Josh Ashman

well... nobody wants to have any part in staining those grips but if it were me I'd finish and seal however you usually do and move on. I've never seen ivory grips or knife handles pick up any staining from a holster or sheath. I'd just make sure it dried completely, buff it off good then seal it. Good luck, Josh

Thanks Malabar! it's horizontal carry basically my take on a jackass rig with some heavy influence by a similar set up Lobo makes. Thanks for looking, Josh

That's some really nice work! great job!! Best regards, Josh

looks nice TJ, good job!

Thanks guys! Red Cent, it is a single layer of horse butt, probably around the 7 oz range for the holster and mag pouch. I think SLC claims they average between 5 and 7 oz for the horse they sell and I try to make sure to get both the holster and mag pouch out of as thick and sturdy a piece as possible. the center back piece of the harness is doubled and I'll cut it and the keeps from the lighter parts of the hides. I try to keep the straps on the thicker side as well. Best regards, JOsh

I just finished up this horsehide shoulder holster for a 5" 1911. I was pretty happy with how it turned out. I used copper rivets to beef up the D attachment since this will most likely get a fair amount of use. I keep meaning to make one of these for my Officers Model but so far I'm still at the bottom of the waiting list. The guy getting this one will use it enough to give me some good feedback but I'd still like to draw my own conclusions. The other guys I've built these for all say they love them but they don't use them all that often. Anyway, horse butt from SLC, #12 copper rivets, hand stitched and finished with 3 light coats of NF oil and 2 days in the sun, topped off with 50/50 M&G and water. Thanks for looking, Josh

Critiquing holster designs is a little like offering unasked opinions on somebody else's horse, dog or spouse. I like the holster Red Cent. I've given some thought to making a cross draw for my 4-5/8 Blackhawk. More for general all around carry than actual concealed carry, i.e. around the place, down to the shop and maybe a quick run to town for gas not so much for a night on the town. Best regards, Josh

Thanks guys! I really like that '66 too, it seemed like a fine addition to the picture

Nice, clean work. Good job! Josh

I use the Fiebings British Tan quite a bit and have had pretty good results. I cut it between 30% and 50% with plain rubbing alcohol and apply it with sheepskin (I have lots of sheepskin leftovers from lining saddles, if you don't have any on hand try getting some from a local saddle maker or use a cloth or sponge). I've also cut it with neatsfoot oil which also works well but will get pretty splotchy on you which can be fixed with more coats but it darkens up. This is cut with alcohol and this one was cut with NF oil Good luck, Josh

Sounds like a great plan!

10-4, thanks! I'll have to give it a try on my next one. Best regards, Josh

so... is the binder sewn to the seat leather and not to the cantle back? The way you do them looks super clean and I'd like to give it a try. Thanks again, Josh

Very nice! How do you stitch your bindings so the stitch is hidden? it makes for a really clean look. Did you end up using drum dyed leather for those or did you dye them? Best regards, Josh

The whole rig looks outstanding, great job! I'm curious to hear what you did to get that color too, it really turned out nice. Best regards, Josh

Thanks again folks! I used 8/9 HO for the holster, belt and even the cartridge loops (someday I really need to buy some lighter leather for them). Generally I use 10/11 but it seems like a little bit lighter weight leather works well for the "aged" look. The thong was just some left over chap leather that was long enough. To "finish" it I put a few coats of NF oil on it, suntanned it for a day, dunked it in a rusty bucket of water and rubbed used horseshoes that had been soaking in the bucket over the edges and just generally all over it (they were covered in a black slimy film that turned the leather black wherever it touched), another few hours in the sun, another coat of NF then rubbed Aussie Wax over it inside and out, more sun and topped of with a coat of Leather Balm w/ Atom Wax. I tried to burnish the whole thing with a piece of rough canvas anytime the moister seemed about right. I stopped short of dragging around through the dirt but the thought did dross my mind. Tom, I sure like that rifle too, it seemed like a good fit for the picture. Best regards, Josh

Thank you all so much!

Hey Shooter, I'd do like Jason says and leave the bottom open. When your holster is stitched up mold the top portion like normal then pull the gun up about an inch and do whatever molding or forming you like around the end of the barrel. I think it would be possible to get good results without modifying the blue gun you have or getting another one. Good luck, Josh

Let us know what you end up using and how it turns out. Best regards, Josh

Thank you!

My Dad's been after me for a while to make an "aged" cartridge belt and holster with a laced main seam and some older looking floral carving. This is what I came up with, it's on it's way to him for his birthday. I'm happy with how it turned out, what do you all think? Thanks for looking, Josh

Thanks again! Evandaily, you are correct. The little black one is a paddle holster. Best regards, Josh

They look great! I really like those double stitched edges but it makes my fingers hurt thinking about it. Someday I may break down and get a sewing machine Best regards, Josh

Very nice Frank! I really like the lines of your work. Something about the shapes you make and the borders you use makes for very balanced and period correct looking gun leather. The coloring, fit and finish are all top shelf as well. Thanks for sharing! Josh

Thanks guys, I appreciate the comments! Texback, yes sir, there is about 1/2" or so of lawnmower sized fuel line to serve as a washer on the tension screws. Have a great day, Josh