TomG

I was given a Foredom Flexshaft grinder but it does not have the handpiece. Since I have to buy one and my research shows more than I wanted to consider, I figured I'd ask those who have them and use them. So, for leather work,m what handpice would be best? #30, #44, #43 or some other. Is there an economy model that wil work as well for less cost than what I am seeing on-line? Thanks Tom

Looking for a handpiece that will fit the Foredom Flexshaft. Thanks TOm

Glad it worked out for you Tom

I'm looking for one of the adjustable hand punches for punching the holes for spots. Weaver has them new for about $9.50 but needs a $200 min. first order, which we are not ready to do yet. So if you have an extra you'd sell, please let me know and how much you'd want for it. Thanks Tom

Did you ever find one of these? I may have one that I could loan you but I would need it back Tom

Anyone have an adjustable spot punch tool they would like to sell? Thanks Tom

Thanks again for the info. I definately don't want to burn the machine up. We mainly have used it in our embroidery business for sewing up things like chair backs, heavy canvas items that we have to open up to embroider. Being new at this, I am trying to explore our options. I had picked up the #277 by mistake. With the way the machine handled it, I would never try to sew an actual job with it. Just because it worked does not mean that it worked well. <g>... If we ever get to the point that we are sewing more than the occasional piece, I'll certainly buy a dedicated machine. I'm big on "the right tool for the right job". Later, Tom

Thanks for the in-depth info. It was greatly appreciated and helped a bunch. I went over the SE Sewing Saturday and picked up some #23 leather needles, a few feet of 138 thead and tried again. SUCCESS!!! Plus - I found out I had been trying to use 277 thread and not 207. I loaded the 277 back into bobbin and top and with the #23 leather needles, I was able to actually sew the 1/4+" leather. The machine definately struggled, but I think a smaller pulley on the motor will likely fix that....and maybe going back to the #24 needle once I do the pulley conversion. Is the pulley anything special? Thanks for all the help. Tom

I have this machine also and am just starting to try and use it for leather. I picked up a small test bundle of 207 thread and some 135x17, size 24 needles. I don't know how to tell if they are Leather needles or not. labeled SY3355 and DPx17 I loaded some of the thread onto a bobbin, put it in, and tried a number if upper tensios but got shaft lockouts, jams, and all sorts of issues. Am I trying to use too large a thread with this machine, or did I use too large a needle? I was trying to sew through a piece of slightly under 1/4" veg-tan with a thin piece of upholstery leather glued to the back. Thanks Tom

Thanks.

Similar, but a little larger. Thanks

What size leather do I use to make stirrup straps? TOm

Have any of you had any luck dying upholstery leather. I tried using spirit dye (Feibings) allowed to dry overnight, topped it with leather balm w/ atom wax. a week later, I am getting some rub off. Any ideas? Tom

Cool... So it looks like a strap with an folded end strap all tied together with what, rawhide, latigo strips? I've done some web surfing and found a bunch of pix of split reins abnd some I can see how they are built and some are not so clear. I think I'll stop by a tack store tomorrow and browse. Thanks

Thanks. Now I'll show my complete noobie-ness. Where can I find definitions/pictures of what you are referring to? I seem to recall seing them somewhere but can't recall where. Do you oil with Neat's Foot oil or some other oil? Thanks Tom

We've been asked to make some reins. Since it looks fairly simple, I'm sure I can screw it up. Any tips, tricks, things to watch out for? What are the standards, if any. Or point me in the right direction? Thanks Tom

I don't know... That guide looks too hi-tech for me.... <g> Tom

I saw a video the other day of someone sewing a riffle sling on a commercial machine. He had this slick swing-away guide that kept his stitching prefectly straight. Basically, it looked like an arm like you'd see on the legs of a card table with a samll wheel or vertical plate at the end that the leather rode against. Does anyone have any idea of what I am describig, or have any input into machine guides? I did see someone mention a magnetic guide. where do I find those? Tom

Hi All, I have searched the forums and can't find an answer to this.. I made a nice leash for someone from 10 oz Latigo. It was a "remake" of her existing leash, which she had broken and wanted the same snap on a new one for sentimental reasons... We aim to please. She has asked me how to "soften" it. I thought it was pretty soft as it was. However, her old one was pretty flimsy and really flexible from years of handling.. probably body oil - human and dog.. Any tips on what she can use on it to soften/condition it without damaging it? Also, isn't Latigo pretty water resistant as-is? thanks Tom

I am still struggling with a tandy pre-stamped belt. It is the one with the spread winged eagle on it. I have dyed the whole thing black, but am not trying to paint the eagles a metallic silver. I need to put the paint just on the raised surfaced of the eagle and not let it flow into the cuts and valleys. I have used a very lightly loaded brush on one of them but it either does not apply enough acrylic to the surface and looks sort of washed out, or it flows into the valley, messing up the texture of the image. Any tips or tricks for doing these better? I am not steady eough to paint every single line on every eagle on this thing. Thanks Tom

I bought one of the hand embossing wheel tools from Tandy and while it seems to do a good job of laying down the impression, I am having a heck of a time rolling out a straight impression on a long strap. I'm just not steady enough. Is there a trick or tip or setup anyone has to help? I'd really like to use it, but if I can't keep the thing straight, it's useless to me. thanks Tom