TomG

Well, I think everyone is right on point. You have multiple factors against you at the same time. 1) Wobbly table - MUST be stable and sturdy 2) Thin leather- You can actually put a piece of 8oz scrap under it when you stamp and it will help it to hold a deeper impression 3) Probably not hitting the casing right for that leather - I've found that thinner leather needs to be SLIGHTLY wetter than the heavier pieces for stamps 4) That Poly mallet isn't gonna cut it for most 3D stamps. Get a 2 or 3 pound maul or a cheap Harbor Freight Dead Blow Hammer for the big stamps. 5 ) Last but not least - Some Tandy stamps - especially the new 3D ones are crap. Try all of this and I'll bet you get better results.

I have some dyed splits that have developed a little moldy/mildew smell. I know I can use vinegar or Oxysilic acid on veg-tan to kill it, but I'm worried about ruining the nap on the splits. Any ideas or suggestions?

That's interesting.... I had purchased the Tandy "economy" punch in 1" a number of years ago.. mainly because I needed it now and they were out of the "Pro" model. It was twice as sharp as the $40 version of my 5/8" punch. I dropped that economy punch and severely chipped the end so decided to buy the "Pro" model today. I almost broke my wrist when I hit it into a 10oz strap with a 3.5 lb maul. I gave it 2 quick, hard whacks and the damn thing actually bounced off the leather! I thought it was just me, but looks like it might be the product line. That sucks!

Why not take a plastic/Pleather case, cut it open and use it to make a pattern. You can modify it to fit and look however you wish!

And if you don't want to make then, look up Bear Man. He and his son make some nice ones from Cocobolo. I have a set and use them in a Foredom Flexshaft tool. Like a jumbo Dremel. Also, find a flex shaft for your Dremel and it will give you more control. My Foredom has foot pedal for speed control. The 4000 RPM Dwight mentioned is a good place to start. You may have to experiment a little. Depending on what you use to dampen the edge, you may need to speed it up or slow it down a tad. Be careful of too much speed. It will not always be better. You can burn the fibers before that mat down. Creates a dark edge with "hair".

You need to post pictures and/or lists of what you have.

Look for the Foredom flexshaft tool. They make some sort of chisel head for it, but have never used that one. I have the handpiece with a 1/4" chuck on it and mainly use it for edge burnishing/ Oh.. I think Harbor Freight has a version of it as well

What's a hessian sack? Good job painting the cat

Looks like a good one. There used to be a YouTube video from a guy in GB that showed how to do the mods for all sorts of adapters,and even snap setters and such If I can find it, I'll post a link. Has anyone ever made their own dies for snaps, rivets, spots and so on? they seem to be quite pricey...

Hi All, I use a lot o mink oil paste on the back of my collars and leashes. I normally use Kiwi Camp Dry as it is a very stiff paste, and it usually does not affect the front of the strap, as in color shifts or irregular staining/oiling. I had purchased some Fiebings mink oil paste some time ago and stopped using it because of the issues of it absorbing unevenly from the back to front and looking blotchy. It's half the consistency of the Kiwi. I was cleaning up tonight and found it, opened it and almost passed out from the smell. I think the mink crawled back in and died! Has anyone else ever experienced this?

Has anyone found a resist that will block the Fiebings black oil dye? I apply the dye with a sponge or dauber. I've tried --- Super Sheen, Resolene, Leather Balm, Blockout and even wood Shellac! I've seen Cyber and some others use Latex, but want to hear if it is a good choice for black before buying some, or if there is something better that will work.

Go back to Springfield and look for this item: Groover, Pro Stitching Set. I tried t insert a link but something is not working right and it won't let me right now.

They do make a white dye, but it doesn't work worth a crap on veg-tan. You have to put lots of coats on and I've never been able to make it look good. And, it STINKS....

Yeah.. the alcohol strips out the oils of the leather. Read through the posts here, and you'll find many ways to fix this. Lots of folks use a light coat of NFO before or after dying. Others use Carnuba, or RTC, for Bee Natural, or other products. Personally, I use Atom Wax with Leather Balm on top and just before shipping, I rub in some thick mink oil paste to the back. Not too much or you can change the color of the item. These are mainly strap type products. But this makes most of them soft and flexible. Take some dyed and dried straps to your local leather supplier and ask if you can try some of the products and buy what works best for you.

Amen on the Leathercraft Tools book. In my opinion, it is one of the "bibles" of this craft. And light taps are definitely the right way to start out. After a while, you can feel when the rivet is seated. I then give it one more whack and I'm done. As in every other aspect, practice is key.

Your stem is too long. It needs to end about 1/16" above the uncompressed leather. There are a number of ways to trim them. Files a score line around them and try to snap the tip off is one way, but I found it to be awkward at beast. I use a pair of flush cutting nippers to cut the tip above the leather. I then use the nippers to reshape it to some semblance of a round shaft again. Never had a problem with them holding or he caps being lined up.

As cheap as commercially made glue is, I'm not sure why you'd want to make your own, buy you might do an Internet search on a book called Dr Chase's Recipies. It's a free book if memory serves me.

I stamp a good bit of 3/4. And your thoughts on putting a heavier piece of scrap under it is a good one. It will make a world of difference. Try some different firmnesses of leather to get the impression you want. I haven't used my arbor press is a while so I really don't remember if I used a piece under those jobs or not.

Magnets and any card with a stripe are an invitation to having the card erased or scrambled. I'd keep them well apart.

Check this thread http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=52488&hl=

I have a rotary New Hermes Engravograph for plastics that I have experimented with. Does a pretty good job as long as I adjust the cutter to the proper depth, but it's a fixed depth of cut. Places like Disney, Six Flags, etc that sell the engraved, pre-made bracelets and engrave your name on while you wait, use a digital rotary engrave like the M20. With its computer interface, I can cut a wide variety of designs. But again... it's pretty much a fixed cutting depth. I would think a CNC milling machine and a small cutting bit would let you cut almost an design into the leather. Post some pic of your tests!

Thanks. I'll have to try that for my edger...

Cool Tool. I use a big plastic paperclip with a piece of felt to apply edge dressing. Same idea, but yours is slicker!!! What did you use? a dowel rod The smell was not vinegar. it was a rusty - musty -- weird smell. Can't remember it exactly no. Been a few since used it. But your description my be similar.

Hey Todd, I am NOT a Vingaroon pro by any means, but I have used it. I stopped because I could never get the smell out. But... My Roon was never coal black. My 1st batch was a rusty color and my second batch was rusty as well, but not as dark. Both dyed well. I always used Resolene diluted 50/50 with water for my finish coat. But I actually used the Roon for dying the whole piece... not as an edge dye. Once think I would be careful of is the wicking effect of the leather. I'd experiment with it fist to make sure it's not going to oak in further than the edges.

RE the Skiver - Tandy has the same thing for $8. It uses a old-style single edge razor blade to do the cutting. I've used the Tandy one but not the Osborne. I assume from the picture the Osborne looks to use the same.