curlyjo

Nice job Buck.

I'll bet your dogs really like you after that! You're their Hero.

That's real nice, I especially like smooth finish on the ends of the nosebutton. Brad

KnotHead, Go for it. With your ability to complete the work and assist others, you would be a great asset to that Association. You're extremely helpful with shared info and everyone knows that doesn't happen all the time. Brad

That's real pretty! And I've used the u2 o3 pattern when I've braided Hondas and my strings were just a little to small for 4 into 8 so I just did 5 flat into 10. Brad

Those look very nice. Brad

Beautiful work leatherpownder. Brad

Nice job, Buck

I use a coffee can of lime in a third of a barrel of water. Keep checking it and stirring it up and check to see when the hair starts to slip. Take it out when it starts to slip and scrape the hair off. Throw it over a fence and hose off both sides and back in barrel with clean water and 1 gallon of vinegar. Let soak overnite and then stretch in your frame. That's what works for me. Hot days it's going to be faster so you've got to watch. I've soaked them for 2 weeks in cold weather and less then 4 days in hot. Brad

I just started using a tiny bit of dish soap with water in a plastic cup and and paint brush to swish it around, lather it up, and slather it on as I'm braiding, especially above and it helps cinch the crosses in tight. I'm talking rawhide here. As far as kidney fat goes, stay with white as possible. It does make a difference on what the critter was eating prior to his demise. Years ago I worked for an outfit that was feeding carrots to older cows and they sold the meat to a chain that covered the Roast Beef with lots of gravy so you couldn't see the color. Brad

I get all my hides from Hardtke in El Paso, Tx. and they've been the best price for drum stuffed Packer hides. Had 1 problem, sent a note to Hardtke and got a call dirrectly from Graham Packer from Australia. Talked with him for quite a while and sent the hide back to Aus. and he sent me a new hide without waiting for the first to arrive there. When he got the hide and checked it he said it was something to do with the pickling process on that particular hide. Outstanding service from the other side of the world. I've never personally had to grease or lube any strings, just cut them at 5-6/32, stretch with my hands, split down to 2/32 for button string or leave alone for Bosal braiding, size, bevel and go to work. Brad

Bryce, I just finished a 12 strand Hackamore over a piece of 5/16ths round leather belting. 9/16ths diameter with kangaroo buttons. It feels really good, soft, firm but the rawhide helps it keep it's shape. I'm working on a 1/2" over a 1/4" belting core. Also 12 strand. I'll put some pics in here when my wife gets home this evening. I really like the feel and will be using this as core material for rawhide bodies in the future. It is probably to soft for Latigo Bosals so I'll just keep using Riata pieces for those. I got mine on Ebay in 6 foot pieces to try and now have a good idea what works. Brad

Very nice work and glad to see the recognition.

Very beautiful work.

In response to type of needle used, I've been using the split needle for my Heelknots. I can get under 2/ over 2 pattern down without to much awl work but need awl to raise it up to u3/o3. This is with Roo string usually 1/32x just under 4/32. By split needle I mean the one that you open in the back end and it clamps together after you put in the string. I slice off any piece that sticks out at the start so it does'nt drag. Brad

TXAG, it was just a suggestion for a place to try. Nobodies forcing you to rent it or use those services. I was just responding to Serenitynow . Brad

Great job, Buck, definitly keepers. Brad

Bryan Neubert has 2 DVD's. The one you mentioned and a more advanced one that deals with a lot of button work. You can rent them on giddyupflix.com and see if they will work for you. At least that's what the website says. I've never used their services but read about them on here. Brad

I use rawhide to put under finished buttons, either a foundation or full ring button with the standing end tucked through the braided body. When the rawhide dries, it sucks down tight and the buried string keeps it from moving. Between ring buttons on a nosebutton, I wrap with a 3/8ths or so piece of leather, glued down the whole length and then cover with brown electrical tape. I split the leather first so it's even and it's a good use of some poor quality long scrap that you always find in the bottom of your pile. It firms up the nosebutton and helps it hold its shape. Or just work a piece of leather or rawhide in and out around the braided piece through the braids where the finished button goes. Hope this helps. Brad

Excellent reply, Buck. Have a great and Merry Christmas. Brad

One more. Chase it around with a heavy rolling pin. That will smooth up the sides of a Bosal body after it's all complete and pulled together, mainly leather. Just make sure, as in fingernail cutters to cut string, you buy your own rolling pin and not get caught with the one your wife uses at home! Brad

To dress up a knot, I use a rawhide mallet and hit it and turn at the same time. Then sweep the floor and roll under the ball of my foot. For Bosal bodies get an old clothes wringer or buy the ones they sell for the car wash guys to wring out the wiping rags between cars. Shove the Bosal body in and crank all the way to the end and twist and crank back. Back and forth to seat all the V's. Then roll under your foot. Years ago I had access to an old electric wringer. That worked really slick. Just be careful to make sure the old rollers are clean, they can stain the rawhide or leather. How's that, Buck, Merry Christmas to all, Brad

That's a good design, Buck. Brad

The picture in the Grant book shows where to go on the start of the 3rd step, 2 up from the standing end. I just turn the knot 180 degrees and find that spot on the other side. Brad

The easiest way to figure those buttons is to use a different colored string with each pass, meaning dark for u1/o1 then light for building u2/o2, then dark again for the u3/o3 pattern. Or use dark all the way through the u2/o2 pass and then switch to light. Once you get started, the proper pattern to split will show up real easy. That's how I pattern my Interweave on my Heelknots. I just increase the o1/u1 sequence until I can fill in with the same color to complete the o2/u2 work. Then I flip it over and use a different color to finish the o3/u3 work. That puts a nice set of stripes and the # depends on how much you built up the original button. I hope this helps, Brad PS by flipping it over I mean going to the opposite side so you don't end up with 4 ends to bury at the same point.