billymac814

Friday I made a long drive to pick up an older but not really used Boss, It's the cast steel one, I got the machine, stand, edge guide, a few other accessories, thread, needles, and I also got with it a heritage foot pedal press to punch holes and drive spots,rivets, snaps etc and it cames with an auto centering thing. I really hadn't planned on getting a machine, but I've got quite a few orders and hand sewing just isn't cutting it anymore. I couldn't afford anything else at this point, and I got this whole set up for just about the cost of the accessories that came with the boss. I've wasted all day yesterday getting it set up and I got it to where it lays perfect stitches when it does, but the problem is occasionally the thread wont create the loop for the shuttle hook to pick it up, that problem is annoying, but I found a way that I hold the thread as its pulling up and it'll catch it. I'm using 277 thread and have tried several needles that are supposed to be correct for that thread. I've also tried several others that came with it. It would seem to me that either the needle thread is too tight, or the needle is to big, but I've adjusted for both. The biggest problem is sometimes it splits the thread and gets all jammed up. I don't know whats causing this, I've tried everything I could search of on here and the tippman site/videos, etc. Another thing I'm wondering is that I always waxed my thread when hand sewing, Is that necessary with this machine somehow? I could get a lube pot, but I want to know if its needed first. I ordered some newer needles- it looks like my manual recommends a different size than the site does, so I'm not sure what that means. I also ordered white thread, since it only came with black. I've made every adjustment that their site says, There is a part of the video that says if your machine is fraying thread that a small adjustment might be needed but they don't give the adjustment, they just give a phone number. I'm not sure if when it pierces the thread if that is considered fraying, but it does fray the thread. I'm going to call them tomorrow and see if they have any suggestions, I thought I'd try here first so hopefully I can get this up and running before I loose much more time. If anyone can be any help that would be great. Telling me I should have bought an electric machine for 5 times as much doesn't help though. My plans are to use this, get accustomed to how a machine works, sell it for more than I paid for it and then buy something bigger when the time comes.

Thats about the perfect response. I think I'll go that route in the future. It's not that I don't think I can do it, I know I can and make it look fine, the bottom of it though is very rough, a grinder really isn't going to save it either. I'll fix this one up and then maybe make sure I get pictures of the pan in advance before I give a price, I didn't really figure in any pan work to the price so I won't make very much on this one, but I'm more worried about it looking nice than how much I'll make.

I recieved a pan the other day that must have been made out of a shovel(i recall seeing a tutorial somewhere on how to make one out of a shovel) It is not symetrical to say the least and theres a lot of welding and mounting hardware on the bottom. I can cover it easy enough, but it's not going to be perfect, I hate to send something back thats not as nice as it can be even if it's not my fault. I'd say it's right on the border of a pan that I'd refuse to cover. I've been talking with this guy for probably 5 or 6 months too so I definatly want the job. I offered him one of my pans I use but it's not going to mount up without changing stuff on his bike and I know everything has already been powder coated. I guess I'll wait and see what he says.

I like making my own stuff, I'm making a maul right now, and I've made quite a few other tools because I can't really afford some things, however I can't imagine I can make anything better than what is available commercially as far as conditioners go. So far I've used Sno-seal, Sno-proof, and Aussie conditioner and probably something else I can't think of. Sno seal and sno proof seem to be very close, and Aussie conditioner seems to be a lighter mix if that makes sense, but the MPB seems like it would offer the most protection from the elements so far. It buffed off nicely and I don't think it's greasy, it feels and looks about the same as sno-seal and sno proof. I don't mind it being a little waxy, especially on a MC seat because I don't like them being overly slippery. Where did you get the beeswax in quantity? I've bought the small cakes but they are small and a few bucks, it wouldn't be cost effective to make anything out of them but I'm sure it can be had cheaper or probably free if you know the right person.

I received my package today with a little jug of goodness. I got the 12oz tub, it is very stiff compared to the Aussie Conditioner that I've been using, it also has more of a scent which is a nice scent, it doesn't really smell like pine to me though. I just finished up a seat the other day so I got to test it out, It went on very well, it melted very easily just by rubbing it in. I heated it up lightly with a hairdryer just to see its reaction, Aussie wax turns to liquid very easily, while this held up and did not, I don't know that that means anything but it seems like this stuff would hold up much better when it has someone sitting on it. I obviously can't say much else, but I'm going to try some on my boots as I figure they will see more abuse than just about anything else. I'll report my findings after some long term testing, but I feel pretty confident with this stuff and will be using it on all my seats.

Is there any reason you choose one over the other for a specific project or is it more of whatever you feel like using at the time? I was going to get Pecards but decided to go this route instead, I think I was sold with the idea of the pine pitch being added.

I ordered it directly from thier site, I ordered it Sunday and it shipped Monday. I don't think Springfield has it, thats where I order most of my stuff from and I've never seen it on thier site. I didn't know about the Redwing thing so I didn't check there. It would have been more convienient if Springfield has it, I could have ordered it with other things and saved shipping. I didn't verify that they don't have it though, so It could be worth a call.

I hear it's really good, I find it strange that more people don't use it if it that good. The downside is paying 10.00 for shipping for a container of it since I can't order it along with my other supplies. I got the medium size one because the shipping was about the same for the small one and it wasn't very big. If I like it and it turns out to be what I use I'll order the BIG bucket of it and not have to worry about shipping for a long time. I'll report my findings.

I just ordered some Montana pitch blend to try out on my seats, I know Christian at Xian leather seems to love it, but I don't hear many people talking about it here. Anyone ever try it or have opinions on it? It seems like there isn't anything else like it at least in regards to the pine pitch being added. I suppose I'll find out soon enough for myself, it wasn't exactly cheap(at least once shipping was added) but for good protection it seems reasonable.

I just opened an account with them, I filled out the online app on a saturday or sunday and had my customer number and password on Monday morning(this was a few weeks ago) I haven't ordered anything from them yet because it does seem very difficult just to even look for stuff. I also almost feel bad ordering just one or two things, but I did explain in the application that I make custom items one at a time and don't have any type of "stock" items at this point so they should know I wouldn't order a lot at once. The application was very simple and I didn't need to send anything over to them in the way of tax forms or anything like that. Another thing for those who don't have an account or don't want to get one is Springfield Leather sells thier stuff as well, unfortunatley it isn't any easier, you still have to look at the item in the OTB catalog and then call them for a price then call Springfield with what you want. I would imagine thats more difficult yet and probably take longer as well. But it is an option for the person that just needs the occasional thing.

I'm sure it'll be a fair price no matter what. I still think it's a pretty good deal for what you get and there's no middle man to deal with. I always got their #1 grade but the last time I ordered I got one side of #1 and one side of the #3 (special) grade to compare the two. I really can't tell much of a difference, there was a mark on the #3 but just at the very top and not an issue at all. The #3 was on special and it was 95.00 compared to the 185.00 for the number 1. I'll have a very hard time ordering #1 again as I don't think it will affect my final product unless it is not on sale then I'll just spend the few extra bucks, but for 95.00 it is hard to beat for a nice side. This may have been a fluke and I just got a really nice one but I'll try again. They are very close to me as well which is why I chose them(45 min) However I still have them ship it as they have to run it through the splitter, it takes usually a week to get.

Looks great, I'm just finishing a seat that is a bit smaller than that and it was quite a long project, I can imagine that one took quite a while.

Very nice, The black matches the seat perfectly as well, it's the same shade and looks like it has the same sheen (if that makes sense).

Thanks, that was exactly what I was looking for.

I'm making probably 2 different mauls and a mallet for myself, I really want to make the leather handle like some knives have where it's just stacked washers. The handles will be round not oval like a knife handle but it will have to have a few tapers in it like a maul handle would have. Should I stamp all the washers the same size and then turn it on a lathe, or would I be better stamping a few sizes and stacking them close to the shape I want and sanding the rest down? The easiest way would be all one size if thats possible so I don't have to make as many punches but I'm not sure how well leather turns down on a lathe. Also, I'm planning on glueing the washers together, is that correct?

I actually didn't care much for the face, I didn't think it was looking right but it was his design he came up with and I used it. I did learn a lesson on this one though. He gave me his pan and I made the patterns and provided him with a piece of tracing paper with the exact size of where the tooling will go and he drew it up, I then traced it directly into the leather. From now on I'll retrace it just to learn the lines before it goes on leather. Some of them I would have changed to work into the leather better. Oh well, live and learn, that stuff doesn't usually happen that way anyway.

I doubt the 5.00 would even cover shipping anymore. How old is it? Maybe that makes a difference in the prices on ebay. If it's really old I would think it would be hard to compare the price of a new one, I would guess the old one would be worth more if it's unused.

I too tried it and didn't like it. I felt like my knife slipped more but not consistently, like it slipped and stopped suddenly. I now use the water/lexol/baby shampoo mixure and like it.

100 dollars for a side doesn't seem all that expensive to me really. I'm assuming that is not #1 grade? I get all my leather from Wickett& Craig, they have thier special sides which is the #3 and it's very nice, it's usually 90 and they'll split it to any thickness. I've not had a reason to try anything else yet and they are not only in the USA but local to me and there's no minimum other than a side. If your just practicing though a rem pack would be fine, but you won't really make much more than fancy scraps. I'd go right for the side beyond that, just get #3 grade. I bought my first piece at Tandy and it wasn't that big or nice and it was 70 bucks, I couldve had a whole side for 20 bucks more and it would have been American. I always got #1 from W&C, my last order I got one#3 and one #1 and was very suprised at how very little difference there was except a huge difference in price.

I'd estimate the value to be approximately 5.00. I'll buy it off you, do you take paypal? Actually I have no idea, good find though I'm sure. I say that only because ruby sounds expensive not because I have any knowledge of them.

He does, there's more of a curve in it than it looks in the pics but it's not near as much as the ones I normally use. I warned him about it when I got the pan. He said it felt fine. As long as it's mounted level it should be about as good as the curved ones are when people mount them at extreme angles. But no matter what it's not my problem, he made the pan.

Here is a seat I just finished up for a local guy. He made the pan and provided the artwork. He wanted it all dark at first and I talked him into the way it is now. There's not much curve to the pan but it's going to be mounted level on a drop seat frame, so he thinks it will be fine.

Thats crazy that SPS makes nearly as much as you do for a seat that you have a weeks worth of work into. I guess that goes with the territorry though and as long as your getting a fair price it doesn't really affect you any. As far as the welts go, I would think if your stitching it together instead of lacing and it was a larger type seat maybe they could be used. I seen on in the Stohlman sewing book that used one on a boat seat so I would assume it could be used for a bike seat as well, I don't think it would add anything except extra work though, Maybe it would strengthen the seam?

Looks good, Is seabass the stuff Springfield sells pretty cheap?

Thanks, it was airbrushed with Fiebings spirit dyes, except the black, I used a brush.