Cyberthrasher

Whatever you package them in, make sure the leather has some room to breathe. For my bigger items, I like to wrap them in bubble wrap with both ends open. This allows the leather to get some air, while still protecting it from any postal abuse. You can do the same with other products, I just find it easier to use the bubble wrap since it's available locally in large rolls.

Or you'll be more familiar with your design. The transfer is a guide that should constantly be corrected and adjusted as we work.

Another option instead of the tracing film - tracing paper with a backing on it. I use the cheapest tracing paper I can find at WalMart and just back it with packing tape. I don't tear through with my stylus and it holds up to water. I also find that it stays put a little better. For a stylus, I can't recommend BearMan's enough. We all know him for his maul's, but he's making some KILLER stylus' now as well!!! The problem with the ball-point stylus is that you just can't get the level of detail required for some work. Ed's stylus, on the other hand, comes to a fine point which he's then rounded off like a dulled pencil. They're pretty inexpensive, as well as beautiful like everything he does.

Of all the ones you mentioned, I would at least go middle of the road - which in most cases here would be Osborne. Keep in mind that Springfield is a distributor and not a brand (though they are having a few low cost items manufactured now). Tandy's items are really low quality. Sure you can get their "pro" series tools (which haven't been out long enough for quality judgements to be made), but for that price, you're already meeting the price of a proven tool. Since you're only doing hobby work, I'd also recommend some of the less expensive Osborne knives. Another route to go is to get a hold of Bruce Johnson, a member here who is an expert in tools and resells many reconditioned tools that will serve you well. http://brucejohnsonleather.com/content/index.php/leather_tools_for_sale/

Yes, use what Bob said, or the 4 prong version. There are 2 rules of thumb when it comes to slit vs. hole in lacing. First one, that doesn't get used very often is "round holes are for round lace and straight holes are for flat lace". The other more important one (meaning "go by this one" ), a slit is more likely to tear out under pressure, so don't use it for structural lacing that will be placed under load. Guitar straps and other light wear items (like wallets and belts) will be fine with a slit and look a lot cleaner. You want to use holes on stuff like saddle-bags or seats where all the weight will be supported by the lace. I also use holes for Mexican Round Braid lacing (which is done with flat lace) because of the amount of times you go through the hole. It's easier to lace and fills out the hole nicely. So, to sum it up, use a lacing chisel to match the size of your lace so that you have clean slits to give a nice professional look.

Me Too!! That's why I jot the important details on a notepad that gets hung above the desk as I'm working. Then if I need clarification I can either head to the computer or pull out my phone to look at the spreadsheet or emails. If I did that I'd never take an order. I have a day job which doesn't allow me to take personal phone calls all day. By the time I get home from work, most of the world is asleep since I'm at the far left of the time zone. Besides, I can't go back and look up what details were discussed in a phone call. I'm not knocking the phone order system and at times I wish I were able to offer it, but it doesn't mean I care any less about customer service as I see people imply a lot of times. I've even seen people straight out say that they refuse to do business with anybody who doesn't list a phone number. I feel sorry for those people who are missing out. And, honestly with the way my life is, I can respond much quicker to an email than I can a phone call. Sorry, I just realized I completely misunderstood your post as I'm multitasking...... I noticed that "Oders" thing the other day and completely forgot about it.

well, for my end I'm sure I'd be in the "dozen here and dozen there" group. Memory's failing me on the size I use for my guitar strap buckles - so I'll have to check that. But, I do like 1 1/2", 1 3/4", and probably some smaller ones in the 3/4" to 1" region (again, have to check the size on those). I'd also be interested in a good supplier of solid brass, so a mix and match deal there would be great. If I get time tonight I'll check on all of those sizes.

Aside from what Ferg stated, there will be differences in the "Grade" available from various tanneries. I pretty much exclusively use Hermann Oak and I've tried all grades they offer. 2 sides of HO I've purchased have been "Craftsman Grade", which equates to C grade. One of them had a really nice grain side (top), but the back was exceptionally stringy and fleshy. This one was lighter color as one tends to expect from natural veg-tanned hide. But, the 2nd one I purchased was more "pink", or russett, in color. This one was quite stiff and pretty dried out. Since then I've purchased nothing but B and A grade. The B grade usually has some stringy flesh in the belly region with a few more stretch marks and a few tannery marks in the field of the hide. The A grade is pretty clean and mostly usable all around. My point is that even within the same tannery, and also the same "grade", you can get many varying results. My thoughts on your situation is that you bought cheap and ended up with a C grade hide, or possibly even an imported B grade. For reference of where to purchase, you can buy Wickett & Craig direct from the tannery - I don't because I haven't tried their product yet. You can buy Hermann Oak from several locations. Springfield Leather Company carries both B and C grade (craftsman grade) for a decent price - and they'll cut to size so you only get what you need. Sheridan Leather Outfitters and Goliger Leather are the two places I go for A grade. Both of these are also reasonably priced, but as far as I know you have to buy the whole side. Do you mind if we ask where it was you purchased from? If you're not happy with the leather, it's possible that they'll let you return it for an exchange, but you'll likely be stuck with the return shipping.

That second one is actually my preferred style. But, that said, I really don't use a lot of buckles, so I wouldn't be interested in a huge number to start with. I would be willing to participate in a group buy for the number that I feel I would need though. Perhaps later I'll end up needing more, so having the option there would still be a good thing.

If you want a small lacing profile, 1/8" lace will be it - but that will be a lot of lace. The example you have here is using 1/4", which fills things out nicely and looks good with a large item like a strap. It just depends on the look you want. In either situation, Kangaroo is always going to be the strongest lace to use and among the better looking. If you get a high grade of calf lace, it should be fine. But, since the lace is structural, make sure it's not the cheap crap.

Yes, it goes through the lining. You don't really feel it. The lace isn't that thick if done cleanly. For the strap locks I use a hole punch that matches the diameter of the strap lock cylinder. It varies based on the brand.

If you have gmail, it's pretty easy to setup. The main thing is to think about THOSE questions that you always ask every customer - that's what you need to have on your form. From there, when creating the form, it gives you the options to create a spreadsheet from the data. Technically, I can send the form to people and have them fill it out themselves, but that's a little to hands off for me and it's just easier for me to ask and then fill out the form the way I need it. Something like what LostWolf posted is great and would work pretty well to convert that to a Google Form that populates a spreadsheet on the fields. A lot of people are just fine with paper/white board too. Myself, I don't have a computer in my work area and MOST of my inquiries happen while I'm at my day job anyway. So for me it works out well so I can fill out the form while I'm at work and then pull up the data when I get to the shop.

The lacing is a replacement for the stitching. Both are meant to hold the structure together, but the lacing is just more decorative.

I use email for all inquiries when possible and I have a label setup for messages that come to my business email - step one to keep them all highlighted and in my face. As they come in, I fill out a Google Doc's form that I setup with all the important information which then fills out a spreadsheet and lists the jobs in the order that they're received with due dates. By having it in Google Doc's form, I can pull it up on my phone, computer, laptop, day job, etc..... I also note that important information for each of the current jobs on a small notepad and hang the sheets on my wall above my bench for quick reference. As the orders are completed, I move them from the "Working" spreadsheet to another tab for "completed" orders so that I can reference them later, and I also then archive the associated emails - AFTER I know the order has been received.

Definitely beveled with a "Sheridan" beveler. The Sheridan bevelers have a much steeper pitch on them, creating less of a "halo" around the work which allows you to get into tighter spots with them.

I don't use the water stain, but that problem is common with Pro Oil black as well. Usually I'm able to get rid of it by applying neatsfoot oil after the dye.

So, what do you mean by a "mirror image"? Are you looking for something that points to the center on both sides of a project (if that makes sense). If I'm understanding right, you would start in the center of your piece and go one direction with the front of the work facing you. Then, you'd go back to the center and go the other direction after you splice into your starting string. This will be easier if you leave a nice tail at the beginning to start with.

Man, I don't know that much about sewing machines, but that thing looks like it's been SERIOUSLY rigged together from scraps!! For the price there are a lot of good machines out there that will actually be backed by someone.

I understand your situation Ray, so I don't want to say a person can never do it any other way. I just really wanted to speak in general terms. My best suggestion for you is to just take your time on the tracing and maybe work on finding a pencil setup that will be easier to control. If you're not having as many problems using a knife without it going astray, I'm inclined to think that perhaps the pencil is so thin it's requiring you to grip harder in order to keep a handle on it. Use some tape or those squishy pencil grips or something to build up some bulk and make it easier to handle. I honestly think that using the printer might cause you more headaches down the road, but it would be worth a shot if you have your design laid out on the computer just right.

Double action will serve you better for detail work, but for general color and fade stuff, a single action will be fine for now. It all requires practice though.

Deadblow really shouldn't be used for general tooling. For setting snaps/rivets/etc... - go for it. But when you're tooling, you want to TAP, and not STRIKE the tool. It requires finesse to get good results. I have contemplated finding some of those wood working mauls to try out though. The primary thing you'll want to watch for is good balance and comfort. Hold it in your hand and rock your wrist back and forth (no forearm movement) to see if it's comfortable.

NOPE. It's whatever effect you want. GENERALLY, I like a "#2" on stuff that's 7/8 oz and under and a "#3" on stuff that's 9oz and up (total thickness). Also, I don't usually do any work that's above about 12oz total. I used a Keen Edge and it was terrible. The classic ones by various old makers will be good though. Check out Bruce Johnson's website for some good information on the different types of edgers. You DO want one that will be "half the thickness" because you work top and bottom. Remember, the edger doesn't make the rounded profile (in general), it just knocks off the corner. Some of them do leave things rounder than others though. Right now I'm using an Osborne #125 and I really like it. The only downside is that the tips stick out pretty far, so I've had to place my work on edge of the bench at times to get thinner pieces edged. http://springfieldle...125,#2,5-32-in/ http://brucejohnsonl...-french-edgers/

I use Resolene. Sometimes you might want to use a varnish over JUST the paint before adding Resolene. You'll just have to try it with Resolene only and see how it reacts with your paint.