reddevil76

That's some great stuff! Wished I have laser etching services here...

I'm sorry but I don't quite understand this. You can't dye or paint living skin, so you use a tattoo machine. But since leather accepts dye and paints, why would you want to use a tattoo machine when a brush could do the job in half the time?

Yeah, I understand what you mean. Its based on trust then, but with this happening, I sure am not going to do this again in the future. I have been jobless for the past six months, and it couldn't happen at a worst time. I kept looking at the leather and thinking if I hadn't order these, i would have the cash in my pocket now which is definitely handy for times like this. But right now, I have to focus on making them work, so I can move on instead. With the suggestions I received here, I am now brimming with ideas!

Hi Suze, it's a unspoken "trust" thing that makes it awkward to bring up the topic of money. Even now, whenever I see him, I don't bring up the topic of this leather anymore. He has taken 3 pieces of it, and it has become "a favour to me" to take that few pieces! Anyway, I am a bit more careful now and now focusing on moving on and trying to come up with ideas to use it. BigGun - As affording and storing a machine is somewhat out of the question in the near future, I don't think I will consider that. My current worktable is in my bedroom, and it is only 30" X 20" big. But I will not rule it out entirely in the distant future. Bkingery - I'm not too sure about the tensile strength of these. But I do know these were made by Pittards UK to supply the military. So it has to be tough. But they are very expensive, and I would be reluctant to cut them into lace. Morever, I think the camo effect might be lost if used as lace? But the archery goods is a good tip, and I will include that in my "to research" list.

Thanks!

Yeah, you are probably right. Ok, I was actually referring to finish as those which will give a lacquer-like surface to the leather, which will definitely inhibit the aging look. I haven't tried beeswax except on edges, but i don't think it will give the same resistance to dirt as compared to the finishes I was referring to. Ah well, we can't have the best of everything.

Don't think that's gonna happen

Yes, other than lining, I've thought of using it as inserts. That's why I posted a question in another section asking about sheaths and holsters. As I have no access to guns or dummy ones, someone said I could use the patterns in Tandy's book. So I will be looking at that as well. But I didn't know hunters uses log books! Thanks for the tip. Randy - I've thought about women's purses and bags. LV and such has produced camo series in the past. However, I gave up the idea as I have no idea how to use a sewing machine. And typically women's bag require a finer kind of finishing, so hand sewing with waxed thread might not work. Even if I used triple loop lacing in lieu of hand stitching, I noticed every hand bag has a cloth interior to provide separate compartments in the bag, and that will require machine stitching as well. So currently, I am set for using them as inserts for hunter gear. But with each hide at 4-5 sq ft, I've got alot to work through! So anymore ideas with a larger usage?

Ok, I've posted these for sale in this forum, but there doesn't seem to be much interest. So I've decided to do something about them. The story behind these is, I've got a friend who does leather work full time, but does not own a credit card. So he gets me to place orders for him whenever it needs to be done through the internet, using my card. Recently, he mentioned he's looking for camo print leather, and when I found these, he said he'll take 10 of each. So off I go, placing the order, when the whole lot came, he said what he said was a casual remark, it's only a "Maybe" he hasn't confirmed his intentions yet! Well, not only I don't make a profit from doing this, I have to bear the loss when this kind of thing happens. Anyway, enough of the rant. These are goat skin, and very thin. Only about 1mm thick. I am told the UK army uses the desert pattern for their gloves. Since I am a hand-sewer, I am used to work only on projects which uses 3-4 or 4-5 oz leather with a medium firm temper. I've thought of lining small projects with these, but what I am worried is when it comes to burnishing the edges, this particular layer will not burnish to the same effect as the other layers of veg tan. So other than usage as a lining, does anyone has any suggestions on the type of projects to use up about 40 hides of these?

Actually the effect from beeswax or mink oil is quite different from say, Super Sheene or Satin Sheene. And beeswax and mink oil doesn't really equate to a finish. Finish is actually more towards products like neat-lac, or the super sheene. The Sheene actually does prevent or slow down the "aging" process quite abit.

Yeah, I did think of that. But I think i will be making probably only 1-2 pieces of each design to keep it exclusive. So I gotta find a better way around this.

I have experienced this before, once on a Toshiba lap top. Once on a Fujitsu. On the Toshiba, it was the hard drive giving out. One the Fujitsu, it was the cooling fan.

I am using the Tandy kit you mentioned and have no problems currently. (is it the one which the anvil is flat, with four concave holes in it?http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/search/searchresults/8105-00.aspx?feature=Product_2&kw=setter+snap ) May I ask, beside a good surface, did you insert a piece of solid metal directly beneath the snap, between layers of leather? (assuming you couldn't always get the anvil in) I always keep a 1"X1" piece of steel handy, which I use beneath rivets or snaps when I am setting them, if the provided anvil does not fit (small coin pouches). And I tend to use the flat rivet more than dome head (line 24) Also to take note, if the rivet side's head is dome, you would use the concave side of the anvil. If you are using the flat head rivet to set the snap, you should use the flat side of the anvil. Starting out, I have once mistakenly used the concave anvil to set a flat head rivet and it wouldn't set correctly. I am thinking if that could be your situation.

I'm not sure where's the best section to post this for a brain storm, so I guess this is the best place. Right, we all love veg tan because you can tool it, stamp it, dye it, mold it. And because of its properties, it is also susceptible to picking up dirt on the work table. I always make it a point to wipe down my work area prior to a project. But inevitably, through the whole process of making a wallet, some sneaky dirt would get onto the leather. So now, after cutting the individual pieces, I will apply a thin coat of resist/finish, BEFORE all other work. But then, there will be customers who wants products natural without finish. I suppose I can wipe down not only my work area, but each and every tool. The problem now comes if you have to display the items. For those who have participated at fairs or meets, how do you handle the display of your products? In a public setting, I think we have to accept that, in terms of ratio, there'll probably be a hundred "feelers" to a genuine buyer. How do you guys keep your veg tan products from eventually being decorated by fingerprints? There's a high end boutique here that recently started distributing the uber-expensive leather line from Red Moon Japan. One plain veg tan biker wallet goes for up to $600-$700. I popped by the boutique recently and noticed that all the stuff were locked in glass display cabinets. Looks like they are worried about their products getting grimy as well. Anyone who has successfully navigated a meet without problems of this nature, please do share your experience.

I have some spots on hand which I have never tried setting. But when I come around to it, that graph paper tip is one thing I will remember. Its ingenious!

Pity my latest order with Springfield is already on the way.. I'd most likely chuck in an order for the book Reaves suggested in my next order. Like Holly has pointed out correctly, with a gun, things should be taken seriously. So I think I should start with tried and tested patterns first to build up experience before trying to be creative. Thank you everyone for the pointers! I am actually trying to widen my repetoire so that eventually when I start selling via e-commerce, i can reach out to a wider audience. And with e-commerce, the market is global.

Looks good!

Yes, dummy guns as well. I know of these series of toy pellet guns made to exact size and weight of real ones, those are banned as well. Even cigarette lighters in the shape of guns, small ones, cannot make it through customs. I think you guys get the picture. We are the only country in the world which bans chewing gum.

Willing to consider offers for trade with veg tan leather

love the airbrush work!

Absolutely beautiful! Like Somawas mentioned, the depth is amazing!

Ok, if I am not wrong, you are asking about how to get the leather to shape like your gun? You could do a search on forming in this forum and you find many tips on how to wet the leather and form it. While you are at it, recently while shopping on Springfield Leather's website, I saw this interesting product Kydex, which might interest you.

I am thinking of adding holsters and sheaths to my repertoire. Funnily enough, where I live, guns are outlawed and hunting knifes with blades more than 3 inch long will get you in trouble with the law. So, without an actual gun in hand, I was thinking of buying Tandy's kits, and basing my pattern on that, and then apply creativity to make different decorative designs. Can experts here advise if this is viable? It seems their kits are pretty generic as well.

Dude, I salute you! Just yesterday and today, you were still posting questions on how to burnish and how to punch holes in belts. And you are already taking orders! I have been practising on and off for 6 months and have yet to summon the courage to declare my skills commercially viable. You rock!

Beautiful!