TomG

Ohhhhhhh.... I don't know if you'll ever get it all off. Usually you use rubber cement, not contact. Contact cement is meant to be permanent You may be able to peel some of it off and then glue on a fabric liner.

I'm not a pro, but I'm pretty sure the Pro's will advise you to post some pictures of it.

I've used Fiebings Oil Dye in Purple and it can get towards the black end pretty easily.

OMG Katsass. I just looked at your photobucket. You have a Safety Speed holder? I wore one for almost the entire time I was a cop. Loved it. Fasted rig in the world. At least at the time.

I'd try a different model or brand for sure. I'd recommend mine, if I knew what it was <g>... It was given to me years ago and is still ticking along.

Have you tried sharpening it so it goes in easily?

Here you go. First one of many. As I said, there are many variations on how you get to the finished products but these are the basics. For a plain belt, you'd leave off the grooving, highlighting, etc. http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=4416

It looks like it's just a plain old 1-1/4" or 1-1/2" wide belt with an antique brass roller buckle. You can buy a side and a strap cutter and cut your own, or buy precut straps from Tandy or Springfield or other supplier. Check the vendors at the top of the page or other links here. You can use 9-10 oz for dress belts but for equipment belts, I'd personally use 12 oz min. You will need an edge beveler to knock off the edges, hole punch for the holes, a sharp knife or end punch for the tip. If you are doing a lot, the end punch will save your life. Same with an oblong punch for the tongue slot for the buckle. You will need snap or rivet setter for securing the buckle. You'll need either pre-made keepers, or some form of staples or needle/thread to make them. Dyes or stains and finishes to your preference. The variations are endless. Sponges or duabors or something to apply them. Neatsfoot oil to condition the leather would be advisable. I recall seeing a number us tutorials on how to make belts on these forums. Do a search on BELTS and you'll be overwhelmed with info. As for HOW to dye and/or finish, you will find almost as many ways and variations on that as there are members here. In fact, there is a whole section devoted to just that. Good luck

I'd like to see someone try to get that handgun bag through airport security without enduring a body cavity search!!!

Just to clarify..... Hold the LOOSE ends of the top and bottom threads <g>..... Otherwise.. Ouch!!!

Hold tension on the top and bottom threads with your fingers for the first few stitches and see if that fixes it. That worked for me and I was told by those who should know that this is a normal requirement for many leather sewers

I have a Consew CSM-550 servo motor on my machine. I can adjust the speed with the pot on the back, but the foot pedal seems to only give me on or off control. Is this normal or should I be able to control the speed with the foot pedal? Also, it is listed as a 3450 RPM motor. Can I make it a 1725 RPM max motor any way except the speed control knob? Thanks

Old Tee shirts. I also use old jeans for burnishing. Go by a fabric store and look for cheap remnants.. although I've noticed lately that they are real proud of some of those... Another source is Home Depot. A 5 pound box of white rags (mostly cut up tee's) was around $10 last time I looked.

I got a dozen or so urine specimen jars (unused, of course) from a local doctor and they work pretty well. As you would expect, they seal tight. Plus, they are marked with the measurements on the side so it makes diluting to the same amount each time easy.

You have to get the core of the leather wet. Too much water and the leather gets mushy and looses sharpness. You will basically wet the leather front and back, then let it dry back to it's natural color. Hidepounder has a great write-up on it. Clip the link below.

1) Make sure your leather is cased properly. There is a good thread on it here and I think it is pinned. 2) Make sure your leather is cased properly 3) Make sure your leather is cased properly. 4) Use a mallet/maul of the proper weight for the stamp size. A seeder takes let impact then a 3D stamp. 5) Stamp a piece of scrap (same leather, cased the same way) and get a feel for how hard to hit. 6) Practice 7) Practice 8) Practice Found the link http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=19121

What Curley said.... And to make the stamp stand out, use Resolene or NeatLac to block it before dying Tom

Looks like maybe Gum Trag.

Depending on the design and the leather, I often use a modeling spoon for beveling.

Well, Dwight.. I must be one of the ham handed ones. I bought the one from Hobby Lobby and it bent after the 2nd or 3rd use. Exchanged it and same thing. Got one from West Marine and it had the same issue. The West Marine sales guy (who has been there for years), said they have made them with lighter metal now. He gets lots of returns. I had an older plier-type double-cap rivet setter and it is made from metal 50% thicker than the new ones. Like a lot of things, manufacturers have cheapened up their product to save money. Tandy stamps are another example. Now, in all fairness, I WAS putting the snaps into thinner leather (about 7 oz) when they bent. So, maybe that had something to do with it. But the West Marine model is primarily used for canvas and vinyl on boats, so go figure. Tom

A single bend is one side squared off to remove the shoulders, belly and neck. A side has a back, neck, shoulder and belly. A Hide is 2 sides (the whole cow). I usually buy a side, as I sometimes need the longer lengths you get with it for belts. But I have also bought single and double bends if they look nice. It does cut down on waste a little, but I DO try to use it all. Even if for making test patterns. Tandy has a nice page that outlines it all. Pre-dyed will save you some time, for sure but someone else will have to guide you as to the pros and cons of it. I've only used the brown, but was satisfied with it for my needs. BTW, I sent you a PM about the suspenders. Thanks http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/en-usd/home/infoandservices/leatherguide/leatherguide.aspx

You can also go to a real hardware store and look in their specialty bins for door and window hardware. You'll often find small plastic pulleys that will work on some curves

These are a couple of tools designed to gouge a groove to make box corners. Kind of expensive for one or 2 uses though.

You mentioned "bathing"... Dog shampoo's can dry out the leather. Also, wet leather stretches.... some more than others, but most veg-tan does, from my experience. And that one collar looks like it has had some serious abuse... If it's undyed, why does it look like dye ran out of it? You can not be responsible for what a customer does once they receive a collar. But like shtoink said, you may have used some crappy leather (Tandy does fall short on the leather quality these days), and offering to remake it might be good for PR. On my collars, I resist letters, if needed, dye (leather does get stiff), Leather Balm with Atom Wax which softens it), apply antiques for highlighting and wipe off, seal with Saddle Lac or resolene. Finally, I apply a light coat of mink oil paste to the back, which make it pretty limber. Might not be the perfect method, but it's worked for me for a long time...

I know nothing about it, but here's a link to a spec sheet. http://www.industrialsewmachine.com/webdoc1/used/used-brochures/168g.htm