TomG

Your stem is too long. It needs to end about 1/16" above the uncompressed leather. There are a number of ways to trim them. Files a score line around them and try to snap the tip off is one way, but I found it to be awkward at beast. I use a pair of flush cutting nippers to cut the tip above the leather. I then use the nippers to reshape it to some semblance of a round shaft again. Never had a problem with them holding or he caps being lined up.

As cheap as commercially made glue is, I'm not sure why you'd want to make your own, buy you might do an Internet search on a book called Dr Chase's Recipies. It's a free book if memory serves me.

I stamp a good bit of 3/4. And your thoughts on putting a heavier piece of scrap under it is a good one. It will make a world of difference. Try some different firmnesses of leather to get the impression you want. I haven't used my arbor press is a while so I really don't remember if I used a piece under those jobs or not.

Magnets and any card with a stripe are an invitation to having the card erased or scrambled. I'd keep them well apart.

Check this thread http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=52488&hl=

I have a rotary New Hermes Engravograph for plastics that I have experimented with. Does a pretty good job as long as I adjust the cutter to the proper depth, but it's a fixed depth of cut. Places like Disney, Six Flags, etc that sell the engraved, pre-made bracelets and engrave your name on while you wait, use a digital rotary engrave like the M20. With its computer interface, I can cut a wide variety of designs. But again... it's pretty much a fixed cutting depth. I would think a CNC milling machine and a small cutting bit would let you cut almost an design into the leather. Post some pic of your tests!

Thanks. I'll have to try that for my edger...

Cool Tool. I use a big plastic paperclip with a piece of felt to apply edge dressing. Same idea, but yours is slicker!!! What did you use? a dowel rod The smell was not vinegar. it was a rusty - musty -- weird smell. Can't remember it exactly no. Been a few since used it. But your description my be similar.

Hey Todd, I am NOT a Vingaroon pro by any means, but I have used it. I stopped because I could never get the smell out. But... My Roon was never coal black. My 1st batch was a rusty color and my second batch was rusty as well, but not as dark. Both dyed well. I always used Resolene diluted 50/50 with water for my finish coat. But I actually used the Roon for dying the whole piece... not as an edge dye. Once think I would be careful of is the wicking effect of the leather. I'd experiment with it fist to make sure it's not going to oak in further than the edges.

RE the Skiver - Tandy has the same thing for $8. It uses a old-style single edge razor blade to do the cutting. I've used the Tandy one but not the Osborne. I assume from the picture the Osborne looks to use the same.

Ditto on what Aaron and Dwight said. Especially the one about smaller projects. Make a single coaster. A key fob. Something you can do in an hour or so. It will give you the sense of accomplishment and ease the frustration

For those of you who use an airbrush, what do you use to put your piece on to spray? I need to redo the way I've done it in the past. One guy I met a few years ago, built a square box about 3 feet long and 2 feet high, put a piece of wire mesh on the front with hooks to hold the piece vertical. He had a fan and filter in the back to exhaust the overspray. Nice if you have the room, which a lot of us don't have. Pictures? Thanks

Thanks to all. Looks like my method was OK, just not a steady enough hand. I finally got a good one. Actually, I have an airbrush, but apparently I didn't clean I well enough last time I used it and it's all gunked up and I think my needle might be damaged Plus, right now, I don't have a place to spray without triggering divorce proceedings. That brings up another subject, but I think I'll start a new thread for it. Later

As the title says, what is the best way to achieve a fade on a 1-1/2" wide strap without an airbrush? I need to go from saddle tan in the middle to almost black on the outer edges. I've done it a long time ago, but can't remember exactly what I used. I've got pictures of some pretty smooth fades. I'm thinking sponges with several shades of brown, but it's not working this time around. It's choppy and streaky at the edges. Any tips or help? Thanks

Here's a couple of different shots of a bracelet I'm making for someone. This was resisted with full strength Resolene, dried overnight, dyed with Fiebings oil dye cut about 50% with denatured alcohol. Then Leather Balm with Atom wax applied, dried and buffed. Then a heavy coat of black antiquing gel rubbed in and then wiped off immediately. Like I said before... Only one way of many.

What is Linwax?

That stuff is actually a water-based stain. Like Cyber said.. NOT a dye.. Looking at Tandy's video on using resist, George only applies 1 coat and says to let it dry overnight. But again, Cyber is right. If you put a very heavy coat on, 30 minutes is not enough time to set. If you look through these forums, you are going to find dozens of different techniques, tricks, tips and suggestions. You will find that most, it seems, do not like Super Sheen (or Satin Sheen) and prefer Resolene diluted 50/50 with water. A less expensive equivalent is Mop N Glow floor wax cut 50/50 as well. Lots of folks swear by it for a resist as well as a top coat. But your coasters don't look bad- especially for a first attempt

Has anyone ever laid down a coat of contact cement to fill the leather. I thought I had seen somewhere that if the leather was very rough and porous, to lay down a coat, let it dry, then lay down a second coat, allow to tack up as normal and slap together. Not sure how that would work.

Tandy's Library has downloadable patterns. Here's a link. I've made a couple of these and they are pretty straightforward. https://www.leathercraftlibrary.com/p-1225-2697-disco-bag-pattern-pak.aspx?

I haven't used Clear Lac, but I have used Saddle Lac. The only issue I've had so far is that it seems hard to spray on a very light coat. And too thick of a coat will make it actually flake off. In your experience, what is the difference and why do you not like the SL?

Tandy has a few different contact type cements. The new low VOC has had universally poor performance reports. The original works well. They also carry Barge cement with folks here swear by. Other pros on the board here swear by Weldwood contact cement from the hardware store. I've use both Weldwood and Tandy's original and not seen a whole lot of difference. I took the new low VOC stuff back.

Get a shallow plastic tray and use it under your bottles when working with the dyes. Fold a sheet or 2 of newspaper to put in the bottom of the tray to absorb spills. I also use the syringes to transfer dyes for dilution. Go to your local pharmacy and look for 60ML ones. They are big and hold lots of dye. You will need one for each color you will work with. Some 18 gauge needles would be useful as well. After use, store them in individual ziplock bags for next time. As for the tongue slot, you are looking for an Oblong punch, also called a Bag punch. You can get them from most leather tool suppliers... Tandy, SLC, etc. There was also a thread just posted about tools, jigs and so on that had a user show his homemade punches. He used conduit and from the pictures, they looked better than some of the commercially made ones.

That was it. Thanks for finding it.

Some time back, this centering discussion came up and someone posted a photo of a simple jig that was self-centering on a strap. I just spent and hour or so looking for the thread and looking for the JPG on my PC, but can't find it on either. It was basically a square of thick Plexi, a line drawn down the center with a hole drilled in the middle to allow the punch to fit in, and 2 pins along that line on either side. You put I over the strap and rotate it so the pins touch the leather on either side and that centers the punch hole. If someone else remembers it, maybe they can post the link or picture.

OK. So spill the beans.... Did they have any idea of the thread size?