Char
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Everything posted by Char
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Hi guys, I've been having some issues with my Fiebing's Edge Kote and Eco-Flo dye leaking if the leather gets damp. What products or techniques do you use to prevent that? Normally the amount of leaking from the Edge Kote isn't terrible, but I worry about it for bag straps. Again, it's only an issue if it gets wet, but still, I'd love to find a solution! I have tried Tan-Kote, Bag-Kote, and the Eco-Flo Satin Shene without much success. I've been doing several coats and letting it have plenty of time to set. The leaking is significantly worse if I treat the leather with saddle soap before or after, which is a pity because I love its effect. I really want a fail safe way to finish edges at the least, and if possible dye my own leather without having to worry about ruining people's clothing! Thanks!
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Thanks all of you! I watched one of his videos recently and was really impressed with his skill and teaching ability.. I'll definitely take a look at the rest of his videos. I appreciate the fast responses; I'm anxious to start doing it right!
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Hey guys, I want to get more into handstitching, especially on bag handles.. Right now my handstitching doesn't look great. I've heard there are some pricking or stitching irons that you can use to punch the holes as well (as opposed to marking the leather then using an awl). I have a set which I've been using like that, but the holes don't look as clean as I'd like.. Does anyone have a recommendation for some pricking irons that would work for punching clean holes? Affordable is a plus! I'd love to know what you expert stitchers are using.. Thanks!
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Help With Rolled Handles Wrinkling
Char replied to Char's topic in Purses, Wallets, Belts and Miscellaneous Pocket Items
Okay, thanks! It is definitely a bit squishy.. I'll try out a leather core instead. -
Hey guys, I'm looking to pick up some tips on making rolled handles. I've just watched an awesome video on how to hand sew them, but I'm hoping to do it on my machine since my hand stitching skills aren't very good and I don't have a clamp/stitching horse yet. The major issue I'm having is that my leather is wrinkling quite a lot when I bend it. I've been using 4oz veg tan with a vinyl tubing core. I'm using a zipper foot so I can get my stitching as close to the tubing as possible, but it still seems to be a bit loose and I think that may be contributing to the wrinkles. I have tried conditioning it, which helps a little, but I'm still not 100% happy. I was wondering if a welting/cording foot would deal with that by allowing me to sew even closer to the tubing. Has anyone tried a welting foot, and if so, could you get the stitches really close to the cording? Does it seem like that would help me? Or am I better off just biting the bullet and hand stitching? Also- I've been glueing the leather together, but then when I go to burnish the cut edge I seem to get a lot of glue coming onto my edge, making it sticky and hard to slick down. Is there any way to prevent this? I'm using an eco-friendly water-based glue.. Any tips are appreciated! Thanks!
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Hey guys, I'm looking to pick up some tips on making rolled handles. I've just watched an awesome video on how to hand sew them, but I'm hoping to do it on my machine since my hand stitching skills aren't very good and I don't have a clamp yet. The major issue I'm having is that my leather is wrinkling quite a lot when I bend it. I've been using 4oz veg tan with a vinyl tubing core. I'm using a zipper foot so I can get my stitching as close to the tubing as possible, but it still seems to be a bit loose and I think that may be contributing to the wrinkles. I have tried conditioning it, which helps a little, but I'm still not 100% happy. I was wondering if a welting/cording foot would deal with that by allowing me to sew even closer to the tubing. Has anyone tried a welting foot, and if so, could you get the stitches really close to the cording? Does it seem like that would help me? Or am I better off just biting the bullet and hand stitching? Also- I've been glueing the leather together, but then when I go to burnish the cut edge I seem to get a lot of glue coming onto my edge, making it sticky and hard to slick down. Is there any way to prevent this? I'm using an eco-friendly water-based glue.. Any tips are appreciated! Thanks!
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Yeah, I don't see a way to move the needle on my machine.. I can reposition the binder so the needle stitches further from the edge, but it seems that I have to sew very far in for it to consistently catch the back side. I am cutting the strips by hand, so it's possible I've made them a bit narrow or uneven.. I will try some wider samples! Thanks for the input!
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Hi everyone, (sorry if you're seeing this for a second time!) I'm having some trouble with my right-angle edge binder, which I'm using with my Juki DNU-1541. I've been trying to sew 2oz binding leather onto 4 or 5 oz leather, and it periodically fails to catch the binding leather on the back side (it's wrapping more around the front than the back). I was unable to put in the feed dog that came with the binder set- I can't get the original feed dog unscrewed.. I had assumed it wouldn't make a big difference because the feed dogs look very similar, but could this explain my problem? Or perhaps the mouth of the binder isn't wide enough? I am using the binder needle plate and a knurled binder foot set. I'd love some tips on how to fix this! Thanks!
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Thank you, will do!
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Hi everyone! I'm having some trouble with my right-angle edge binder, which I'm using with my Juki DNU-1541. I've been trying to sew 2oz binding leather onto 4 or 5 oz leather, and it periodically fails to catch the binding leather on the back side (it's wrapping more around the front than the back). I was unable to put in the feed dog that came with the binder set- I can't get the original feed dog unscrewed.. I had assumed it wouldn't make a big difference because the feed dogs look very similar, but could this explain my problem? Or perhaps the mouth of the binder isn't wide enough? I'd love some tips on how to fix this! Thanks!
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You should definitely get advice from other people on this before doing anything.. But I would try rubbing it with acetone nail polish remover. That is fantastic at removing surface coats on leather, which I'm guessing may be the problem here.. It should strip it down to the point where you can re-dye it.. it should get rid of the sheen and allow products to sink in. Then you'd want to seal it with a varnish of some sort. Good luck!
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Hi Cheryl, Thanks! The photos definitely help.. It had never occurred that I should try trimming the excess after sewing.. Also lamb leather would probably be much more manageable. Thanks for the help! (I didn't even realize there was a "How Do I Do That" section- I'm definitely going to learn some things there)
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You might already be working on it, since your post is 2 weeks old.. but here's (a really rough) example of what the shape should be for the bottom of that tote, as well as an example of another simple option. (It's pretty apparent I have no idea how to use my drawing software..lol) That bag is made with 3 pieces, it's a really good bag to start with, and will look very impressive. Try to make a mock-up out of paper first.. I've found that no matter how much planning I do, I always miscalculate. If you're still looking for a step-by-step, reply and I will send you a really basic one for a bag like that. Good luck!
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Few More Wallets
Char replied to LeatherLegion's topic in Purses, Wallets, Belts and Miscellaneous Pocket Items
i love these.. They are absolutely perfect. Your perfectionism definitely shows, in a good way! -
Gorgeous work! Very high-end look.. This is the sort of thing I dream of being able to make.. lol someday. I'm very jealous of your beautiful calf leather too.. just lovely. I second that hammering the seams will help the zipper pieces bulge less.. I was very skeptical about the results of that before trying it.. I'm often using thickish leather, and have to hand-skive with some craftool cheapo thing, so I don't ever get great results. With enough hammering, my seams haven't looked thick or bulgey, so I only do minimal skiving. The difference is amazing.
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Hi guys, I've been teaching myself to make handbags, and I'm slowly getting the hang of it. It's all trial-and-error, and learning off the internet. One thing I'd like to do is bind the edges of my bags with leather. I bought a binder attachment for my machine, but I had no luck with that. It wouldn't feed consistently, and I had a lot of trouble getting the binding to stay right along the edge of the bag. I also tried glueing the binding along the edge before sewing, which was slightly more successful, but not the professional look I was hoping for. Which is the best method? I'd appreciate any tips, so I can stop ruining leather trying.. Do you use any particular type or weight of leather? Most of what I was trying was probably 3oz.. I was wondering if it's a bit thick and too soft? I've looked at other people's bags and they seem to manage it with similar leather. And maybe it works best on thin edges? I was trying it on 2 layers of 3oz. I am able to skive pieces down if necessary, and was wondering if thinner but a bit firmer would be best.. my most successful attempt was a bit firmer. hmm... :/ Here's a bag I made, and I really want to make something similar with binding along the flap, and possibly on the side seams. Is that too much of a curve, or is it possible? (it's a pretty tiny bag- like 7" wide) Thank you!
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Contrasting Colored Edges, How?
Char replied to carguy's topic in Purses, Wallets, Belts and Miscellaneous Pocket Items
Hi! Wow this may be the only thing I CAN answer on here.. Certainly you could do a very careful dyeing job, that's something I haven't tried. The other option is the edge paint- Tandy leather is now carrying "Professional Leather Edge Paint" in a bunch of colors.. I have it for purse making. It's about $22 per 8oz. bottle. It's naturally matte (which that looks like) and you can get a varnish coat that makes it super shiny. I've been pretty happy with it so far- it's super flexible and gives a finished look. You apply it with a metal paddle that they also sell. This is definitely better than a brush. I sand it down with super-fine paper in between coats. It might not be something you'd want to use on every leather, but it definitely beats a messy edge. It can also help disguise where you've put two pieces of leather together. -
Hi Art, I've been using 135X17 leather tip needles and generally sewing 2-3 pieces of 2-3oz leather. I use either polyester or nylon upholstery/heavy duty thread.. Not sure the size, I got it from the local sewing store and assumed it would work ok. (When I get past the sample stitching phase, I will buy some better thread online.) I live in Maine, which turns out to be a difficult place to get an industrial machine fixed! I do like the shop I took it to when I first bought it, it's just a little far. The repair man seemed to feel that the machine was not properly reconditioned and would need more work in the future. Obviously if I'd known I would've just tried to return it without getting it fixed.. I just assumed I was having problems because I'm inexperienced with industrial machines. When I dropped it into the shop, it seemed that all it needed was a new needle bar. When I went to pick it up, I was told that everything needed adjusting, it had taken 10 hours, was still not quite working right. Now that I've put the money into it, I either want it to (miraculously) start working, or I'll just get a new machine.. Definitely ruling out "factory reconditioned" next time! Right now, the issue with it is getting the tension regulated & occasional skipped stitches. It's fine on fabric, but despite hours of fiddling around with the tension & sample sewing, it just doesn't seem right. Plus I'm told it will probably need a new hook in the future.. Which is why i'm debating selling it at a loss and getting something else. Anyway, I've been wanting to get a walking foot with an edge guide.. Can't seem to find anything specifically listed for the 227- Do you happen to know if feet that will fit a 206RB or a 277 (also cylinder front) will work for that? (are all consew walking feet the same??) Thanks! It's actually been a while
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Hi Kevin, I'm in Midcoast Maine.. I like the repair shop I took it to, but it is like 2.5 hrs drive each way. None of my local shops will repair industrial machines! Thanks!
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Hi guys, I'm looking for advice on buying a leather sewing machine.. (and where better to ask!) I'm new to sewing leather & my ultimate goal is to make bags and possibly garments. I bought a factory reconditioned Consew 227 cylinder front machine months ago. From the start it didn't work correctly, and having spent hundreds to get it fixed (and dismantling it & driving it 200 miles to the repair shop), I still doesn't work correctly. It's ok on thick fabrics and some leather, but it always seems to skip a stitch or the tension changes mid-line. Very frustrating, very costly, and difficult to get parts for it. So I'm now wondering if I should just go ahead and buy myself another machine so I can start finishing products.. I'm looking at new this time (obviously with a return policy as well). Right now I'm looking at a Consew 206RB5 with a servo motor, but I've read some conflicting opinions about it. Good machine or not? I've heard the quality has declined since the factory has moved to China. Would it work for what I want to do, or am I likely to have a similar experience with it? Also, are there similar machines made by Juki or Pfaff that might be better? Is a consew 255 worth the extra $? The reason I'm considering the 206RB5 is that it's a really common machine (so hopefully easier to have repaired) and there are a lot of presser foot and binder options that fit it, which I will definitely use for making bags. Obviously I bought the 227 because I liked the versatility of a cylinder bed. But having blown so much money on that, I can't afford another one and will settle on a flat-bed. I'm in two minds about whether I should sell or hang onto the 227- If I sell it, I'll take a huge loss on it.. If, eventually, I can get it working, then (assuming my business takes off), it might be convenient to have a cylinder front machine as well.. Any input is appreciated!! I'm hoping to make a better purchase this time!
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Wow thanks for all the info! I think the thread is probably a little big for the needle size.. It didn't have a number on it, but it's heavy-duty topstitching polyester.. It fits through the eye comfortably, but it does look quite thick. I've just re-raised the feed dog (again..) and made sure it's in tightly.. I think the presser foot was coming down so hard on it that was actually knocking the feed dog back down.. I've reduced that pressure, and raised it's level a little. I've messed around a little with the inside and outside presser feet, and it looks like it's working a little better.. I walked it over some leather (obviously without a needle in), and it seemed to feed better than it had been.. I would still like a little more lift to the outside foot, but it's going to take me a little while to work out how to get that adjusted right.. The manual is very confusing to us non-mechanically minded people! Very very helpful, thanks so much!!
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Thanks! I think I'm going to order a new needle bar online.. they're pretty cheap and come with the set screw.. I don't really want to deal with getting just the screw, then finding out the problem is the bar too! I think you're right about the feed dog being loose.. I have re-raised it and tightened it this morning, so hopefully when I'm able to replace the needle bar, that might have fixed it.. Fingers crossed! I'm trying to avoid having to send it anywhere because it's so heavy.. Took a lot of effort to get it into my house and set up!
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Hi guys, I'm new on here and to leather craft! I just bought myself a reconditioned consew 227 planning to make handbags. I got it set up, and have managed to do some sewing, but I've been having some problems and I'm hoping someone else might be able to point me in the right direction.. First, the needles keep falling out when I'm sewing, and I've broken about 10. I am using the right ones, they are leather tips, and I have it inserted correctly. I think the needle set screw might be too worn, and also possibly the threads in the needle bar.. it's hard to see in there. It takes multiple tries to get the screw to kind of hold in there. Does this sound like the problem? When I am able to get the needle to stay in properly, it sews well. This has been happening right after I change the needle, so most of the ones I've broken are completely unused. I'm thinking about buying a replacement needle bar and set screw online.. Second, I had it working this morning, and tried to sew a bag I was making. It was fine on 2 layers of 2 or 3oz. leather, but when I went over the thicker seam, the stitch length went so small, I thought it would rip the leather. I had it set to the maximum. I'm guessing that's caused by some problem with the feeding.. I raised the feed dogs a few days ago, since the manual recommended it for sewing heavy materials. However, when i looked after trying to sew this morning, they were near their minimum height.. Is it possible that having the feed dogs too low would cause this to happen with the stitches? I think I might not have screwed it in tight enough/the presser foot pressure was extremely high and might have pushed it down. Any other thoughts on why it would do that? I was using a size 18 needle at the time.. was that too small for several layers of leather? I didn't want to change it because of the issue with the needles breaking.. *sigh* Any help is appreciated! I can't find anyone in my area who fixes industrial machines, and it's a little big/heavy to try to move too far..