Colt Hammerless

Bumping this up, as I'm going to make a holster with ostrich for the first time soon, and am interested in knowing as well. Paul

Fortunately he won't need to do much running. With zombies, a fast walk should suffice. Now, did you do the good salesman thing, and suggest a bandolier for all of the shells he'll need? Paul

Would a 2 1/2 work? http://www.aimeimports.com/Items/ItemDetail.aspx?ItemID=108021NP

That is a wonderful brown Frank! I have a couple of swatches of the different drum dyed leathers from W&C. I neatsfoot oiled it to see how it looked, but it didn't come out that dark, more of a light brown. This was a swatch from last year. I picked up another swatch a month ago, and it does seem a bit darker now. Curious as to what you're doing to darken it. Neatsfoot oil, or something else, maybe a combination? I bought a Chestnut belly from them in order to have some scrap leather for patterning, as well as to check out that color. Probably should have gotten a brown one too. Paul

I'd like to get one as well. Hopefully your guy is interested in making more.

Triage, what water are you using to wet mold with? I've had a similar problem with dark spots from wet molding, and think I've narrowed it down to the mineralization in my tap water. I've been using distilled water for a while. I haven't made too many light colored holsters since switching, but have made a few, and the problem seems to have gone away. I was having this problem with both HO and W&C. Paul

Dip dying is faster and generally less likely to have streaks in it than doing it with say sheeps wool or a sponge brush, etc. It also allows good penetration of the leather, compared to using an airbrush. Dye won't crack or flake off as it doesn't sit on top of the leather, like paint would. It pentetrates into the fibers of the leather. Although there will be some pigment that doesn't penetrate and will need to be buffed off of the surface. As to your last question, the dye is not a finish. It's simply a coloring agent that goes into the leather fibers. Finish is a seperate product that will seal the leather and give it some shine. It both penetrates the leather (somewhat) and stays on the surface creating a barrier against the dye rubbing off, as well as having sweat and dirt stain the leather. The finish I used on this is called Angelus 600, which is an acrylic. There's a similar product from Fiebing's called Resolene. Paul

Great work Tony! Some criminals have fantastic taste. What's the little American flag? Is that one of those Made in U.S.A. tags from W&C? Paul

Backroadexplorer, I actually leave the muzzle open. The leather at the bottom is folded over the muzzle, but there's a bit of an opening left for dirt, moisture, fuzzies, etc. to fall out. Don't think I have a pic, and these holsters belong to other people now. I likely do have a pick of how I fold over the muzzle end on other holsters, and will try to find one. Great talking with you to Tony! It's always nice to see you at the show. Did you meet any other leatherworker.net members there? Dickf, I've made more holsters for the 1903 than any other gun, so I've been able to dial in the stitch lines pretty well. I do pretty well on 1911s too, but I need to loosen it up a bit. The latest one I made for a 1911, I had to use a rubber mallet to pound it in, and get it out. Looks nice, but is unnecessary for it to be that tight in my opinion. Paul

Backroadexplorer, I've yet to use any type of vacuum for forming, but would like too in the future. It looks like the food saver works pretty well. Dickf, It is super jacked up! I don't know why they make it so wide near the grip. Makes getting the stitch line right a guessing game. Paul

Have fun at the Wickenburg show. I just went yesterday and had a good time. Paul

Good point camano ridge! Definitely C&L if they'll do it. I have a Springfield EMP dummy from them (bought it second hand) and it's not locked. I"ve yet to make anything with it as I haven't modified it yet. Talon, are you buying ONLY six, or is that simply the minimum? Would you be able to get more in the same order if there's enough interest? Paul

Here's an IWB I made a few months back. It's 8oz. W&C Russet skirting dyed with Fiebing's Pro Oil Dark Brown. Finish is Angelus 600 cut 50/50 with water and airbrushed on (several light coats.) Paul And here's it's twin. This one turned out slightly darker brown.

Wow Brian! A wet molded revolver holster right out of the gate. That was not easy. Good work. The color looks very nice and even as well. I do own a 1903, and made an IWB for it as my first ever leather project. I've made a number of OWB and IWB holsters for it since then. I'll actually be writing a thread about a few of them tomorrow (it's late and I need to sleep), so be sure to check it out. If you have any questions just ask. Oh, and I see this is your first post. Welcome! Paul

I'd be interested. Are they Duncan's regular price? And yes, which model? Paul

Chef, I don't really have any good pictures of the back. Here's the nicest one I could find. I don't have any pics of it being worn, sorry. Paul

Thanks everyone. I'm pretty new to dip dyeing, but it seems to be working pretty well. I've been using Hidepounder's method on edges for a while and it works great. Now I just need to be able to do them faster. Paul

You get a new and better one. I recently finished this one up for my friend. It's a lefty IWB for the H&K P2000sk. It's got 30 degrees of forward rake per his request (I use a lot of rake on my own personal rigs as well.) It's 8 oz. Hermann Oak that was given a long dip dye in full strength Angelus Cordovan. It's very red in the sun, and a nice dark color under indoor lighting. Finish is two good dips in Angelus 600 cut 50/50 with distilled water. This holster is a replacement for one I made him a couple of years ago. He can't find the other one as it's buried in a box in his garage somewhere! He has a better chance of finding the Ark of the Covenant in there. It's all well and good, as that one was one of my earliest pieces, and wasn't all that great. Paul

That's fantastic! I love that color too. "I'd rather be lucky than good." This is what happens when you're both. That color is a genuine Bob Ross "Happy Accident."

Renegadelizard, I've always placed the rear belt slot right below the end of the grip as that seemed to be where many makers put them. It snugs up nicely. I'm going to build myself a dual IWB/OWB for my 1911 (haven't built anything for ME in quite some time,) and you now have me thinking of bringing the rear slot/belt clip in a bit closer to the gun to try out. Thanks! The elephant came from one of those scrap bags that Springfield had about a year ago. I bought two of them, and got a darn good amount of useable material out of it. Even though I'm just now getting around to playing with it, I wish I had bought more. Mattsh, They are nice and small that's for sure. Have you made any leather for yours? Pics? Paul

Thanks Tony!

Have not been sharing much lately, so here's one. Just finished my first exotic holster. It's an OWB for the Colt 1903 with elephant skin coverage. It's 8 oz. Wickett and Craig russet saddle skirting dyed with Fiebing's Pro Oil Mahogany. I think the color of the elephant is what's called "Nicotine." It's mostly black with a subdued rusty color in the nooks and crannies. Finish is a couple of good dips in 50/50 Angelus 600. Let me know what you think! Paul

Here you go: http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=22992&st=0&p=147075&fromsearch=1entry147075 Paul

Very nice Haystacker! Love the color too. Do you use any of RJF's Walnut, or Havana skirting? Paul

Good to hear. If you or I didn't show up, Matt would have nobody to talk to. I'll see you there. Paul