lazybum

I get that too, and am interested in knowing if that is normal. I suspect there is too much steel and tool little vinegar, causing the unreacted steel bits suspended in the vinegaroon on the surface to rust and form the brown film on top.

Thanks for the reply. Maybe ill pick up both the next time haha. Just checking is it very important for the hole to be as perfect a circle as possible for the lace maker to do its job well?

Thanks for the reply Mike! Ok at least now I know that the problem lies with the tool and not me Maybe ill rig one myself next time but at the moment I think I would prefer a proper tool that is more reliable. What do you guys suggest as the best tool for making thin laces? The aussie strander or the lace maker? The strander seems more appealing at the moment since its more versatile. But then again i'm worried that it will be difficult to use. Is this how you guys cut laces with the aussie strander? The way it is in the vid it looks a little difficult to use

Actually by right the vinegar itself will dissolve the grease on the steel wool won't it? I remember hearing about using vinegar to clean grease before. Though I guess cleaning out the oil first will make things faster

Haha I see Weather is on the warm side here, hence never had that kind of experience before

Yeah they raised the price a couple of weeks ago if im not wrong. Good butts at a great price, albeit not very clean. Wonder if the price rise corresponds to better butts?

You mean pure neatsfoot oil is not liquid under room temperatures? So fiebing's 100% pure neatsfoot oil is a scam?

Sorry I meant 3mm in width. Somehow I can't seem to edit the first post?

Any of you have experience with cutting thin and narrow laces? I'm trying to cut some laces of around 2mm width from 2-3 oz (tooling) leather and am experiencing some difficulty. I'm trying to cut my laces using a strap cutter as seen from this vid Basically the laces don't end up being even in width. Im not sure where the problem lies. Do i need more practice with the strap cutter? Or is the strap cutter not suitable for cutting thin and narrow laces? Will a lacemaker or a strander help me make more even laces?

Hmm i think i remember seeing something like that before. I think it might be inevitable for the knotted side? Anyway heres a photo of my stitching, the one on the top is the back (knotted) side and the one on the bottom is the front side. Although to be frank, from your photos the stitching on both sides looks good enough anyway. The difference is pretty subtle and unnoticeable.

Ive been saddle stitching the knotting way too, and was always under the impression that it is the knot that makes saddle stitch the strongest stitch. From what ive been reading most UK and Japanese leathercrafters use the knotting method, while most Americans don't. According to my japanese book and some of the british tutorials online, your original method is fine. As to which way is "correct", I can't say for sure. There probably isn't one? What might have happened is that you are making too deep a stitching groove, causing the stitches to look more straight. The knotting method will still make the 2 sides look a little different, but if you are after the slanted stitches go easy on the groover.

won't a domed rivet setter from tandy work? http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/search/searchresults/8084-299.aspx

Alternatively, get the diamond chisel and use it to mark the stitch holes by tapping it with a mallet. This makes it easier to angle your awl, though it takes a bit more time. Japan and the UK sells better quality diamond chisel. They're usually referred to as pricking irons.

I add a little bit of super glue, then screw it together for a permanent attachment.

Simply amazing work Chuck! Has a real authentic feel to it!

Hi. Ive never bought any garment leather before but springfield leather has treated me well. Very nice and patient people who will gladly accommodate you and answer your queries. Im new to leatherwork myself but if you should have any questions feel free to drop me a pm and ill see what I can do (or any of the other Singaporeans leatherworkers, i'm sure they will be glad to help!)

Just to check the clear/neat lac available at tandy/springfield is different from the regular lacquer available at most hardware stores right? I was wondering if those regular lacquers can be used on leather.

Ok ill let you know again when it arrives

Yeap I bought the "top grade tooling side" for 2-3oz and "double shoulder #2" for 5-6oz". I bought 12 sq ft of both. About a third of the 2-3oz was spotty, but the rest was generally clean. The shoulders were pretty even throughout, pretty clean but somewhat "veiny". The "veiny" texture was usually not obvious at all though. The shoulders were a bit dry and hard to cut. My guess is the Hermann Oak is probably better(?) in terms of tannage, but the imported top grade tooling side is cleaner. The grade only refers to the cleanliness of the leather after all, so the pricing probably makes sense. I ordered the overstocked utility. $100 for 1 side W&C. Ill be glad to send you some pics when its here, but my place is a little messy (my mum looks after people's kids) so taking visitors will be a bit inconvenient. If you really want to see it I can probably bring it downstairs for you to take a look though.

Hi reddevil Sorry to hear about the bad purchase. I share your frustration of doing leatherwork in Singapore. I just happened to be talking to my friend's father who paints as a hobby the other day. He was musing with me how everyone here is so focused on pursuing professions that the arts and the spiritual satisfaction that can be gained from practicing them are so often neglected. Anyway ive ordered some leather from springfield before and they are generally true to their descriptions. Some holes, spots and blemishes here and there but largely usable for the top grade sides. Perhaps what you can try, if you haven't, is to ask (politely of course) whoever that is attending to you to send you hides that are generally clean, explaining to them that you absolutely have little to no use for imperfect leather. I would also avoid buying the lower grade hides. Its already risky enough to order through mail, ordering the economy sides will likely compound the chance of getting bad hides! Besides, since the shipping cost is so high, its probably more worth it to order something that has use for every ounce! Ive just placed an order for some W&C leather. Will let you know how they fare when they arrive.

woah sorry if I offended anyone I had always thought of that phrase as any exclamation as offensive as "holy smokes"

Thanks for the info chuck! I guess ill stick to the old method. Seems safer. Started brewing a batch yesterday. Dipped a piece of scrap in it today and it turned pitch black! I think it will be good to go in a week or two.

God damn this method might just be a winner. No smell no need to wait for weeks... Wonder if all iron tablets will work?

I'm no old timer, but I think it is still possible to re-oil the leather after applying resolene. It just takes much longer for the oil to penetrate. Ive experimented by dabbing some oil on a piece finished with resolene. The oil did disappear after some time, so I assume it did manage to find its way through the acrylic coating. According to rickk of cascity, oil does penetrate resolene (http://www.cascity.com/forumhall/index.php/topic,36282.msg464887.html#msg464887)

Just checking stainless steel wool probably doesn't work right?Anyone tried it before?