Cyberthrasher

Normally you wouldn't do anything with a resist afterward. It's just another layer on the product. You should usually get your different sections the color you want them BEFORE resisting because the resist will do funny stuff with the dye. Honestly, this doesn't look bad as it is. Keep in mind though, I've never worked with "block-out". I use Resolene as my primary resist and finish (thinned 50/50 with water and applied in several coats). I don't see any reason you couldn't apply Resolene over the top here. Here's a brief summary of a standard finishing process. tool lightly oil dye resist anitque/stain finish (usually with the same product you used to resist, but it can be different) The only time I remove a "resist" is when I'm using liquid latex. It's basically a masking fluid and will need to be removed after all of the dye is completed and before you apply any kind of finish (including one you might use as a resist for antiquing).

Cool, so there won't be any splainin' to do

Well Ferg, for me, I started using GNU Cash to manage accounting. I found that I would like something to keep track of supply inventory while I'm at it. The folks who support GNU Cash have decided that it would be too difficult to write a module for that program, so I started looking at other options. While researching, I've realized that having a customer database included would be handy, as well as some of the other features such as scheduling and task keeping that are available. I know a lot of companies are using Xtuple's Post Books (and the commercial versions), but I just installed it and it looks like A LOT of overkill for what I want. I'm in the process of demoing "Phreesoft" right now on their site. Programming is the one technology field I never really got into - I can do it ALL, except for that

yeah, I want to say it was $35 for the custom wood. Paul will let you know for sure. I looked at it like this - I'm already paying $275 for a really cool knife. Why not pay a little bit more to make it 100% custom and guaranteed to be 1 of a kind

I'm such a bad influence sometimes. I hold no responsibility when it's time to explain the added cost!!!

Right on man!! I knew you couldn't hold out after seeing the beautiful stock on hand

Well, let me know if you need links to any of those I mentioned. Someone's gotta figure out the best one for small business craftsmen, we might as well pool our thoughts!!

Me neither........That's why I try to get stuff that's Lazy Proof, because I know my customers are likely to be just like me

Did you ever settle on anything here? I've come to the point where I really need to start thinking along these lines. A couple that I'm looking at right now are Xtuple's PostBooks (free edition) and OpenERP. I've been contemplating Dollibar as well, but I'm not sure if it really meets my needs. I started using GNU Cash for accounting, but really need an inventory feature as well.

ah, was that one of his diamondwood scales? here's the pictures of his current lot of burl (just to make things harder on you) https://www.facebook.com/LeatherWranglers?ref=ts&fref=ts

I've used it, but I prefer Resolene 50/50 with water. it's basically the same type of product, but I think it holds up a lot better and definitely works better when using it as a resist for Fiebing's antique.

Do you have to reapply it regularly in order for it to hold up reliably, or do you have something else underneath it? Someday I'll try some out for myself, but until then - people who have used it will have to do

sorry, I shouldn't always reply when I'm exhausted - Aussies is a conditioner from Fiebings formulated for dry weather. I was also looking for good deals on Roo hides yesterday, so something must have combined products in my head - not what I meant to recommend. http://www.fiebing.com/catalogue/conditioners-cleaners/?product=114 Well, I wasn't really recommending this. But, I have heard of people using it with success. So, for reference, here's the actual product. It's the Leather Balm with Atom Wax. http://www.fiebing.com/catalogue/top-finishes/?product=196'>http://www.fiebing.com/catalogue/top-finishes/?product=196 Now, for Resolene It is an acrylic top coat that does not need to be sealed. However, in order to get a clean application, you MUST use a 50/50 mix of it with water. It's just way too thick out of the bottle to do anything right. You'll want to use 2 coats of 50/50 at a bare minimum if things won't be subjected to heavy exposure. I would normally lean to 4 coats of the 50/50 mix though. Water will still penetrate (because nothing is water proof), but it will take a lot of soaking. I also like to add a good wax conditioner on top to offer a protective layer that can also be buffed and shined. http://www.fiebing.com/catalogue/top-finishes/

What did you choose Mike? If he hasn't started yours yet, I know he's got a good pile of the buckeye burl there - might be time to change your mind Whatever you end up with, I'm sure it will still be a work of art!! Yes, it has a pull cut feature on it too. I opted for a Rhino tip on this as well. He has another round knife called the Rhino which has that pointed tip on top. It makes the overall length of the cutting edge a little shorter, but gives a nice point for getting into smaller corners. In terms of sharpness - both Paul and his wife said "the blade is SHARP!!". Considering who it's coming from, I'm reading that as "Super Scary Sharp!!"

THANKS!!! I really like the varying colors of it all and specifically chose the set that had that little blonde piece on front Between this and my new Bear Maul, I've learned that I REALLY have no experience in making choices - especially when it comes to wood!!! I'm just glad that both Paul and Ed are masters at their craft and know how to make such beautiful pieces when they're working with people as indecisive as me

Let me know when you figure that out With the orders picking up over the last couple of months, I've been thinking about adjusting my pricing structure. I guess you could see how long it takes you to do about 10 of them for an average and then figure out how that matches to your preferred hourly income (since I know you don't have a set hourly rate). If it takes you an hour to do 10 (I hope you're faster than that) then $8 a piece puts you where you need to be. Extreme example, but it portrays my thought

NOTHING is water PROOF I get pretty good water resistance off of stuff like Resolene with a good wax conditioner such as Pecards Motorcycle Dressing or Montana Pitch Blend. Both of those are actually marketed as finishes themselves, but they're more of a temporary finish requiring reapplication. Resolene will seal things up pretty well. I'm not sure how any of the lacquer products hold up to water since I've never really tested it. I know some other people have good results with Sno Seal and Aussie's.

How deep is the dome on your setter? I was just looking at some spot setters and they look basically the same as a domed rivet setter. Try it and see I saw some mention before of using small holes instead of slits. All that said, this video convinces me to get the spot setters

It would depend on the use of the item. Take a belt for example - even if you get it perfect, it's going to start fuzzing out if it's worn every day because it's constantly being pulled through the belt loops. It should last a lot longer than a month though. On the other end, I have a bracelet that I've been wearing every day for well over a year and it's not fuzzing up at all because the edges don't ever come into contact with stuff on a regular basis. And it gets ABUSED. I've already replaced the snap on it once because it started rusting away from sweat!!! But, the edges are perfect One thing that would help is to use a clear coat on the edges, Clear-Lac (or any of the other Lac products) or Resolene or something like that. Basically anything that will seal the fibers down before you wax it. Also, your 150 grit may be causing more fuzzies than anything. I usually start with either 200 or 220 with a touch of water and then move straight to 400. You really want to just shape it and remove any of the fuzzies that are already there without pulling up any more. 150 is course enough that it can actually shred the edge of the leather and just make more work. ALL that said though, some portions of the hide are just naturally fuzzier than the others - especially in the belly. I did a quick dog collar for my "puppy" and had the edge relatively smooth. But, I pulled the strap from a piece of belly I had sitting there and it was really fuzzy to begin with. It's looking pretty ratty right now about a month later (it was "fairly" smooth when I did it). The main reason though is that I didn't spend a whole lot of time doing a perfect job. It was seriously just a 2 hour job because he didn't have a fitting collar at the time. If I were to make one for a customer, I would have never even used that piece of leather, let alone sent it out with the edges in the state they were.

We have a hole sub-forum devoted to dying and finishing leather. Take a look around there, do some reading, then let us know if there's anything you need clarification on. There's lots of information there, so that will help you get an idea and then we can help with any specific questions. http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showforum=18 basically, you'll follow these steps. tool oil dye finish If you want to use antique: tool oil dye finish antique finish

Hey, that's the only problem I have with it right now too (except MY tool board, not yours)!!!

This thing is such a work of art, I HAVE to show it off here. I don't even have it in my hands yet. Paul did such a great job on it!!!! I'm kind of speechless over how it came out, so I'll just let the knife do the talking

I always wax my edges last. The oil is fine because it penetrates into the leather and should have had plenty of time to soak in before applying the clear-lac.

Definitely airbrush. I'd follow Billy's mixture, but I'd probably add some brown to the outer edge, so it's more of a 3 tone burst. That's kind of what it looks like to me. I've seen people do it by dry brushing, and I've done it myself in the past, but the time it takes to make it look even is a real pain.