lottarope

Beer box is a lot more fun then anything else I use. If the beer boxes aren't big enough thats where the fun begins. BUY MORE BEER. Then duct tape the peices together. For cutting this stuff I recommend using the cheap utility knives with the break off blades. They are ususally faster and more accurate than a sizzors IMHO. I use this method a lot when making new patterns in the saddle shop. When I have a pattern tha t I'm going to use often I use bathroom surround. When i cut this stuff i use my round knife.

here is what it looks like

What is this and how do I stop it ? I'm using 13-14 skirting sewing with a Ferdinand pro 2000 using 346 on top 277 on bottom with a 230 794 s serv1 needle.

I've tried down coats, canvas coats, polyester Holofil coats, nylon slickers and none of them are as good as my Filson wool coats. Especially when they get wet. I know we are not using wool here for heat retention but it occurs to me that sheep over several thousand years have done a lot of good R&D work for me. I haven't found a synthetic that retains the level cushion that sheep skin does and wool felt padding doesn't behave the same as woolskin does. I like the ideas of synthetic trees, nylon latigos, fake woolskin, and wonder pads but have yet to see any of these are better than a properly fit and rigged saddle with a heavy Navaho blanket. I guess for me the final test is to take my knuckles and wrap them against the bars the fake fuzzy stuff strikes me as pretty much just cosmetic. I also know from experience that wool skin helps hold blankets in place because my saddle has been starting to slip blankets some and I know the woolskin has needed replaced for a while.

Ben any idea why with the pigskin? Julia I also sometimes line the fenders. I do it on fancy saddles to help with sweat staining coming through the fenders. I currently use light latigo. I think the layer of barge cement probably helps as much with a waterproof barrier as the latigo does. That's just my opinion take it or leave it Buck

Brown jeans lol If neatsfoot and ray holes saddlebutter won't do it you've got a great story about how it was that day. Thats just my opinion no garantees. Please note my personal saddle has these stains (it wasn't a rough out) and it was ungodly hot that day and the Levi's were brand new. I don't know if anything could have prevented it in truth except enough sense to wait til evening and it cooled off to do the job.

Good work keep it up. If it was easy anyone could do it. As far as the wraps on the Nevada twist it'll be probably a 2x knot or better and use kangaroo if you bust a Latino lace when your finishing up the knot you will be more than displeased the kangaroo will also be the right weight and not require a splitter. The knot should be the same length as your wrapping to look right and I wouldn't mouse under it for fear of making a lump under my shin. My notes say the thong used is 51x 3/8. Ild probably plan on making a few neck rag slides before I tried tackling this project. If you do Facebook friend me at Coyote Saddlery I have pictures posted there of a couple of saddles with it done to them:)

I would skip Stohlman's books. I have them and they could just as well be still wrapped in plastic. In my opinion get the Harry Adams book or the series of articles by Pete Gorrel either is FAR superior. The other book I still find useful is the lee rice part of how to make cowboy horse gear though it is harder to follow and not as complete as the other two.

I'm curious what did you decide on?

Sorry Im not much help in the high shine department. We go for more of a deep glow and highlights in the sun finish. Just our preference. Sometimes well use a light coat of bag coat or glycerine saddle soap buffed to give it some shine. As this is a thread on finishes maybe I can get some feed back from some of you: We use U82 top grade saddles oil from weaver and have liked it. anybody have more to say about this product versus other neatsfoot type products. I have been thinking of trying Bee naturals#1 saddle oil as I have been very impressed with their Rudy's conditioner and finish. In our part of the word we don't necessarily need a fungicide so I was considering just the regular one. Comments or info on these products? Also was wondering if some of you had any feedback on the Oakwood products Weaver is carrying . And any experience out their with oil darkening liquid or oil stains. I have a customer who would like their saddle browner. It's a ranch saddle and my reply was oil and and time. He seemed happy with this so I've dropped it. Stains can be splotchy and scare me those of you with experience ild appreciate your help. I was talking to my dad the other day and somebody said something on how with leather finish seems to be a branch of voodoo. I'm waiting for one to be made from ground up bat intestines that will "magically shine, preserve, protect and waterproof all your leather products" lol

I use 3" because that's what my customers want. I sure wouldn't Be scared of 2 1/2 s for myself. I am curious about why on various posts calf roping saddles seem to deem the need for 3" leathers. They don,t seem to put in a lot of miles. In fact it seems they are happiest when they make the shortest trip possible and the successful ones always tied to the horn not their stirrups.

As far as half holes go when your the one in the rocket seat if you think it helps it does. Also suppose one of your stirrup leathers has stretched a 1/4 inch every stride one leather will take more weight first. Try an experiment standing for an hour with one foot shimmed up a 1/4 to a half inch. Another reason people will use half holes is for a lot of us one leg is longer than the other and how you may ask does a sports medicine guy deal with runners with this problem well one way is to shim one shoe. I also sometimes wonder why we are so obsessed with strength in leathers. While I've never measured them the leathers on English saddles can't be more than about 1 1/2 are they? That being questioned I still use 3" leathers from the top of the hide and the heaviest leather I can get. Does give food for thought though. As far as strength I would have to say the horizontal buckles seem to hold up better from what I've seen. I especially noticed this on dude saddles which get used pretty hard and take a lot of weather. I would have to agree with others on here that the majority of busted leathers I've seen we're due to wrecks not honest wear. The other major reason I've seen them wore out is poor design and construction.

I'm using 277 on top 346 on bottom for what it's worth on the skirts, but for the cantle and saddle horn I use hand sewing thread with an awl and parafin wax.

Yikes! $34.95. of course thats a package of ten but I've no use for ten. They also come in four sizes. Any body willing to sell one? Any ideas on which size would be best?

Thenrie, Sorry if my comment seemed rude. in person it would have been said with a smile and a giggle. I sould have noticed your interests also. Hope you'll accept my apology.

Thanks Keith

Ken, I can't locate one in the weaver catalog. Maybe I'm missing it, got a page number? Anybody, I have tried modifying a lacing awl and sewing machine needles with little luck. They like to pull out of the handles or the modified eye/hook wants to bend. I've got a modified sewing machine epoxying in an antler handle right now see how that works. If somebody had a wore out Landis hook needle I sure would appreciate one.

I've used LaPort Trees and built on them. They've got some plusses and some minuses. Plusses- light weight, strong, great horn pattern, pretty affordable Minuses- short bar pattern, not possible to put in an all leather groundseat As for the cable rigging: I had one customer who hated the cable rig cut it off and replaced it with a ring rig; I know several who love love it. I personally do like it, but thats just my opinion. I like a 3/4 single rig for some things. I don't use these trees anymore but they have a place.

When I was sewing the inskirt rigging to my skirts sewing lubricant from the top tension disk dripped onto the skirts and stained them. Twice (winse). The lubricant is Feibings Four Way as recommended by the machine maker it also looks like it may have gotten some hydraulic oil mixed into it as I had just oiled the machine. Any ideas on how to remove or reduce it without screwing up the surrounding area? or Do I just leave it this is a rough out saddle I'm building on spec. If I do leave it what would be a reseanable discount for this mistake?

I agree. Fix it like it was like it was made but, make sure there arernt lumps under the strings. Also make sure you screw or nail the skirts on on the top edge of the bar under the gullet, cantle and leading edge of the fork. this is usual even with string throug saddles. On new saddles I like to screw them into the bars, I feel every time you drill through the tree you weaken it. Especially on the front tip of the bars I've seen a lot of old saddles the have broken there where the string holes are. If screws aren't strong enough to hold what your tieing on get a paksaddle and learn a diamond hitch. Thats my just my opinion take it or leave it as you like. That Dave Jones book has some interesting ideas in, I really liked the section on sewing the cantle binder.

That tree is almost too pretty to cover. Congradulations:)

Anne, Denise and Rod are fantastic and would help familiarize you with the Lane card system and are they great to work with. I think you will find your horse has a "S" shaped back and that most western trees aren't going to fit well. Does this horse have the general shape of majority of horses you intend to ride with the saddle? Usually it is advisable to fit the type of horse rather than an individual, but it's your call. I've got the Stolman books in my shop for references but would recomend Harry Adams book in front of them. I feel it is more straight forward and shows better examples. Especially the pictures of the ground seat. I would also recommend the Pete Gorrel saddle making series from Leathercrafter magazine and Lee Rice's saddle making section from How to Make Cowboy Horse Gear before the Stohlman books. Give making your own a wirl. What I found out years ago was I couldn't hardly do worse then alot of the factory made saddles out there, if nothing else it'll make a great bar stool . Good Luck, Buck Reule Coyote Saddlery Mobridge SD .

Thanks Josh

Anyone know how well the Superior buckles work with a Nevada twist? Do you need to keep replacement plates on hand? They look kind of easy to lose. Thanks in advance, Buck

Plastex- it a bathtub surround material available at Home Depot for about $25 a 4x8 sheet. I like it better than flooring material because it has no paper backing to warp over time. you can also draw on it with a pencil and erase easily. This was one of the coolest things I learned at Sheridan this year. Thank you Mr. Smith. When I'm developing a pattern I use beer box and duct tape. I find Blue Ribbon inspires best but I'm sure others have a brand that works just as well.