Steven Kelley

Rods from home depot or Lowes. Epoxy is JB Weld. Virtually any two part epoxy should work as there isn't much stress on the part.

I attach a 1/4" diameter aluminum rod to the top of the slide on all my blue guns, using an epoxy. The creates a nice molded sight channel. I usually sand the front sight off the blue gun and run the rod from the rear sight to the front of the slide.

I cut 1/4" off the end of a Commander length blue gun. Works like a champ! I did the same thing with a 5" Operator blue gun. Cut 1" off the end and reworked the end of the rail and dust cover area with a dremel to make a 4" railed dummy. The good thing about blue guns is that you can rework them pretty easily.

Sorry for the late reply. I haven't checked this thread for a while. The shark is laminated to a thin piece of cowhide (approximately 3-4 oz). Once the shark is laminated to the thin cow, that strip is laminated to a strip of 6/7oz. I use Weldwood contact cement (regular, not the "gel"). Once all 3 layers are together, trim the edges, stitch, etc.

Don't let the motor stop you from buying one. They are fantastic machines. You can buy a replacement motor that has much better slow speed control for $100. I know replacing a motor is the last thing you want to do on a new machine, but in the grand scheme of things, especially if you are selling the stuff you make, it's nothing. Maybe you could get Steve or Bob to swap out the motor ahead of time. In many ways, I prefer sewing on my CB4500 rather than my Adler 205-370, and if I had to sell one, it would be the Adler.

I have a CB4500 that has the digital servo, and it works. It is a little touchy at low speed and sometimes hard to control when you want to go one stitch at a time. When I bought my 205-370, it had a clutch motor, which I immediately decided to replace. Knowing I didn't really like the digital motor that much for the speed sensitivity and I hate having to push all the buttons in a certain order just to change the speed, I decided to try one of these..... http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Nick-O-Sew-NKS-5500-110V-Servo-Motor-BEST-QUALITY-/110886914518?pt=BI_Sewing_Machines&hash=item19d16009d6. It seemed to be a simple servo with dial speed control, and for $100 bucks I thought I'd give it a shot. All I can say is the speed control at super slow speed is FANTASTIC. I could not be more happy with the motor, and for $100, it's a steal. I'm sure some Chinese manufacturer sells these under dozens of different names, and I wish this type motor was an option on the 441 clones, instead of the digital servo. Maybe Bob and Steve even sell this same motor.

Actually, if available, I would buy two each of 5" w/rail and 5" w/o rail.

I'd take one or two as well.

I tried using Ring's mags, but ended up going back to using real mags with a couple of rounds loaded.

Thanks! I appreciate it.

I ended up buying a Sig 4.25" with rail and a 5" without rail. I can swap the slides and frames around for the purpose of making holsters for both lengths and rail combinations. I do wish Ring's would add all the Sig 1911 variations to their offerings. Investing in the actual guns gets very expensive. The Sig 1911 is extremely popular.

I agree completely about rehostering. My personal IWB holster has no reinforcement at all, and it completely collapses when I draw the weapon. I can still reholster rather easily with one hand. In my opinion, comfort is king for a concealed carry holster. Anything that adds bulk or stiffness usually takes away from comfort.

+1 This is what I've done to several of my 1911 blue guns.

Jeremy, Yes, I am Kelley Gun Leather. No, I do not burnish with a hot iron. I have a burnishing tool that fits in a drill press, made by a member here with the handle of "Spinner". It has various sized notches on the top for different thicknesses of leather, and the point has flats of increasingly larger diameters to fit inside slots. When I have the holster assembled and ready to mold, the belt slots are cut with a standard 1-1/2" oblong punch from Weaver's. I don't know the width offhand, but it's very narrow. A gun belt would not fit through the slot as is. When I wet the leather to mold, I do a quick edge burnish using the burnishing tool. This is not really to "burnish" the edges, but rather to form them into a nicely rounded shape. For an OWB holster with belt slots, at this time I also stretch the belt slots using the burnishing tool. I just insert the spinning tool into the slot and move the leather around with a little pressure against all the sides. The leather easily stretches a bit to accomodate a gun belt. This is the quickest and easest way I've found. It takes about 10 seconds to do both slots. As you will notice, there are 100 different ways to do this. We all have different methods to make a holster. No one way is right, and no one way is wrong. This is just the one I use.

I use a 1-1/2" punch from Weaver's. When I wet the holster to mold, the first thing I do is run the edges around my wood burning tool just to shape the edges a little. At this time, I insert the pointed end of the tool into the belt slots and give them a light burnishing. The leather will stretch a bit doing this, and that makes enough room for a belt to fit easily.

I just finished this holster for a local customer. He has a Sig P232 and wanted an OWB, with 7° cant and shark trim. The holster body is cowhide dyed with Angelus Cordovan. The muzzle is airbrushed with black as an accent to the black shark.

I'll take the XD 40 Tactical and Sig P228 if still available. Email sent.

I have the same machine. You should be able to sew 2 - 3 stitches per second easily, especially on a belt. I think I stitch faster than that on holsters (not around corners, but on straight sections). You just need to experiment with the speed settings and find what you are comfortable with. We can't tell you what speed setting to run. Just get some scrap leather and experiment.

Kcinnick, You'll know you are going too fast if you screw something up. The machine will stitch just fine at a high speed, you just won't be able to control the placement of the stitches very well. If you have an edge guide, that will help. Speed isn't everything. I learned that the hard way. Just turn up the speed until you get to a point where you don't feel like you are in control. If you go too fast, and ruin a belt, you'll have to remake it. Those few seconds you save by going as fast as possible will be lost 100 fold when you have to remake that belt.

I've noticed that when I wet the edge before running my beveler, the mossed side does not seem to absorb water quite as quickly as non mossed leather does. However, I have not noticed a difference in molding or the way it absorbs dye.

I would call and talk to Bob and Steve. If you need one now, find out which one has a machine in stock. I purchased from Bob and his customer service is fantastic. My machine came ready to sew with 277 thread. It took about an hour to get it unpacked and mount the head to the stand. It sewed like a dream from the first stitch. I can vouch for Bob's CS, and there are others who do the same for Steve. I don't think you can go wrong with either one. Steve is in California and Bob is in Ohio. That might make a difference on shipping cost. I'm glad I bought the Adler, first because I got a really good deal on it, but mostly because it confirms in my mind how good the clones really are. I don't have to wonder if a machine that costs twice as much is really that much better. It's not. Oh, and if you like the Adler style of machine, Cowboy makes a clone of it too. You can talk to Bob about that. Honestly, having used both, I prefer the 441 overall.

Like I said in my original post. I have both a 205-370 and a Cowboy 4500. I've used both side by side, and do so every day. I actually use the Cowboy more, because I like sewing on it more, so it is setup for my higher volume items. The Adler is nice. It is finished better. The machining and polishing I would say are better in some areas. But as far as functionality goes, I prefer the Cowboy, so I use it more. I'm sure a Cobra Class 4 would be the same, since it's basically the same as a Cowboy. The Adler has some very nice features, but when I weigh them against the Cowboy, I prefer the Cowboy. They are both built like a tank and I can't imagine any part on either one being worn out in my lifetime. The lifetime warranty is worth a lot. You won't get that with the Adler. I'm not going to complain if my machine breaks down after 20 years and needs to be replaced. It paid for itself the first month I had it, so if it lasts 20 years I'm going to be very happy, and will gladly buy another or three if needed. Unless you find an Adler at a very good price, like I did, I would not recommend it over a Cowboy or Cobra.

I called a few weeks ago to order a side, and a guy answered the phone to take my order. He said "by the way, we have these HO backs with mossed flesh in A grade", so I ordered one to try. That's all I've been ordering since. LOVE IT. I think they said they stock 6/7oz and 8/9oz in A grade. Occasionally they might have B grade. Very clean on both sides and the mossed flesh side is fanatastic. I have had an 8/9 oz HO side that was very hard to cut, but the 8/9 oz back cuts quite easily.

Goliger Leather

I had the same issue with the drum dyed sides and had to redye everything. That was the last drum dyed side I bought from them. On a different note, I have been ordering HO backs with mossed flesh. Very nice leather! Easy to cut, extremely smooth on the flesh side, and since there is no belly, there is virtually no waste. They cost a little more per foot, but without the belly scrap, it is a wash.