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John, The thickness of the marble you have is adequate for just about anything to do with leatherwork. The main thing you must do is ensure the slab is sitting on a smooth level surface so that you don't get any movement. With a small size slab ( 9 X 12 ) I would make a false top on my workbench to make it level with the slab. This will help you when you are carving a large project. I got my slab of marble (18 X 18 X 2) from a stone mason who made head stones. They quite often have off cuts. I used to tell people that the underside had all the details carved on it except for the date. But then I have a weird sense of humour. regards, TapTapTap

Thanks for the comments folks. I don't know if age has anything to do with it BUT I forgot to add the details about the bag. The handbag pattern is from a Japanese Leathercraft Pattern book I purchased in 1982. All the instructions are in Japanese so I used my experience to work out the size of the gusset. The bag is carved from 2.5mm leather from Brazil and is lined with dark brown pigskin split. The edge braiding took 22 metres of 3mm kangaroo thong. I used the "double cordovan" braid. The dimensions of the bag are width = 15 inches at widest point, Height = 12 inches to top of handles and width of gusset = 2.5 inches. regards from TapTaptap

Hi there Whit30, I have a copy of "Design Artistry" (large sheets in a portfolio) and the book "Leather Secrets" published in 1976. I quite often go to them for a corner pattern or other unusual design. I would like to see your work using these patterns. Unfortunately, I did not photograph my work in the early days. Regards, Tap Tap tap

Hi there mate, Welcome to the best place on the Net to find answers to your leatherwork queries. Did you find the information you required for the project? If not, share it with us. Regards, TapTapTap

Vikefan, I think you solved your own problem. In my experience with hand stitching the idea is to have the groove deep enough so that the thread is at least level with the surface of the leather. This is to stop wear and tear on the thread. The other advantage I have found with using a stitching groover is the neatness of the finished item when you run the 'overstitch' tool along the finished stitches. Regards, TapTapTap

You struck the jackpot with this one spinner. Four pages and still growing. You need to make sure that it does not take over your life and put your leatherwork on hold. I used one on my dremel a few years ago but it was too fast and burnt the leather so I gave it a miss. When my father was alive some twenty years ago he made one from the motor on a Singer Sewing Machine complete with foot pedal which gave him "hands free" operation. I've been on the lookout for one ever since but with no luck. It probably means buying a new dremel with a slow speed. Can anyone advise me on the best model Dremel. Regards

Thanks for setting me straight BearG. If you had called it a "Dilly Bag" I would have known immediately what you meant. It's funny how some parts of the world have different names for the same thing. The leather appears to be suede but it is hard to tell for sure from the image. I have a copy of a the Tandy Leather Black Powder Book by Gene Noland (probably out of print by now) which describes how to make "Hunting Bags" using suede splits. They are a smaller version of your bag and the edges are sewn together not braided. I will check out the website you mentioned as i am always looking for new projects to tackle. Regards, BJ

Hi there BearG, how did you come up with the idea of a combination carry bag/quiver? The reason I ask is that as well as being a leatherworker I am an Archer also. I must be as thick as a plank because I don't know what you mean by "possibles Bag" in the title of this Post. The concept of a quiver attached to a backpack has some merit if you spend a lot of time in the bush however most archers I know use a number of small packs attached to a belt. I would be interested to know how successful your project was in a practical sense. Did you choose the material for the project? As you become more experienced in working with leather you will learn the limitations of the various types of leather. Keep at it, BearG - practice makes perfect. Regards, BJ

Greg, keep thinking positive thoughts. I have Parkinson's but I will not let it stop me from enjoying my hobby of making things out of leather. (over 14 pills a day ). Of course, if I have a lot of backgrounding to do I don't take all the pills, just steer the stamp in the right direction. The cost of postage from Australia to the USA is excessive so I cannot help you with material things. What i can do is direct you to the Tandy Leather Blog where you will find 22 instructional videos (FREE). You have to view them online - cannot download them which is fair enough i suppose. Glad to see another leatherworker interested in archery. I finished another hip quiver just before I came online to check the forums. I shoot a Bowtech Compound Target bow. Check my profile and gallery and if you want somebody to talk to feel free and contact me. Kind regards, BJ

What can i say Peter? Incredible attention to detail but then your work in the Sydney RAS during the 80's was also spectacular. By the way, I am off the Birdsall's next week to pick up a copy of your book - Australian Leather Carving. Regards,

I have been a leatherworker for over 50 years and have only just got around to keeping a record of what I have made. This is a tip for new starters in Leatherwork (or any other hobby for that matter). The advantages of having something like this is that you can see your progress over the years, It can be used to show samples of your work and it is a "Brag Book" for when you meet other leatherworkers. I purchased a 300 pocket photo album, covered it with pigskin suede and saddle stitched one of the Tandy carved leather catalogue covers on the front. To make it look flash I fixed gilt corners to it. Regards, TapTapTap