Art

Yes, a known problem with those machines. The manufacturer has corrected that some time ago by using a little different design. I haven't seen the Artisans lately so I can't say if they have that modification (it is actually a different part), but I would suspect so. Art

This sounds stupid, is the balance wheel turning toward you, like you would grab the top of the wheel and pull toward you??? If not, the reverse switch on the motor might have been moved. I never tried running one backwards, it doesn't work on some machines. Art

The person you want is Henry Veenhoven of Toronto, Canada. He has forgotten more about that machine then the rest of us know. veenhoven@sympatico.ca 416-231-1870 Art

http://www.thethreadexchange.com/miva/merchant.mv?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=TTE&Category_Code=polyester-thread-size-069 You want Bonded also. Art

I don't know the techsew so well, I've only seen them sewing on youtube. When sewing leather, you need to sew slow, sometimes a stitch or so a second with total control. You also need parts that don't mark the leather, in other words smooth. You really need to talk to Bob and Steve on the phone to get a good feel for what you need. Both of their numbers are here on LW. They are easy to talk to and will steer you in the right direction. Art

You probably won't be real happy with that one. This is a high speed (4000-5000 spm) production machine for heavy fabric, 3/8" or less. This is not a leather machine. I think it uses Singer 1955 needles (could also use maybe DPx5 or 135x7), leather points might be hard to find in those systems. Art

The head knife is patterned on the oval, whereas the round knife is more a circle. Art

Hi James, The "SCR" is a Silicone Controller Rectifier that gives variable control of a DC motor. Sailrite sells that combo for over $500. Drag around is more like it with the 111, it's going to be pushing 90lbs complete in portable configuration and probably $1300 when you put it all together. Now that is new, you can get an old Singer 111-155 and build yourself a base and hook a motor to it for a lot less. When you go multiple layers, you need the walking foot at least, and the needle feed is ok too. Of course, you can glue it all together and then sew it, but you want the walking foot if you're going to climb anything. Art

Hi JimBob, I have seen portable versions of the Singer 111, but they were always customs not from Singer. That would be ideal, but right on the edge of portable. The Sailrite clones made in Taiwan are ok, Reliable and Consew make those I think. The Feiyue is made in China, and if you can get a tech to go through one and set everything correctly, they are ok too, out of the box not so much. Sailrite is from Taiwan also but they go through them and replace some parts (for instance to lengthen the needle bar stroke) and of course they are famous for their add on parts like Monster Wheel etc and the very expensive SCR Motors. The paint is also better. Art

Hi Peter, You should call Steve and just talk with him for 15 or 20 minutes. Tell him you don't know squat and what your concerns are. After you get through, you will be able to read many of the prior posts in Leather Sewing Machines and at least have a fair understanding of what is being said. Steve is a fair and honest guy who has been in the business a boatload of years. Bob Kovar is another good source, and little Bob is a pretty good mechanic in his own right. Ed or Connie at Campbell won't steer you wrong either, especially on older iron. But Steve is the first place to go to get a little education, and Steve can talk way faster than he can type. Art

You are correct Bob, the 11 is the bigger machine. As you say, the 17 is a medium weight machine at best, I think (not real sure) the 17-41 had a reverse on it, I don't think any 11 had a reverse. I think reversed because if it has a bigger number, it should be bigger, the 7 and 97 disprove that too. Either of these machines (11 or 17) would make a nice restoration project if you can get them cheap enough. Leighton's used to strip and repaint and re-decal them and they did look grand (and they got a hefty penny for them too). They occasionally turn up at auctions and because of the number of machines there (e.g. Weaver auction) they go fairly cheap, just watch out for missing parts. I'm currently playing with 221s and 222s, if something comes your way, let me know. Art

Hi Pete, You can set or modify it for more, but 1/2" or less is how I've seen most of them. A 25 needle is about max so around 277/207 on the thread. Leighton's might have parts, and usually can machine them. It is a cylinder bed drop feed machine, originally designed for shoes, bags, saddles, suitcases, and the like. Not quite as good technically as the cylinder bed, walking foot, needle feed, and drop feed machines (yes, all of that in one machine) of today, but in their time they were the Cadillac of industrial machines. In full dress finish, they were real black beauties. Art Art

Hi Conrad, I'm really coming up blank on the Remington JA58, is there a chance it could be a Standard Streamliner, circa 1955? Stay away from the Pfaff, the parts will eat your arm off. The 66 is a nice little machine, as with all home machines, the motors are crap. Like I said, I'm not sure what the Remmy is. If you could luck into a good Singer 31-15 in the $200-$300 range, that is a very good and appropriate machine for wallets and other lightweight work, much much more so than any of the machines above. Art

Hi Al, Assuming you want to use the same thread and needle, and assuming you had the thread tensioned to put the lock in the middle of the skirting leather, you will probably have to back off the top tension a bit or the bobbin thread will most probably show on top of the thinner chaps. The larger thread and needle will probably look ok on the yolk attachment to the chaps, but for other sewing I think a smaller needle and thread would look better. I prefer the No.9 here in the States, it is much easier to get shuttle parts than for the #6. The 6 is an older and somewhat better design (the old ones always are) and the stands are absolutely gorgeous. Whenever a manufacturer attempts to make something better and cheaper, they usually succeed at one or the other, not always true, but usually. Art

Hi Al, Sounds like a loaded question to me. What is with sewing dollar bills to harness tugs on one machine? Most of the machines out there (of the large variety) will sew the complete range, it will just look like crap. Size 346 thread on chap leather is going to look a little big, or 138 or 69 on saddle skirts is going to look a bit puny. that being said, it can be done and assuming the lock is well placed for the chap leather, it will be good for the skirting. Sewing several layers of skirting with a #20 needle might push the envelope a bit though. The class 4 is however an excellent machine, made in a real sewing machine factory, not a toy factory. They put adjustment knobs on the machines for the purpose of adjusting them. The Pearson #6 and the ASE No.9 are probably the best machines ever made for stitching harness, unless they got themselves into a horrible mishap or were in some other way terribly mistreated, why ever replace them. The Singer 7 is a remarkable old machine, in stock form more suited to canvas than leather, still, I would keep it around just to hold something down if nothing else, someone will always come around looking for you to sew heavy textile and it will be nice to have it there ready to go. Art

Hi Ray, Are you talking about what we call jacking? Art

Pretty much, if you need more protection, again Pecard's or Montana Pitchblend paste. Art

Not quite getting where you are going, most latigo has a lot of oil in it. The neatsfoot is fine and maybe Pecard's or Montana Pitchblend, let it dry overnight and buff. Art

Oh yeah! They are made by different manufacturers. Steve can tell you more, so can I, but I am not very available till after Christmas, maybe New Years. Art

Check with Steve at Cobra too, they are closer to you and have excellent machines and the best customer service. 1-866-962-9880 Art

Hi Suze, I guess they didn't see the two Bob Beard tools that went for around $35 each, although they weren't the border stamp pattern which would have went for way more. The way this is going, the seller must be on the phone with Ron daily to get more. Art

Similar to a plough gauge knife in looks, but the edge on the plough gauge has a teardrop taper on one side and is flat on the other, nothing really sharp on the bottom, just the front and belly. The 12" is for amputations, you never know when someone will get their hand in the splitter. Actually, I have seen a picture of a worker at a tannery with one at least that big in his hand, I think circa 1900s. Art

This Design of knife is called a "French Pattern Knife", Dixon and Don Carlos still make them. It IS a leathercraft knife. http://www.josephdixon.co.uk/products/Chisels_.html?pmode=1&page=3 I don't recognize the Makers mark. Art

There are literally 100s of posts on this very subject on this forum. I recommend to all newbies to get a new machine on the first trip, as these are equipped for leather sewing. Or the next best thing is to buy a used LEATHER sewing machine, one that was setup right in the first place. The second time you may go to the used market where you will know what you are doing and not end up with something that requires extensive mods to make it usable for your application, or you will have the knowledge to make those mods yourself. Art

No, it will not, it is a garment machine, give it to the wife for quilting. Art