Wizcrafts
-
Posts
7,715 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Blogs
Gallery
Posts posted by Wizcrafts
-
-
2 hours ago, Toastie said:
What is a good entry level sewing machine for around 400$ (if one exist). Right now my wife is looking at the Janome 3000
Only used and very old industrial sewing machines sell for the $400 price point. New, they sell for $1000 and up. Tandy stores should have a portable walking foot machine made by Sailrite, that is able to sew 1/4 inch of leather with #92 (15 pound test) bonded nylon thread.
Consew makes a great low cost walking foot machine as the Consew P1206RB-1. It is a quality machine that will do what you want with up to #138 bonded nylon thread (22 pound test), into 3/8 inch of medium temper leather.
Janome doesn't make industrial leather sewing machines. The model 3000 is a plastic body domestic (household) cloth garment sewing machine.
-
Considering the age of that long-obsolete model and what has been done to modify it, I'd say it is what it is. I doubt you will be able to restore it to its original configuration.
Of course, I've been wrong before.
-
5 hours ago, Woolies said:
From what everyone has said, I think these machines would suit my needs: CB 227R, Juki 341, consew 2700, CB341, Cobra 26.
5 hours ago, Woolies said:My first big question is- will the above machines happily sew a couple layers of 1oz leather, and a couple layers of 3 oz leather (as that is what I will primarily be sewing)? Or should I be looking for something even more 'light duty'? Will they also sew canvas, and other non leather materials?
These are probably NOT the type of sewing machine you need to sew very thin or soft leather and other fabrics. It really boils down to the firmness of the leather or other materials.
The whole problem is that compound feed walking foot machines have a small inside foot that pushes down hard directly over a large, often oblong hole or slot in the feed dog. That dog moves inside a large rectangular cutout that can be a trap for thin, soft material. You would be better served by either a straight stitch machine or a dual feed, fixed needle machine. The only possible drawback is that dual (top/bottom) feed machines have teeth on the top and bottom. They will mark the leather on both sides.
5 hours ago, Woolies said:Walking foot (but on this I am not sure if a roller foot would be better?)
Moving along, straight stitch drop feed machines usually have static position needles with a single fixed position presser foot. The needle goes through a small hole in the throat plate. They are just like domestic sewing machines, but much more robust and mounted on 20 x 48 inch tables with big motors underneath. You can get a roller foot conversion kit for most Singer straight stitch and their clones. I had a 96k40 that had a roller foot conversion and used it to sew leather vests that were too soft for my walking foot machines. I now have a Singer 31-15 that handles flat work. The roller rides on the left edge of the needle giving great visibility. It revolves over leather instead of dragging it.
When you aren't sewing leather, a standard flat foot can be installed. They comes in all kinds of styles, like narrow zipper, piping, edge guides, wide toes, left toe, right toe, dohseedoh.
5 hours ago, Woolies said:Max thread: 207 (138 might be fine too)
Foot lift: 3/8" is likely fine although 1/2" would be nice
Not gonna happen on a light duty straight stitch machine. Maybe #92, but more likely #69 bonded nylon and 1/4 to 5/16 inch.
Walking foot machines can handle #138 thread. A few can tension #207 if specifically set up for it. Most do sew 3/8 inch, but that is usually the upper limit. Some newer models can sew 7/16" with #207. But, they will be rough on 2 or 3 ounces and probably eat it.
-
Depending on their conditions, I'd look at the Juki LU-563 or Consew 146rb-1 before the Consew 226. The 226 has a smaller bobbin.
The significant differences between the first two is that the Juki has triple feed, straight stitch and a drop in extra large bobbin, whereas the Consew 146 has top and bottom feed only, a slightly smaller M bobbin and wide zig-zag. The Juki uses Singer 111w155 style feet which are available in a myriad of configurations. There would be fewer presser foot options for the Consew 146 compared to the Juki. Also, the Juki 563 may take heavier thread than the Consew.
-
19 hours ago, Rebel Ed said:
Thanks I would not mind a 100 pack just wouldn’t need to worry for a while I currently run two Adler 30-7 machines and I finally ran out of my left over stock of leather points from my grandparents in the 70’s
If you do buy some 100 packs in different sizes, let us know. I can use more leather 332LLG in leather points in various sizes. There are quite a few owners of Adler 30-7 and 30-70 machines. I'm sure we can help offset your cost.
-
The 241-12 is definitely not for use in leather sewing of any form fashion of kind, without huge modifications. It is a high speed, drop feed only, production sewing machine that only takes thin thread. They are not meant to be run slow.
-
18 hours ago, ensitmike said:
The 2700 is sounding pretty sweet. Everything I've seen online looks amazing as well. That said, it is considerably more expensive.
Do you have an opinion on any other similar machines that might be less expensive?
As I said, the 2700 is a light leather sewing machine. The CB341 (cloned from Juki 341) is much beefier for similar money. It uses a larger M style bobbin and can tension up to #207 thread, which the 2700 cannot handle.
If you can't afford one of the new qualified cylinder arm machines, go used! We have a marketplace section of the forum where people can sell used sewing machines, among other items. Oftentimes, these machines are in very good condition and are being sold because the owners bought newer, more expensive machines to replace them, or have just gone out of business. That's how I acquired my Techsew 2700.
-
Call Campbell Randal Company for their advice on needle and awl vs thread combinations. They will ask what thickness and density you are sewing and what thread you will be using.
I have owned 2 Union Lockstitch machines and always used a full size larger awl than needle. I used to match the thread to the needle by pulling various needle sizes along the top thread until it got tight. If the thread was tightly bonded and lubed I would use a tight fitting needle. If the thread was loosely bonded, or linen with any kind of wax, I chose a larger needle so the thread wouldn't stick inside the barb at pick-off time. The awl has to poke a big enough hole for the lockstitch knots to pull up. Experiment!
-
The Singer 29k2 was probably built sometime during the late 1890s through very early 1900s. Look up the serial number on ismacs, as linked to by Jimi.
The original body color is black.
-
4 hours ago, ensitmike said:
The plan is to sell or trade my Singer 29-4. So I guess my first question is, will I regret losing a patcher if I gain a cylinder arm? Is this a good move?
The ideal machine I have been eyeing is a Techsew 2750 or 2700 Pro
If you intend to open a shop that does leather repairs, you will regret losing the patcher. If you just build things at home, not so much. It is, after all, about 100 years old.
I have a Techsew 2700 and it is a good walking foot machine. It uses standard Singer G size bobbins and takes a plethora of Singer 111w155 feet. The machine can handle bonded thread sizes 46 through 138. Note that the machine pulley isn't very large and it tends to spin really fast. I had to install a 2:1 speed reducer on mine after installing a servo motor that has a 2" pulley.
-
2 hours ago, CowboyBob said:
That is a 9/64"x36 tpi.
I could use a couple of those!
-
1 hour ago, Rebel Ed said:
If any leather point Adler needles are available where would one buy them ?
i have been searching for quite some time and always end up with chisel points for my singers 29k but never find a set of long leather points for my Adler 30-7
I got some from Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines and others from our member Constabulary in Germany. The system is 332 LLG, not to be confused with 332LG.
Adler USA did have some sizes in Schmetz, with leather points, but you may have to order boxes of 100.
-
2 minutes ago, archerydude said:
This one is advertised as a single needle saddle stitch machine. And I have no idea what that is so I asked
If it is a model 100 TN, it uses two inline needles to form the decorative saddle stitches.
-
I believe that the Consew 206RB and P1206RB have the same capacities. The differences are that the P1206 doesn't have a safety clutch and has an oil pump on the bottom and the foot lift is 5/8 inch. It's maximum stitch length is 3.6/inch The 206RB-5 has a safety clutch, is manually oiled and has 9/16 inch foot lift. It's maximum stitch is 2.5/inch. They use the same bobbins and needles. Both can sew up to 3/8 inch. Both are rated at #138 thread, but may handle #207 if properly adjusted by the dealer.
-
I just read in the manual that this model was designed to sew neckties. On page 4 is the following description.
Quote100 TN For necktie closing, joining tie, lining strip and band. Needle travel 1 1/32
inch. Equipped with attachment for centering lining and tape. Machine may be
used with or without tape. Stitch range is 2 1/4 to 3 stitches per inch. -
43 minutes ago, archerydude said:
a union special
Are you aware that it is a twin needle (inline), chainstitch, saddle stitch machine for decorative stitches? You can contact Union Special for more information about the machine's age. Here is a link to a detailed manual for the Union Special 100TN. The copyright date on page two is 1962 for the second edition.
-
Are you asking about a Union Special or an Adler 105?
-
I don't know about parts, but here is a link to a downloadable manual. They may or may not have the hook and other components for this aged machine. If not, try Bob Kovar.
-
Manually oiled sewing machines use what's known as Lily White oil. It is very thin and clear. You can find it in Joann Fabrics and Walmart in 4 ounce squeeze bottles. It is sold in quarts and gallons by all industrial sewing machine dealers. I buy a quart a couple times a year and fill up small oil bottles that have precision tube spouts (also sold by industrial sewing machine dealers).
Being a Class 15 machine there are no usual gears to grease. Everything is crank driven and only requires light weight Lily oil. There are oil holes in all moving crank shafts. Some are marked on the body. Others are underneath the machine and more are inside the head (behind the faceplate). The cranks in the head need lots of drops of oil. Keep a rag under the presser foot for a while after oiling the machine.
You can buy accessory presser feet and bonded thread from any industrial sewing machine dealer, anywhere. They are very common on all Singer straight stitch machines. I buy a lot of parts, thread, needles, bobbins, oil and machines here.
-
Didn't the seller of the machine offer these feet as options?
As for the aftermarket feet, they are all cloned from the harness feet that are standard equipment on Cowboy and Cobra 441 class machines. Juki also offers these feet for their TSC-441. These are all high quality feet. There is no way to know how these aftermarket feet will fit or stand up to the pounding they will experience in normal use.
-
That is a cloth and garment sewing/quilting machine. It is not built to sew leather. It is a light duty domestic sewing machine with drop feed. The pseudo-pod foot is there to help pull long quilts through the machine. I think you should read my sticky article about the type of sewing machine you need to sew leather.
NB: Plastic body domestic sewing machines may be able to sew a few ounces of short leather seams, but will have problems penetrating and feeding the material because it heavy, sticky and dense. Further, they do not handle thread larger than #69 bonded. That is considered entry level for leather sewing.
-
40 minutes ago, dikman said:
edit:I did some searching on the 'net and this is a "basic" servo with no separate electronic control panel, it's all built into the motor housing. 500 rpm is its slowest speed.
Yikes! If true, that's one useless motor unless the OP plans to sew flat out. He'd need a 6:1 speed reduction to sew small leather items. From the looks of it, a 50mm motor pulley would cut those speeds in half. That's okay for longs seams, but not intricate patterns or thick work.
-
The servo motor speeds would be switchable maximums, not minimums.
-
3 hours ago, Silky said:
Does anyone here have a pdf of an operator manual, or other instructions for this model that they could share ?
I found a user's operating manual for the Consew 206RB, printed in 1978. The machine you are bidding on is a -1, which may put it at 1980. Bid accordingly. The current model is the -5.
Union Lockstitch needle plate #615
in Leather Sewing Machines
Posted
ULS made various shapes of slide-on throat plates. I used to have custom throat plates made when I had those machines. Yours is obviously a raised and tapered plate, possibly for footwear. The holes for the edge guide are a bonus because the shorty plate doesn't have slots to mount a swing-away edge guide. You should request a copy of the user's threading and parts manual from Campbell-Randall. Parts are still available, but are not cheap.