Jump to content

Toddo

Members
  • Content Count

    97
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Toddo

  • Rank
    Member
  • Birthday 09/14/1963

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Richmond, VA

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
    Beginner
  • How did you find leatherworker.net?
    Google

Recent Profile Visitors

4,464 profile views
  1. This is pretty cool. It looks super thin and pretty cheap too. If I was making a bunch of wallets to sell I put this in every one of them as an additional selling point. It's so cheap you wouldn't have to pass much of an additional cost on to your customers. If I make another wallet for myself or a family member I plan on putting this in it. Like why not. I don't know how this has been out but it's the first time I've seen it. RMLS - 0.1mm RFID Blocking Fabric Mesh
  2. I can't understand how any dye could make leather white unless it's some kind of bleach. Reading this article, It says that dye can only darken leather, not lighten it. https://leatherninja.com/leather-dye-vs-leather-paint/ Quick Main Key Points: Leather Dye Penetration: Dye penetrates the leather, forming a chemical bond and preserving its natural characteristics. It is permanent and can darken but not lighten the leather. Leather Paint Characteristics: Paint sits on the surface of the leather, offering a wide range of colors and finishes. It is more versatile than dye but requires multiple thin coats for durability. IDk. I guess I'm thinking about it wrong. I'll have to experiment with it. I was going to do a flag on leather and I wanted to do the colors in dye for a more natural look. I'm going for a dyed look instead of that bright painted look. I'm guessing this stuff is thinly formulated acrylic paint that soaks into the pores like dye. Then is regular "non-acrylic" dye just thinly formulated paint pigment with an alcohol or oil carrier? I can make regular acrylic paint soak into the leather pores quite a bit by just soaking the leather first with water and then watering down the paint. Seems like it's some kind of word game really.
  3. Anyone got any idea why they call this dye instead of paint? How is this different from regular acrylic paint?
  4. I think if the sheath was perfectly straight the lines would look just about perfect on my second stitching run with the second color. The sheath is junk. If you look around the edge of the sheath you can see that the cut lines are off especially on the left side.
  5. I re-stitched the sheath and got a way better result by only cinching up the thread with moderate tension. Pulling it to tight throws off the thickness symmetry. Index finger and thumb pressure only. I also refrained from cinching it up tight to the leather no matter how bad it was twisted coming up to the leather. Before I was pulling it up tight no matter how bad it was twisted without any regard (like you do with twisted poly). If it's twisted when getting close to the leather I roll it around until it's straighter while I pull it up to the leather. I needed to do that on most stiches but it doesn't really take to much more time and it's not much of a hassle to speak of. The sides and punch holes on this sheath are not exactly perfect and that accounts for most of the unaligned looking stiches. All in all I think I can get the consistency and symmetry that I like to have with this thread now. This color thread is Havana Cigar. The color the first pic was Chestnut. I have read comments that Tiger thread is stronger than twisted poly. I guess that depends on what size of either thread you're using. I first had this sheath stitched up with the waxed black twisted poly that I got from Tandy on the left. I'm not sure of the exact size but it's pretty thick. I think it's 1mm. The Tiger thread on the right is "size # 1". So I think it's the equivalent of .9mm or 1mm. The Tiger thread might have a width of 1mm, but it's not 1mm all the way around because it's flat. It's only the flat side width that is 1mm. The twisted poly is 1mm all the way around which makes it thicker.. and stronger. When I cut the black Tandy poly thread using that red handled tool it took way more pressure to cut it. Way more. It was hard to cut. When I cut the Tiger thread with the same tool it pretty much cut like butter. The 1mm twisted poly is much stronger I'm afraid. And that's something to consider when choosing. The Tiger thread has great looks going for it because of the braided look. The twisted poly has strength going for it and you don't have to worry about it twisting because it's round so it looks symmetrical no matter what. This stuff just looks awesome. The color on the left is Chestnut and on the right is Havana Cigar. Yeah no problem Ok will do
  6. Try Rocky Mountain Leather supply. You can get 80 feet "mini spools" for like only $5 and change. Free shipping to if I remember correctly. They also have a Ritza Tiger Thread sample card that has all the colors and thread sizes which I ordered also. One thing I didn't mention in my op is that I believe I was actually a little inconsistent with how tightly I pulled the thread, which will make it look a bit skinnier or fatter. Towards the end of the run I think I started pulling it quite a bit tighter trying to compensate for the twist and "pull out" the twisted look. I think this thread requires that you remain very consistent on how tightly you pull the thread on each and every stitch, which you don't have to worry about with twisted poly.
  7. I just did my first experiment with Tiger thread. I knew it was going to be a little bit of an issue with the flatness of the thread and getting a consistent run because of the twisting before I even tested it out. I really want to use this stuff because of the looks of the thread and the colors. This is an old wet molded knife sheath that I had discarded and used for the test run. The front of the sheath got severely dried out and shrunk up a bit and that might be part of the problem with the consistency because of the punch holes maybe being a little out of line here and there. I don't think that's the entire problem though. It's got something to do with how twisted the thread gets into the length of the run also. I tried to be as consistent as I could be on the whole run as far as my technique goes but disregarded any attempt at trying to keep the thread flat and untwisted for the test because that's how I run twisted poly thread, without regard to twisting: Backside looks acceptable:
  8. Toddo

    The millennium bag

    I really appreciate all the great compliments on the bag yall. Thanks! I name the bird on the front of the bag the millennium falcon ((any star wars fans out there.... ))
  9. Toddo

    The millennium bag

    Thanks man I appreciate it!
  10. Toddo

    The millennium bag

    You're welcome. That's what this forum is all about.
  11. Toddo

    The millennium bag

    yeah haha. And you're right, it's more of a "mantle hanger" presentation piece. If I make another one I'm gonna try to make it it little more practical size wise. I was loosely basing the whole thing on an American Civil War troop kit
  12. Toddo

    The millennium bag

    Thanks. The side panels are, a) back piece, b) 1/16" acrylic board, c) front piece. I wet formed the back piece that has the gusset part.
  13. Toddo

    The millennium bag

    thanks! Yeah you could call it a black powder possibles bag. Props to Treasure Cast for the closure pin and arrowhead
×
×
  • Create New...