bed machine, when it is large and flat, like chaps. If you are looking to buy a new machine, a Consew 206RB-5 is a very good choice. The Chandler 406RB is its sister machine and costs a couple hundred less for basically the same machine. Both have a big bobbin and can sew 3/8 inch leather with #138 thread.

You gotta realize that the Singer 29-4 machines go back over a hundred years. They have been improved along the years, including the head mounted lock screw.

You need to define what thickness of leather you intend to sew and the size of thread you want to use. Saddle machines need to be at least 12 inches deep, on the right of the needle. Most saddlers here are using 16.5" cylinder arm machines, with triple feed. They sew with up to #415 thread. They are sold by Cowboy, Cobra, Techsew and others. Look at the banners on top and click on them to go to their websites. I have a harness machine for sale, that sews up to 3/4 inch, with any thread, with 12 inches inside the post. But, I am in Michigan and it is being sold cash and carry.

I've owned two 29-4 patchers, including one a year ago, and neither one had the stop screw. It is present on my 29k172. This is probably an addition made when the K series was started, or sometime thereafter.

I routinely glue green foam, purchased at Joann Fabrics, onto the backs of rifle slings and weight belts, then glue suede covers over the back and foam. I use two coats of rubber glue on each piece and it does not affect the foam negatively. This combination is secure enough to hold the package solidly in place for sewing. Drying time between coats depends on the temperature and humidity. I find that on a typical day, with a temperature in the high 60's, and low humidity, a coat dries in about 10 minutes. An overhead fan helps speed this up. The green foam is sold for making seats and chairs. I find that it has just the right density for padding leather straps and camera cases. It cuts nicely with a long sharp knife, or scissors. We usually buy it with a 50% off coupon, or wait for it to go on sale at 50% off, which is like every other month. The green foam is sod at Joann Fabrics stores in thickness ranging from 1/2 to 4 inches, by the yard. Finding a cheap source of quarts of rubber glue can be challenging, but is doable. Call around your local office supply, sewing and craft stores. Also, stores that sell to schools stock quarts of rubber glue.

If those loops of thread are on the bottom, I suspect that either the bobbin spring is way too tight, or the top tensioner disks are not being allowed to press together all the way, under spring pressure, during sewing. Check to make sure that when you lower the presser foot lift lever, that the disks close all the way. You may need to increase the presser foot top pressure to get the mechanism to drop down under the flange on the thread tension cup, over the disks. If the lift parts are not moving freely, remove them if possible and clean them. Then apply sewing machine oil to help closing parts close all the way.

I believe so. I already suggested that to someone else. The person importing the thread should be familiar with purchasing goods from abroad and doing Customs declarations, brokerage, etc. My guess is that the order would end up being for a lot more than one case (actually over a dozen). I alone commonly use at least 5 different colors of thread , in sizes 69, 138 and 277. This type of stock is in the domain of industrial sewing machine dealers. I suppose that if a bunch of members went in on the deal, the initial order might be for black, white, straw and medium brown, in sizes 138 and/or 277, or just #207 as a compromise.