TomG

I did a dip the the other night and it was weird.... I could only fit 3/4ths of the strip at a time in my pan, so I dipped until it was black on the first end (about 1-2 minutes) and swapped ends. the second end would only turn gray in the same amount of time. It took about 7 minutes to turn black. I'll try the brush on method tomorrow on my next project. As for the baking soda, I'm doing an extended soak to get rid of the smell.... Water won't cut it. But I haven't tried oiling it after a quick wash either. Later. Tom

I've read everything I can find on this topic but still don't see an answer. After blackening the leather with my Vinegaroon, I soak it in a baking soda soluton for a while, then rinse it well. I rub it with a rag and it seems to come off, blackening the rag. Even after it's dry, I seem to get some rub off. Is this normal? It's not a dye, so am I just getting some of the tannins from the surface on my rag? Thanks Tom

I think Tandy has a free video on their site that shows how to stamp the letters evenly. Tom

Hi all, I've read pretty much all of the posts on making and using the Vig and seems that there are a number of ways and methods to use this stuff. 2 weeks ago, I took some old 00 steel wool pads I've had for years and put in a gallon jug. Poured about 2 qts of new vinegar on top and let it sit, shaking it up every few days. Then, using paper coffee filter, I filtered the almost black liquid to get rid of the fine metal left over. I was left with a very dark liquid. After letting it sit a couple of days it had not cleared so I decided to try it anyway. I dipped a strip of veg-tan into it and within seconds, I had a very black strap. I let it soak for about 10 miutes to make sure it went all of the way though, I took it out and dipped it into a solution of 4 tablespoons of baking soda in about a quart and a half of water (half full 2 liter soda bottle). I didn't see any bubbles. After about 10 minutes, I took it out and washed it thoroughly. It smelled like dead fish. I let it dry overnight and it still smelled bad. I put it back in the soda and got some bubbles. Let it sit for about an hour and then washed it again. Now is smells like wet leather. My Vig still smelled a little like vinegar. So I added another steel wool pad. Within an hour, the almost black solution was clear and has a mass of steel wool floating near the top. I'll let it sit and see how it does over the next few days. So - Long story and here are the questions: 1) Should the Vig always smell like vinegar and steel? 2) How long should the soda dip be done? 3) Should there be a smell after dipping? Thanks Tom

I'll write the owner and see if she will send me the info. She's kind of drop off line for some reason. Thanks Tom

Capsterdog posted a .PDF file he got from Tandy with all of their big stamsp from the past to present. I have comverted it to . Excel spreadsheet so you can add to it and mark up your own inventory. Thanks to Capsterdog for getting it. Tom NOTE: Be sure to rename the file and change the extension to .XLS as the system doesn't seem to want to let me post an XLS spreadsheet. Tandy Stamp List-RENAME EXTENSION TO XLS.TXT

Capsterdog recent;ly posted a .PDF file with a list of all the Tandy stamps - past and present. Thanks. I have converted it to an Excel spreadsheet so you can track which ones you own. Enjoy. Tom

Thanks I think I just need to find her someone she can send it to for repair. I don't mind taking on a learning project, but I think this might be too much to cut my teeth on But I'll keep reading and learning Thanks Tom

I won't get a chance to get out there for pictures for a while, unfortunately. She did send me a message and said she thinks it's a Flex tree... Anyone ever heard of that? She was not sure of the make or maker of the saddle. Tom

Here's the link. It's under Chapter 9 http://www.tpub.com/content/aviation/14218/index.htm Tom

Yeah.. Sure... Replace the J-Hook myself. Uh Huh.. Actually, I could probably do it. I've aligned the hook on our 12-needle embroidery machine.. And I have the service and parts manual for the W155. And I am very mechanically adept. The question was "Do I want to"??? Hell no.... the hook is $80. Another $20 for the tension and foot stuff. It's actually worth the $$$ in labor to not have to screw with it,. I decided to go ahead and have them do it. I got to thinking and recalled that every time I go to sew up the back of a folding chair we've emboidered, I have to sew a bunch of test stitches to get the slop out of the bobbin side, and that is never a guarantee.... Screw it... I'm tired of messing with it. If they do it right, I'm good to go on several fronts.. If they don't, they are local and I can go and become a pest Thanks for all of the advise. I'll try the different needle/thread combo when I get it back. Tom

I would never sell something broken or in need of repair without full disclosure.... I just hate to keep pouring money into this machine. The place I took it to has a good rep and does lots of industrial business. But they are tell my it won't sew 138 or higher reliably. Folks here say it will. I put some 138 in and it seemed to do OK but has the random bunching and jamming on the bobbin side...same as the 69 thread... so a bad J-Hook makes sense.... Oh.. A J-hook is the device with the point that the bobbin fits into and slings the thread around to make your stitch.... Let's see. I spent $50 on a "tech" to come by the house and "fix" it for this problem a few months ago. Stopped sewing right the next day. Can't get hold of him now.. Surprise.... Just put a servo motor on it to slow it down.... That part is good. So now I have to put another $275 into it for this repair.... With what I paid for it and will have spent, I could have ALMOST bought a new Consew or something else...... I'm just frustrated, I guess. We do not have enough business right now to justify a whole lot of expense for this machine... But I guess I'll have to bite the bullet and do it.... End of Venting...! Tom

I put the 155 in the shop for a check, as the bobbin tension had a problem. They are telling me that it needs a couple fo tension springs and a new J-hook. Not sure if I want to inveast that much into it or save up for a Consew 206 or something like it. I need something that will do heavy fabric AND leather. Is the Consew 205 or 206 better and what wo9uld be a fair price on a used one? Thanks Tom

Hi Steve. I was inquirubg as to the needle size (20, 22, etc) and the size thread you can use with the 155... 69, 138, etc. Tom

Kevin, What size needles and threads do you use? What's the largest thead you've sewn with? Tom

Thanks Jeff, I haven't seen it yet, so I have no idea of the overall condition. I agree with the teardown.... I wouldn't even attempt this unless I took it apart so I could take pictures during each step. I'll keep you posted if I proceed with it. Tom

Thanks. Mauifarrier had already steered me to your site and I spent an hour or so reading your info packed pages. I appreciate the efforts this takes, I had no ideait was so involved. I have done some woodworking in the past, so I can appreciate the difficulty and attention to detail it requires. IF she really wants me to do this and IF I decide to make the attempt, I'll definately be giving you a call. Tom

I assume that whichever way I went, I'd strip off all the leather prior to sending it in and then reinstall it when it comes back? Oh.. Meant to ask. I was looking online and saw saddle referred to as 15", 16" etc, What are they measuring? One of the 16" said it fit 90% of the horses in the USA...??? True??? I would think you'd have to measure a horse and pick something that fit it's back... BUT, I'm still learning, so what do I know

Thanks. I'll check them out.

I have never done a saddle repair, but have wanted to see what is involved. My nephew's girlfirend lives on a farm and has one that she says has a broken tree. What is involved in repair of the tree or does it need to be replaced? I assume "replaced" but just don't know. If it needs to be replaced where can I read up on what is involved or find a tutorial. I've looked through most of the posts and realize that the first thing I need to do is learn some terminology. Back to scanning and reading <g> Thanks in advance. Tom

I use a dauber or a foam brush to apply it liberally, and then use a plastic slicker to rub it in. I would imagine any hard. smooth, flat item would work. Hmmm.. We also make vinyl signs... I wonder how one of our sign squeegees would work. They are pretty rigid and may do the job. And they are cheap... Under a buck and last forever - unless you nick them. I'll try it as soon as I get a chance. Tom

I make a lot of dog collars and ladies bracelets. I genrally use Mink Oil paste, but have used GT. Tom

My splitter (that I picked up used) tends to cut straps in half and at an angle if I try to split a long strap. I am assuming that the roller adjustment is off. Is there a procedure for adjusting the 2 screws on either side of the roller and the blade,, etcx? Thanks Tom

Is it possible to braid 4 strands using trhe mystery braid technique? If so, can you point me to a tutorial on it? I found the 3 strand and a 5 strand tutorial, but not a 4. Tom

Thanks. On this particular band, the stamping is so close to the edge, a stitch groover would cut too much of the design, which the lady didn't want. I remade the entire thing and used contact cement to secure everything. Then burnished the edges together and so on. I do have a couple smaller machines in the garage. I' need to dig them out and see if any of them are capable of doing this weight leather. Later. Tom