TomG

I'm working towards making a rawhide maul, but right now am just fooling around with the rawhide. The dog chew is cheap stuff for sure. Very rough and uneven. It looks like it will only be good for roughing in an idea here and there. Tom

I agree. They are not even close to what I've seen at Tandy. I just don't like messing up perfectly good leather to experiment and learn OF a cheap substitute will do. For example, I would probably not do a lot of dying and staining practice on anything other than the hide I was going to use in production. As for Tandy, our local store doesn't have a scrap bin that I am aware of. They do have some scraps they sell but I think they charge around $10 a pound or so. And I have never seen rawhide in there. And we never give our dogs rawhide either. I've seen too many dog wind up in surgery or dead Later Tom

WOW! Thank you so much for that in-depth look. More answer than I ever expected! As for a slipping grip, it would look ugly, but if you want a sure-grip solution, you could take tennis racket replacement grips and wrap the hamdle with that. The only way you would ever lose your grip is if you let go. They are very tacky and meant to get tackier with sweat.... Most have an adhesive that will stick to the handle. The overgrips will be tacky but don't have the adhesive. Thanks again for the great tutorial Tom

I don't think I've ever seen a rawhide maul at a flea market. But I'll be keeping my eyes peeled <g>

I am playing with some rawhide dog bones. I took a small one and soaked it overnight, Once soft, I unrolled it, flattened it and rerolled it into a mini mallet head shape. It's not tightly rolled enough to be usable, even if it were the right size, but I wanted to see what it would do. Looking at my mallet, I'm not sure how I would wind it as tight as they have it. I have never worked with rawhide and have since found out I should have cased it like veg tan. Maybe that would have let me wind it tighter.... Someone told me that the dog chews are not good quality rawhide. And the ones I saw at the store had been bleached. But Tandy also carries bleached rawhide, so I don't know how itmakes a difference. And I wouldn't know how to tell quality rawhide from junk. So, for $3 - $6, depending on size, you could try it out and see. Tom

I have a few questions on working rawhide. As in - I know nothing about it and want to learn. I am considering making a rawhide maul for fun and experience. Tandy has some small rolls of it that I will probably use. I guess my plan is to cut a bunch of circles and then stack them together with a bolt through them and a wooden handle, The rawhide is a roll and is hard. So I assume I have to soak it. How long? Overnight? My plan is to get it soft, lay it out flat and let it dry flat under some type of panel or weight. Then cut it u with a circle cutter, wet them to re-soften, stack between a couple of plates with a bolt to tighten. Does this sound right so far? Do I need to use some sort of adhesive on them as well? How would this work on wet rawhide? Thanks in advance. Tom

Have you tried wrapping the wooden maul with a strip or 2 of rawhide? I am currently researching how to make a rawhode maul myself. Now I'm sorry I traded my wood lathe <g> Tom

Well, it softened up enough overnight so it is pliable. I'll let you knwo how the little project turns out.

Here's a strange one for you. I need some small pieces of rawhide to experiment with and have never used it. So, I had a brainstorm. Why not use some of those rawhide dog bone chew toys. I got a small one and put it in a glass of water. After about 2 hours, it;'s still pretty hard. How long does it take to soften? Or do they coat it with something? Tom

Besides, I promised my wife - No more esterfication in public..... It embarasses her Tom

Wow Art. Thanks for the info. I would never try to make my own. It's not that expensive. And I remember enough Of chemistry to know better. Vinegar and baking soda comes to mind. As does never put water on or in acid. Put acid in water Tom

I went back and read the whole thing and don't see anything to indicate why that range. And Fiebing's site only shows a #12 Deglazer. MAybe they had different strengths at one time or other??? Who knows.... Tom

Or 80%, deending on how you look at it.......

Well, I answered my own question <g>.... From Fiebings MSDS sheet: Ingredients (Specific) % Ethyl Acetate 70 - 90 % Ethyl Alcohol 10 - 30 % Tom

I was a Tandy today and the label said it was Ethylene Acetate or something like that. Is smelled like Toulene/Xylene and Lemon Has anyone ever tried MEK? Anything to that? Tom

I don't think I'd have a problem making a guide similar to the one on the Tandy machine. I'm not sure how that ram foot connects though. I may stop by Tandy next week and take a look. On the guide, a while back, I was playing around with an adjustable guide that would allow me to put a collar or belt in it and use one of the hand embossing wheels to make an impression the length of the strap, and keep it straight. Never got it off the paper stage. As for pricing, I guess the high price is a demand thing. They probably don't sell a whole bunch of those....so the price is cranked up. Tom

Hi Dwight, I wondered how that would work. How do you attach the stamps or posts? I would think you would have to in order to line stuff up Tom

I'm interested in picking one of these up Thanks Tom

Thanks for the reply. The alignment issue is one of the main reasons I was asking about them. I do the 4-point tipping with the heavy handle when I stamp and occasionally have to restrike a few to get them even depth. But lining them up can be a chore. Is Tandy the only one who makes or sells these? Tom

Hi all, Got a few questions. Do any of you use the Tandy Imprinter machine for stamping? How well does it work? Does anyone make one besides Tandy, or can I use an arbor press instead? Thanks Tom Legacy Leathercraft

Check Harbor Freight Tools. they have inexpensive airbrushes and compressors that work well... at least the compressor does. After you master the airbrush, you might want to buy a more expensive one.

Beggars can't be choosers <g>. What do you have and how much are they? ********************************************************************** Hi Donna, I'm looking for used if possible. Trying to keep the costs down since I don't know how often I'll be using this tool. So far about the best I've found is around $50. I'd like to find a #43 or #44 since they will handle up to 1/4" tools. Do you have any spares to sell? Thanks Tom

Well, I only found a couple of places that carry the 43/44 model and all are new. Any tips on where to find used? Tom

Hi Donna, I'm looking for used if possible. Trying to keep the costs down since I don't know how often I'll be using this tool. So far about the best I've found is around $50. I'd like to find a #43 or #44 since they will handle up to 1/4" tools. Do you have any spares to sell? Thanks Tom

Thanks. I put a Wanted ad on the forum a while ago, so maybe one will turn up. If not, I'll just buy a new one I suppose. I was using a Dremel but is went south and only runs at max speed now. NOT good for burnishing <g>... tends to burn the leather. Later, Tom