Andrew Chee

Thanks for the replies. I guess this is not necessary unless I get into a situation where I'm having a hard time getting enough top tension then? I will keep that in mind if the situation arrises. Thanks for the help. Andrew

Hello all, in following this forum I've sometime come across folks that mention something along the lines of using a 207 top thread but a 138 bottom thread. In all the sewing that I've done so far, I've used the same size thread top and bottom. What is the reason for using a different sized top and bottom thread? Is there some practical, functional, or aesthetic reason why this is desirable? I've seen it mentioned a few times and I was wondering why one would choose to do this instead of using the same size thread top and bottom. Thanks. Andrew

I might try that. What is your process for using this? Andrew

Hello all. I've been trying my hands on dip dyeing larger pieces of leather. Previously I've been using a preval spray bottle. My coverage technique has not been great and the penetration of course is only on the top so I thought I'd try dip dyeing. I purchased some Fiebings spirit based dye in Cordovan. I tried dipping that straight and found it way too dark. It was almost like black. I cut the dye with denatured alcohol to 10 parts alcohol, 1 part dye and it's getting to the point of being somewhat light enough. I did some small test scraps where I submerge a piece of regular tooling leather (about 5oz) for 5 seconds, take it out, and wipe off the excess. Then I leave it to dry overnight. The dye penetration is fine but the next day I find the leather very stiff. I'm thinking that the alcohol in the dye is probably drying out the leather quite a bit. What can I do about this? I tried spraying with mink oil after dye. I tried putting conditioners back on after the leather dye dries. Both of these have helped a little bit but the leather is still much dryer then before. I want to use this leather for a bag. The largest panel I have to dye is about 15" x 15". I'm not looking for super soft leather but I want it to be at least as soft as the original condition of the leather before dyeing. Anyways, any help in this matter would be greatly appreciated. Thanks. Andrew

Depending on the thickness of leather you're working on, you actually may not want too much speed. As for a positioner, everytime I finish a stitch I think to myself "gee, it would be nice if I had a positioner motor". That way I don't have to either watch the take-up lever or hand wheel the needle up. Not that big a deal but definitely nice to have. BTW, saw your website. Not really my aesthetic but your work is awesome. Andrew

I was in a similar situation as you. I bought a used Toro 3000 from Cobra Steve. It worked great but I wanted something for lighter weight work (something that would sew a 69 thread) and I asked Steve what machine would be good for light work if one already had a heavy weight machine. He recommended the Cobra class 17 and that's what I got. I think I've worked the kinks out of it and I'm pretty happy with it. The class 17 is top and bottom feed (no needle feed) and one thing that I realize now though was that I should've gotten a compound foot machine (which was the more expensive model class 18 that I didn't get) because on some slippery leathers the smooth feet can slip a bit and cause inconsistent stitch lengths. So keep that in mind when you're looking. A positioner motor was an option but I didn't get. Looking back that would've been really nice to have. Keeps you from having to see when your needle is up or down. Never heard of a leather machine with an auto thread cutter though but I doubt it would save you too much effort unless you're doing high volume production. Anyways, good luck. Andrew

Thanks Art. Tried it and worked great. My piece was looking a little dull after I was finished but the leather balm made everything shinier. I have to say, leather balm is some kinda black manic. Makes things nice and shiny. Andrew

Here's the two shells I ordered from Horween. Took about three months to get to me. I purchased two shells. One in natural and the other in Cognac. I ordered grade 4's. As you can see, the quality is nice but they are pretty small. Just enough leather to make one wallet. The largest piece of my pattern is about 7"x7".

For all the folks here that have used Shell Cordovan for you products, do you guys put anything on the finished product as a finish or conditioner or do you tend to leave it as is? I'm making a wallet and I'm wondering if it is necessary or beneficial to put anything on it. Thanks. Andrew

I have no idea the brand or name. I bought it from oldcowpoke.com. He didn't know the brand either. Apparently he had had it for a while. I just called around places till I found someone that had one. Doesn't seem like a very common tool. The Japanese one looks very very similar. I emailed them to see when they might have supply again but got no reply. Sorry I don't have more info. Andrew

Can you post a picture of your finished knife? I'd be interested in seeing it. Andrew

Thanks for the info. I ended up getting the used one in the pic. Not as much adjustability as the $1000 model but at a fraction of the cost. I used it this weekend to make this wallet. I used it to turn the edges on the inside flap. It turned out real well. I tried to buy the Japanese one in the post above but they were out of stock. It's very similar to the one I bought. Andrew

Also get a swing away edge guide. It will make life much easier on you. Andrew

Sorry. Sold.

Who's the guy that makes this blade? Andrew

Wow. You spent some big bucks with them! I'm waiting on an order for two #4 shells. I know they grade by useable size. Can you tell a big difference in useable area between a #1, #2, and #3? I bought #4s cause I'm prototyping some wallets and Eric said that I should get enough yield from a #4. How long did it take you to get your order? It's been going on two months since I started talking to Eric and getting some shells. Figure since we're the small guys it's just gonna take longer for the tannery to get around to us. Andrew

Nice. Which grade of shell is this and can you take some more close up shots? They have so many grades for their shells I'd like to get a good ideas as to what to expect. Thanks. Andrew

Try this place: Otto Frei I bought a deployment clasp from them a while back when I was making a strap for my watch. As for the stitching on the strap, I used two strand waxed linen thread and hand sewed this one. Otto frei has some nice buckles so you should check them out. Andrew

Hi folks, has anyone tried this? Is it basically just bees wax? Does it work well? I currently use saddle soap and the bees wax for my edges burnishing on a felt wheel on my drill press. I'm pretty happy with the results but wouldn't mind having one product for burnishing instead of the current two. Any experience with this product would be appreciated. Thanks. Andrew

Does anyone have a band knife splitter in the San Francisco Bay Area that I can use? I have a piece of shell cordovan that needs to be split down to about 2oz. and my manual splitters just won't cut it going that thin. If you have one that I can run this through, please let me know. I live in Alameda, near Oakland. Thanks. Andrew

Hi folks, I was surfing Youtube and I came across this particular machine that I've never seen before. Looks to be some type of manual needle and awl machine. Does anyone know anything about this? Please see the links below: Andrew

Hm... Just a thought, assuming that you don't need to cut something all the way to the corner of your cutting pad, you could cut the corners of the pads off and then find some pieces of steel that you can use as a stopper for the top steel plate. Then when the press comes down, the steel stoppers can stop the plate before it pushes the die into the cutting board. You would have to figure out the correct height for the stopper but once figured out, you could just leave them there. Anyways, just a thought. Andrew

Interesting. I have a Toro 3000 in addition to my Brother 797 clone. The swing down guide is cool. How much do they run for? In order to install it, you had to drill and tap two holes? Was that it? I'd be interested in a swing down for the 797 clone but I'm not sure which one of the Kwok Hing guides I could use and how I would install it... Andrew

Interesting! This is exactly what I'm looking for. I'm gonna see if they deliver to the US. Thanks! Andrew