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busted

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Posts posted by busted

  1. Posted · Report reply

    I am having a hard time finding rivets, grommets, eyelets in a FLAT BLACK color.

    Any suggestions on where to look for these?

    Thanks!

    I don't know about the grommets and eyelets but I have a coffee can full of 1/4" working length 1/8th" diameter black tubular rivets. I think it is around 5 pounds or so. I haven't used them in a while

    if you are interested I wold have to find them. I have to much stuff under my bench.

  2. Posted · Edited by busted · Report reply

    http://belleville.ki...AdIdZ306327845.

    I don't know exactly where you are located but you mentioned "here in Toronto, Canada" This machine should do what you want to do.

    Good luck.

    The link I posted for the Pfaff sewing machine does not work. You will find the sewing machine at Kijiji.ca loaction is Belleville, Ont. type in Phaff sewing machine at search bar. Wizcraft & semun are right about that portable walking foot machine. You will be disappointed at its claimed performance.

  3. Posted · Report reply

    Looking to buy a new machine for making Leather Bags, Totes, Wallets and knife sheaths. Want to spent under a grand and have some portability if possible. And use 138 nylon thread, on 4 to 8 oz veg tan leather. Looked at this:

    BARRACUDA 2000U-33 online

    http://www.reliablec...IG-ZAG/2000U-33

    Its 499 here in Toronto, Canada. Wondering if that's a good machine for my purposes. Want to have good slow control and walking foot with lock-stitch. Kinda new to this whole machine sewing thing as I've been doing all hand sewing and it takes forever to finish a project. Any suggestions greatly appreciated. Don't want to be sorry I bought the wrong machine. I read the sticky on leather sewing machines but seems to me the entry level there is 1500 plus.

    http://belleville.kijiji.ca/c-buy-and-sell-business-industrial-Pfaff-Industrial-Sewing-Machines-W0QQAdIdZ306327845.

    I don't know exactly where you are located but you mentioned "here in Toronto, Canada" This machine should do what you want to do.

    Good luck.

  4. Posted · Report reply

    How do you get 12 foot flat reins out of a 7 foot cowhide?

    I am a newbie, obviously, and have been asked to make some flat reins that are 12 foot long.

    Where do I start? My hides are only 7 feet long, makes sense to get 12 foot you need to splice or join them somewhere, right?

    Help.

    12 foot is no problem. You could make continuous 31 feet if the hide is large enough. The hide needs to be around 20 sq feet or more. Cut all of the odd shapes off of the hide.

    Cut the belly off too. Keep the back straight and round both ends of the hide kind'a like a very large oval. Don't try and make a pattern of any kind just a large oval. Once you get to this step you need to make up your mind as to the width of the reins. 1/2", 5/8", 3/4", or 1". Keep the hide on a table so it doesn't bounce up and down on ya'. Cut them as long as you want and as many as you want.

    A creaser is a great help when you are finished cutting and edging. Have fun.

  5. Posted · Edited by busted · Report reply

    I am looking for a place that will sell leather by the sqft, not priced by the sqft. The reason I need a piece this small is because this will be my first ever endeavor in leather working and I don't want to buy a large to find out it's not for me. I would prefer black deerskin if possible.

    What is your address?

    vernonnichols@lycos.com I am sure I can spare a square foot of leather.I don't have deer skin. Veg tan only.

  7. Posted · Report reply

    I think this is the right place for this topic. www.govliquidations.com has for sale a new in the box Consew 206RB-5 in Ohio.

    The bid on it is 150 right now. The auction closes tomorrow if anyone is interested. at the search bar type in sewing machine

  9. Posted · Edited by busted · Report reply

    Hello all,

    I'm new to this forum, but let me say how impressed I have been with the amount of knowledge and info available here... thanks to everyone that's contributed!

    I'm in the market for a heavy-duty machine... problem is, I'm not really sure models I should be considering.

    I will be making safety harnesses, sewing through fairly thick work consisting of foam, layers of webbing, etc. Walking foot mandatory. Pretty high lift foot would be really useful, and a large bobbin would be nice but isn't mandatory. Reverse IS mandatory. I also require a machine that can use 207 thread.

    I have some experience on a Juki LU-563, but am told it will not sew 207 thread? I could also use a higher lifting foot than the 563, although I was able to squeeze stuff under there with some effort.

    I did some shopping and was told with certainty (by a salesman mind you) that the Juki 1508NH was THE machine for me... but at ~$2400, it's a bit out of my range. I've also been told not to buy new?

    Any advice on some models to consider would be GREATLY appreciated!!! Or if you have a 1508NH (used), or something appropriate for my needs, that you'd be willing to part with????

    I'm located in Utah, but am willing to travel for the right machine. Thanks so much for your help....

    -Ryan

    You should get in touch with the gentleman that runs a harness shop in Troy, Montana. I don't know your limit of "willing to travel". He has some sewing machines that might me what you are looking for. Northwest Harness is the name of the shop.The last time I talked to him he had a couple of used Juki 441's.

  10. Posted · Report reply

    Thanks for the replies. I found them both, $1.50 each from one supplier and $2.00 each from another. I may have to use them, but they appear to have the same size head on each side, besides being pretty expensive. Each sling uses 7 of them :bawling:

    You should call Beiler's Mfg. and Supply on page 58 of their catalog is item 4125 Button Stud & Rivet they are .25 cents apiece for the first 100 they come in solid brass or nickle plated brass. Their phone is 717 768 0174

    post-12567-075283800 1314916328_thumb.jp

    post-12567-094720400 1314916342_thumb.jp

  11. Posted · Report reply

    Thanks for your reply.

    Here are pics after 2 coats of the Lexol non-darkening neatsfoot oil. I didn't get any before pics. It was very light on the raised parts before I oiled it. The oil has made it dark again and as you can see it is grayish. I intend to apply more oil,it is not quite as supple as it should be. Is there a better conditioner I should be using?

    I used a tack sponge to clean it, and a horse brush. The brush was apparently a bad idea, could see color on the sponge when I wiped it down.

    This one shows the original finish, under the skirts.

    I would be very happy if I could get the whole thing to look like the pommel still does.

    The oil is turning it darker why put more oil on it? Correct me if I am wrong but you want the dirt washed off, the oil is locking the dirt to the surface of the leather. Use saddle soap and water with a fine bristle brush (old shoe brush).

  13. Posted · Edited by busted · Report reply

    I'm looking for info on a sewing machine I have, not sure where to post so I stared here.

    Would like to know what it's it worth? any other nfo would be greatly appreciated.

    I posted a reply to this about 3 hours ago don't know where it went

    Try this link again. http://parts.singerc.../IPinstManuals/

    As for the price I would double what I paid for it. It will sew 3/4" of leather it uses a 7x3 needle it if it is like this Amish guys down the road it will sew the 415 thread. The bobbin is like 1 1/2" in diameter. An Amish guy down the road from me uses his to make and repair harness. He has an American Straight needle for making the heavy stuff.

  14. Posted · Report reply

    I'm looking for a strap cutter and a creaser...

    I have a 132 Randall Strap Cutter for sale. It has 4 1/8",4 1/4",4 1/2",6 1",6 1 1/4",6 1 1/2" spacers. There is about 14 usable knives and some that are not useable. It is very good condition. I would like 2200 for it. It needs to be picked up the thing weighs around 300 lbs. I would be interested in swapping for a sewing machine that would 3/4" sew leather. I can take some pictures and post later.

  16. Posted · Report reply

    I am new to leatherworking and looking to purchase my first sewing machine for making tack and strap goods, no saddles. I'm interested in Ferdco's Pro 440R. Has anyone used one? What do you think of them? Thanks for the input!

    I had one too. It was the biggest piece of crap I have ever had the misfortune to own. I sent it to Weavers Auction in June and sold it. It will sew canvas not leather.

  17. Posted · Report reply

    Good Morning Busted:

    Many people (read customers) want a thinner, smaller belt for OWB carry that will fit INSIDE their belt loops.

    They simply cannot use a 10 or 12 OZ 1 1/2 belt.

    One answer MIGHT BE to use a stiffener material between thinner, say 3 OZ leather.

    Many gun belt makers are currently using a stiffener layer of different sorts.

    The answers to my question point out others here are using them.

    Kevin

    I read here some one suggested that you use the horse hide. It is excellent for what you are trying to do. You want an 8 ounce belt that will almost stand by itself in the corner. Right?

    I have some 4 ounce vegetable tan material that is a very firm hand it should do what you want. You can't bend this stuff to a right angle or it will crack but for a belt liner I think it will work.

    PM me with your address I will send a sample to you.

  18. Posted · Report reply

    Hello All, thanks you for taking the time to read this, im new to the site as well as to leather working, so please forgive me if this is something simple to answer or that has already been covered. Im looking to find just a simple business/elegant style belt buckle, not sure what the actual type of buckle would be called, the ones with that are a plate with hook/ball on the back. Any of the belt buckles that I have scoured over on the net are nothing but the pewter cast ones that have some sort of logo or mascot and so on on it. I didnt think it would be this hard to find one that is comparable to the bigger named buckles on belts like CK, Hugo Boss, and Guess of all things. I dont have anything in a particular design needed, just something that is more for business without it being a roller buckle type. The pics are just some examples of what I am talking about, like I said, it doesnt have to match them in design or name, just that style of buckle. Thank you very much in advance for looking and helping me out if possible.

    You are looking for a military style belt buckle. Like the ones on this web site.

    http://www.baronbelts.com/display/buckles.html

  19. Posted · Report reply

    HELLO AMERICA!

    What are good stiffeners for belts, a secret held by those who know!??

    Some say zink..stainless steel, plastic, spring steel, Galvanized metal, copper,Egyption secret metal, even unknown elements from other planets!

    Well.. share the secret to the best stiffeners, please. My wife and children are being held hostage until the best material is divulged! ..After one week I know not what will happen?..

    .

    deadsubject.gif

    Your serious, right? I have been making belts and tack for 8 or 9 years never heard of a stiffener for belts. Maybe you should ask the Chinese.

  22. Posted · Report reply

    Hi,

    Thanks for your replies, but I have two other questions ;).

    - Where can I buy a speed reducer or a servo motor for a good price?

    - Wich other affordable (= maximum 300 EUR or 420 USD ) sewing machines with triple feed and walking foot ( preferably Adler or Pfaff ) do you recommend?

    Thanks again!

    Vincent

    First of all how are you going to get the steering wheel under the machine to sew the cover? I apologize I couldn't resist.

    You can make your own speed reducer. I used an 8 inch and a 2 1\2 inch pulley your father should be able to help with this one.

    If you use the speed reducer you will not need the servo motor.

    Sewmun and Trox are right in their suggestions of either the Adler or the Pfaff with a walking foot or the Global with a walking foot too you definitely don't want the high speed Singer or anything that zig zags.

    Leather has to be sewn slowly 800 stitches per minute or slower or the needle will heat up and burn the thread. Have fun rebuilding the VW.

  23. Posted · Report reply

    Is there a difference in the quality of 24 Line snaps? Recently, I used nickel plated snaps purchased from S-T Leather, in St. Louis. They were set using a tool also purchased from them. The following problems occurred:

    1. When setting, the tubes fractured and tore instead of rolling neatly. The metal seems to be excessively hard.
    2. After forming the holster, I noticed blue stains on the leather around the snap. Leather is Wickett & Craig. The stains were removed with Oxalic Acid. They reappeared when the holster was finished with Neatsfoot Oil.
    3. The completed snaps do not fasten as firmly and securely as I'd want.

    Any comments and/or suggestions will be greatly appreciated.

    Thanks.

    Jeff

    I hate when that happens. The solution I came upon is taking the setting tool, put in a drill press and take a file and cut the shoulder off of the setting tool. The only thing left is the rise in the

    middle of the tool that mushrooms the snap post.. I don't loose any more snaps.

  25. Posted · Report reply

    Need help with vibrating presser foot

    Hi everyone! I was hoping that someone could help me with the proper adjustment of my presser foot.

    I have a Consew 226 with reverse (I think this is called a 226 R 1 ) that I bought about 2 weeks ago and with the help of Bob at Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines LTD in Toledo, Ohio over the phone we have fixed most of the problems that the machine had. The problem now is that it is skipping stitches. I believe the timing with the hook and needle is right, but I could be wrong.

    I'm thinking that the problem is in the adjustment of the presser foot. The only thing I have to go by to try and adjust it is a users manual I downloaded from the internet and it is not very informative and the photograph are not very good ether.

    The manual says how to set the foot for the timing by loosening two screws on the back side but I can not find these screws so I'm thinking maybe my machine is an earlier are later model year.

    The manual is also confusing in that it says to ( "loosen the two screws U, fig. 6" ) and adjust the rotating position of the cam (" V, fig. 6" ) faster or slower as may be desired. And tighten " the screw". So I don't know if I'm looking for one screw or two.

    I also don't really know what they mean by "set the lift of the alternating presser feet equal"

    Any help would be very helpful to me, like I said I've had this machine for two weeks now and have not been able to use it. Sure would like to make something with it.

    Thanks in advance

    Mick

    http://consew.marginspluslive.com/images/products/PARTSBO/224-224r1-225-226r1instr.pdf. Try this and see if it any better.

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