Char
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Hi guys, I've been having some issues with my Fiebing's Edge Kote and Eco-Flo dye leaking if the leather gets damp. What products or techniques do you use to prevent that? Normally the amount of leaking from the Edge Kote isn't terrible, but I worry about it for bag straps. Again, it's only an issue if it gets wet, but still, I'd love to find a solution! I have tried Tan-Kote, Bag-Kote, and the Eco-Flo Satin Shene without much success. I've been doing several coats and letting it have plenty of time to set. The leaking is significantly worse if I treat the leather with saddle soap before or after, which is a pity because I love its effect. I really want a fail safe way to finish edges at the least, and if possible dye my own leather without having to worry about ruining people's clothing! Thanks!
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Thanks all of you! I watched one of his videos recently and was really impressed with his skill and teaching ability.. I'll definitely take a look at the rest of his videos. I appreciate the fast responses; I'm anxious to start doing it right!
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Hey guys, I want to get more into handstitching, especially on bag handles.. Right now my handstitching doesn't look great. I've heard there are some pricking or stitching irons that you can use to punch the holes as well (as opposed to marking the leather then using an awl). I have a set which I've been using like that, but the holes don't look as clean as I'd like.. Does anyone have a recommendation for some pricking irons that would work for punching clean holes? Affordable is a plus! I'd love to know what you expert stitchers are using.. Thanks!
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Help With Rolled Handles Wrinkling
Char replied to Char's topic in Purses, Wallets, Belts and Miscellaneous Pocket Items
Okay, thanks! It is definitely a bit squishy.. I'll try out a leather core instead. -
Hey guys, I'm looking to pick up some tips on making rolled handles. I've just watched an awesome video on how to hand sew them, but I'm hoping to do it on my machine since my hand stitching skills aren't very good and I don't have a clamp/stitching horse yet. The major issue I'm having is that my leather is wrinkling quite a lot when I bend it. I've been using 4oz veg tan with a vinyl tubing core. I'm using a zipper foot so I can get my stitching as close to the tubing as possible, but it still seems to be a bit loose and I think that may be contributing to the wrinkles. I have tried conditioning it, which helps a little, but I'm still not 100% happy. I was wondering if a welting/cording foot would deal with that by allowing me to sew even closer to the tubing. Has anyone tried a welting foot, and if so, could you get the stitches really close to the cording? Does it seem like that would help me? Or am I better off just biting the bullet and hand stitching? Also- I've been glueing the leather together, but then when I go to burnish the cut edge I seem to get a lot of glue coming onto my edge, making it sticky and hard to slick down. Is there any way to prevent this? I'm using an eco-friendly water-based glue.. Any tips are appreciated! Thanks!
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Hey guys, I'm looking to pick up some tips on making rolled handles. I've just watched an awesome video on how to hand sew them, but I'm hoping to do it on my machine since my hand stitching skills aren't very good and I don't have a clamp yet. The major issue I'm having is that my leather is wrinkling quite a lot when I bend it. I've been using 4oz veg tan with a vinyl tubing core. I'm using a zipper foot so I can get my stitching as close to the tubing as possible, but it still seems to be a bit loose and I think that may be contributing to the wrinkles. I have tried conditioning it, which helps a little, but I'm still not 100% happy. I was wondering if a welting/cording foot would deal with that by allowing me to sew even closer to the tubing. Has anyone tried a welting foot, and if so, could you get the stitches really close to the cording? Does it seem like that would help me? Or am I better off just biting the bullet and hand stitching? Also- I've been glueing the leather together, but then when I go to burnish the cut edge I seem to get a lot of glue coming onto my edge, making it sticky and hard to slick down. Is there any way to prevent this? I'm using an eco-friendly water-based glue.. Any tips are appreciated! Thanks!
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Yeah, I don't see a way to move the needle on my machine.. I can reposition the binder so the needle stitches further from the edge, but it seems that I have to sew very far in for it to consistently catch the back side. I am cutting the strips by hand, so it's possible I've made them a bit narrow or uneven.. I will try some wider samples! Thanks for the input!
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Hi everyone, (sorry if you're seeing this for a second time!) I'm having some trouble with my right-angle edge binder, which I'm using with my Juki DNU-1541. I've been trying to sew 2oz binding leather onto 4 or 5 oz leather, and it periodically fails to catch the binding leather on the back side (it's wrapping more around the front than the back). I was unable to put in the feed dog that came with the binder set- I can't get the original feed dog unscrewed.. I had assumed it wouldn't make a big difference because the feed dogs look very similar, but could this explain my problem? Or perhaps the mouth of the binder isn't wide enough? I am using the binder needle plate and a knurled binder foot set. I'd love some tips on how to fix this! Thanks!
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Thank you, will do!
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Hi everyone! I'm having some trouble with my right-angle edge binder, which I'm using with my Juki DNU-1541. I've been trying to sew 2oz binding leather onto 4 or 5 oz leather, and it periodically fails to catch the binding leather on the back side (it's wrapping more around the front than the back). I was unable to put in the feed dog that came with the binder set- I can't get the original feed dog unscrewed.. I had assumed it wouldn't make a big difference because the feed dogs look very similar, but could this explain my problem? Or perhaps the mouth of the binder isn't wide enough? I'd love some tips on how to fix this! Thanks!
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You should definitely get advice from other people on this before doing anything.. But I would try rubbing it with acetone nail polish remover. That is fantastic at removing surface coats on leather, which I'm guessing may be the problem here.. It should strip it down to the point where you can re-dye it.. it should get rid of the sheen and allow products to sink in. Then you'd want to seal it with a varnish of some sort. Good luck!
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Hi Cheryl, Thanks! The photos definitely help.. It had never occurred that I should try trimming the excess after sewing.. Also lamb leather would probably be much more manageable. Thanks for the help! (I didn't even realize there was a "How Do I Do That" section- I'm definitely going to learn some things there)
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You might already be working on it, since your post is 2 weeks old.. but here's (a really rough) example of what the shape should be for the bottom of that tote, as well as an example of another simple option. (It's pretty apparent I have no idea how to use my drawing software..lol) That bag is made with 3 pieces, it's a really good bag to start with, and will look very impressive. Try to make a mock-up out of paper first.. I've found that no matter how much planning I do, I always miscalculate. If you're still looking for a step-by-step, reply and I will send you a really basic one for a bag like that. Good luck!
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Few More Wallets
Char replied to LeatherLegion's topic in Purses, Wallets, Belts and Miscellaneous Pocket Items
i love these.. They are absolutely perfect. Your perfectionism definitely shows, in a good way! -
Gorgeous work! Very high-end look.. This is the sort of thing I dream of being able to make.. lol someday. I'm very jealous of your beautiful calf leather too.. just lovely. I second that hammering the seams will help the zipper pieces bulge less.. I was very skeptical about the results of that before trying it.. I'm often using thickish leather, and have to hand-skive with some craftool cheapo thing, so I don't ever get great results. With enough hammering, my seams haven't looked thick or bulgey, so I only do minimal skiving. The difference is amazing.