aermotor

17 rounder 1 1/4 inch width 13/16 depth 4 3/4 tall Plastic spacer takes inch off this 10 round Same but 3 3/4 tall

Nice carving,and your bargrounding really sets it off.Your brown color initials tie in with everything.

Holy halter, Batman!

I have been using Polyester Nu Bond - Size 6 Cord (White) - from Synthetic Thread Company in Bethlehem, PA. I use it for hand-stitching, and it has worked very well. I would like to purchase more of it, but my supplier no longer carries it. Does anyone know of a source for this thread? Or something similar? I think it is comparable to a Size 415 thread. Thank you, Aermotor

I know that a lot of trees are ordered with 1 1/4" or 1 1/2" cantle dish measurement for cowboy saddles. I would like to get the opinions and/or preferences of the makers on this forum for these two measurements. Thank you, Aermotor

CW, Thanks for posting the information about the shims on the swell covers. For the past ten years, I've tried to read all of the instructions I could find, and I have never ran across that one. I really appreciate it. Thanks, Aermotor

Jed, I agree with everyone. You did a great job figuring your first pattern. Keep up the good work! Regarding the Barry King bargrounders, you might try a size 30. It is a good medium size. I enjoyed seeing your work. It is always good to see someone starting out with good tools and good techniques. Aermotor

A lot of us simply refer to Bob Likewise's book as The Bible. No disrespect to the Holy Bible, but it is that important to the history and function of the Sheridan Style. Happy New Year, everyone.

Hey, you guys at the top of the ladder! Stop throwing that stuff down. Its hitting me on the head down here on the bottom rung, lol.

Ross, I think your big swells look cool. I would like to see a picture from behind to see the shape of them. Under the swells, the cut-out on the seat jockey looks a little narrow. From a cowboy's point of view, I like that, though. If it gets very wide there, it puts a bind against a rider's leg. Also, I like the background that you used in the photograph. It really shows your saddle well. Very nice saddle. Aermotor

Troy, thanks for posting such high quality work for the rest of us to see. It sure sets a high goal for me. I always like to see the pretty bar-grounding with the Sheridan style. Regards, Aermotor.

Richard and J.W. Thank you for replying. You went right to the subjects I was interested in discussing. I use the two-piece, metal strainer. It is easy for me to cut out and make. It seems to make a good foundation for a real flat, seat back in the pin bone area. I tried his modified plate rig design on my last saddle. I liked the strength factor of it. Especially, where it attaches to the bar right behind the stirrup leather slots. I was wondering if any of you saddlemakers think this would weaken the tree in this area? Also, I really like his method of cutting the skirts at the back. It makes them butterfly up a little bit - as to not rub a horse's hip back there. I'll quit rambling now. Thanks again. Aermotor

There has been a lot of discussion on saddlemaking instruction in this forum, but I haven't seen anything on the wonderful articles by Pete Gorrell in The Leather Crafters and Saddlers Journal. His articles started in May of 1999 and ran for several years. I found his ideas on making a ground seat very informative. Also, his articles on riggings, skirts and seats were interesting. I would just like to know if anyone else has used these articles for reference? And I would appreciate any comments. Thanks, Aermotor

Nice looking saddle, Ty. Thanks for posting. I like the shape of your seat jockeys and full fenders. Lots of guys are making too narrow of fenders that don't put any leather under a guy's knees. I'm curious about your Swanke tree. Is it made with northwest bars or Arizona bars? Thanks - Aermotor.

Jeff, I think the dextrin and the wheat paste are very similar. I think the wallpaper paste may have mold inhibitors in it. I've only heard the older makers refer to it as wheat paste anyway. Bob Marrs in Amarillo is the one that recommended it to me, so I know that it has been proven. Thanks, Aermotor

Bruce, I use a wheat wallpaper paste. It was recommended to me by another saddlemaker. The advantage over rubber cement is that if the saddle ever gets wet, the paste will reattach, and the rubber cement will not. I use the "Golden Harvest" brand of wallpaper paste. It comes in an 8-ounce box. I mix about one-quarter cup at a time...thinned down to a gravy texture. After gluing the wool skins down, I lay a saddle blanket over them and weight them down for several days to allow proper drying. This is also easy to work with on horn wraps and swell covers. Aermotor

My father-in-law is a friend of Ken Allen. After reading this post, we contacted Mr. Allen and requested permission to post his telephone number in this forum. Mr. Allen was pleased that interest had be expressed and was happy to release his number. He is still in business and would welcome your calls. His number is: 575.607.5342 He requested that you contact him during the evening hours. I have one of his stitching horses and a draw down stand. I can't say enough good things about them and would highly recommend them to you. Aermotor

Thanks for your input, Art. The Classic Cub caught my eye, because it is American made. I spoke on the telephone with Mr. Luberto, and he is several weeks out from production. Also, he said that he has made a few improvements from the original prototype. And he thinks it will have a similar stitch to the Classic Stitcher. I hope it will be very successful and will give China some competition. Thanks again. Aermotor

I received my "The Leather Crafters & Saddlers Journal" today, and I noticed that Luberto Manufacturing, Inc. is advertising their Classic Cub Manual Stitcher in the March/April 2010 issue. Its been about eight months or so since I've seen it advertised. Has anyone tried this machine or have news about it? Thanks. Aermotor

Thank you, Mike and Clint, for your input. I apologize for my delay in responding; I have been in the process of switching ISPs. I will definitely buy a transparent ruler, and I appreciate the tip on restamping with the maker's stamp after finishing the basket stamping. Also, if anyone is interested, Bruce Johnson has a great article on Page 2, Article 21. It was very helpful to me as well. Thanks, everyone.

What is the correct way to place initials, a brand or a maker's stamp into the center of a basket stamping project? Thanks in advance for your help.