TomG

I know a lot of folks say resist is not for use with dyes, but I have been using them to create highlighted stamped lettering for a long time now. Early on, I had picked up some sort of hard fiber nibs from a scrapbook store. I mount them in a handle and use 100% Resolene for my resist. It worked really well because I could paint the resist on like a pen. After a while, the tip would get where I couldn't trim and reshape it, so I'd replace it. Now, my local stores no longer care them. I'm using a brush now, but it's not my strongest skill <g>... I sometimes get uneven resist layers that let a little more dye through in one area than another and makes the highlights uneven. What do you guys use to apply your resist to letters and such?

Just an FYI --- Harbor Freight has their 20-ton hydraulic press on sale right now for $149.00. That's $130 off. Later

Thanks to all. The Wawak.com site seems to have the best bang for the buck.

Who carries a variety of smaller spools of 69, 138 and 207 thread. I don't always need a 1 pound spool of certain colors. Also, what weight is the standard Coats and Clarke type of upholstery thread?

Dip dyeing is definitely out then <g>... Yeah. Any wax, sealer, gum trag, lacquer etc will block the dye. If I need a smooth back, I sand, do any stamping or carving, then dye, burnish the edges, seal the top on oil or burnish the back and possibly seal it. All depends on what I'm making.

What the above 2 said and then try to dip dye and see if that works for you

This company has a ton of webbing. I have no idea if they have that color as they seem to be sort of an "overstock" supply company, but a quick call can answer that for you. Casto Trading Company 1898 Railroad St Statham,GA 30666 (770) 725-2424 Good luck

Some folks use a piece of 1/2" felt, dip in dye or edge dressing and pull along the edge. I usually use a modified wool dauber. I take it outside and use a lighter to burn it until it's about 1/4" in diameter. It's not critical. Once it's the size I want, I blow it out and knock the shell off. This leaves a hard, roundish ball with a handle. Dip into dye or edge dressing and apply to the edge. I usually use the edge dressing as if I miss and get a little on the front, I can wipe it off as long as I do it immediately. All of this is after I do the edge burnishing stuff.

Before you order from China or Germany, check with Gregg here first. I won't quote prices he gave me here, but he might be able to meet or beat that and not make you have to worry about adapters, screws, etc... And customs, overseas shipping, etc. I was advised by the Kwokhing guy to look at one of 3 models... The GB series. They look identical to the KG767 series devices. I was quoted just under $20 USD for the device. Not sure what S&H would be.

Try here: http://www.kwokhing.com/guide/ Look at KG767B or the GB6 I contacted them but the guy who answered didn't seem to be 100% sure which one would fit the Singer. He said the guy who knows these machines was out until next week some time. I seem to recall someone a while back on the group here had put one on the W155 but I can't find that post.

I have a "T" shaped guide, but the only place I can see to attach it is the bobbin cover...Those 2 holes in the cover on that Pfaff photo above are the same as the Singer cover I've attached it to. But, as you can guess, a movable cover is NOT what you want an edge guide hooked to. AND, I had to make very sure the screws didn't get in the way of the hook, bobbin or thread... The one on the Pfaff would be perfect. I have no problem drilling and tapping a couple of holes. I figure between the crew here, someone can point me to the right one. Would that model fit the 155? Thanks Oh.. Gregg... You might have some better solutions. I am not familiar with some that you mentioned, like roller guide on plate. Recommendations?

I was looking at Kwokhing.com for an edge guide. I emailed tham as I didn't see this machine listed. Does anyone know which one will work? Or is there a US source for a good guide? Thanks

Hahah That's what I've been doing both at times. I seem to have better results with stitching a couple in the reverse direction and then spinning the piece around. If I stitch 2 or 3, pull forward and stitch, I seem to miss the first holes about 50% of the time. Need to improve my lighting, I think!

Yeah.. Saw the vid. Looks fairly straight-forward. Looks like a variable resistance optical switch on the control. The problem with the CSM-550 I have now if that it has what looks like a very poorly designed speed control circuit. It uses a magnet on the end of the pedal control link and the link moves it closer to a magnetic switch to activate the motor. I've found that if the speed switch is at max, I can feather the pedal and vary the speed, but it's touchy. That tells me that the mag switch is probably not a simple on-off magnetic reed switch like they used years ago for stuff. But if it has the ability to vary the speed at max settings, it should also be able to vary the speed at lower max speed settings. The control is an epoxy sealed module so I can't see the circuitry and no one seems to have a schematic, so I am assuming a lot here, based on 45 years in the electronics fields in one form or another. It just puzzles me why a company would produce a motor that you can not control the speed of with the foot pedal, and then sell it for use on an application where foot control is almost essential to it's function. Off my soapbox now <g>

Yea... Figured it was something like that. If I start using the W155 more, I'll probably trade it in for a Consew or something. Thanks.

I'm sure the answer to this is a resounding NO, but figured I'd ask to eliminate that 1% of doubt I have left. Can the older Singers, like the 111W models, have feed reverse added to them via a mod? Thanks

As an FYI update, I contacted the store I bought it from and they are going to let me return it for some amount of exchange on a true foot controllable servo. Not sure which one, but I assume a 1000 or 1001. Thanks for the input folks.

Hi All, I have a gentleman that wants me to make some handles for his vintage fender amps. I'm going to hand stitch, but not sure what this stitch is. Also, it looks like the originals used a buckstitch type hole. Any clues tips or suggestions? Thanks

Did you fix the white issue?

Dipped both and dried just fine. No white residue. Tom

I must be missing something. You need to reach out to one of the pros. I am just going by what I remember seeing when I took my Singer clutch motor apart once. Had to replace a cork ring. My observations come from seeing nothing but threads and splines on the motor shaft and no keyway on either the pulley or the shaft. I know there are motors with the clutch mechanism between the pulley and the motor body, but I am thinking they are all smooth on the motor side of the threads with a keyway and nut to secure them. But like I said, I am in no way a pro at these.

That answers that. When you or whoever screwed that set screw in, it probably grabbed into those threads. Look at them and you'll probably see indentations in the threads. When the pulley came loose, it may have galled the threads and also either damaged the set screw tip or rolled the aluminum of the inside of the hole over the tip. Like Scott said, it may not be going all the way through to grip as tight as it used to. The clutch assembly that fits there has a pulley as part of the assembly. It has a lever that links to your foot treadle. The arm pushes a pin into the center of the motor shaft to engage that clutch. All I can think of it to replace the motor with a good servo, or if you just want to use it like it was, make sure that set screw is not damaged and that it can go all the way into the shaft hole and possibly drill a small engagement hole in the shaft for the set screw to engage... BUT, you'll likely find that the shaft is hardened and may be hard to drill Good luck Just saw your last post after mine... How are you starting and stopping the motor? Am I missing something? With a clutch motor, you should be able to feather the pedal to sew from almost a single stitch at a time to full out with some practice.

I hate to say this, but I just zoomed in on that picture and I definately see a splined shaft and what looks like a threaded end. How have you been controlling the speed?

That stuff contains some waxes and I suspect that may be what's showing up. The video on how to apply shows you rubbing it in until almost dry, it seems. I've used the Tan and Bordeaux but I apply with a sponge. Haven't tried to dip dye it. Since it's water-based, try taking a damp rag and rubbing a small spot and see if it comes off. If not, try some more of the dye on a damp sponge and run a small section with it and see if that takes it off. I'm going to dip a small piece of veg-tan scrap and see if my colors do that. Let us know if it works.

I'm not a pro at them and my 111W155 now has a servo motor, but that looks like a clutch motor with the clutch assembly missing. I don't think that is the right pulley. The motor shaft looks like a splined shaft with a threaded end that the clutch assembly would slide onto and screw down. Maybe Wiz will check in. He's one of the pros.