albane

WOW....What was it going to be?

This is how I handle R & D jobs. First I qualify the perspective client. who are they? Can they afford this level of service? Do they have any experience? If I feel that the client is a qualified perspective customer then we talk money. The Charges brake down like this: I work it like my attorney does, on retainer After a simple consultation usually free of charge. i will disclose billing and charges. and what they can expect to pay for different levels of service. If this topic scares them then I know it's time to end the meeting and get back to my life. Here goes: R&d $250.00/ hr + materials & custom tools This includes all the development time, pattern making, information gathering, along with a time and motion survey, primary and backup vender's list with parts numbers and samples. This all becomes the clients intellectual property. I'm hired to invent they own the invention. Production time $60.00/ hr / per person + materials & Custom tools The client is free to select any production steps to use at my facility or they can utilize a vender of there choice. The R&d fee may seem high but I simply put it like this. I prorate to the minute and they are free to audit time. they have access to 30 years of data and experience. I find most people have good ideas without an understanding of what it takes to see a project through to market. If it cost a customer $100.00 to learn they are over there head then they got off cheap and can focus on finding a new idea to work on. Sometimes it's not the jobs you get but the jobs you avoid. I hope this helps

I found a pant lace up section pic.

Well here I go with my First "Show off" post. This is a Piece of wardrobe for a guitar player named (you guessed it ) Roy Z. He plays in a couple hard rock bands. This piece has a matching pair of pants to go with it. Because this is intended to be on stage before a large audience 10,000 or more the design elements are fairly exaggerated. I started with a side of Black lushes garment cow hide that i picked up from Sav-mor leather in Los Angeles Ca. The Red is a Split cow From The Tandy leather factory In North Hollywood. The Roy Z logo Is A composite of filigree Black on red with the "R" being relived with a small cut out with black behind the red. I stitched the outline with 2 rows of 138 nylon thread at 1/8" apart with approx. 8 stitches per inch. The side panels will have a red strip from the under arm to the hem with # 0 grommets for the "rock and roll " lace up the side providing a contrast with black lace over the red. The pants have the same design element on the side seam from the waist to the hem on both legs. the arm holes along with the neck line will be trimmed with some studs that will be determined on tues. after a fitting with Roy. I will offer some 3/4" pyramid spots in nickel finish from standard rivet As this is a work in progress I will attempt to get a pic of the finished costume after the fitting on Tuesday. I hope you like it....

Try these guys the can do 12" pieces http://www.mcpcustomleather.com/

BUILDEROFSTUFF, Dig the handle.....(makes me want to say it with my THOR voice) lol If you tool up and make some of your lace tools put me down for 2 Thanks,

Joker, Here is a pic of the pain causing grip. Note to self: LEARN TO RESIZE PICS SO THEY WORK IN THIS FORUM!!!!!

Joker, I feel your pain. I had the same problem. I found it came from gripping my tools and allowing my thumb to bend backwards. It is easy to fix but you have to change the way you grip. Here are a couple pics so you can see. one using the tip of my thumb to hold the tool with the joint bent in a natural position. At first this grip will feel strange but you thumb will thank you. the other pic is clearly bent backward. holding the tool with my finger print. Instinctively this feels correct put that's how I hurt my thumb. I catch myself reverting to the "wrong grip" all the time. On days when I am planing a lot of punching larger tools I will use athletic tape to stabilize the joint and minimize the range of motion. (a trick I learned in sports med class.). Good luck and get well soon, looks like it will only let me post one pick so I'll post the second pic in another reply

Toby, This topic has been addressed here before. With some luck one should be able to find the info you seek. My answer is a simple one but I'm assuming the reader has compensated for drag and properly adjusted the pressure foot tension on there machine. The sewing industry wide solution to the stretch problem you are describing would be to use a fusible interfacing in your seam.Pellon makes a top quality product. the draw back is the labor effort associated in applying the Pellon to your seam. the processes requires an iron resulting in a heat activated bond. there are times you may not want the Pellon to remain after the seam is sewn and you will find yourself removing it moments after installing it. I have a simple and inexpensive substitute 1/4" masking tape . simply tape your seam, stitch, peal off the tape. no one is the wiser. http://www.pellonideas.com/

800/782-3278 T-Nuts / Propell Nuts Stafast T-Nuts are an economical method of fastening a metal mechanism to a component that is made of wood, plastic, particleboard, or pressboard, or for anchoring wooden components to each other. T-Nuts consist of a flat flange with a cylindrical barrel which is threaded to allow a bolt to engage the T-Nut. Prongs often extend from the flange to grip the material into which the T-Nut is being inserted. Thread Sizes: 4-40 to 5/8-11 Metric: Available Barrel Heights: 1/8" to 7/8" Closed End T-Nuts Provide maximum thread engagement and positive bolt stop. Prongs provide higher retention and reduce push out. Large flange prevents pull throughLocking T-Nuts provide an economical alternative to patch lock in blind applications. Entry torque is typically 8-12 in-lbs, custom torque requirements are available. Available in hand driven or production maximizing hopper feed styles.3 Prong T-Nuts are used primarily in hard materials to minimize splitting caused by prongs. Also see Propell Nuts if splitting is a problem.4 Prong T-Nuts can be used in hard and soft woods. Also available in Hopper Feed Style for labor-saving automation.6 Prong T-Nuts can be used primarily in soft woods, particleboard, plywood and softer plastics. Good retention.Stafast's Hopper Feed T-Nuts offer high retention and reliable entry which reduces labor and rework costs. These T-Nuts can be automatically machine inserted straight, flush, and ready for production assembly.Also see "Ultimate" T-Nut T-Nut Automation Equipment Stainless Steel T-Nuts Standard hand driven T-nuts or Hopper Feed T-Nuts are offered in 304 Stainless Steel for marine or corrosion resistant applications. Stainless Steel T-Nuts are excellent for fastening metal to wood or plastic, or for anchoring wooden components together. Propell Nuts - Steel and Stainless Steel The deep skives provide excellent retention for blind and end-grain applications such as glides, levelers, wood turnings, or hard material applications that may split with regular prong type T-Nuts. Also popular in hard plastic applications. Thread Sizes: 8-32 to 5/8-11 Metric: Available Barrel Heights: 1/4" to 7/8"

one word...... AWESOME!!!

I would ask Travis at the North Hollywood Tandy leather his number is 818 787 9913 I would ask Travis at the North Hollywood Tandy leather his number is 818 787 9913

My suggestion DON'T SELL YOURSELF CHEEP!!! best of luck,

I purchased a couple of these at The Hide House. At first they seemed like a waste of space in my tool box but after using it for a while It now lives on my work bench. Enough said

http://viewmorepics.myspace.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=user.viewPicture&friendID=259407886&albumId=1642157 This is a link to some photos of some of my sewing machines. For the type of leather work the op is talking about the pfaff 1245 is by far the best machine ever produced. Consew provide a useful set of instruments considering they cost less than half what the pfaff rigs do the consew 227 cylinder arm and post machines will prove themselves vary useful for repairs and alterations. thread selection: depends on your desired result. strength or look? strength is subject to interpretation and production constraints technically speaking one would match thread with the burst strength in the textile surrounding the seam. under load the thread and the leather would fail at the exact moment the leather rips the thread is to heavy. the thread breaks the thread is to small. this is an important consideration when producing safety equipment ( life support) the look is another thing to conciser. most biker folk tend to like a bolder look so when garment making I prefer 138 bonded nylon . with the high fashion designers making there way in to the leather community they have a different "vision" that appeals to them. so in that case they may want a finer seam so 69 or 46 bonded nylon is in order. the choice is up to them. I try to provide the client with sewn samples and inform them of the pros and cons so they can make an informed decision. the place where I hold firm is on stitch length between 4 and 6 per inch no compromise. without a signed release of liability. the last thing with thread is color match or contrast? I like to match but some people like contrast. contrast requires a finer operator so ..... a new can of worms. good luck Respectfully yours,

Mr Burnett, Thank you for sharing;