Wizcrafts
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Posts posted by Wizcrafts
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First, tighten down the presser foot pressure spring. Most skipped stitches are caused by the leather lifting up with the ascending needle and that spring holds it down. Install a new needle, in case the old one is damaged in some way. Alternately, try using one size larger needle as a larger hole makes it easier to pull up the knots inside the leather without lifting it.
If these suggestions don't fix the problem, your timing may be off and will need tweaking. The problem may be the needle bar moved from impacts, or worse, the hook has become retarded from thread jams. Try the first suggestions before dinking with the timing.
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5 hours ago, Silky said:
Thanks for the info, great !
The 206 is coming up at a local auction. I was considering going up to 4 or 5 hundred if in good clean cond.
Does that seem "ballpark". (I realize condition is key)
Bear in mind that most older industrial sewing machines were setup with clutch motors, and that many had larger motor pulleys to maximize the speed (time is money in upholstery and garment production). If the machine you bid on has a clutch motor, and you can't control it properly, you're looking at spending another $135 to $150 for a proper servo motor with a small pulley (example) and the required shorter v-belt, plus the disassembly/reassembly time and scratched fingers to swap them out. Factor this in when evaluating the machine.
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55 minutes ago, Gymnast said:
I was a bit suppriced in my test, that I got almost no splinter at the bottom. I suppose, that the small hole in my needle plate helps to limit that problem.
Soft wood yields the best results when a nail or needle punctures all the way through.
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8 hours ago, Gymnast said:
I notice that even Wiz back then wrote a comment, that he once sew plywood with a singer 15-91 with a 110/18 needle and V69 thread.
That was a soft wood 12" ruler I sewed. It was 1/8 inch thick. It wasn't much denser than saddle skirting.
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A Union Lockstitch machine can punch through plywood. They were often used to sew luggage and cases in their day. Also, the Campbell Randall and Landis 3 and 16 can do this task. The reason is these are all needle and awl machines with powerful continuous run motors and giant flywheel pulleys. These old machines still cost thousands of dollars.
Aside from the needle and awl machines, I believe that a #26 or #27 needle would be needed in a closed eye needle machine, like the Cowboy and Cobra 441 clones. Or, maybe a #25 round point instead of leather point. Either way, the material should be glued to the wood before punching through or the wood will splinter on the bottom. If an upholstery machine was used, the hole in the feed dog would have to be large enough to clear a #25 needle. Also, the hook might need to be moved further away to clear the oversize needle.
I think the OP would be better off drilling the holes on a drill press, or with a hand drill.
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Most walking foot sewing machines have a hole in the moving feed dog that has to clear the moving needle, which may or may not be/stay centered in the hole. Further, the hook and its deflector shield, if present, has to clear the largest needle approved for use in the specs and still sew with a smaller needle. So,m a machine that is spec'd for a maximum #24/180 needle has a large feed dog hole for that needle to pass without making contact and enough clearance between the hook/deflector shield on one side and the side of the feed dog on the other side of the needle to avoid fatal contact. It doesn't mean that the mechanism will sew with #207 thread. It may or mayn't do so.
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3 hours ago, jrprottas said:
Do any of the major dealers (Cobra, Cowboy, Toro, Techsew, etc) offer sales or promotions in the US during the fall season?? Im getting close to pulling the trigger on a cylinder arm that sews 1/2- 7/8".
As always, open to a deal on a used or re'furbished machine
I doubt it, but I'm not the one trying to sell off existing sewing machines before the new tariffs kick in on Chinese goods. When that happens the prices will shoot UP, not down. My sources say that is right around the corner, so don't wait too much longer to buy a machine (if it was made in China). OTOH, Juki machines made in Japan and Adlers made in Europe should probably remain at the same prices.
We have a Marketplace section where members sell their used leather sewing and cutting machines. That's where you will find the best prices.
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49 minutes ago, Bellflory said:
Thanks for the info Matt. I also bought a Singer 168W101 at the same time. It looks to be complete except for a broken timing belt.
I bought a 168w101 from Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines. Why don't you call them and ask how much they would charge for a timing belt for it? The number is: 866-362-7397
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I've moved this to Sewing Leather where hand stitching is discussed. There is no machine involved in this matter.
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9 minutes ago, gtdewbre said:
Do you like the Cowboy as well as the Adler?
Well, yeah! I own a Cowboy CB4500. My only Adler is a 30-7 motorized patcher.
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Before any advice can be given we need to know the sewing machine make and model, the thickness of the strap edges, the size of thread and size and type of the needle used (e.g., round point, LR, LL, or Diamond point). -
Check out these affordable and well spoken of Consew walking foot machines:
These machines have large M style bobbins and can sew 3/8 inch with #138 thread. Since they are clones of the ancient Singer 111w155, they take the same commonly available feet. There are dozens of different feet, including piping foot sets, edge guide outer feet, single toe outer feet and feet with teeth (great for grabbing slippery vinyl).
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2 hours ago, amandabstewart said:
Wizcrafts: so the needle would pierce the leather, dip into the wax pot below, and then go back up, correct?
Here is a link to a Landis 1 manual topic, posted by our member, Uwe, who scanned an original Landis 1 manual and posted it on the forum.
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10 hours ago, amandabstewart said:
what thread and fabric would you recommend as a first trial? heavy denim?
These old harness stitchers were made before synthetic thread was available. They were built to tension linen thread run through a wax pot containing hot or liquid beeswax. The wax hardens after a while, both inside the pot and on the thread. Waxed linen thread can withstand decades of use and abuse and still hold leather items together.
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There is no comparison between an Adler 30 and a 205 series. They are entirely different animals! Yours looks like my model 30-7.
The class 30 is a medium duty "patcher" for repairs to shoes, boots and purses and for sewing embroidered patches over pockets on vests, or onto jacket sleeves. That's what I do with my Adler 30-7. It is limited to no more then 3/8 inch of leather (models 30-7 and 30-70 only, using extra long system 332 LLG needles), with #138 bonded thread and has top feed only. A full "large" bobbin of #138 thread only sews about 5 belts, or guitar straps, or rifle slings around the perimeter.
The Adler 205-370 and 374 are compound (triple) feed walking foot machines made to sew 3/4 inch of leather with very heavy thread. A full bobbin of #277 thread can sew three or four times as much as the large bobbin patcher. It can handle up to #415 bonded thread.
The Typical 441 Juki clone is similar to my Cowboy CB4500. These machines sew at least 3/4 inch with up to #415 thread. They are much cheaper than an Adler 205. Sadly, Adler stopped building that series a few years ago. I would go check out the Adler before investing in the Typical. If the Adler is in good sewing condition, it is the smoother machine with better tolerances.
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2 hours ago, Constabulary said:
Adler 205 came in different subclasses - what subclass are you talking about?
Right again. The Adler should be either a 205-370 or a 205-374.
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16 hours ago, CowboyBob said:
Wiz,they are talking about the internal timing belt.(Your up too late!!) LOL
O. I repent in dust and ashes!
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If you can afford the Adler, buy it.
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In a nutshell, there is a thumbscrew on a sliding tab that rides on the back of the legs that the presser foot mounts to. Raise the foot all the way with the hand lift lever on the back, then loosen the thumbscrew and lower the sliding stitch regulator block until it just touches the top of the raise foot. Tighten the thumbscrew. This setting gives the maximum stitch length your machine can produce in its existing condition. Factory spec is 5 stitches per inch into about 6 ounces of leather (a typical boot upper thickness). Make sure the pressure spring along the back is exerting pressure on the foot or the stitch length will be too short. The feed is done by the teeth on the foot under pressure from that long flat spring on the back.
If the maximum stitch length is significantly less than 5 per inch, the feed motion bell crank needs to be replaced.
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8 hours ago, scubadiverberry said:
I just bought a belt for my 189a. Do I have to take the pin out of the part that the handwheel goes on? I need to get the bushing off the main shaft to put the belt on. The belt I got was an Adler 059 00 214 0. I was told it'll fit, I'll have to wait and see!
LOL. No, just tilt the head back to loosen the belt and lift it off the pulleys. Install the new belt with the head still tilted, loosen the motor position nuts, then set the head back upright. Adjust the motor position nuts to get about 1/2 inch deflection in the middle of the belt.
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There is no walking foot attachment for industrial sewing machines. A sewing machine either is or isn't a walking foot machine. Yours isn't. Make it clear in your ad text, wherever that ad exists, that this is a high speed machine for sewing garments and tailoring. That will eliminate buyers looking to sew leather and attract seamstresses and tailors who can actually put it to some use.
If you want to sell it on our forum (unlikely), place the ad in the Marketplace section, under Sewing Equipment > Used. List your price and terms of sale and your photos. This section is for discussing leather sewing machines only. This is NOT a leather sewing machine.
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Can you try this without leather or top thread in the needle? Try to isolate where the rubbing noise is emanating from.
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48 minutes ago, Se2013 said:
Hello! So I am wanting to make the switch to a machine from hand sewing. I mostly make wallets, book covers, bags etc.. I have a budget of around $2,000. I also would like to make guitar straps and belts. But I am not sure if the same machine will work for those.
I realize that the thicker material would work best on a bigger machine and ideally you would have two machines to do both of these tasks. Given the budget, what would you all get and do?
Machines for medium work I am looking at: CB-341 and the Techsew 2700 . I would like a cylinder head machine with a table attachment. I like to added flexibility of the cylinder head to get into tight spaces.
Any recommendations?
The two you mentioned are fine for what you described as your intended work. Note, that the 2700 is limited to a maximum thread size of v138 and uses a "standard" G size bobbin. It is a light duty walking foot machine. I use mine mostly with #69 and #92 thread because I have a CB4500 for heavier thread and thicker leather.
The CB341 is a heavier duty machine that has a larger M style bobbin and a hook that can handle #207 thread. The beefed up construction and bigger hook make it a good choice for a starter machine for projects 3/8 inch thick.
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I get sewing machine parts and accessories from Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines.
Cobra class 3 and 4 Skipping stitch on thick leather
in Leather Sewing Machines
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Glad to help a fellow Michigander!