SimonJester753

I tried Conchos.com, but not Ohio Travel bag. I'll take a look, thanks.

Generally, when I do things like paint, even with oil paint, I don't use gloves. Usually, I find a heavy application of hand cream or soaping up my hands and letting it dry will make clean up easier. I did a test strip on some edges using Feibing's Oil Dye and failed to protect my hands. I now have 2 brown fingertips. Any advice on how to remove the dye without removing my skin? I tried hydrogen peroxide and it did nothing. I already bought nitrile gloves at the drug store, to complete the project.

I'm looking for copper, (plated), buckles suitable for dog collars. I have lots of copper conchos. I've even found copper "D" rings, but the buckles I've found are not strong utility buckles, but "fashion" items. I've got nickel plated brass and plain brass. I've seen some harness harware referred to as "Italian Bronze", but the only size buckle was 3/4" and I want 1". Anyone have a source?

The more I looked at it and thought about it, the more I thought I'd have to stitch the corners and the less comfortable I became with the project. I've never stitched leather. The only sewing I've done in recent years is the occasional button. The friend whose chair it is and I were in a town with a lot of antique shops. There was a store that did upholstery. We stopped in to as advice. The guy gave me a handful of tacks and some advice. We went home and skillfully avoided the task. I turned to my friend and said "let's bring it to the upholstery guy." She agreed. I've always said that one of my strong point when it comes to DIY stuff is to know when I'm in over my head and back off. Here is the results:

I walked past the store today. It was no longer in the window, but it may still be in the store. I was holding off till I payed off a credit card before buying more "toys."

Here are 2 other pictures. It's strange how the pictures come out sideways or upside down here, when I view them in Photoshop, they're fine. If I open them in a browser, they're not. So I rotated them 180 deg then saved then rotated them back, then saved again. I guess it's because I'm left handed and my iPhone has some kind of image compensation where it knows which way is up and it can pass the info to Photoshop, but browsers don't read it.

Well, here are some pictures. We hit a snag. The leather is probably a bit thicker than what would be ideal. I don't know if you can see how thick it is in the photo. We can't just stretch it over the seat as it will bunch up in the corners. We can't figure out how to do the corners. It seems to need some sort of gusset or something. The one corner that is inset around the back rest is especially daunting, though that one will be snugged up against the back rest went it's done, so it may not matter as much as the front 2 corners. I'm thinking we may need to stitch the corners. Probably do it flesh side out, then turn it inside out when we go to tack it down. Anyone with a diagram or pattern for something like this?

That's an interesting idea. We only have the one chair and the leather is big enough, but there's not enough for another chair, so it's not like we need to conserve.

I think they were asking $130. I'll check it out and see if it's sturdy or wobbly.

It's odd. When I open it in Photoshop or view it in an email it's right side up.

Here's a picture of what they call a "saddle stand", which looks like a stitching pony. It's missing a few pieces. How much is it worth? I'm figuring I have the skills and the plans to build one from scratch, but this is most of the way done. It just needs some hardware and a strap.

No, it's just the seat cushion. It's basically square with one corner notched. Here's a picture of the seat covered in cloth.

I have these instructions: http://www.ehow.com/how_6768122_recover-chair-cushions-leather.html One difference is this is a telephone table and one of the corners of the seat is notched for the outside support on the back rest. I'm wondering about how to go about dealing with the notched corner.

I wonder how much metal key is in the plastic handle. If I cut it off and it turns out there's just the shaft with no metal, I'm out of luck. I may have found another solution– a smartphone case with room for credit cards and some cash. My biggest concern is my keys rubbing against my phone. Still, it would be nice to have the keys in a case. I think I'll head over to the Subaru forum and see what they know about the keys. Thanks.

My new car comes with those fat plastic-handled keys and a remote. I'd like to find a key case that can hold them and my house keys. If anyone is making them or has a pattern for one, let me know.

I forgot to mention that I did not go with the copper rivets, I used rapid rivets because I could not get the copper rivets to look good enough on the peened side and I didn't want to put the peened side on the inside. The only place I didn't use the rapid rivets is on the top piece where the leash attachment "D" ring is. I might rebuild the bottom section. I'm also planning a lighter harness based on the design in this picture. I'm going to add a handle to the top so I can assist my dog in descending stairs and boost him into the car, (he has one elbow that was broken before the shelter picked him up). Would 3/4" straps be too skinny for a dog just under 60 lbs?

It's been a while, but it's done, for now. I rebuilt the top section 3 times. The only place the rapid rivets were a problem was in the top section where the D-ring for the leash attachment is. They started coming apart, so when I rebuilt it I used Chicago screws. I may rebuild the bottom section. Right now the lower part of the girth and the bottom strap all join to a metal ring. This allows the straps to rotate around the ring and I think it allows slack that causes the harness to sag a bit. But it works and I get compliments on it. Here's a link to some pictures of it on my dog Casper: http://tinyurl.com/4mgucyn

I sent samples of some rivets with burs through some leather to a company that makes aircraft tools. Their squeezers can work on steel rivets, so I'm hoping copper will work. I have to call them to see if they've tested it yet. I think the model you show is for rapid rivets. I'm not sure how heavy duty it is.

I worked in printing. People would come in the shop and ask how I could work with the smell. I'd say, "what smell?" I had to give up wearing contact lenses because the solvents would absorb into them and irritate my eyes. My sense of smell is returning.

What's the difference, in terms of why you'd use one or the other? I'm a beginner and got mink oil because the online tutorial I was following to make dog collars said to use mink oil. But I like to know why I'm doing something, not "just because the instructions say so." I'm into bicycling, and some people use Brook's leather saddles, and they usually use Neat's Foot Oil. Is one better in general, or is one better for some things while the other is better for different things?

Thanks. When I click on the link it says "Address not found." Just tried it again and it downloaded. Thanks!

I've seen dog leashes with braids like this. At first I thought it was a so called "trick braid", but the instructions for the trick braids I've seen involve making 2 slits in the strap so you end up with 3 strands and this seems to have just one slit down the middle. Anyone know of any instructions online for this, either video or diagrams and written instructions?

I've been looking on the internet. Some say glycerin soap and water. Others say saddle soap is BAD for leather. They also say use oil, while others say oil is bad. So what do you clean leather with? How do you treat leather that will be out in the weather?

I made my dog some collars and a harness from latigo leather. What should I use to clean it, saddle soap? I've treated the leather with mink oil and Aussie conditioner, then rubbed it with beeswax.