Wizcrafts
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Posts posted by Wizcrafts
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I have a few spools of Serafil bonded thread. It isn't as strongly bonded as Cowboy thread. The stitches look looser to me.
The Strongbond looks comparable to what most of us in the US are using for sewing leather.
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Check to see if you threaded the needle backwards. Your drawing shows it threaded from right to left, from the scarf side to the rib side. That is backwards!
You should be using bonded nylon thread to sew leather. The Venus thread you have is for cloth garments. Your needle is very small as well. To sew 2 layers of soft to medium temper leather you should use #69 (T70) bonded nylon thread with a #18 leather point needle. Sewing 4 layers calls for moving up to #92 bonded thread with a #19 or #20 needle. This assumes that the leather pieces are each about 2 ounces thickness.
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3 hours ago, photo2u said:
Is this the area where the "prying" is needed? Please advise!
Yes, that's the shuttle driver. I think I see a crew on your shuttle driver. If so, unscrew it/them and remove the driver. Insert it in a vise and carefully bend one of the arms out slightly. Reinstall it and see if there is more clearance for the top thread. Also, polish the trailing end where the thread exits.
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9 hours ago, photo2u said:
Hi, I am new in this forum and I was looking for ways to make my 31-15 utilize tex 69 thread properly. I am interested in knowing how to "clearanced the shuttle driver and shuttle race" as you did to your machine?
I welcome any advice,
G
My Singer 31-15 has a pinned shuttle driver that can't be rotated to adjust timing. When I bought it, the clearance between the ends of the driver and the shuttle was just enough to clear standard cotton or polycore garment sewing thread. This made for excellent results with thin thread, but not with bonded 69. My solution, which was passed along by a friendly industrial sewing machine dealer, was to carefully pry the ends of the shuttle driver out a little. This increases the free space between the driver and the shuttle. I fine tuned the clearance for #69 bonded thread and called it a day.
Because the 31-15s had fixed position shuttle drivers, the only way to time the machine is by moving the needle bar up or down and changing the clearance to the shuttle. Many of these almost 100 year old machines have partially or fully stripped set screws on the needle bar. If you can get the screw to turn it is best to replace it with a new one. Then you can fine tune the needle's eye to hook point very slightly, or even to change needle systems. I set mine to use system DBx1 , also known as; 16x231, 16x257, 1738, or 1515. These are the same needles my serger uses, so I get double duty out of these needles.
Here is a discussion about the Singer 31-15 that I was involved with.
Note, that if you set too much clearance on the shuttle driver, the shuttle action will become sloppy and you'll get unpredictable results.
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I have never actually seen or used Vinymo brand thread, but if it is not left twist, bad things will happen when it is used in a normal lockstitch sewing machine. Untwisted and right twist unravel in most machines, except for shoe sole stitchers
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4 hours ago, toxo said:
Wow! That's some sewing machine. Was that a coin it sewed through?
Just a penny!
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19 minutes ago, Professor said:
I partly restored my Mom's and Granma's ( and possibly Great Granma) Singer foot pedal machine, using the table and top hatch from the stripped down cabinet of a later model to replace the oil perished wood.
This reply is totally off topic and not even about an industrial leather sewing machine. It is a hijack of the existing topic. All such replies will be hidden.
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4 hours ago, campingtomz said:
I recently bought a Juki 563 for 250$ It works great, very smooth action. Only major issue is the machine runs way to fast for what I want to do with it. Mainly wallets and some other small items. I might try some bags. Dam it was a lot heavier than i thought it was going to be.
I am looking for suggestions on how to slow it down I know there are servo motor and a speed reducer. I am wondering what brands/version you guys would recommend.I use and recommend the Family Sew FS-550s servo motor with a 50mm pulley preinstalled. It is easy to control down to a stitch and a half per second, or less, if your toe is steady.
4 hours ago, campingtomz said:Needle I know the needle size(type) is a 135x17, what I am having trouble with is what point type is recommended.
System 135x17 is round point, for cloth, webbing and vinyl. System 135x16 is a leather point of some shape. It could be an oval chisel or a triangle, or a diamond shape.
4 hours ago, campingtomz said:For the thread I know it is limited to size 138, is it possible to push it to 207 or 277? Having done some research on this site, it seems like it will not be possible
A Juki LU-563 is not going to treat #207 thread nicely. There may be shreds and skips and knots on the bottom.It totally can't handle #277 thread at all! Fergetit ! You have an upholstery class machine, with reverse, such as it is. It can sew with #138 thread all day. The LU bobbins can hold twice as much thread as the standard Singer G bobbin used in the Juki LU-562.
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On 10/24/2019 at 11:09 AM, howlback said:
Someone is selling a 2008 Campbell lockstitch machine near me for around 1.5k, curious how much a motor would cost to get the thing operational.
I can't see the machine in the photo you didn't post. Without a couple of frontal views of the table, nobody can know what is missing. There are various levers, pedals and shafts involved in driving the flywheel. It may have been set up with a continuous run motor, or a clutch motor, or even a modern servo motor. Or, it may have been foot treadled.
Here is a video of a Campbell Randall Lockstitch sewing, including a view of the motor and linkage.
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2 hours ago, jrprottas said:
Great info thank you. Where does the 1541 fit into the Juki lineup?
It is a general purpose upholstery class machine. It maxes out at 3/8 inch with #138 bonded thread, like every other similar upholstery machine. Their needle stroke is too short to clear 1/2 inch under the alternating feet. The needle is not long enough either. Further, the top of the alternating feet will make hard contact with the bottom of the needle bar if you try climbing too high. This may break the thread guide off and may even throw the needle bar out of time.
The Juki 1508NH will do what you asked. It was built specifically to use longer needles and lift higher before any parts make contact. Why look at less qualified machines that use standard walking foot needles?
Note, that only the 1508 subclass NH can sew 1/2 inch and use #210 thread. The other 1508s only sew 3/8 inch with #138.
There is another class of machines that can sew up to about 1/2 inch. They are cloned from the ancient Singer 45k and have bottom feed only. Cowboy has this model, called the CB2500.
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4 minutes ago, Hags said:
I have a chance to buy an Adler 205-8. It says can sew up to 1 inch of leather. I am having a hard time finding any real data on this machine. Anybody know anything about these units? Thanks
This 205 variant has been discussed on Leatherworker.net and elsewhere in the past. Here are some links to those conversations and a manual.
Considering that it has bottom feed only and uses system 214 needles (same as a Singer 45k), I doubt it can sew anywhere near an inch. It's more like 1/2 to 5/8 inch.
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I only use bonded nylon or bonded polyester spools of thread in my lockstitch machines. The only lube on thread should be silicon thread lubricant.The maximum your Consew 227 can handle is #138, with a #23 (aka 160) needle. If the seams are taped or glued, use titanium coated needles. Keep a small can of Goof Off and a dauber handy to clean the adhesive off the needle.
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9 minutes ago, jrprottas said:
Can you suggest some Juki models that can do 1/2+" depth and cover a thread range of 92-207. Since your post I've been looking at the 1508 used and the 1541 but can find the depth or thread specs. I'd like the servo motor, speed reducer and a cylinder arm which attachable flatbed table. Is there a site that compares Juki models to the clones?
There is one I know of: Juki LU-1508NH that has a longer needle stroke, takes System 190 needles and can be setup to sew 1/2 inch with up to #207 thread, using a #24 needle. The next step up is the Juki TSC-441 that sews at least 3/4 inch with up to #415 thread and uses System 794 needles.
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The #26 is the old Singer size. The 230 is the metric designation. Some of us think in Singer US sizes while others think in millimeters. The bottom line is that a #26/230 needle is the proper size for #346 thread, top and bottom, and it pokes a really big hole. My largest needles are #27. Some giant harness stitchers and sole stitchers have humongous holes in the throat plate or feed dog that allow for a #30 needle. I once had a needle and awl set for a Union Lockstitch machine that resembled roofing nails, which covered #554 bonded nylon thread.
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Followup info.
Your domestic sewing machine uses "low shank" (short) feet. Industrial straight stitch machines use high shank (tall) feet. Never shall the twain meet.
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13 minutes ago, cwyhs said:
Thanks for the insight Wiz. I certainly would like to get a true walking foot machine, hopefully sooner than later. I am hoping that this Singer can serve as a decent hold over on my smaller projects in the meantime. With that said, what needles should I stay away from with using this machine for the light leather I will be using? Also, I believe I heard you mention it will not like any thread over #69?
Thank you again
As a stopgap measure, buy either a Teflon or roller equipped presser foot (for domestic sewing machines) that lets leather glide under it rather than be dragged. To sew with #69 bonded thread you need either #16 or #18 needles. If you are sewing cloth or webbing, or vinyl, use standard round point needles. When you sew leather change to leather points.
The roller foot may require an adapter to mate it to your domestic machine presser bar. This, combined with the thick foot, will reduce the clearance under the foot to about 1/8 inch. Teflon presser feet are simpler to use, but are easily damaged if they land on top of the feed dog teeth. It's best to buy a bunch of them at one time so you can swap them out as you forget about avoiding the teeth (ask how I know).
You may also be able to improve the feeding of leather by spraying the top of the seams with silicon as you sew.
Keep the bobbin winder knob as tight as possible on the flywheel. The impact of sewing leather tends to cause it to loosen and may allow the wheel to spin and not drive the machine.
Finally, try to buy titanium needles for sewing leather, or any other textile that is secured by basting tape.
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The Singer 15 class machines are domestic use, cloth garment sewing machines with bottom feed only. They have light weight take-up and tension parts and are not up to snuff for sewing leather of much thickness over a few ounces of garment or thin chap leather. Leather that is sticky on top doesn't feed very well on this type of machine. You are best to dedicate that machine to sewing cloth and look for a used industrial walking foot machine for sewing leather, vinyl and webbing. A good starter machine would be a Singer 111w155, or a Juki LU-562, or a Consew 206RB-1 through -5. The criteria to watch for is triple feed, where the needle, inside foot and feed dog move in concert as the outside foot alternates up and down.
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4 minutes ago, jrprottas said:
Actually this would be my first machine. I like your term "middle of the road" as it describes what I'd like to get if its possible. Something that I could I initially use for wallets and small bags until I find a niche. I realize I cant do saddle work or fine stitching with such a machine. I realize it would represent compromise: 1/2" depth rather than 7/8", a 277 thread weight rather than 415, etc
And I definately don't want a compromise that doesnt do anything very well, and end up buying 3 machines.
This describes the Cowboy CB3200. You would want to order it with a range of needles and thread covering thread sizes #92 through 277. Then, consider a flat slotted throat plate for lighter weight projects and smaller thread and needles. Get lots of bobbins and preload them with various sizes of thread. Buy thread spools in pairs of each color so you can wind a fresh bobbin as you sew.
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14 hours ago, turbotexas said:
I’ve got a boatload of parts in a trade recently! This was included! I’ve even got the football presser foot! More screws than I’ll ever use!
I might could use a needle clamping screw that goes on the needle bar, among other parts. Do you have that screw in your spare parts? It is square headed.
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System 134 sounds right for that Pfaff. Avoid 134-35 as they are too long. You want System 134 Leather Point or Diamond/Tri Point.
The needle bar can be raised to accommodate longer needles, but why do that?
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1 hour ago, Woolies said:
Thanks Wiz! Great feedback! For decorative stitching it is tempting- but I have only space for 1 machine so might pass and keep looking.
Thanks for all the info again!
I have two machines that drop into the same table. The knee lever works for the walking foot machine but not the 31-15. However, it can be altered to lift the foot in the 31 class machine. Better yet, get a table with a foot lift floor pedal that can pull down on the lift mechanisms with a long chain. Just make sure you buy manual oiled machines that don't need an oil filled pan. Then buy a straight stitch and a walking foot that have 7" x 17" beds. The tilt pin holes can be modified so both machines can tilt back in the table clamps.
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I see from your profile that you are into shoe making. A lot of shoe and boot makers use 31-15 machines that are converted into roller foot machines to sew decorative patterns into the uppers.This class of machine can sew very tiny stitches with small thread and needles. You can buy bonded nylon thread as small as #33 and lay down an intricate pattern at 24 to 32 stitches per inch, using a #9 needle. Also available is #46 bonded thread which can be sewn with a #12 or #14 needle. You won't get the same short stitches as with the smaller needle, but it will still sew a nice pattern at about 16 per inch.
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5 hours ago, Woolies said:
Hi again,
I have found a used Singer 31K15- would this be a good buy for my needs? (if working and in good condition etc...)
Also if needed could I replace the motor with a servo and speed reducer if needed (not sure how difficult (possible?) It is on this machine..., I'm pretty handy, can change car oil, brakes, etc...)?
Just want to double check if this machine could probably sew through 3 layers of soft 3-4 oz leather? But I would mostly be doing 2 layers.
Thanks!
I have the US version of that machine: the 31-15. Yours is British, made in Scotland. It is essentially the same machine as mine.
The 31(- or k) 15 uses Class 15 bobbins and is a tailoring machine. The foot lifts to about 1/4 to 5/16 inch. But, with higher foot lift there is a risk of activating the tension release pin prematurely. That would cause a total loss of top tension. You are best not sewing more than 1/4 inch on that machine.
The feed is drop feed only, via interchangeable feed dogs. For leather you'll want to purchase an aggressive feed dog and matching throat plate. If the leather drags under the foot you may need either a Teflon or roller foot. With smooth feed it should get 5 stitches per inch. If the standard foot grabs the leather you'll get shorter stitches. The maximum safe thread size is #69 bonded nylon, with a #18 needle. You may possibly be able to get it to sew with #92 bonded thread using a #19 or #20 needle. However, the beehive tension spring on this machine is rather feeble (meant for thin cotton thread) and may need to be replaced with a walking foot tension spring for nylon thread.
Your 8 ounce soft leather seams should be well within its capacity. Three layers would be pushing it, especially since it has bottom feed only. If you try sewing dense leather you'll likely cause the needle bar to move up from the impacts. That will throw out the timing. Despite its appearance, this is a light duty sewing machine.
FWIIW, I only use my 31-15 for cloth garments and jacket linings and sometimes for thin pigskin wallet interiors. I use walking foot machines (and patchers) for everything else.
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Speed reducer for Juki JNU 1541S
in Leather Sewing Machines
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I have the same box reducer under my post machine table. The rest of the machines have standard 2 or 3 pulley reducers.