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Thanks, I found the cover plate for $55 new from Pfaff. I think a variation of this machine is still made today perhaps with some using same parts. I am hoping that it is a good machine and worth fixing up. Was is a good machine in its day? What is a "binding foot set" Should I get a standard set for general leather work (wallets, portfolios, chaps) lighter stuff mostly. Still hoping to find an owners/operators manual? Threading, maintenance, needle replacement, lube, adjustments.etc

Does anyone have one? I just bought one (head only) and trying to set it up. It looks like it may be missing a horizontal bar across the top... not quite sure if mine is a different version. Nonetheless, it would be great to have a manual that showed me some basics, threading, bobbin set up etc. I found a parts manual online but that's all I could find.

Yes, cut out, skive the edges, glue then stitch. On the ostrich, since is is considerably thinner, I took the cut out skived the edges and glued it back in its original place so the ostrich would "dome" then stitch. I also use #69 thread on the inlay I felt like the inlay should be thinner than the #277 I use on the rest of the holster. (opinion only, both obviously work) Thanks, Rob

I thought I would share my first few tries at inlay overlay. I was fortunate to get some tips from the famed "Randy and Claudia" who live nearby. They are true inlay artists! This is a simple star pattern but I may elaborate later with more details and pieces if I think they would ever sell. They are a fun change of pace and indeed unique. First is black shark with brown shark inlay. Second is black elephant with brandy ostrich inlay. Feel free to leave a comment good bad or indifferent. Also share an inlay on a holster you have made so I can get more ideas to try! Happy new year! Rob

Thanks Wiz, I always appreciate your expertise here. I have the cobra class 4. Sewing with #25 on 277 top, 207 bobbin. I do know that it does have at least one top spring pressure knob...not sure if it has two??? As mentioned by many, the operators manual on these machines are quite lacking. Leather Machine Co should do several Youtube vids addressing many of these common adjustments, timing etc I am sure it would helps Steve's phone from ringing off the hook. Tippman actually has one of the best user manuals IMHO. Will try your suggestions immediately. Wiz, when do you know to replace needles? Could a dulling needle also be a tell tale culprit? Best, Rob

I am having the same problem with mine. I never adjusted anything and it just started doing that. So frustrating when sewing a belt then having to back. I notice that it misses the stitch when it lifts the leather. I am sewing two 8oz veg tanned. I need to call Steve unless he chimes in here.

Indeed Bruce I have just learned that they are very expensive. I had hoped to save shop space by doing so. I imagine you are referring to an arbor press like those at harbor freight?? Basically a bottle jack pressing two steel plates together? A poor mans clicker! )

Figure I'd ask here if anyone has ever tried using a vintage book press as a die cutter. Not sure you could get the torque but figure perhaps someone has tried and give me a go/no go answer. Best, Rob

Trent, Not looking to resell at all. I am a hobby holster and belt maker right here in Middle TN. Www.BiancheriUSA.com. I also coach a boys JV highschool hockey team. I am continually making equipment repairs. I am hoping to find the kind that has the boot horn on it. This way I can use it to rivet belt loops and skates, and a myriad of other projects. Feel free to email direct at rob@cobalttn.com and I'll give you my number. Best, Rob

Sometimes with elephant, if it is an especially spongy piece, you should liberally coat the elephant with your bonding cement and let it soak in and dry. As it is getting tacky pressing or rolling it down in to the fleshy nap. You will then have a good base to re coat and cement to your veg tanned base.

I put my mark on the back of every holster. However, if asked, I would certainly omit it. They know who made it! The customer gets what the customer wants and pays for. In fact, I would not hesitate to put a third party mark on my work if a large company would commission multiple pieces. This is common business practice and widely used branding technique. It's a leather holster, more than likely concealed anyway. If you think people will get close enough to be able to read or recognize the mark... well, don't kid yourself. Keep the pride in your work and not in the mark. The recognition will always follow the maker not the mark. The best advertising, under promise, over deliver....#1: customer gets exactly what they asked for.

I love the two tone holsters. Nice job! You will quickly learn that symmetrical stitching lines really makes a marked difference. You will get better with some practice. Get yourself a drafting compass and mark your stitching lines next time. They jump out at you when you double stitch.

I have a Randall creaser that creases double lines and domed. It creases from 1.5- 3/8 of an inch. It is in beautiful condition. All steel rollers. $975 PM if you want pics.

Before I would scrap the project since the hard work is already done, I would try to salvage the piece by dying it black with pro oil dye. Black hides a lot of deficiencies in leather. Then seal, then wax and polish. See how it looks then. It may not be perfect but for a first one it is really nice! Also, this is the way we learn...I know it is frustrating but your next one will be even nicer, I promise!

I have never tried grips. How much are they? Although I have often thought about it, I am afraid I would enjoy it too much. I fear what my wife would say if I embarked on another hobby! I have some hippo on it's way. Rob

Thought I would pass on a very unique hide. It is Giraffe imported from South Africa. I have never seen one in this tanned pattern. Pretty cool and quite different IMHO.

The one pictured is clearly a new one. I saw an old similar cast iron one awhile back and hoped I could find one like it. I really want the shoe "horn" version of this type of machine. (That curved hook) They were typically found in old shoe shops. Dust off that old bench top riveter and sell it to me!

So nice! Do you sew a small piece of leather inside the holsters to "catch" the front site post to help keep the pistol from bouncing out? Are both holsters cut at the same cross draw angle? I am getting ready to make my first set...any tips or advice?

You guys are simply amazing... I must try an inlay. This is what I have been doing but this technique looks so cool!

Wow such nice detail work. Did you dye after all the stitching was complete and holster completely assembled? If so, did you just mask and airbrush or paint it on?

I would like to purchase a rivet press that will install rivets and uninstall them on ice skate holders. Older ones were made for boot rivets. Some of you cobblers may have one sitting around a shoe shop not being used. Have cash!

That is simply awesome! I am intrigued by the inlay/overlay art. What size needle and thread do you use? I think I'd need a magnifying glass to stitch like that. WOW!

Not sure what you mean by a plastic sleeve. Do you have a Pic? Thanks!

Thanks! Maybe someday you can post a small tutorial or even better video. I love watching stuff like that.