TomG

1) Make sure your leather is cased properly. There is a good thread on it here and I think it is pinned. 2) Make sure your leather is cased properly 3) Make sure your leather is cased properly. 4) Use a mallet/maul of the proper weight for the stamp size. A seeder takes let impact then a 3D stamp. 5) Stamp a piece of scrap (same leather, cased the same way) and get a feel for how hard to hit. 6) Practice 7) Practice 8) Practice Found the link http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=19121

What Curley said.... And to make the stamp stand out, use Resolene or NeatLac to block it before dying Tom

Looks like maybe Gum Trag.

Depending on the design and the leather, I often use a modeling spoon for beveling.

Well, Dwight.. I must be one of the ham handed ones. I bought the one from Hobby Lobby and it bent after the 2nd or 3rd use. Exchanged it and same thing. Got one from West Marine and it had the same issue. The West Marine sales guy (who has been there for years), said they have made them with lighter metal now. He gets lots of returns. I had an older plier-type double-cap rivet setter and it is made from metal 50% thicker than the new ones. Like a lot of things, manufacturers have cheapened up their product to save money. Tandy stamps are another example. Now, in all fairness, I WAS putting the snaps into thinner leather (about 7 oz) when they bent. So, maybe that had something to do with it. But the West Marine model is primarily used for canvas and vinyl on boats, so go figure. Tom

A single bend is one side squared off to remove the shoulders, belly and neck. A side has a back, neck, shoulder and belly. A Hide is 2 sides (the whole cow). I usually buy a side, as I sometimes need the longer lengths you get with it for belts. But I have also bought single and double bends if they look nice. It does cut down on waste a little, but I DO try to use it all. Even if for making test patterns. Tandy has a nice page that outlines it all. Pre-dyed will save you some time, for sure but someone else will have to guide you as to the pros and cons of it. I've only used the brown, but was satisfied with it for my needs. BTW, I sent you a PM about the suspenders. Thanks http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/en-usd/home/infoandservices/leatherguide/leatherguide.aspx

You can also go to a real hardware store and look in their specialty bins for door and window hardware. You'll often find small plastic pulleys that will work on some curves

These are a couple of tools designed to gouge a groove to make box corners. Kind of expensive for one or 2 uses though.

You mentioned "bathing"... Dog shampoo's can dry out the leather. Also, wet leather stretches.... some more than others, but most veg-tan does, from my experience. And that one collar looks like it has had some serious abuse... If it's undyed, why does it look like dye ran out of it? You can not be responsible for what a customer does once they receive a collar. But like shtoink said, you may have used some crappy leather (Tandy does fall short on the leather quality these days), and offering to remake it might be good for PR. On my collars, I resist letters, if needed, dye (leather does get stiff), Leather Balm with Atom Wax which softens it), apply antiques for highlighting and wipe off, seal with Saddle Lac or resolene. Finally, I apply a light coat of mink oil paste to the back, which make it pretty limber. Might not be the perfect method, but it's worked for me for a long time...

I know nothing about it, but here's a link to a spec sheet. http://www.industrialsewmachine.com/webdoc1/used/used-brochures/168g.htm

I found that the loose, porous kitchen sponges I've gotten lately, harden when the dye get on them. I now use the large yellow close-cell sponges from Home Depot. They have them in the paint section and the tile flooring section. Cut to the size needed. Tom

Hmm.. I think I noticed that at one time. I now have my servo motor turned down so far, it's almost doing a single stitch mode.

Always punch from the front. Get a beeswax block and stab your punch tip lightly into every time the punch sticks and you shouldn't get stuck - unless it's a super thick piece and/or your punch is one of the very heavy barreled ones.

StudioN - What does it do to the edges? Have you seen or heard anything about those $750 Chinese lasers?

then try Chicago screws with a dab of Loctite or superglue on the threads.. Or copper rivets...Doubt if he'll bust either of those.... I'm jealous of your Tippman <g>... I have an old Singer 111W155 that works well, within it's limits, but I seldom use it cause I haven't had a lot of time to learn to sew straight <G>. I need a "real" guide for it instead of the little "T" shaped thing. But so far the only one I've found comes from Korea, I think, and from what I understand requires drilling and tapping holes to mount it. Haven't wanted to expend the effort right now <g>...

I met a guy today at a Pep Boys and he wants someone to recover his Harley seat and incorporate some Ostrich into it. I don't do seats but figured one of you may want the job. Shoot me a PM and I'll forward the email address to contact him

I'm not 100% sure it is bad for them.. Just recall hearing out digestion issue??? What are you making your collars out of that can't withstand him???

Thanks... We have owned a total of 6 Aussies over the past 13 years. Lost a couple early. These guys range from 4 to 13. My wife does agility with them.. well, only the youngest now. I like your Corgi... I assume you make your own collars? Also, I thought veg tan was bad for dogs... I know they love rawhide... A could be wrong about the VT though.. wouldn't be the first time <g>

Yeah.. After I posted, I wondered if she had a tail. Berners and Aussies do look alike.. Especially when the Berner is a puppy. These guys were my inspiration for doing dog collars <g>.....

It sure will stink!!! Make sure it's vented to outside..... Personally, I've not heard of anyone using lasers commercially to cut. There may be many reasons for this. I'd think the first issue would be the burned edges. I do know the lasers that are in the 40W range are used to cut acrylics and burn wood. Been thinking of buying a cheap Chinese model just to play with, but need to research it first.

But Dad.. She's an Aussie.... It's her job!!!

The edges look airbrushed. The text looks like Antiquing stain

Thanks.. I advised her that with the different leathers, style and finishes possible, that it may not be possible to do. But she insists, so I got a no-harm--no-foul statement from her in writing. I'm going to see how it takes water front and back and do a test under the buckle, so the tongue can hide it if it does not take. I'll probably use my arbor press for this one..

The new Professional Dyes are supposed to have a finish in them. I've tested the Tan and the Bordeaux and I like the Bordeaux. The tan is a little dark for my tastes in Tan... But it may just be me.

I have a customer who wants me to stamp some 3D images into her Carhartt belt. Does anyone know what kind of leather they use? I’ve looked at a few at the local Northern Tool and saw several models. Some are lined and say Italian Leather. Some look like the flesh side is either glued smooth or burnished smooth and saw Genuine Leather. Anyone know anything about them? Thanks