Campchair

Make a sturdy backing "box" out of 2 pieces of 3/4" plywood glued together with a wood or metal rim running around it. Make sure it is supported 100% on the back side and the countertop weight slab will last forever. I have one I've used for 20+ years. Don't set rivets or snaps on it, though, and don't use a maul too "energetically". Get a piece of laminated solid wood countertop for that. Get to the right folks at anywhere they actually cut granite for counters, and they will usually let you have all you want. It's a disposal problem for them. Feeding the donation jar is excellent idea, too. Explain that you are not their competition, and they usual are very helpful. And, if you have a countertop job, go back to them and show you remember kind folks who took care of you.

Second that. Buy all the Stohlman books. They are worth every cent you spend, as they have tips, best methods, advice, and the like. They might be a tad dated, (CB radio case, and case for flash cubes... ), but the basic principles they outline are timeless. And, in his "How to Make Holsters" (or something like that..) he shows exactly how to lay out a holster pattern. This methodology is transferrable to knives, flashlight cases, mace carriers, ....anything. And, buy all the manila file folders you can afford. Legal ones are best; overlap and tape together if your project is really BIG. I have several folks with office type operations that call me when they clean out their files. (Dr's, Dentists, county courthouses, and law offices,) The used ones with notes scribbled in and on them are just as good as new ones. I keep a stack about 3" thick all the time just for patterns.

Anyone out there know of a good source for 1Oz. to 1 1/2Oz. leather by the side? I use it a lot for bags and liners, and my old source dried up. Only interested in top quality full veg-tanned, and I only want top-end stuff, preferably from USA or English sources. Just need stuff that will mold and dye well, and wear better than the South American and Asian stuff. And, I don't mind paying what it's worth for a top quality products.

Anyone out there know of a good source for 1Oz. to 1 1/2Oz. leather by the side? I use it a lot for bags and liners, and my old source dried up. Only interested in top quality full veg-tanned, and I only want top-end stuff, preferably from USA or English sources. Just need stuff that will mold and dye well, and wear better than the South American and Asian stuff. And, I don't mind paying what it's worth for a top quality products.

Good to see someone from 'Ala-Bam" here too! Good luck, and drop me a line if you have any questions. Done a lot of leather holsters, sheaths, and gun accessories, and every time I pick up my round knife and awl, if I don't learn something new, I'm not paying attention! Welcome

That might work at your area, but I don't think that would work where I am based. I'm in the gun repair business, and I do leather items too, along with restoring fitted cases and specialized historical reproductions of shooting related leather items. I routinely hand out my business cards, but usually only to prospective customers I have already spoken with about a need they have. Cards are expensive, even if you print them 8 to sheet of Wal-Mart card stock on your printer. It takes time to cut them out so they look good, time better spent working on your craft, and the perforated stock for do-it-your-self cards is fairly pricy itself. The best use for your business card (in my very humble opinion,) is so the already interested potential customer can have an accurate source of your address, phone, Social Media site, website, etc, without having to look up or to try to remember your contact info. This is true even with Social Media. I can't count the times I used someone's card to enter the (correct and accurate) info in my electronic resources. I used to leave cards at a lot of places. I saw them used as notecards, to write grocery lists on, as scratch paper, and so on. I asked customers about how they heard of me, as I don't really advertise that much. I never could directly trace money coming in the door to me leaving a card somewhere. However, that being said, I ALWAYS include a card (or two..) with all invoices and jobs, and I can see lots of direct connections to where these were given out and a lot of repeat business. ("....can't remember the guy's name but I have his card here in my wallet....)

Send some photos of what you have in mind. I get brass parts made out of investment castings for my own business, which is high-end oak-and-leather double rifle and shotgun fitted cases. I have to make my own because the old brass hardware makers were driven out of business by the Chinese. My caster can do copper. Q: Which alloy? Pure copper is VERY soft (as you know). There are some very high copper alloys that are much better for parts that will be subjected to stress, like clasps, D Rings, buckles, etc. that need resistance to bending. Check out the alloys and see what you might need. Mos are 80% or better pure copper and look and "weather" identicaly, but won't bend or break unexpectedly. TANDY: and anyone else that is importing "hardware" from China: I know EXACTLY what you are talking about. They use zinc castings, made in metal permanent moulds in high speed casting machines. I once worked making and repairing the metal moulds these machines utilize. To the Chinese suppliers, all "metal" is the same, and "Brass" describes a color, not a material. Most of this hardware is designed to accomodate the "fad and fashon" driven market, and is only expected to hold up a month or two till the next fad hits. Most of is dirt cheap, too. After 2-3 months of use, you can tell it, too. Google up "Alibaba" and search for handbag hardware. Interesting......sad, but interesting.

See if you can find an old (or new) railroad spike. Locate a bench grinder, and grind (or get someone to) the head so the side flanges are flat against the square shank. Take a turn or two across the head, (the part the hammer hits) and polish it up with coarse emery cloth. 80 Grit is fine, it does not have to be prefect, just get the rough areas out. Round the sharp edges while you are at it. To use, tighten the shank in a bench vise, insert the rivet with a pair of needle-nosed pliers down into the hole at the bottom of the pouch, and slip it over the "stake". Peening the rivet is easy, as you have a solid anvil under the head. I make "Safari" type ammo pouches and I've found this homemede "stake" tool, can reach 'way down into a completed pouch and is very handy to set those copper "burrs" (Rivets). I have made up several in different widths for applications needing a rivet set at the bottom of a sewed-up pouch, and have found them to be a lifesaver. There is a type Confederate musket cap pouch that has one copper rivet at the bottom, and it was a real pain to set. Now, it's easy with this tool. Campchair

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I do hand sewing with waxed thread a lot, and I've found a very LIGHT (very sparing) mix of 50% DISTILLED water, 30% acetone, and 20% grain alcohol (Everclear) will remove just about anything before dieing with spirit dye. Use the mix very sparingly - do not soak the article in it. I have gotten "specs" like what is shown in the photos from the wax on the thread, and from various bits and pieces left on the workbench. Now, there will be some replies that the mix above will destroy the natural oils in the leather and make it prone to drying and cracking, etc, and this is absolutely correct. However, the spirit dye will do the same thing, as it has alcohol in the mix to degrease the leather so the pigments will penetrate and color the leather. It is necessary to oil and or restore the natural oils in the leather afterwards anyway, after dieing as the spirit dye dries it out and leaves it hard. I've found the extra surface degreasing won't matter that much. I make a mix of beeswax and neetsfoot oil that i mix up myself. Heat the beeswax in a tin or a Pyrex vessel. Add the neetsfoot oil a little at a time, letting it cool down and get hard. Add oil till it is about the consistency of saddle soap. To apply, heat till liquid, brush on, and drive it into the leather with a hair dryer (or a heat gun if you have one - BE CAREFUL AND DO NOT "COOK" THE LEATHER! Itat is irreversable. Practice on scrap first. ) I have some personal items that are 30+ years old that were dyed with this prep used beforehand, and they are pliable and soft as when they were made. I don't think it makes much difference if you sew before or after dieing, unless you don't want to color the thread. If it is properly waxed, it won't absoeb that much anyway. However, if you want very light stitching (as on a holster) that contrasts with the darker leather, you need to sew after. NOTE: ALWAYS use distilled water as minerals will color and sometings react with the dye. This is unpredictable and tends to happen at the worst times. Also, degrease any rags or applicators before applying the degreaser to the leather. Some daubers seem to be oily, especially the sheepskin pads as they contain a lot of the natural lanolin.

Check with Mast Harness. They make a lot of stainless steel buckles, and although they are made for harness and halter use, some look really sharp when used on a belt. Some of the high-end English equestrian clothing suppliers have done this for years, and that stuff ain't cheap! They have the "Clipped-Corner" square gun/money belt buckle you see in the "Packin' Iron" book in SS. I have several, and they are excellent. Campchair

I need a small piece of alligator or crocodile leather large enough to cut out a couple of watchbands. Any out there? Also. anyone had any experience with these two materials or have suggestions of a good reference source dealing with working these two leathers. Thanks, Campchair

Chris, I think what is happening here is the wax is melting and carrying the pigment out. The application was in a small dip tank. I use it a lot for oil dye as otherwise, I have problems getting good coverage. The original was dark, dark brown, very solid colored, no "toning"and I think it would run out if I sat it in the hot sun. However, it's in a museum, and that's not possible to investigate if this might be the case. I believe the original was soaked in dark harness oil at some period of it's life. It was made in the Smokey Mountain region about 175 years ago and was handed down in one family. Anything is possible. Coating the repo is not possible as this is to be an exact stitch-for-stitch replica. Wonder if I could set it out in the sun for a couple of hours and scrub it down with acetone? I've tried this before with fairly good results. I have a feeling I have made the replica a tad too good; it duplicated some of the original's faults! I usually just use the beeswax/neetsfoot oil mix on spirit dyed items. I've always had really good results softening the leather back down, but I was afraid to use spirit dye on leather this thin, so I went for the oil. The customer wanted it to be "greasy", so I did the wax/oil and the trouble began. I'll try the acetone and see if it will get it down to where it won't rub off and report.Campchair

Any suggestions for removing the pigment left on the surface when Fiebling's Oil Dye is applied pretty heavily so as to get good coverage. Just finished a Southern Mountain type flintlock rifleman's bag (copy of original) and had to really pile it on to duplicate the very dark brown color of the original. Original appeared to have been dyed with harness oil with tint added, like we use now. Very dark brown, almost black, with a slightly "greasy" feel. I dyed it several times, then applied 50/50 neatsfoot & beeswax dressing, which usually does not react with any dye; just usually softens the leather. I've rubbed it down with clean rags to blot the excess pigment and dressing several times after setting it in out the hot Alabama sun, (It's already 90+ here) and still get rub-off. Would hard scrubbing several times using saddle soap well rubbed while it is hot help? This has happened before. Used the oil dye because the original was very, very supple de-haired calf, about 2-3Oz.wt., "greasy" feeling, and I didn't want to go the re-softening route after using spirit dye. I'm about to the Acetone + frustration stage.... CAMPCHAIR

Check with LeatherUnlimited. (www.leatherunltd.com/) They have really good deals on scrap pieces. Also, they have lots of fairly good (foreign-tanned) veg-tan in lots of different weights for reasonable prices. It ain't Hermann Oak, and some of it is pretty rough, but that will teach her how to select from various parts of the hide. Occasionally, they have really good specials. Their shipping is VERY fair, too. Lots better than T---y! And, some of it is really good. They will work with you on selection; really nic folks, too. (No, I am not an employee/partner........) CAMPCHAIR

Big Poppa,Have just finished up 50 buckles. See my latest post. Campchair

I've found the "Blue Guns" are very undersized. I got several, but gave up on them entirely, as the plastic material apparently shrinks at different rates depending on what lot of plastic they are using at the time. They are designed for police training, and the exact size doesn't really matter that much, not like it does when you are making a holster for a duty officer or for CCW carry. Since I have a gun shop, I usually have access to (or can borrow) a used Glock,Springfield/Walther/whatever and I do my fitting to the actual piece. If this is for a really big order, or for something you make a lot of, you could either (if the laws in the area where you are located permit) purchase one of your own (new or used). If you are doing this for a living, the price COULD be deducted from your business profits as a "fixture" or Pattern Piece". That sort of item can be depreciated over time, just like tools, etc. Then you would have the real McCoy to use. An old holster maker once told me about the fellow he learned his craft from. He located an aluminum foundry and borrowed (with a payback deal in holsters!) used guns from several nearby shops, friends, and even the local police department (This was a while ago; different world...) which he used as patterns, and had aluminum replicas made of the more popular models he made. He said they had to be wrapped in masking tape to allow for the shrinkage of the aluminum, (10% or so) but when he got through, he had some everlasting patterns! He did a lot of "bartering" in this deal; said he made holsters for free really steady for about 6 weeks or so, but it was well worth it. . Campchair

OK all, I FINALLY have 50 ready. Just "Private Mail" me your addresses and I'll drop them in the mail. I don't charge "handling fees" as I usually just use the USPS One-Fee gets it all and gets it there" envelopes. I've attached some photos. They are made of .130" 300 series Stainless Steel. They were laser cut so the edges are really good with no appreciable burrs. I'm deburring them anyway with some needle files; just my nature, I suppose. The prongs can be bent a tad more if the leather is a bit thick. The finished measurements are 1" wide X 2" long. The prongs are a hefty .250" wide, so they will accomodate a pretty good-sized "belly". Price is $4.50ea. + postage ($2.00?). Better order several as the postage is $2.00 on one or 20. I have the set-up perfected and can crank them out pretty quickly at 50 per lot with a couple of day's notice. And,..these were made 100% right here in Alabama, USA!! Sincertely, Campchair (And with apologies for being so tardy. Lots of water over the dam since April, 2011, when this first came up. Lots of loss, too)

Hey Big Poppa Leather, I have 50 Mechanic's Buckles being blanked out as I write this. 300 series stainless steel; 1" wide X 2.5" long. 2 prongs. Estimated cost is about $4.50Ea. Shipping is actual cost, your method as preferred. I'd like a minimum order of 5, if possible. Will have photos (hopefully) by end of this week. Sound OK? Sorry about the delays. Much illness issues. CAMPCHAIR See below - Campchair

Hi all, Campchair here, Apologies all around, but in addition to the "Eldercare" responsibilities I had before Christmas, another of my older realitives suffered a hemmorage that nearly cost him his life. We were in the ICU unit of the local hospital from about a week before Christmas, till about 2 weeks ago. He's now out and in rehab in the same facility as the first realitive. (Leave the first room, walk down the hall, repeat...) To put it mildly, my plate has been a bit full, and lately, my life has not been my own. However, I finished up the drawing for the Mechanic's buckle, and I am in the process of cutting out 50 in the shop. They are being made out of 300 Series Stainless Steel (NO rust). I made it with two in-line prongs about 1/4 In wide, with the plate 1 Inch wide X 2 In. long, and I believe it will do nicely for about any width or weight belt. The price will be $4.50ea. plus shipping. (Shipping is actual cost - I don't believe in the advertise cheap/ship high Ebay formula!) Anyway, I should have something to show you in about a week. Campchair

Hey Fellows, Campchair here, I have had some sickness and serious "Elder Care" issues in the family, and I have had to give my all to this, but I have finally gotten some breathing room and I will get back on this ASAP. I made up some shop drawings while sitting in the hospital where i included some improvements I noted were called-for in the last "ready-made" Mechanic's Buckles I used. I am finally getting some time in which I can sit down and hammer out a prototype to check the fits, prong spacing, etc. I will go for a quantity of about 100 or so, and post a quote as soon as I can determine what my selling price can be. (Don't worry - I work pretty cheap. Quantity = less per piece. Xtras go into inventory. Field of Dreams principle: Make it and they will order...) It's been hectic, and the problems arose the day after my last post. But, again, I'm still on this and will post something real soon. BTW - these make fantastic belts for hunters. I started using one because I noticed the buckle on my former belt was scratching the hand-rubbed finish on my own rifle when it lay across my lap on the deer stand. The one I made for this belt was a Heavy-Duty model with about .5" long prongs made of .125" material spaced 1" apart. Bad thing is one of my hunt club members talked me out of it! (For a fee...of course...) Sincerely, Campchair Hey fellows, see my latest reply at the bottom of this post. Campchair

WOW!!!! Let me get back into town and I'll give this some serious sharp pencil consideration!! Also, if anyone has a particular type or design for the Mechanic's buckle they prefer, (I have seen a couple of different ones over the years,) send it or some good photos (It'd help to jot down some measurements, also.) and that would help. (It will be returned) The ones I last made (I believe I made a dozen or so..) were for a 1 3/4" wide HD belt for jeans wear. I have also made one up to fit a 1" wide extra stiff plainclothes gun belt. (Detective wore it behind regular dress belt, supporting inside pants holster. No, I wouldn't want to, but that's what he wanted...) I like to make them so they go about to the edge stitching so it won't "wiggle" with use and eventually wear the hook slots out. The 1 3/4" belt ones were about 1 1/2" wide; the 1" was 3/4" [if memory serves.] I'm an old burnt-out tool-and-die-maker turned Engineer that wants to be a gunsmith when he grows up (=Retires). Been doing the gunsmithing/holster/cases/making... whatever out of metal, wood, or leather in my spare time for about 40+ years now. Want to go back to doing it full time but on what I want to work on! I'll do a PM to each of you. Anyway, if these are just not anywhere on the market, it might be a good thing to make on a semi-regular basis. More = less expense. Also, see my other posts - I need that push-button oak-and-leather case lock mighty bad. If someone out there has an old raggedy fitted case for their 100+ Grand Purdy SXS "Bespoke" shotgun they have just been kicking around down at the country manor and the Butler is starting to complain about it always being in the way, well, here's your chance. Maybe we can trade. (Seriously, I DO need at least one on or off the case for copy purposes. I promise no harm will come to it. ) Campchair

Actually, the type I need is like the ones above. They are in the center of the case; just under the handles. Unlock, they function as a pushbutton catch. Insert key, they secure the case (at least from "honest folks".) I need 50 or so. If they are not available, I'd like to buy an old one for copying. Heck, I'll even buy the case for one. I build and repair oak-and-leather cases, so I'm familiar with Abbey and the beautiful Liston Flip Catches. I use them and admire the craftsmanship. I just haven't gotten one of this type in a very long time; should have copied one when I had the last one in the shop. Campchair

Kevin, Stainless it is - I have to go out of town the first part of next week, but I'll get on it ASAP when I get back. The design I usually make is where the backplate is narrower so they can be folded inside the end and the edges sewn to secure them. However, if you have another design, send photo. Q: What width? Will reply pm. Campchair