Art

Hi Ray, On the previously owned market a Singer 31-15 would be a winner. For me however a Highlead GC24618 would be my choice. Post bed and driven roller feet top and bottom, 15 to 138 thread. The post is just too darned handy to pass that up, however, you already have a patcher which can fill in for the post, but can't do the really nice stitching of the 4618. If you are just looking for a flatbed that does a nice stitch (like for boot top decoration) the Highlead 5550 is a great machine and not too expensive. Art

Hi Larry, Congrats on the new machine, keep Steve's number handy. If you are making single ply holsters, which many IWBs are, you can use 277 top and 207 bottom with a 25 (200nm) needle if that is the look you want. For something smaller use 207 top and bottom and maybe a 24 needle (180nm). Organ or Schmetz needles work fine in that machine. Stitch groovers are a personal thing. I like Ron Edmonds' for a free hand groover, and for an edge groover the Douglas Versa Tool is great, however the simple Craftool edge groover works very well too, get the more expensive one with the set screw in the end of the shaft. They are rather inexpensive and you can buy two or three and just leave them set to different sizes for decorative work too. For edgers, you want a round bottom edger. Ron Edmonds, Jeremiah Watt, Bob Beard, Barry King, and some others make them and you MUST call them for the proper size because none of the numbering systems vaguely resemble each other or anything else for that matter. Another way is to call Luke or Vandy at Sheridan Leather Outfitters or Bob Douglas and have them select a fine used edger to do what you need. Their tools will come reconditioned and be sharp. Now, If you can't afford one of the above, get one from Hidecrafter Leather in the SMALLEST size, preferably a number 0. With a very small edger like the 0, you can make a few passes at different angles to approximate a rounded edge. It will all come out in the burnishing. Art

Hi Steve, With a needle feed, the needle actually feeds (in unison with the feed dogs) when the needle is in the down position. This keeps the top layer from feeding at a rate slower than bottom layer, which would cause "gathering" if the material was light enough, or shifting during the first few stitches. Needle feed also provides a more positive feed with heavier material. With slicker material, you almost have to have it. It is worth the extra. Art

$1,400 to $1,500. If you go for no needle feed, $200 less. You can drive over to Highland and try one out and take one home to save on the shipping. http://www.cobrastitch.com Art

Hi Daniel, You can try Henderson in Mobile, AL, but call Steve for someone on the "Left" coast. Art

Use guys run at 50Hz which slows the motor down we run at 60Hz over here, 5/6 of 1725 is around 1437 or "around" 1425 giving for a little less efficiency. Art

We have a few sewing machines available complete with table and motor: *Pfaff 145 walking foot w reverse for upholstery...$695 obo This is the first machine of the 45 series, and would work good for up to 3/8 leather. Not necessarily the greatest for upholstery as feet may not be readily available. These things tend to be set up to run like a bunny figure $200 and some elbow grease to slow it down. Pfaff parts, especially this vintage are made of unobtanium and are priced accordingly. I would offer $250 for that machine if it passed my inspection. *Brother 797 walking foot w reverse for upholstery...$700 This is not a needle feed machine although ok for upholstery as you can get welt feet and zipper feet for it. Here again, you might have to slow it down. I consider $700 high for this machine. *Consew 226R walking foot w reverse for upholstery(2 available)...$695. If you are not sewing over 3/8, this machine will do it, great needle feed upholstery machine and takes the whole line of 111 feet. This is a good machine, made in China, their price is a little high, so offer less, there are plenty of these around. All machines above will handle heavy sewing like leathers and are perfect for upholstery. They'll run too fast for serious leather sewing, but if you slow them down they sew 2 pieces of 9oz quite nicely. *Willcox & Gibbs 5 thread overlock really clean...$625 *Kansai Special cover stitch...$550 *Pfaff bar tack...$550 *Taiko single needle...$300 *Consew 210 single needlew reverse..$250 *Chandler single needle...$295 These guys have nothing to do with leatherwork. For serious leatherwork you want to be sewing 160-200 spm max. For a clutch motor, you surely don't want to be over 1725rpm which is the slowest I've seen. Feet and dogs for veg tanned leather are usually smooth. Art

Hi Steve, The Typical TW3-441 is not identical to the Highlead GA2688-1. Both the Highlead and the Seiko are very robust machines, their prices usually reflect this. The Highlead GA2688-1 Highlead_GA2688_1.bmp The Typical is made by Zhiqiang and is a 441 clone. Art Highlead_GA2688_1.bmp Highlead_GA2688_1.bmp

The extra plate that comes with the Cobra Class 3 is a slotted needle plate, used with out the feed dog. It is used for straps, belts and harness. A holster plate has a raised portion around the needle slot and is used (usually in conjunction with the right toe presser foot) to sew close to bulges like those where the gun resides on CC holsters. It is also great for putting gussets in bags. Art

They're open season around here, as long as you don't bait 'em. Art

I think the $5.25 minimum wage was set in the 1960's. Why on earth hasn't it been adjusted in the last 48 years Now there's a statement I can't let fly by. The minimum wage in the '60 was $.75 that means 75 cents, then it went to .90 then to a dollar an hour. If you are going to spout "facts" they should at least be credible. It amazes me how someone can just say anything the want, regardless of any vague resemblance to the truth and nobody complains. Hummmmmm, sounds like the very administration everyone "hopes" will "change" all those inequities. Art

Hi OZ, With the bobbin winder in the low position, it is a Singer 27, the 127 had the winder higher up. Not a good backup machine for anything but another Singer 27. Yours has been stored in a barn for about 30 years. With that much rust on top, you can guess the bottom and inside might be a little rough. These things came original with beautiful gold decals that Singer was famous for. For restorations, you can still get the decals. Art

Hi Shorts, That's the straightest lines I've seen from someone just starting. Art

Janice, None of it goes on your Ferdco. You have an old flatbed Singer hanging around? Art

Hi Tony, How about a ???K13 machine, and as you well know the ??? is rather important. Art

Hi Ray, If you run a commercial shop, get a Foredom, just a better machine. GRS also makes an air powered handpiece that is very good also. Art P.S. Did you get the Roller edge guide? Sent it a week and a half ago.

Hi Ray, This is way overkill because of the knifemaking thing, but a Burr King, and a Bader 2x72, both killer belt grinders and a lot of accessories, then there is the old Craftsman 6x48, none are terribly variable speed (you have to change pulleys). I been wanting to replace the motors with three phase and put a VFD on them which would be better for leatherwork. Then I have one of those oscillating jobs that I stack everything on, add to that a couple of Baldor buffers and a drill press that I can chuck a sanding drum into. I haven't had the opportunity to use the surface grinder on a piece of leather yet, magnetic chuck might be kinda useless. One of those knifemaker's buffers from Grizzly might be good (kind of like that Weaver thing on steroids), but I don't have one........where is that catalog? The mill and lathes are worthless for leather, but you can make parts for weird or old sewing machines and are just handy to have. But I digress...... That old Craftsman 6x48 seems to go and go, the only optional thing on it is a foot pedal for on/off, and it has one of them disk sanders on the side (seldom used), good sander/grinder and cheap. The Bader has an attachment with a 3/8" wheel for tight places on holsters, but it spins it fast, I have to use Militec on it to keep from toasting the bearings. So the answer is: Used 6x48 (Powermatic is someone doesn't know what he has) and a Dremel or Foredom. Art

Hi Steve, It would be marginal for CC stuff, but you are on the edge of yes and no and I come down on the side of NO. Figure a couple of pieces of 9oz would max it out, and it would never be happy doing that all day. I've bent and broken plenty of needles on that size machine, just a little too small for holster work. Art

Hi Slim, You already know what the 225 is and if both are in good shape, then I need to go shopping with you. The 223 will do a couple pieces of 9oz (less is better) and 138/138 or 207/138 max, use a 135x16 needle #22 or #22 1/2 (you can go smaller). Art

It is all a matter of familiarity. In Pennsylvania, it seems most harnessmakers use the Union. Out West, they like the Campbell/Randall, then others like the 3/16, and then there are those who prefer the Pearson/No.9 type machines. Personally, I can look at a Union and it goes out, and the Campbell runs forever (I use linen). The No.9 just runs and runs....and runs, straightest stitcher I've had, and nobody I know would give-up a Pearson. Art

Hi Bob, Here is a Cyclone, don't know if JJ's are quite this good. Cyclone.bmp Art Cyclone.bmp

Hi Johanna, Finally, Al Gould won the Al Stohlman Award. Art

It isn't a bicycle but a horse, a Lusitano (+1/8 QH) called Merlin. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O4glo6LBmyI The Rejoneador is Pablo Hermosa de Mendoza, music by Evanesence. Art

Hi Jon, Since the wire rope is fairly large diameter and the eye isn't on yet, you can take a piece of leather X long by 3.14 times the diameter of the wire rope plus 1/4 to 3/8 inch and stitch it lengthwise flesh side out 1/8 or so from the edge to form the tube, then wet the leather if necessary and pull it through itself to turn it grain side out, dry it, oil it and put it on then make the eye. That is how I have done it, but there is a limit to how small you can go. I've done covers for 1" nylon and it worked pretty well, depending on the leather and how large the diameter you can sometimes get away without soaking the leather before turning. Art

Hi Ian, Everyone it seems, one time or other in their lives made machines on contract, or semi-finished machines on contract with different names on them, ala Chandler, Ferdinand, and ones we will never know about, and Pfaff's name was painted or badged, not in the casting. For what Pfaff parts have cost over the years (they were made of unobtanium you know), I don't think a cloner would use them, even a bobbin cover plate wouldn't have been cheap, and the one thing even the Chinese don't have the stones to do is put a registered mark on something that isn't theirs (unless they do in fact own the company as in Adler). Art