ShortBBL

Like the title says... what is YOUR favorite leather for holster making? What size/weight do you use and where do you like to buy from? I've used W&C Pre-Dyed leathes, skirting mostly with a little English Bridle tossed in for good measure. I am thinking of going with undyed leather, skirting I think, and probably Shoulders, as that sounds like the firmest. So what do you prefer to use?

Thanks!! I might give one a try!

Thanks again guys! Maybe I am rushing it a bit. I may also have to think about getting an airbrush setup, although I haven't a clue on what/where to get it. Does anyone here dip-oil there stuff? In the Bianchi DVD's, that how he does it. He uses undyed leather and dips them in neatsfoot oil for a short time... they end up with a pretty nice honey or saddle tan finish. It sounds like he has an expensive drying setup, but he didn't show that part. Laying it out to dry for 24-48 hours might be the ticket if one has no drying system. With NeatLac in the spray cans, my finishes turn out fine (as long as I do it in two or three light passes) so maybe using the daubers, wool scrapes etc, is putting too much on at a time. I really need to get this worked out. My leather work is getting to the point where I am happy with it, except for the finish. Thanks for all the ideas!

Thanks guys for the comments. TwinOaks: I have tried spraying it on and not rubbing at all, just letting it dry. That method actually works pretty good BUT..... once I am out of the stuff... I'm out and there is no more, UNLESS I can maybe try airbrushing WYOSHEEN? WYO is laquer based I think.... but maybe I'm wrong and it's water based. I need to find that out! When I try to apply it with wool or wool daubers or foam pad.... I get the applicator wet with the stuff and rub it on the leather.... it looks ok when real wet, but once dry it has streaks. Getting a real good finish is the hardest step for me so far! I really like to dip my project in neatsfoot oil and let it drip dry and once dry, then try the wyo.... it's the way Bianchi shows in his DVD's... and it looks great for him! I also tried putting leather balm with atom wax on the dried oiled leather but that didn't go too well either.

I think I will probably make belts with a curve, but only on heavy gun belts with bullet loops and in the 2.5 - 3" sizes. Smaller belts seem to shape themselves in a short bit of time and the big gun belts are worn a little lower (below the main belt) more on the hips where a little curve will make the belt fit right, right now.

I like the design mods I did on this one vs the last one. I am still going to make some changes. Before too long, I hope you'll see a BIG change! My edges are coming along nicely... now after a few more pattern changes, I REALLY need to get some help on my finishes. I have tried neatsfoot oil and then WYOSHEEN but I am having a heck of a time getting a smooth, streak free finish! Tried wool, tried wool with a GI haircut, tried wool daubers..... ugh.... applying this WYOSHEEN is just a PITA! What do you guys use to get a nice finish?

I agree with the others. Very nice!

Yes for sure! This forum and all the great members here are really helpful and generous with sharing their knowledge. Can't find a better forum IMHO! Thanks everyone!

Ahhhh. I didn't realize that I could stop the dang machine a stitch early and move to the exact spot I needed the last hole to be! Thanks a lot guys. This will help me in several areas!!

I just watched the Bianchi DVD which was real helpful. I have a question or two though, for those of you who machine stitch like he does. Look at my pictures below. Remember, this was only a real fast test to see how it would go.... don't laugh at the hideous results. Ok, maybe laugh a little. Anyway... in the first picture, do these loops look too long? Should more brass be visable or is this about right? I used a 1" strip for the loops. These are 44 Special Cartridges. If it had been 44 Mags, of course more brass would have shown. So how wide of a strip do you use for 44's and 45's? In the second picture, notice how some of the stitches are either too high or too low, I just can't get it perfect. When I try and do the angle up to the next loop, it is really hard to get the needle to end in the place that would look perfect. How do you do that little manuver? I am happy at the way the measurements came out nice and snug and how it will look on a real project... I just want to get those dang stitches to end correctly every time! Ugh..... Help! P.S. Do you guys use natural color thread or white like my thread? It sure looks bright!

Yes they started making these last year. It's maybe my best shooting handgun! One other nice thing, these are FLATTOPS, like their originals and the cylinder even indexes correctly for loading/unloading! Very nice gun.

Thanks!! I'll order a set right away!

WOW! I guess STITCHING is the way to go then! I hope (think) he will teach how to do it with a machine, as hand stitching would take forever. I gave it a try but it was not pretty! Hopefully his DVD's will help me get that part working! Did he just make the one set of DVD's or are there differant versions out there? Thanks guys!

I'd love to learn how to make top quality gunbelts... Wester Style with nice loops. I am pretty sure I'd want to make them with the Punch a slot-then pull thru method. I'd then line the belt so the loops did not show up on the back side of the belt. Anyway..... is there a good holster/gunbelt making DVD that really teaches this in detail? How about one of the Bianchi ones? Are they any good? I've thought about taking Bianchi's 2 day (or whatever it is) class at a leather show, but I am not sure I can get to one where he does the classes...... Also I'm not sure he teaches gunbelts there.. maybe its just how to make a holster. So... any good ideas would be very much appreciated! Thanks! Jon

Here is a RH holster I make for the Ruger LCP. This pocket holster looks like a wallet in your front pocket... if its seen at all. I dont wear pants so tight that it would even print though.

Thanks Mike! I've already changed the pattern to one with integral belt loop, just like Bianchi's #1 has and it is much nicer. I agree that the 44 Special is a great cartridge. I handload and the thing just shoots great! My brother also had a Bulldog 44 and that was a good little shooter too! Thanks everyone for the comments!

As if I needed another "thing" to keep me overly busy! Oh man! Thanks everyone..... here we go!!

I'd like to learn to do some braiding and want to know the best learning tools. Is there a book or two that you think is best? Maybe a DVD or YouTube or something? I want to braid small thin Roo lace to use for Holster Hammer Thongs. I'd also like to make a necklace and bracelt for my wife sometime. I dont have a ton of time to spend braiding, my first thing is holster/sheath making, but I need to dress them up to stand out from the crowd! Thanks for ideas! Jon

It didn't get that hard. I thought it was just not dry..... alas..... it was marked for life. Yes, Black dye is ones best friend in times like these!

I have a couple questions for those who have done similar holsters as shown below. What kind of lace (and size) would you use for this? What tools are needed? I heard kangaroo is the best and Tandy has a 25 yrd spool on sale now for WAY low..... like $25 for businesses. Theirs is 1/8". Is this what I want for this kind of work or do I need something else? Also.... do you just use the lacing after glueing or would this also get stitched and lace over that? Thanks guys/gals!

Here is how it all turned out......

Yeah, they are sweet!! I plan to use mine for deer next year! Need to make a nice shoulder rig!

Here is one I finished for a Ruger 44 Special I have. It's a 4 5/8" BBL gun. I based it on the Bianchi #1, but with a thong (not THAT kind!) instead of snap. How would one use a snap without having it scratch their gun? I've made some changes to the pattern now... I curved it down a bit near the sight and shortened it a touch (this one is about 1/4" long for my liking as well as making the loop a part of the one piece pattern, instead of adding it seperate. For those who have made an Elmer Keith No. 5 style holster.... how much leather needs to be long (past the end of the bbl) to sew that shut? Thanks for looking!

That's what's stranger here! The leather didn't feel hot at all! The first 10-15 minutes, the reinforcing piece was dry.. the rest was still very wet looking. I left it go for another 20 at least. Maybe I should have taken it out and just let the air finished it. I was hoping it would be 90% dry so it would be super dry by morning. Maybe I am just pushing it too fast. How long do you guys soak the leather? I have been dunking it for 10 seconds or so.. maybe I am soaking it way too long too?

I have a new convection oven, bought just for holster/sheath making. I use the grates to set the work on, maybe I should use the pan instead? Also, now that I think about it a little.... the end that is cooked may have been positioned closer to the lower element. In any case, I will turn it way down and try cooking off another one!