TomG

I just bought a guide for Gregg at Keystone for my Singer 111W155. Although I had to drill and tap 1 hole, it was a pretty easy task and works like a champ. I think it was a clone/Asian version of the Juki, but he can fill you in on any particulars for your needs. He's good to do business with.

Just an FYI to this thread. I modified a Consew CS-1000 and it works great. Just a couple of notes. This motor (new last month or 2), has a VERY bright LED. A piece of paper did NOT work. I had to use a heavy piece of plastic (cut up old gift card). I made a modified sloped pieced and taped it under the original arm. One issue I noticed is that with the original heavy paper I used, it started sagging and changed the amount of light allowed through. The plastic will stop that, but I don't trust the tape for a permanent solution. I have also bought a couple of spare arms from SE Sewing and am going to modify one to make a shallower slope and will report on how it works.

A machine shop will have thread gauges to tell you if it's a SAE, NF or Metric thread. It may not be so much a secret as no one really knows <g>... Tom

Well, it says you can't get any new messages...

The LL address is via my webhost. I have an Enterprise account and I manage 3 or 4 websites, including my own. I really haven't had issues with anything else. Not to say it's not an internal problem on my end... I switched my email address here to my charter.net address and now get notifications on the forums I follow. Gonna send you a PM with what I see on the server.

True, Cyber, but for some reason, the emails from the forum are coming into my email server as an IP address that IS listed as a poor reputation. That's why they get junked. I changed to my personal email address and am getting the emails. But I'd like to find out why this is happening to my legacyleathercraft.com emails.

I checked with my ISP and they said the server used to send them out here is on a Barracuda Block List. I emailed admin here to ask them to see if anyone else has the issue and maybe send their IP address in to unblock it. In the mean time, I'm going to have to use a different email address and see if it goes through Later

Thanks. I'll check my local welding supplier and see what they have. I haven't brazed anything since high school. Forgot all about that method.

I need to make some custom links out of brass D-rings and round rings. Can anyone tell me the best way to weld the ends back together after I cut and link them? Thanks

Is anyone else having problems following forums? I used to get emails for all posts in forums that I follow but I haven't gotten a single one in a while now.

I know a lot of folks say resist is not for use with dyes, but I have been using them to create highlighted stamped lettering for a long time now. Early on, I had picked up some sort of hard fiber nibs from a scrapbook store. I mount them in a handle and use 100% Resolene for my resist. It worked really well because I could paint the resist on like a pen. After a while, the tip would get where I couldn't trim and reshape it, so I'd replace it. Now, my local stores no longer care them. I'm using a brush now, but it's not my strongest skill <g>... I sometimes get uneven resist layers that let a little more dye through in one area than another and makes the highlights uneven. What do you guys use to apply your resist to letters and such?

Just an FYI --- Harbor Freight has their 20-ton hydraulic press on sale right now for $149.00. That's $130 off. Later

Thanks to all. The Wawak.com site seems to have the best bang for the buck.

Who carries a variety of smaller spools of 69, 138 and 207 thread. I don't always need a 1 pound spool of certain colors. Also, what weight is the standard Coats and Clarke type of upholstery thread?

Dip dyeing is definitely out then <g>... Yeah. Any wax, sealer, gum trag, lacquer etc will block the dye. If I need a smooth back, I sand, do any stamping or carving, then dye, burnish the edges, seal the top on oil or burnish the back and possibly seal it. All depends on what I'm making.

What the above 2 said and then try to dip dye and see if that works for you

This company has a ton of webbing. I have no idea if they have that color as they seem to be sort of an "overstock" supply company, but a quick call can answer that for you. Casto Trading Company 1898 Railroad St Statham,GA 30666 (770) 725-2424 Good luck

Some folks use a piece of 1/2" felt, dip in dye or edge dressing and pull along the edge. I usually use a modified wool dauber. I take it outside and use a lighter to burn it until it's about 1/4" in diameter. It's not critical. Once it's the size I want, I blow it out and knock the shell off. This leaves a hard, roundish ball with a handle. Dip into dye or edge dressing and apply to the edge. I usually use the edge dressing as if I miss and get a little on the front, I can wipe it off as long as I do it immediately. All of this is after I do the edge burnishing stuff.

Before you order from China or Germany, check with Gregg here first. I won't quote prices he gave me here, but he might be able to meet or beat that and not make you have to worry about adapters, screws, etc... And customs, overseas shipping, etc. I was advised by the Kwokhing guy to look at one of 3 models... The GB series. They look identical to the KG767 series devices. I was quoted just under $20 USD for the device. Not sure what S&H would be.

Try here: http://www.kwokhing.com/guide/ Look at KG767B or the GB6 I contacted them but the guy who answered didn't seem to be 100% sure which one would fit the Singer. He said the guy who knows these machines was out until next week some time. I seem to recall someone a while back on the group here had put one on the W155 but I can't find that post.

I have a "T" shaped guide, but the only place I can see to attach it is the bobbin cover...Those 2 holes in the cover on that Pfaff photo above are the same as the Singer cover I've attached it to. But, as you can guess, a movable cover is NOT what you want an edge guide hooked to. AND, I had to make very sure the screws didn't get in the way of the hook, bobbin or thread... The one on the Pfaff would be perfect. I have no problem drilling and tapping a couple of holes. I figure between the crew here, someone can point me to the right one. Would that model fit the 155? Thanks Oh.. Gregg... You might have some better solutions. I am not familiar with some that you mentioned, like roller guide on plate. Recommendations?

I was looking at Kwokhing.com for an edge guide. I emailed tham as I didn't see this machine listed. Does anyone know which one will work? Or is there a US source for a good guide? Thanks

Hahah That's what I've been doing both at times. I seem to have better results with stitching a couple in the reverse direction and then spinning the piece around. If I stitch 2 or 3, pull forward and stitch, I seem to miss the first holes about 50% of the time. Need to improve my lighting, I think!

Yeah.. Saw the vid. Looks fairly straight-forward. Looks like a variable resistance optical switch on the control. The problem with the CSM-550 I have now if that it has what looks like a very poorly designed speed control circuit. It uses a magnet on the end of the pedal control link and the link moves it closer to a magnetic switch to activate the motor. I've found that if the speed switch is at max, I can feather the pedal and vary the speed, but it's touchy. That tells me that the mag switch is probably not a simple on-off magnetic reed switch like they used years ago for stuff. But if it has the ability to vary the speed at max settings, it should also be able to vary the speed at lower max speed settings. The control is an epoxy sealed module so I can't see the circuitry and no one seems to have a schematic, so I am assuming a lot here, based on 45 years in the electronics fields in one form or another. It just puzzles me why a company would produce a motor that you can not control the speed of with the foot pedal, and then sell it for use on an application where foot control is almost essential to it's function. Off my soapbox now <g>

Yea... Figured it was something like that. If I start using the W155 more, I'll probably trade it in for a Consew or something. Thanks.