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Andrew Chee

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Everything posted by Andrew Chee

  1. That's reasonable. Please let me know if you have any left over. I might be interested. Thanks. Andrew
  2. Do you have any oblong (bag) or round strap end punches? If you do, please PM me. I'd be interested in them. Andrew
  3. I got a bunch of brass and iron clinch nails from Zack White Leather (www.zackwhite.com). They have a fair selection. Andrew
  4. So hook size simply refers to bobbin size and not some other function? That's good to know. Thanks. Andrew
  5. Hi, I see some machines advertised where some sub models have standard hooks and some have large hooks. What practical difference does that make on the machine? Thanks. Andrew
  6. Hello all. I am looking to get my first machine and there is an opportunity to get a used Pfaff 1445. I was originally looking for something like a Consew 206RB but came across this. I'm looking to sew not super heavy stuff (belts, wallets, bags) with a max of maybe 3-4 layers of 4-5oz veg tan leather. I'm pretty sure that this machine can handle it. The guy that's selling it is a technician who has refurbished it and is putting a 2 month warranty on it. I can get it with a new table for $600. He wanted $700 with a new clutch motor but took $100 for no motor. I figure I'd put a gear reduction servo on it and the price would still be under $800. Is this a good deal? I can't find too much info on the 1445 specifically but Pfaffs have good reputations. Any comments would be appreciated. Thanks. Andrew
  7. I like your work a lot. Did you machine stitch or hand stitch the bag? What about the wallet? Andrew
  8. I molded, glued, and used clinch nails on the sole. nailed from the bottom of the sole upwards. When you use clinch nails, the nails are in a continuous taper. When you nail against something hard (like a cobbler's last or an anvil) the tip of the nail curls back on itself and back into the upper sole. That way, even if the nail head wears out, the taper of the nail will keep the sole attached. I didn't sew the soles because I don't like that look for sandals. In my mind, molded sandals don't look good sewn. Making them wasn't too hard but I had to find the right nails, figure out the correct way to fit the sandals so they were comfortable, and figure out how to cut the sole leather. Those were a learning experience but I'm glad I made them. Andrew
  9. Thanks, my first pair of sandals. I actually ended up using a scroll saw to cut out the soles cause I got cleaner cuts with it. I then sanded it to smooth out the poor cutting job etc... Andrew
  10. Hello all, this is my first (completed) attempt at making sandals. Let me know what you think. Andrew
  11. Hello all. Long time reader, first time poster here. I have a question concerning a machine I recently purchased on eBay. It's an American S.M.&T. sole cutter /1-in-1 machine. I wanted to use it to cut sole bends for making sandals. The machine came in fairly good condition, I've posted pictures below. The blade looks like it's in good condition, there's not pitting or rust and the crank turns fairly smoothly. My question is, when I cut leather with it, I see that the bottom side (blade side) of the leather is cut pretty smoothly. The top side (gear teeth side) leaves a bit of a ragged edge where the teeth gripped the leather. Is this supposed to happen or is the leather supposed to be cut smootly by the blade? You can see a representation below. I glued a piece of heavy sole leather to a brown piece of 9oz. dark brown dyed veg tan. I cut the piece with the dark brown leather facing up. The sole leather side was cut fairly smoothly but the gripper teeth left a bit of a mark on the dark brown side. If this is not the outcome that I should expect from this type of cutter, is there a way to fix it? Thanks. Andrew
  12. Just came across this. Is it still available?
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