TomG

I'm sure the answer to this is a resounding NO, but figured I'd ask to eliminate that 1% of doubt I have left. Can the older Singers, like the 111W models, have feed reverse added to them via a mod? Thanks

As an FYI update, I contacted the store I bought it from and they are going to let me return it for some amount of exchange on a true foot controllable servo. Not sure which one, but I assume a 1000 or 1001. Thanks for the input folks.

Hi All, I have a gentleman that wants me to make some handles for his vintage fender amps. I'm going to hand stitch, but not sure what this stitch is. Also, it looks like the originals used a buckstitch type hole. Any clues tips or suggestions? Thanks

Did you fix the white issue?

Dipped both and dried just fine. No white residue. Tom

I must be missing something. You need to reach out to one of the pros. I am just going by what I remember seeing when I took my Singer clutch motor apart once. Had to replace a cork ring. My observations come from seeing nothing but threads and splines on the motor shaft and no keyway on either the pulley or the shaft. I know there are motors with the clutch mechanism between the pulley and the motor body, but I am thinking they are all smooth on the motor side of the threads with a keyway and nut to secure them. But like I said, I am in no way a pro at these.

That answers that. When you or whoever screwed that set screw in, it probably grabbed into those threads. Look at them and you'll probably see indentations in the threads. When the pulley came loose, it may have galled the threads and also either damaged the set screw tip or rolled the aluminum of the inside of the hole over the tip. Like Scott said, it may not be going all the way through to grip as tight as it used to. The clutch assembly that fits there has a pulley as part of the assembly. It has a lever that links to your foot treadle. The arm pushes a pin into the center of the motor shaft to engage that clutch. All I can think of it to replace the motor with a good servo, or if you just want to use it like it was, make sure that set screw is not damaged and that it can go all the way into the shaft hole and possibly drill a small engagement hole in the shaft for the set screw to engage... BUT, you'll likely find that the shaft is hardened and may be hard to drill Good luck Just saw your last post after mine... How are you starting and stopping the motor? Am I missing something? With a clutch motor, you should be able to feather the pedal to sew from almost a single stitch at a time to full out with some practice.

I hate to say this, but I just zoomed in on that picture and I definately see a splined shaft and what looks like a threaded end. How have you been controlling the speed?

That stuff contains some waxes and I suspect that may be what's showing up. The video on how to apply shows you rubbing it in until almost dry, it seems. I've used the Tan and Bordeaux but I apply with a sponge. Haven't tried to dip dye it. Since it's water-based, try taking a damp rag and rubbing a small spot and see if it comes off. If not, try some more of the dye on a damp sponge and run a small section with it and see if that takes it off. I'm going to dip a small piece of veg-tan scrap and see if my colors do that. Let us know if it works.

I'm not a pro at them and my 111W155 now has a servo motor, but that looks like a clutch motor with the clutch assembly missing. I don't think that is the right pulley. The motor shaft looks like a splined shaft with a threaded end that the clutch assembly would slide onto and screw down. Maybe Wiz will check in. He's one of the pros.

Ohhhhhhh.... I don't know if you'll ever get it all off. Usually you use rubber cement, not contact. Contact cement is meant to be permanent You may be able to peel some of it off and then glue on a fabric liner.

I'm not a pro, but I'm pretty sure the Pro's will advise you to post some pictures of it.

I've used Fiebings Oil Dye in Purple and it can get towards the black end pretty easily.

OMG Katsass. I just looked at your photobucket. You have a Safety Speed holder? I wore one for almost the entire time I was a cop. Loved it. Fasted rig in the world. At least at the time.

I'd try a different model or brand for sure. I'd recommend mine, if I knew what it was <g>... It was given to me years ago and is still ticking along.

Have you tried sharpening it so it goes in easily?

Here you go. First one of many. As I said, there are many variations on how you get to the finished products but these are the basics. For a plain belt, you'd leave off the grooving, highlighting, etc. http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=4416

It looks like it's just a plain old 1-1/4" or 1-1/2" wide belt with an antique brass roller buckle. You can buy a side and a strap cutter and cut your own, or buy precut straps from Tandy or Springfield or other supplier. Check the vendors at the top of the page or other links here. You can use 9-10 oz for dress belts but for equipment belts, I'd personally use 12 oz min. You will need an edge beveler to knock off the edges, hole punch for the holes, a sharp knife or end punch for the tip. If you are doing a lot, the end punch will save your life. Same with an oblong punch for the tongue slot for the buckle. You will need snap or rivet setter for securing the buckle. You'll need either pre-made keepers, or some form of staples or needle/thread to make them. Dyes or stains and finishes to your preference. The variations are endless. Sponges or duabors or something to apply them. Neatsfoot oil to condition the leather would be advisable. I recall seeing a number us tutorials on how to make belts on these forums. Do a search on BELTS and you'll be overwhelmed with info. As for HOW to dye and/or finish, you will find almost as many ways and variations on that as there are members here. In fact, there is a whole section devoted to just that. Good luck

I'd like to see someone try to get that handgun bag through airport security without enduring a body cavity search!!!

Just to clarify..... Hold the LOOSE ends of the top and bottom threads <g>..... Otherwise.. Ouch!!!

Hold tension on the top and bottom threads with your fingers for the first few stitches and see if that fixes it. That worked for me and I was told by those who should know that this is a normal requirement for many leather sewers

I have a Consew CSM-550 servo motor on my machine. I can adjust the speed with the pot on the back, but the foot pedal seems to only give me on or off control. Is this normal or should I be able to control the speed with the foot pedal? Also, it is listed as a 3450 RPM motor. Can I make it a 1725 RPM max motor any way except the speed control knob? Thanks

Old Tee shirts. I also use old jeans for burnishing. Go by a fabric store and look for cheap remnants.. although I've noticed lately that they are real proud of some of those... Another source is Home Depot. A 5 pound box of white rags (mostly cut up tee's) was around $10 last time I looked.

I got a dozen or so urine specimen jars (unused, of course) from a local doctor and they work pretty well. As you would expect, they seal tight. Plus, they are marked with the measurements on the side so it makes diluting to the same amount each time easy.

You have to get the core of the leather wet. Too much water and the leather gets mushy and looses sharpness. You will basically wet the leather front and back, then let it dry back to it's natural color. Hidepounder has a great write-up on it. Clip the link below.