TomG

What I do , and many others from what I've read is to use an edge beveler tool on both the top and bottom edges. I then do all of my stamping/tooling. Then dye - including the edges if needed. Next I take a wet sponge, and dipping a side in water, and rubbing it on saddle soap, then use that to wet the edges only. You don;t have to go crazy, but you need them damp. Since you can't use power tools, you can use a round plastic pulley wheel type of slicker, or, what many do is to use a piece of coarse canvas to burnish them. If I don't feel like going down to the shop and am doing a single collar, for example, I'll take the canvas in one hand, put the strap in it and use the grooves of my fingers and thump to create a channel, pull the strap through while applying pressure. It doesn't take long to get a nice hard edge. I finish the edges with edge dressing most of the time. Instead of the saddle soap, you can also use Gum Trag which will seal the edges. Same procedure as above. Tom

I can think of 2 methods to do this. First, is to use a product called "Picture This" from Plaid. It's seems to be an involved process, but I've seen pictures of some very nice work done on leather wallets with it. The other method, and the likely one, is that it was printed on using a DTG printer. A DTG printer is basically a high-end Epson color inkjet printer engine that has been modified/built to print on T-shirts and other items directly. Yo would just place the item on the flatbed table carrier and print. Drawbacks??? They start at around $15,000. . TO try it, you might check with screen printers who have them and see if they would do a test run for you. Tom

Hi Sylvia, Back on Page 1 I think, was a drawing of a device with 2 small holes and a larger center hole. I'll bet money that if you made one of these and used it to punch at the edge of your awl mark, you'd be a lot better off. It is self centering no matter what the width. But I've found the key to REASONABLY accurate hole spacing is to put the edge of the punch on the awl mark and not try to center it over the mark. And with Plexigalss, you'll be able to see where it's going. All of that being said, I did have a similar problem once when using a leather template. Same issue you've mentioned. the strap cutter had tapered the end of the belt ever so slightly. The template was flush for the inner hole but around 1/32 wider at hole 6. AND I missed putting the exact center of the punch on the awl mark so that added a little error. It was enough to see. Using the ruler to line them up may work IF the strap is not curved... ie one edge is held flush against something straight. But to guarantee that, you're back to the square, clamps and liquor!. I'm going to make a couple of the plexiglass center finders and see how they work next week. I'll keep you posted. Tom

Can anyone tell me about this machine? Thread size, how thick will it sew, etc? Pros - Cons?? A friend has one and I'm trying to help him figure it out. Thanks Tom

I do something similar with Line 20 snaps. I use my Line 24 setter and tap the top of the post lightly to flair it a little and then use the Line 20 setter to finish it Seems to work for me

Here you go. Be sure to copy and paste the entire URL into your browser. I noticed that it's wrapped onto 2 lines here. http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?productId=17049&catalogId=10001&langId=-1&storeId=11151&storeNum=50692&subdeptNum=50698&classNum=50699 Tom

BUMP I bought this snap setter last week. The handle bent before the post was split/curled. Took it back and and exchanged it., Same thing. Went to West Marine and bought a heavy duty one for $34 with 18 heavy duty snap sets and it works perfectly. Don't waste your time or money at HL. Tom

I guess. If you can call 2 extra 40 mile round trips convenience.

They took them back and exchanged them without a problem. Thanks to all for the advise and help Tom

Spoke to Bob this morning. He said they don't make a smooth or right foot. What they do is take a double toe smooth and cut off the left or right toe to make their own smooth feet. Guess I'm heading back to the local company. Thanks for all the help.

Yup.. Definately 111W155 I'll let you know what happens Tom

Thanks. I'll call the place I bought them from MOnday and talk to the owner. He may be more knowledgable. They have an "All Sale Final" policy, but will do exchanges..... If they led me down the wrong path, I can probably beat them into a refund. Thanks for the help Tom

Well, the place I bought them from said that's the only way these feet came. He said the smooth bottom set was just on the originals that came with the machine. I looked at the parts manula for it and you really can't tell what each set is for... I Google search on the part numbers basically said Inner Presser Foot.. Outer Presser Foot, etc. I did another search here and found a post that I think you made about using liquid dippit stuff. Does it hold up well? Tom

I bought a left and right foot set for this machine and it feeds great. But it was leaving marks on the top of the leather. I lowered both top foot tensions as far as it will go and that seems to help. I was able to use a modelling spoon and some water to get out the few that I was left with. Before I take a grinder to them to at least flatten them out some, i wanted to ask here if anyone else is smoothing them out and the best way, if so. The original feet have no teeth and rely on the bottom feeder to actually bite the leather it seems. Thanks Tom

FIrst, I'm not a big user of NO, but have read a lot on it and am gonna relay the general tips I've read. I usually use Mink Oil Paste on the flesh side. 1) Use Pure NO.. Not the Prime NO Compound. 2) Use a LIGHT coat only.. A few folks I've read sday a single light coat on the flesh side. 3) I just went through a belt I put way too much NO on and the Resolene is flaking off. Remember, you can always add stuff to leather. It's hard to impossible to go back. Tom

That's kinda what I read.... I have made 2 batches now. I added steel wool to the first batch to see if the stuff would eat it. It ate some, but not all. Still smells The second batch has almost digested it all in 3 weeks. Going to add another half pad to make sure it's saturated. But they DO blacken like crazy!!! Later Tom

Case, Tool, then Dye. I use SuperSheen and Resolene. A couple of very light coats. You can even dilute it 50/50 with water to make it thinner. You'll probably get a dozen ideas for coating. I think it's all in what you have tried and prefer. They all seem to work to greater or lesser degrees. Tom

Thanks Mike. I've just recently been experimenting with the Resolene. I've mainly been using Satin Sheen. I did read somewhere here that they diluted the Resolene 50/50 as well and airbrushed it on. Since it has such a strong ammonia smell, I was not sure I wanted that running through my airbrush.... I've got another belt in the works and will lightlen up on the NO and try the diluted Res. with the airbrush... I really like the depth of the color with the Vig. It's not for quick turnaround jobs because the smell takes a week to go away, but it's got USMC black beat all to hell for not rubbing off onto clothes:thumbsup: Tom

My first "real" project using Vinegaroon was not as expected. I'm not sure what I did wrong. This is a belt. I dipped the strap in the vinegaroon for about 3 minute and then took out, wiped down with a rag and then dipped in a soda bath for a while. I rinsed in running water for a bit, wiping it down. I put a light coat of NO on both sides. Let dry in front of a fan overnight and then applied a bunch of coats of NO until it was soft. I let it dry for about 3 days. Then I applied around 3- 4 light coats of Resolene, letting each dry for 15-30 minutes between coats. The resolene is flaking off. I can scratch with my fingernail and it just crumbles off. Fortunately, the lady I gave the belt to is a friend and she knew it was something new I was trying. Anyone have a clue as to where I went wrong? Tom

I'm still experimenting with this stuff off and on till I get it right. I don't get a lot of call for black, so my experiments are sort of spread out... My vig is a couple of months old and has dissolved as much steel wool as it could. I did a belt yesterday and it blackened great.. I used a soda rinse but left it in too long -- about 45 minutes. I then rinsed it really well and oiled it after the rinse. I THOUGHT I had used what I considered to be an ample amount of oil. It looked wet. I hung it up to dry in front of a fan and tonight when I checked it, it was very dry and had a couple of light spots. I added a tone of more oil and and left it to dry again. Have I screwed it up with the soda? How much oil should I be rubbing in? I don't want it leaving oil on a pair of jeans when worn... Thanks Tom

I give up... What does ** bump ** mean? Tom

This is pretty much how I've always doen my casing with pretty good results. The only issue I have is with my piece occasionally drying out too fast. The only difference is that I have been puting the piece in water and waiting until the bubble stop. Then I wipe it down with a towel and bag it in a ziplock overnight. I then let it dry to the "return to normal but cool" state. I'm doing to try some with the technique of letting it almost dry to normal and then bagging it and see what thay does. One question.... I read a tutorial by Paul Burnett on the forums here and he talsk about wetting the top surface but not letting the core get wet, and then stamping immediately. This is for stamping only.. He used the method here for any and all carving. What's the story on that? Any opinions on it? Tom

Hey folks, I've been asked to make an ovalish shaped belt and they want a leather ruffle around the entire piece. Any suggestions? The picture does not look like suede. Not sure what it is, but she swears it's leather. The company she saw the picture is no longer making them and hasn't for a while, it seems. Also, about how much would be a fair price for it? I'm thinking in the $40-$50 range, but since I've never done one of these, I'll a little lost. Thanks Tom

I actually looked at his before I looked at yours and saw the difference in quality just from the photos. That and the fact that you have a website. I do not like to buy on eBay if I can help it. TO ALL: I just received a set of Chris's burnishers today, and I can personally attest to his quality, integrety and over the top customer service. He's A+ in my book. Thanks for a great product Chris. Tom Legacy Leathercraft

I've made 1 watch band but want to learn to do more. I had a real issue with the thickness of the leather going around the pins. The band was 13mm (1/2") and using the thinnest leather I had (around 4 oz) I still had to skive it where it went around the watch pins. Now, that was veg-tan leather. I'm not sure of the differecne in flexibility between it and oiled leather. Tom