TomG

Here's the link. It's under Chapter 9 http://www.tpub.com/content/aviation/14218/index.htm Tom

Yeah.. Sure... Replace the J-Hook myself. Uh Huh.. Actually, I could probably do it. I've aligned the hook on our 12-needle embroidery machine.. And I have the service and parts manual for the W155. And I am very mechanically adept. The question was "Do I want to"??? Hell no.... the hook is $80. Another $20 for the tension and foot stuff. It's actually worth the $$$ in labor to not have to screw with it,. I decided to go ahead and have them do it. I got to thinking and recalled that every time I go to sew up the back of a folding chair we've emboidered, I have to sew a bunch of test stitches to get the slop out of the bobbin side, and that is never a guarantee.... Screw it... I'm tired of messing with it. If they do it right, I'm good to go on several fronts.. If they don't, they are local and I can go and become a pest Thanks for all of the advise. I'll try the different needle/thread combo when I get it back. Tom

I would never sell something broken or in need of repair without full disclosure.... I just hate to keep pouring money into this machine. The place I took it to has a good rep and does lots of industrial business. But they are tell my it won't sew 138 or higher reliably. Folks here say it will. I put some 138 in and it seemed to do OK but has the random bunching and jamming on the bobbin side...same as the 69 thread... so a bad J-Hook makes sense.... Oh.. A J-hook is the device with the point that the bobbin fits into and slings the thread around to make your stitch.... Let's see. I spent $50 on a "tech" to come by the house and "fix" it for this problem a few months ago. Stopped sewing right the next day. Can't get hold of him now.. Surprise.... Just put a servo motor on it to slow it down.... That part is good. So now I have to put another $275 into it for this repair.... With what I paid for it and will have spent, I could have ALMOST bought a new Consew or something else...... I'm just frustrated, I guess. We do not have enough business right now to justify a whole lot of expense for this machine... But I guess I'll have to bite the bullet and do it.... End of Venting...! Tom

I put the 155 in the shop for a check, as the bobbin tension had a problem. They are telling me that it needs a couple fo tension springs and a new J-hook. Not sure if I want to inveast that much into it or save up for a Consew 206 or something like it. I need something that will do heavy fabric AND leather. Is the Consew 205 or 206 better and what wo9uld be a fair price on a used one? Thanks Tom

Hi Steve. I was inquirubg as to the needle size (20, 22, etc) and the size thread you can use with the 155... 69, 138, etc. Tom

Kevin, What size needles and threads do you use? What's the largest thead you've sewn with? Tom

Thanks Jeff, I haven't seen it yet, so I have no idea of the overall condition. I agree with the teardown.... I wouldn't even attempt this unless I took it apart so I could take pictures during each step. I'll keep you posted if I proceed with it. Tom

Thanks. Mauifarrier had already steered me to your site and I spent an hour or so reading your info packed pages. I appreciate the efforts this takes, I had no ideait was so involved. I have done some woodworking in the past, so I can appreciate the difficulty and attention to detail it requires. IF she really wants me to do this and IF I decide to make the attempt, I'll definately be giving you a call. Tom

I assume that whichever way I went, I'd strip off all the leather prior to sending it in and then reinstall it when it comes back? Oh.. Meant to ask. I was looking online and saw saddle referred to as 15", 16" etc, What are they measuring? One of the 16" said it fit 90% of the horses in the USA...??? True??? I would think you'd have to measure a horse and pick something that fit it's back... BUT, I'm still learning, so what do I know

Thanks. I'll check them out.

I have never done a saddle repair, but have wanted to see what is involved. My nephew's girlfirend lives on a farm and has one that she says has a broken tree. What is involved in repair of the tree or does it need to be replaced? I assume "replaced" but just don't know. If it needs to be replaced where can I read up on what is involved or find a tutorial. I've looked through most of the posts and realize that the first thing I need to do is learn some terminology. Back to scanning and reading <g> Thanks in advance. Tom

I use a dauber or a foam brush to apply it liberally, and then use a plastic slicker to rub it in. I would imagine any hard. smooth, flat item would work. Hmmm.. We also make vinyl signs... I wonder how one of our sign squeegees would work. They are pretty rigid and may do the job. And they are cheap... Under a buck and last forever - unless you nick them. I'll try it as soon as I get a chance. Tom

I make a lot of dog collars and ladies bracelets. I genrally use Mink Oil paste, but have used GT. Tom

My splitter (that I picked up used) tends to cut straps in half and at an angle if I try to split a long strap. I am assuming that the roller adjustment is off. Is there a procedure for adjusting the 2 screws on either side of the roller and the blade,, etcx? Thanks Tom

Is it possible to braid 4 strands using trhe mystery braid technique? If so, can you point me to a tutorial on it? I found the 3 strand and a 5 strand tutorial, but not a 4. Tom

Thanks. On this particular band, the stamping is so close to the edge, a stitch groover would cut too much of the design, which the lady didn't want. I remade the entire thing and used contact cement to secure everything. Then burnished the edges together and so on. I do have a couple smaller machines in the garage. I' need to dig them out and see if any of them are capable of doing this weight leather. Later. Tom

I meant to ask you a few of questions: 1) What is the biggest thread you can sew with. 2) What is the thickest leather you've sewn? 3) Do you have a clutch motor or have you gone to the serve? Thanks Tom

Don't think I can justify a new machine to my wife, since we use it seldomly. Since this is a walking foot machine, how does a roller foot feed the leather? As for the speed, I press the foot pedal to just engage the clutch lightly, and turn the wheel by hand and gentle add speed with the pedal. Occasionally, it will get away from me for a second, but I'm usually using it to sew folding chairbacks together after embroidering them, so a little high speed doesn't hurt. But small work on leather is a whole new ballgame <G> Tom

I think it's a 20 or 22.. Don't remember. But it is not a leather needle. The only leather needle I have right now is a 23. It's huge for this band I'm attaching some photos. Thanks Tom

I recently made a 1/2" wide watch band and when I tried to sew it, I screwed it up. I could not keep the needle in a straight line. And when I made the turn at the top and bottom, it pulled in the corners. they were not square. I have a Singer 111W155. It is set to sew garments (saving up for a servo motor) but I know how to slow it donw and sew slow with what is in it. I used #69 thread top and bottom. Does anyone have any tips for sewing these small items straight? Anyone ever make their own guide for a machine like this? Tom

OK, I'm "relatively" new to all of this, but in browsing some on-line catalogs, I found a BK 5 POUND maul!! Thats' not a maul.. it's a sledge hammer <g>.... What would you ever use that for???? Even with 1/4" leather, I can put an end strap cutter through in 1, maybe 2 smacks.... Tom

Well, I sort of THINK I see some roughish spots. But I don't see any ridges or rolls.. Nor can I feel them. I'll keep stropping for a while and see if it helps. Which side is best to use with the rouge? Flesh or grain side of the leather? Also, when should I add more rouge? As I strop, the surface of the leather/rouge turns black. Is this OK? Tom

I have 3 swivel knives that I have picked up with used tool purchases at various times. 2 are standard handles with the larger blades and the 3rd is an adjustable with a smaller angle blade. I have stropped the fire out of them and they have mirror-like faces. One of the standard blades cuts like it's going through butter. The other 2 (standard and angle) feel like they are sort of dragging. --- as if the leather was too dry. But I don't think it is since the 1st knife cuts so smoothly. They just feel rough as they cut. I have examined them and the only difference I can see is that the smooth cutting blade has a bit of a steeper pitch to it, ie, it has a longer face, than the other 2. I wouldn't think that it would make a difference this way, but what else could cause it to cut rough? Thanks Tom

I picked these up and have no use for them. One is marked 54 and one marked 57. One has a square tip. The black one has a tip that may be damaged, but if so, would be repairable with a grinder. I'm just not sure what it's supposed to look like. I think there are about 6 or 7 in total. The punch is about 1/4" and is actually a light metal punch from 1922. Works well on leather. I do not know what they are worth, so if you want them, please make me an honest offer. I'll send better pictures if you are interested. I figure about $5-$6 for S&H Tom

I know this is an old thread, but never did see it answered clearly. The spiral cut answer is close. If you take a side/hide and round the "corners" you can start at a corner and cut all the way around the side almost as many times as you need to get a continuous strip. You then can straighten it. Good luck Tom